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Old 03-04-2013, 10:00 AM   #74281
Carl Childers
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Location: Northern New Mexico
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rob.G View Post
Stupid question -- where in the heck can I buy a pack of valve cores? I'm tired of stealing them out of tubes. I'd rather just have a little baggie with a half dozen of them to carry with me as a just-in-case. I've searched several sites (e.g. Rocky Mountain ATV) and have come up core-less.

Rob
Anywhere from Walmart to NAPA
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Old 03-04-2013, 10:28 AM   #74282
NWBoon
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Need advice

A local motorcycle dealer has a brand new leftover 2011 DR650 for sale for $5900. Is there any sort of discount since it's 2 model years old but the same machine as this year's model? What would be a fair offer? I realize the dealer has to pay their folks and keep the lights on so I don't want to insult him. At the same time, I'd like to have some money left over to buy neat stuff from Procycle and Kientech.

Thanks in advance.
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Old 03-04-2013, 10:31 AM   #74283
Rob.G
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Carl Childers View Post
Anywhere from Walmart to NAPA
Hahaha locally... what a concept! :)

Quote:
Originally Posted by NWBoon View Post
A local motorcycle dealer has a brand new leftover 2011 DR650 for sale for $5900. Is there any sort of discount since it's 2 model years old but the same machine as this year's model? What would be a fair offer? I realize the dealer has to pay their folks and keep the lights on so I don't want to insult him. At the same time, I'd like to have some money left over to buy neat stuff from Procycle and Kientech.
I don't think there's much markup in these. The key is if there are any rebates from Suzuki to get the price down. I hate to say it but $5500 may be the best you'll... but rather than offer that, just go in and be honest with him. Ask him about rebates... see how bad he wants to move it. Plus, you kinda have a choice between that one (white?) or a new one (gray). Which color do you prefer? :)

Rob
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Old 03-04-2013, 10:43 AM   #74284
doug s.
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Originally Posted by Falcon86 View Post
Thanks very much guys!

Glad to hear those "worst-case" estimates.

Sounds like it may be worth a gamble.


Here's the CL ad:

http://richmond.craigslist.org/mcy/3656947867.html

I'm hoping he'll let it go for closer to $1k.
ya, i'd definitely say it's worth a gamble. not really a gamble, imo, at least not any more than buying anything used. plus the seller may take an even lower offer. but you better hurry; now that you posted the link here, someone may buy it out from under you!

doug s.
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Old 03-04-2013, 10:46 AM   #74285
doug s.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NWBoon View Post
A local motorcycle dealer has a brand new leftover 2011 DR650 for sale for $5900. Is there any sort of discount since it's 2 model years old but the same machine as this year's model? What would be a fair offer? I realize the dealer has to pay their folks and keep the lights on so I don't want to insult him. At the same time, I'd like to have some money left over to buy neat stuff from Procycle and Kientech.

Thanks in advance.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rob.G View Post
I don't think there's much markup in these. The key is if there are any rebates from Suzuki to get the price down. I hate to say it but $5500 may be the best you'll... but rather than offer that, just go in and be honest with him. Ask him about rebates... see how bad he wants to move it. Plus, you kinda have a choice between that one (white?) or a new one (gray). Which color do you prefer? :)

Rob
the above is why i would not even bother making an offer. if you were happy w/stock, ok mebbe. even then, i would be hard pressed to buy a new dr650. i would much rather find a decent used one for $1500-$3k and use the extra money to make it mine.

doug s.
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Old 03-04-2013, 10:51 AM   #74286
Mambo Dave
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Quote:
Originally Posted by doug s. View Post
ya, i'd definitely say it's worth a gamble. not really a gamble, imo, at least not any more than buying anything used. plus the seller may take an even lower offer. but you better hurry; now that you posted the link here, someone may buy it out from under you!

doug s.
I might do two things to it - put it in fifth gear and try to spin the rear wheel against the compression (with the rear raised up off the ground of course), and then take a plug out and make sure it turns over without noise or a hang.

Seems like a clean bike.
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Old 03-04-2013, 11:03 AM   #74287
Adv Grifter
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Originally Posted by Falcon86 View Post
If anyone has chased electrical gremlins on a DR and can chime in, I'd be very appreciative!
Your guy is bit vague but probably cause he does not understand ... or remember the issue.

Could be two separate issues, since the bike ran after some part was replaced. (did the shop replace the Stator?) Could have also been the pick up coil (AKA: ignitor)

The DR should run fine even with a dead battery. It may not crank over ... but once running, should do OK.

If the seller is reasonably close to you ... I would take a NEW battery with you (and some tools) ... install it. If the bike has been sitting a long time (typical of bikes for sale) then the Carb or fuel filters may be gunked up. So may not be an electrical problem at all.

Drain float bowl first. Then add fresh fuel and ditch old fuel in tank if it's been there more than 4 months. If bike runs, but runs poorly, could be a clogged Pilot Jet.

Worst case scenario would be if you have to buy a new Stator. Around $400 and not many used ones come up. I doubt that is the issue. More likely the Carb needs a cleaning, filters cleaned.

Bring a VOM with you (Volt/Ohm meter) and check output at the battery.
At fast idle it should be around 13.5 to 14.2 volts. Could be the Regulator/Rectifier but that would be very unusual. OR .... could be the Pick up coil mentioned above. This is a more common failure and not too expensive.

One red flag for me would be if someone has hacked into the stock wiring harness trying to add accessories. Pull the headlight Cowl and the fuel tank. Check out the main wiring harness. If all stock, then no prob. Also look around battery to see if there are other NON STOCK wires hooked up. If not, good to go. I would not buy the bike without riding it, going through the gears and getting it fully HOT and having a close listen. 90% sure it's all good. These bikes rarely break. Good luck.

Adv Grifter screwed with this post 03-04-2013 at 11:46 AM
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Old 03-04-2013, 11:26 AM   #74288
NordieBoy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Born-to-ride View Post
Does anyone have Ricor intiminators fitted to teir DR shocks?? Thinking of buying some from Procycle but not sure if it will make any differance. Thinking of running it with stainless steel braid house. Any advice??
Intiminators and a braided line are the 2 easiest upgrades to the front end.
You won't regret doing either.
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Old 03-04-2013, 11:50 AM   #74289
TrophyHunter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Falcon86 View Post
Thanks very much guys!

Glad to hear those "worst-case" estimates.

Sounds like it may be worth a gamble.


Here's the CL ad:

http://richmond.craigslist.org/mcy/3656947867.html

I'm hoping he'll let it go for closer to $1k.
Check the VIN

Credit to Kientech Engineering

"
DR650 update on the 650 grenade issue. 1998 and early '99 were equipped with a solid idler gear that created a problem when the engine kicked back during shutdown, breaking out the gear bearing bosses. This also breaks out and destroys the left case half due to its ridged design. The case halves always come in matched pairs and cost in excess of $650.00 not to mention labor charges to change all internal parts into new cases. This should not be taken lightly. '96 and '97 had the torque limiter gear that is designed to slip due to a preloaded slip clutch arrangement. Well they went back to this design in mid '99 after vin # X2100561 so if your Vin # predates this you should consider installing this updated item shown above.

That might need to be figured into the equation.
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Old 03-04-2013, 12:25 PM   #74290
Rob.G
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Adv Grifter View Post
Worst case scenario would be if you have to buy a new Stator. Around $400 and not many used ones come up. I doubt that is the issue. More likely the Carb needs a cleaning, filters cleaned.
The ProCycle 250 watt model is only $250, FYI.

Rob
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Old 03-04-2013, 12:45 PM   #74291
NWBoon
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Quote:
Originally Posted by doug s. View Post
the above is why i would not even bother making an offer. if you were happy w/stock, ok mebbe. even then, i would be hard pressed to buy a new dr650. i would much rather find a decent used one for $1500-$3k and use the extra money to make it mine.

doug s.
Thanks Rob G. and doug s.

I appreciate any and all input. I am trying to sell my F650GS in order to buy a DR650. I bought the F650GS to return to motorycling after a 14 year break but once I rode it on FS roads, I decided I wanted something lighter, more simple, and cheaper to repair/maintain. I recently rode a DR650 and really enjoyed it.
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Old 03-04-2013, 01:54 PM   #74292
dman
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Lower rear chain guide

Hi - my DR is missing the horizontal "block" part of the rear chain guide (vertical plates are OK). Only a complete assembly seems to be available, either OEM plastic parts or Moose or other aluminum aftermarket guides. Cost is about the same .... any recommendations? If you have gone aftermarket and have the stock part and screws that you want to get rid of PM me.

Thanks - dman
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Old 03-04-2013, 02:00 PM   #74293
Rob.G
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NWBoon View Post
I am trying to sell my F650GS in order to buy a DR650. I bought the F650GS to return to motorycling after a 14 year break but once I rode it on FS roads, I decided I wanted something lighter, more simple, and cheaper to repair/maintain. I recently rode a DR650 and really enjoyed it.
The money and frustration you will save over electrical problems and broken swingarms will give that much more time and money to ride and enjoy! :)

Rob
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Old 03-04-2013, 02:33 PM   #74294
Falcon86
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TrophyHunter View Post
Check the VIN

Credit to Kientech Engineering

"
DR650 update on the 650 grenade issue. 1998 and early '99 were equipped with a solid idler gear that created a problem when the engine kicked back during shutdown, breaking out the gear bearing bosses. This also breaks out and destroys the left case half due to its ridged design. The case halves always come in matched pairs and cost in excess of $650.00 not to mention labor charges to change all internal parts into new cases. This should not be taken lightly. '96 and '97 had the torque limiter gear that is designed to slip due to a preloaded slip clutch arrangement. Well they went back to this design in mid '99 after vin # X2100561 so if your Vin # predates this you should consider installing this updated item shown above.

That might need to be figured into the equation.
Very true, I completely forgot about that issue.

Thanks alot!

Maybe I'm better of pony'ing up a bit more cash for a newer DR.
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Old 03-04-2013, 03:11 PM   #74295
Load Clear
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Re: High Altitude

Thanks guys, for the info.

Grifter - I've mountain biked and hiked quite a bit in the area. I love it.

With the knobbies - any of them you would want to ride a 400 mile asphalt round trip on? lot's of off-roading out my front door but I have a 180 mile ride "to town" & such. No way I would want to change tires every weekend. Plus, I'll want to be off-road in those places too


Just curious - why not the K&N filter?
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