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Old 03-06-2013, 06:40 PM   #74371
bullittman281
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Joined: Dec 2007
Location: 4 corners-ish
Oddometer: 92
The auto decompressor will reduce your readings. Actual will be much higher.

If it doesn't burn oil, smoke, run bad and has full power it must be good.

Bullittman
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Old 03-06-2013, 08:03 PM   #74372
TrophyHunter
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Joined: Aug 2009
Location: San Diego
Oddometer: 2,211
Quote:
Originally Posted by BombayG View Post
I am looking for a nice dual sport to take around town (I live near Los Angelese so i need one that can go on the freeway rides, city/town rides and I also want to take it off roading once in a while). That being said after my minimal research I came to the conclusion that the DR 650 post 2003 is a good choice for both freeway riding and off roading.
Welcome aboard. As you can imagine, we're biased to the DR650 but it fits for what you've described. Shu and Adv Grifter, among others, have put 1000's of miles on these bikes with extensive cross country and international travel. Also, Google Jammin' thru the Global South and read up on Jay's adventures along with Shortwayround. Great bike prep and travel reading. Shu posted his recently in the last few pages.

If you do get one and want to do the ride/drive to San Diego, I'll go over your DR with you and swap out all the common "fixes" with you so you can learn the bike. One I'd do for sure and the others are optional but helpful.

Good luck on the hunt.
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Old 03-06-2013, 08:23 PM   #74373
Obard
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Joined: Jan 2013
Location: Kapowsin, Washington
Oddometer: 26
I love this place. You folks are awsome.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Adv Grifter View Post
Ideally, pull the Carb off the bike. Just not that hard to do. That way you can get an up close look at it ... and learn all its workings. It's pretty simple. Working insitu is a bit of a pain ... but can be done by rotating Carb
90 degrees round.

To remove:
Remove seat, tank, side panels.
Loosen one of the two throttle cable adjuster nuts (10mm) and unscrew plastic choke. Lay cables aside.

Remove any vent or drain hoses in your way ... note where they came from.

Loosen two steel bands on air box and manifold rubbers holding Carb in place. Now gently wrestle Carb out of there. A 2nd set of fingers can help to squish air box manifold down.

The Pilot Jet is accessed by removing the Float Bowl. If your Carb still has the stock Phllips screws ... well .. they are VERY TIGHT and hard to remove. (thank EPA and CARB)

If PO has replaced them with allen screws ... then all the easier.
If stock screws are there carefully use an Impact Driver with the correct JIS bit. Hold Carb in vise with wood blocks ... not too tight.

Once the Bowl is off you will see both the Main jet and Pilot Jet near by.
Note jet numbers, blow out (eye protection) orifices where jets live. Carefully clean the tiny holes in the Pilot jet. Check O rings holding float and clean out that orifice. How does the bowl look? Grit? Sand in there? Water? Rust? Some replace ALL O rings at this time.

On top of the Carb, you can access the needle and slide. Make sure it's installed correctly and set on a notch that works with your jetting, altitude and use. Riding and testing works best here. DR's can be run very lean ... even with an open air box and pipe.

Correct on the Fuel Screw. IN is lean, OUT is rich. If jetting is correct, ONE TURN out from fully seated should be about right, give or take a 1/2 turn.

If you're unsure about the Pilot Jet ... just replace it with a new one. Stock size is good ... no matter the Carb/Air Box mods.
You folks on this board are awsome. I can't tell ya how great it is to ask a question and get so much help so quick like. Sincere thanks to everyone for all the insightful help. -Andy
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Old 03-06-2013, 09:59 PM   #74374
neo1piv014
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Joined: Aug 2011
Location: Albuquerque, NM
Oddometer: 619
So I got the chain, sprockets, and TM40 carb installed over the last few days. I decided to go +1 on the front tooth since I do a lot of highway miles on this bike. My initial impressions are that the TM40's idle adjustment is a bit odd, but it's definitely getting sorted out. Honestly, I can't really tell any difference in power between the new carb and the old one, and that's with the gearing change. I might swap back to the stock gearing just to see what kind of a difference the carb alone makes, but I'm pretty happy with it. I was wondering if any of the folks on this thread could tell me how they went about doing the idle adjustment for this carb. It seems like it takes a lot of turns on that screw to get it to really make a difference.
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Old 03-06-2013, 10:15 PM   #74375
YankeeCajun
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Joined: Feb 2013
Oddometer: 22
Quote:
Originally Posted by Escaped View Post
If your bike is running fine, I would not worry about it. If fact I would only bother checking the compression if I was having an issue.

My bike has 40,000 + miles, and by the seat of my pants, I have no noticeable power loss.

When you said you "did my valves" do your mean you got a valve job not just checked and adjusted the clearance? If so what prompted you to rebuild the upper end?
Sorry for the confusion--I just checked and adjusted the valve clearances last summer--no full valve job. I did take apart the whole motor to put in the upgraded metal base gasket. I got everything put back together and forgot to put the oil back in the motor-. Had the bike sit idling for approximately one minute until the clatter of the valves reminded me I had forgot to put the oil back in. I put the oil back in and all seems ok. No smoke, starts just as easy as it always has. Couldn't tell any difference in the power either. I was just concerned about the 95 psi rating instead of the book rated 120 psi. As Paul Harvey would say: AND NOW YOU KNOW THE REST OF THE STORY, lol.

Thanks for all the posts on my question guys/gals!!
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Old 03-06-2013, 10:28 PM   #74376
FASTnSPEEDY
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Joined: Jul 2008
Oddometer: 95
In yalls opinion, what would a early 2000's DR 650 roller go for?

We're talking frame, wheels, tires, title, and all the other engine and body parts in bins (bike is technically complete except that the ?transmission? has some sort of issue, not really sure as the p/o took it apart and gave up with it).
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Old 03-07-2013, 12:07 AM   #74377
Magnum Noel
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Joined: Aug 2010
Location: Wellington NZ
Oddometer: 187
My DR is at 44,118 miles, not those wimpy kilometer thingies.
Jus checkin' to see if the Aussie and Kiwi riders are keepin' up.


Don't worry we're still here in the back ground keeping an eye on proceedings
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Old 03-07-2013, 01:35 AM   #74378
Thumper Dan
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Joined: Dec 2011
Location: Australia, Northern NSW
Oddometer: 325
Quote:
Originally Posted by Magnum Noel View Post
My DR is at 44,118 miles, not those wimpy kilometer thingies.
Jus checkin' to see if the Aussie and Kiwi riders are keepin' up.


Don't worry we're still here in the back ground keeping an eye on proceedings
Second that
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Old 03-07-2013, 02:58 AM   #74379
greer
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Joined: Jul 2005
Location: Glasgow, Kentucky
Oddometer: 3,801
Quote:
Originally Posted by flaadvandmtbrider View Post
2005 DR650, 3400 miles, for sale just down the road, all stock, new battery and rear tire, not too excited about yellow, but what should I pay??
The '05 yellow bikes are cool, fast, and tough. We put 58,000 miles on ours with nary a hiccup.

Sarah

Plug: Let me know if you need an IMS tank:

http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=865833
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Old 03-07-2013, 04:24 AM   #74380
wRnR
n00b
 
Joined: Mar 2013
Oddometer: 2
Hi evry1, can someone tell me how the DR650 does with a passenger riding with? Comfort? Power? Is it a nice bike for 2?
thanx!

wRnR screwed with this post 03-07-2013 at 04:30 AM
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Old 03-07-2013, 04:34 AM   #74381
jiiassa
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Joined: Nov 2007
Location: Finland, south side
Oddometer: 44
Quote:
Honestly, I can't really tell any difference in power between the new carb and the old one, and that's with the gearing change
Theres no big difference in max power but TM40 makes DR much better excelerating and excelerating pump makes cold starts much easier, works like primer.

And my DR has little powerhole between some 2000-3000rpm with BST but not with TM

If TM is in good settings, it takes same gas mileage than BST in stock but works better in cold.

If BST set up is fine for power and cold weather, it takes much more gas.
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Old 03-07-2013, 04:42 AM   #74382
jiiassa
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Joined: Nov 2007
Location: Finland, south side
Oddometer: 44
Quote:
Hi evry1, can someone tell me how the DR650 does with a passenger riding with? Comfort? Power? Is it a nice bike for 2?
thanx!
Max carrying load is something 155kg...suits for two very little people whose got no luggages.

Im 113kg, one time went 3km to the corner shop with friend who is something 80+kg, it was first and last time drive with passenger..

Rearspring was totally bottom and chain keep worse noise, espesially if upper chain roller is still in place.
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Old 03-07-2013, 05:32 AM   #74383
Albie
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Joined: Mar 2004
Location: NWA
Oddometer: 9,582
Quote:
Originally Posted by YankeeCajun View Post
I was just concerned about the 95 psi rating instead of the book rated 120 psi. As Paul Harvey would say: AND NOW YOU KNOW THE REST OF THE STORY, lol.

Thanks for all the posts on my question guys/gals!!
The auto decompress in the DR makes using a standard compression test invalid. You can always do a leak down test.
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Old 03-07-2013, 06:05 AM   #74384
planemanx15
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Joined: Dec 2009
Location: Long Island, NY
Oddometer: 1,009
New project guys... Since the 790 is done, and there is now more snow on the ground

Im going to attempt to build a fuel gauge. Basically, I want to tee off the fuel valve, and use a clear tube routed up the back side of the IMS tank near the seat and tank joint, and then vented to in the tank. I will need to tap into the tank near the top, or I will try to find another place to vent outside the tank that will not let water in.

I really don't want to drill into the tank, so Ill probably try to find somewhere else to vent to. Probably will try to find a small round ball that can float on top of the fuel in the clear line. I had a jetski that had an oil tank with a gauge like that, it worked great without any power or excessive tech.

Edit: I dont use the standard IMS tank cap, so venting to a tee on the cap would not work. I use the locking type cap.
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Old 03-07-2013, 08:26 AM   #74385
wRnR
n00b
 
Joined: Mar 2013
Oddometer: 2
I'm considering getting a new 2013 DR650 for me and my wife.
I'm 110kg, she's about 55kg. How will the bike do? Will it handle the weight fine or will we kill it?
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