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Old 03-06-2013, 09:28 AM   #74371
dljocky
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What rear shock did you install?




Quote:
Originally Posted by disconnected View Post
Just installed a heavier rear shock and new front valves and springs and it sits a little higher. But that doesnt really play a difference in comfort since the pegs and seat are still the same distance apart. ... doh...
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Old 03-06-2013, 09:41 AM   #74372
disconnected
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I didnt do the "shock" stated it wrong, I just started with the Procycle 8.3 Spring. and in the front I did the Ricor Intiminators and Race Tech Springs in a .80.

greg

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Originally Posted by dljocky View Post
What rear shock did you install?
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Old 03-06-2013, 11:00 AM   #74373
procycle
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Adv Grifter View Post
Where are they made? Any idea? Maybe we could drop a note to them and see about a 130/17 size for the DR, KLR, G and F BMW 650's, and a whole bunch of other bikes.
I've been asking MotoZ for 17" dual sport tires for years. Every time I see their rep at a trade show or event I bring it up. All I get is 'Yeah, we hear that a lot...'

Don't hold your breath
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Old 03-06-2013, 11:16 AM   #74374
ER70S-2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Obard View Post
It seems that if I leave the "choke" (or is it an enrichner) on, it won't die when I add throttle.
That suggests your pilot jet is plugged.
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ER70S-2 screwed with this post 03-06-2013 at 11:24 AM
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Old 03-06-2013, 12:03 PM   #74375
Adv Grifter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BombayG View Post
Hey guys, First post and I'm glad to have found this community! You guys seem very involved, knowledgeable and passionate about bikes!

I have one question: I am looking for a nice dual sport to take around town (I live near Los Angelese so i need one that can go on the freeway rides, city/town rides and I also want to take it off roading once in a while). That being said after my minimal research I came to the conclusion that the DR 650 post 2003 is a good choice for both freeway riding and off roading.

I am 6'4, 185lbs (of muscle :P). I want to eventuall take the bike on long distances (probably from cali to lets say new york?) or maybe even overseas and do some sight seeing. I want the bike to be reliable, comfortable, easy to fix (no fixing is best but if it does I want to be easy to fix it).

Is the DR650 right for me? Is there any problems associated with them (frame, engine, etc..?). I have never had a bike before, this would be my first one so I am a newbb! go easy on me with the limboo lol
First up should be to get some rider training.
http://online2.msf-usa.org/msf/Default.aspx

The DR650 is a good choice for you but may feel a bit cramped at your height. Think about using a TALL seat (see a few posts before this one for an example), also, you can lower foot pegs to allow more leg room.

The rest will come with lots of ON BIKE practice. The better your riding gets the more you will appreciate the DR650 for all the things you list. Lots of bikes could do Freeway, commute, and City traffic duty ... but not that many can do well off road. Take your time learning ... practice practice and more practice.
NOTE: MOTORCYCLES ARE DANGEROUS.
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Old 03-06-2013, 12:26 PM   #74376
Mambo Dave
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ER70S-2 View Post
That suggests your pilot jet is plugged.
I was thinking the same, or that some orifice was plugged up or partially blocked.

I just got through a huge learning curve with a Kawasaki Vulcan's carb, and this sounded very familliar.
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Old 03-06-2013, 01:24 PM   #74377
Bo Radley
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Originally Posted by Skidmarkart View Post
I picked up a 100% stock 2005 with low miles for $3700.

BTW - the yellow ones are the fastest.
I got my stock '05 with 9k miles for $2700.
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Old 03-06-2013, 01:41 PM   #74378
Kommando
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Quote:
Originally Posted by disconnected View Post
Just installed a heavier rear shock and new front valves and springs and it sits a little higher. But that doesnt really play a difference in comfort since the pegs and seat are still the same distance apart. ... doh...
Also cut an inch out of your footpeg brackets and weld them back together with the upper part further back towards the rear of the bike. Procycle offers lowered mounts too, and other vendors make lowering brackets as well.

Get a tall seatfoam kit. Seat Concepts and others offer these.

Get taller bars and/or bar-risers.

Add touring pegs to your skid. Happy Trails offers these. Lower your passenger pegs 2" and use those too, on long trips.
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Old 03-06-2013, 01:54 PM   #74379
BK.RD.RNR
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mambo Dave View Post
I was thinking the same, or that some orifice was plugged up or partially blocked.

I just got through a huge learning curve with a Kawasaki Vulcan's carb, and this sounded very familliar.
I don't know if you guys have seen the Pine Sol Degreaser Thread, but the process works really well on Carbs..

http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=560117
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Old 03-06-2013, 02:59 PM   #74380
Obard
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mambo Dave View Post
I was thinking the same, or that some orifice was plugged up or partially blocked.

I just got through a huge learning curve with a Kawasaki Vulcan's carb, and this sounded very familliar.
Ok, so is it possible to clean out the jet/orifice without taking the carb off, or is this going to require removal and dunk? I've been mucking around with the (new) extended idle mixture screw, turning in and out (procycle recommended 2.5 turns to start with) and I can change the stumble, but it doesn't go away, exactly. Let me get this straight, turning the screw in, leans it up? Turning it out, richens the mixture?
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Old 03-06-2013, 03:21 PM   #74381
YankeeCajun
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testing the motor compression on my DR 650--need advice

I have a 2000 DR 650 with 20,000 miles on it. Its starts up fine and does not smoke. Pep Boys has a 20% off everything sale so I snatched a compression tester to check out the compression on my bike. The best number I got was 95 psi after warming the bike up a little bit and holding the throttle wide open. I did my valves last summer and they are all in spec. The Suzuki service manual sez the DR 650 needs to put out 120 psi. Since my bike only put out 95 psi is this a "bad" sign or is it normal considering the mileage?
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Old 03-06-2013, 03:21 PM   #74382
Adv Grifter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Obard View Post
Ok, so is it possible to clean out the jet/orifice without taking the carb off, or is this going to require removal and dunk? I've been mucking around with the (new) extended idle mixture screw, turning in and out (procycle recommended 2.5 turns to start with) and I can change the stumble, but it doesn't go away, exactly. Let me get this straight, turning the screw in, leans it up? Turning it out, richens the mixture?
Ideally, pull the Carb off the bike. Just not that hard to do. That way you can get an up close look at it ... and learn all its workings. It's pretty simple. Working insitu is a bit of a pain ... but can be done by rotating Carb
90 degrees round.

To remove:
Remove seat, tank, side panels.
Loosen one of the two throttle cable adjuster nuts (10mm) and unscrew plastic choke. Lay cables aside.

Remove any vent or drain hoses in your way ... note where they came from.

Loosen two steel bands on air box and manifold rubbers holding Carb in place. Now gently wrestle Carb out of there. A 2nd set of fingers can help to squish air box manifold down.

The Pilot Jet is accessed by removing the Float Bowl. If your Carb still has the stock Phllips screws ... well .. they are VERY TIGHT and hard to remove. (thank EPA and CARB)

If PO has replaced them with allen screws ... then all the easier.
If stock screws are there carefully use an Impact Driver with the correct JIS bit. Hold Carb in vise with wood blocks ... not too tight.

Once the Bowl is off you will see both the Main jet and Pilot Jet near by.
Note jet numbers, blow out (eye protection) orifices where jets live. Carefully clean the tiny holes in the Pilot jet. Check O rings holding float and clean out that orifice. How does the bowl look? Grit? Sand in there? Water? Rust? Some replace ALL O rings at this time.

On top of the Carb, you can access the needle and slide. Make sure it's installed correctly and set on a notch that works with your jetting, altitude and use. Riding and testing works best here. DR's can be run very lean ... even with an open air box and pipe.

Correct on the Fuel Screw. IN is lean, OUT is rich. If jetting is correct, ONE TURN out from fully seated should be about right, give or take a 1/2 turn.

If you're unsure about the Pilot Jet ... just replace it with a new one. Stock size is good ... no matter the Carb/Air Box mods.
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Old 03-06-2013, 03:22 PM   #74383
motolab
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Obard View Post
Ok, so is it possible to clean out the jet/orifice without taking the carb off, or is this going to require removal and dunk? I've been mucking around with the (new) extended idle mixture screw, turning in and out (procycle recommended 2.5 turns to start with) and I can change the stumble, but it doesn't go away, exactly. Let me get this straight, turning the screw in, leans it up? Turning it out, richens the mixture?
I would just replace the pilot jet.

Regards,

Derek
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Old 03-06-2013, 04:13 PM   #74384
victor441
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Quote:
Originally Posted by disconnected View Post
Any Seat Concepts riders on board here. The price seems the most affordable. I have a compressor, but what type of staples are used to mount the seat? Did you guys use some sort of air stapler etc? Im capable, but want to know what im getting into.

specifically I like the seat concepts idea since they offer a "tall" at Procycle.

greg
I have one and like it a lot, bought an air stapler at HF for $25 or so and that worked great for the installation...the seat pan is hard plastic so you need the power of an air tool to sink the staples well. My "compressor" is a wimpy 120V tire inflator but the stapler uses so little air that it did the job fine. The staples are 1/4 or 5/16 T50's IIRC...

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Old 03-06-2013, 07:00 PM   #74385
Escaped
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If your bike is running fine, I would not worry about it. If fact I would only bother checking the compression if I was having an issue.

My bike has 40,000 + miles, and by the seat of my pants, I have no noticeable power loss.

When you said you "did my valves" do your mean you got a valve job not just checked and adjusted the clearance? If so what prompted you to rebuild the upper end?

Quote:
Originally Posted by YankeeCajun View Post
I have a 2000 DR 650 with 20,000 miles on it. Its starts up fine and does not smoke. Pep Boys has a 20% off everything sale so I snatched a compression tester to check out the compression on my bike. The best number I got was 95 psi after warming the bike up a little bit and holding the throttle wide open. I did my valves last summer and they are all in spec. The Suzuki service manual sez the DR 650 needs to put out 120 psi. Since my bike only put out 95 psi is this a "bad" sign or is it normal considering the mileage?
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