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Old 03-12-2013, 08:00 AM   #74671
Foot dragger
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ER70S-2 View Post
Obard:
Use a ratchet strap across the seat to get the 3 points aligned like BD's diagram. Pad the seat so the strap doesn't cut the seat cover. The bike will roll with the suspension pulled down (strapped), so check the tightness in several places.

When you're doing this, the chain slack will NOT be 1.2"-1.8". You just want free movement (no binding). And too loose is better than too tight!!

Be careful, as the kickstand might be too long and tip the bike over on the right side.

Like this (my shock is disconnected in this pic, don't pull it down this far).

Better pic, pulled down too far:
You can also follow Suzuki's instructions for setting chain slack at rest,it works great. Certain amount of slack when sitting on the sidestand and its done.
If theres tight spots like the OEM chain had on mine it will be noticeable going down the road.
Too tight is way worse then slightly loose on chains,its why guys rip the upper roller off the frame.
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Old 03-12-2013, 08:56 AM   #74672
rspratley
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Center stand

Does anyone know if the center stand for a dr pre 96 (old model) fits in a 96 dr650 (new model).
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Old 03-12-2013, 08:57 AM   #74673
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Originally Posted by Foot dragger View Post
You might want to stay with the 96 and up,the older ones are about 50lbs heavier and are a solid step backwards. Even a 96 and up is 80's technology for the most part.
Lots of aftermarket stuff for 96 and newer,not so much for the old ones.
Those RSE's are pretty cool and maybe worth having.

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Old 03-12-2013, 09:01 AM   #74674
motolab
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eakins View Post
I have 0 to 1/8 off-idle bog that i'm dealing with (some say just deal with it).
Does the bog happen anywhere above idle up to 1/8 opening? Does the problem improve or get worse when warmed up?
Quote:
Mods are: 2 washers on needle, 2nd hole drilled in the slide, pilot screw at 1 turn, snorkel pulled, Iridium plugs, aftermarket air filter.
I would install an adjustable needle instead of shimming a non-adjustable one. I would not drill the slide.
Quote:
-What is your opinion (again if I missed it) using the KTM adjustable needle vrs the non-US adjustable needle? I've heard they are ever so slightly different (in the tapper shape) with the KTM needle being richer.
I would try the non-USA adjustable needle first.
Quote:
I understand the KTM needle is longer (because an extra washer is used on that BST to help with engine vibration wear) and you must compensate for that when positioning to match the DR needle position.
You can raise the needle by one clip position to start, but I wouldn't worry about that too much, as the engine will tell you what clip position it wants when it comes time to tune 1/4 opening.
Quote:
Non-US DR needle or KTM?
I would try the non-USA DR needle first.
Quote:
The KTM needle is easy to order. I was planning on buying one. No idea about the non-US needle?
See http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=528038.
Quote:
-what is your opinion on drilling a 2nd hole in the slide, like is found on the KTM BST?
I think it's a bad idea.
Quote:
how is that affecting operation?
It drastically accelerates slide guide, emulsion tube slide and jet needle wear, while making less horsepower at every opening on the KTM I tried it on.
Quote:
& in what relationship to the spring tension?
Spring rate and preload controls the average height the slide rises to for a given intersection of throttle position and rpm. The lift hole area controls how damped the slide movement is, i.e. how much it oscillates.
Quote:
-I have a stock pipe on for now but will put back on a GSXR muffler when I can get to it in a few months.
What will happen to my setup? I know i need to test, but will this pipe require new jets or just needle clip adjustment and maybe some pilot screw fine tuning?
It likely won't need anything too radically different than what it needs now, but the engine will tell you.

Regards,

Derek
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Old 03-12-2013, 09:06 AM   #74675
motolab
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Originally Posted by SoPaRider View Post
I'm sure this has been asked and answered here before, but since the air box mod has been brought up and I'm deciding whether to do the air box mod or not, what are the pros and cons to doing so and has anyone wished they hadn't done the mod afterwards?
I wouldn't do it unless I knew that the compression, timing, exhaust flow and/or quality of fuel supported higher cylinder pressures without the danger of detonation. It may take some work to get jetted properly.

Regards,

Derek
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Old 03-12-2013, 10:23 AM   #74676
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Foot dragger View Post
A loud muffler and cut up airbox can often feel like more power,often a dyno doesnt agree.
This isn't the case with the DR. An open airbox and free flowing exhaust are good for about a 5-6 HP increase. That's very significant on a bike that only makes 34 HP at the tire in stock form.
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Old 03-12-2013, 10:43 AM   #74677
Adv Grifter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by motolab View Post
I wouldn't do it unless I knew that the compression, timing, exhaust flow and/or quality of fuel supported higher cylinder pressures without the danger of detonation. It may take some work to get jetted properly.

Regards,

Derek
Hundreds of DR riders have opened the air box with no hint of detonation ... or any other problems. DR motors losing compression is very rare. Unless the top end has been fooled with ... timing will not be off.

The DR650 runs perfectly on even the lowest Octane Mexican fuel. (roughly 84 Octane) No pinging ... even in 100F temps. I'm running stock exhaust but ran an FMF Q2 for the first 5000 miles ... no problems at all with open air box regards pinging, over heating or poor running.

I followed the Jesse tuning guide to start, once the DJ needle was installed, jetting was mere child's play... my bike runs on the lean side but not dangerously so. Makes better power than a stock bike (maybe one or two HP more), still gets around 50 MPG.

Adv Grifter screwed with this post 03-12-2013 at 10:49 AM
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Old 03-12-2013, 11:04 AM   #74678
motolab
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Adv Grifter View Post
Hundreds of DR riders have opened the air box with no hint of detonation ... or any other problems.
A quick search reveals http://www.advrider.com/forums/showp...ostcount=67419, http://www.advrider.com/forums/showt...6#post18052596, http://www.advrider.com/forums/showt...3#post16094853, http://www.advrider.com/forums/showt...g#post15781952, http://www.advrider.com/forums/showp...ostcount=15252, http://www.advrider.com/forums/showt...n#post20447527, and http://www.advrider.com/forums/showt...n#post20440712
Quote:
DR motors losing compression is very rare.
I didn't say anything about losing compression.
Quote:
Unless the top end has been fooled with ... timing will not be off.
I was referring to the ignition timing. I was also not saying that it might be off. What I was trying to get at is that it could be advanced enough in stock form that the increase in cylinder pressures resultant from opening up the intake could lead to detonation. Sorry for not having been clearer...
Quote:
The DR650 runs perfectly on even the lowest Octane Mexican fuel. (roughly 84 Octane) No pinging ... even in 100F temps.
That may in fact be true, but realize that once you are able to hear it, it's pretty severe.
Quote:
I'm running stock exhaust but ran an FMF Q2 for the first 5000 miles ... no problems at all with open air box regards pinging, over heating or poor running.
The FMF wold have increased detonation resistance over stock.
Quote:
I followed the Jesse tuning guide to start, once the DJ needle was installed, jetting was mere child's play... my bike runs on the lean side but not dangerously so. Makes better power than a stock bike (maybe one or two HP more), still gets around 50 MPG.
Do you have dyno charts and EGA data to share with us?

Regards,

Derek
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Old 03-12-2013, 11:22 AM   #74679
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Quote:
Originally Posted by btweaver13 View Post
Quick and dirty question: cruising at 65 MPH, what is the approximate RPM drop moving up from 14T to 15T on the CS? The ratio changes from .333 to .357 (6.7%); does that roughly equate into a 6.7% decrease in RPM at equal MPH (or 6.7% increase in MPH at equal RPM)?

I've seen a very generic rule of thumb that 1 tooth on the CS results in a 500 RPM change. If that's reasonably accurate, a CS swap will take place tonight.

Weave
When I go from a 15t to a 16t, it raises my comfortable cruising about 8 mph; from 67-8 to 75. GPS

I'm guessing 14t to 15t will be about the same, from whatever speed you're willing to run the 14t.
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Old 03-12-2013, 11:53 AM   #74680
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Quote:
Originally Posted by btweaver13 View Post
Quick and dirty question: cruising at 65 MPH, what is the approximate RPM drop moving up from 14T to 15T on the CS? The ratio changes from .333 to .357 (6.7%); does that roughly equate into a 6.7% decrease in RPM at equal MPH (or 6.7% increase in MPH at equal RPM)?

I've seen a very generic rule of thumb that 1 tooth on the CS results in a 500 RPM change. If that's reasonably accurate, a CS swap will take place tonight.

Weave
With a 42t rear, 14 to 15t is about a 300rpm drop.
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Old 03-12-2013, 11:54 AM   #74681
Adv Grifter
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Those links don't reveal specifics regards mods to individual bikes. Did they all have Open Air Boxes? And what jetting did they have? State of tune/condition of the bikes? In most cases pinging results from the owner either lugging the bike ... or doing a poor job of tuning/jetting/mods. Also, in some cases the owners are literally "hearing things" ... and don't really know what Pinging, Detonation sounds like. A flopping chain can fool a lot of riders.

Quote:
Originally Posted by motolab View Post
I didn't say anything about losing compression.I was referring to the ignition timing. I was also not saying that it might be off. What I was trying to get at is that it could be advanced enough in stock form that the increase in cylinder pressures resultant from opening up the intake could lead to detonation.
Fair enough. But are you saying stock compression is too high to handle the open air box mod? And timing may be too advanced to handle it? If that was the case then, IMHO, we'd have many more reports of severe detonation from guys who'd opened up the Air Box.

Quote:
Originally Posted by motolab View Post
but realize that once you are able to hear it, it's pretty severe.The FMF wold have increased detonation resistance over stock.Do you have dyno charts and EGA data to share with us?
Regards,

Derek
The fact is most guys wouldn't know pinging from chain clatter .... but yes, once you hear it ... you've got problems. Do you believe my bike would have made it to 50,000 miles? ... mostly all on regular gas ... if severe detonation, or even MINOR detonation existed I would think my piston would be toast ... and bits of Alu would have shown up on my plugs before that.
Lots can be revealed from spark plugs.
I have no Dyno Charts. But maybe you can share with us any Dyno Charts you've done ... in your shop .... on customer bikes?
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Old 03-12-2013, 12:50 PM   #74682
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rusty Rocket View Post
Mine smokes on start some times. I wonder if it is gas that has gotten "old". After it warms up no more for the rest of the day.

I have 20K miles on mine and it could be valves seals, but the PO was a Suzuki mechanic and he did a piston and rings and might have done some work on the head, so I just deal with it. It isn't every time and it really doesn't bother me because I had 2 strokes for the first 40 years of riding.
Try back-blowing your spark arrestor. If it's not done for a long time, carbon deposits build up and come out like light blue oil smoke, but with a funny (not oil) odor.
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Old 03-12-2013, 12:54 PM   #74683
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There is a bolt/plug on the stock muffler,undo it for a few.
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Old 03-12-2013, 01:12 PM   #74684
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Carb Talk

It's 72 degrees and Sunny here is Sacramento right now. I should be riding not stuck here at work, eating lunch and reading about jetting and pre-detonation

I have 41,000 + plus miles on my 2006 DR and with most of those miles with an missing side cover. The jetting is slightly rich by my reckoning (plug color) and the bike runs great 45 to 50 mpg. Closer to 45 in winter, 50 in summer - darn alcohol contaminated fuel.

I do run premium fuel, because after 2 or so tanks of regular fuel my bike seems to "cut out" like its running out of gas, when cruising at 50 MPH of so. Does not do that under full throttle or at lower speeds

Problem goes away as soon as I switch back to premium - I think I has to do with the alcohol in the the fuel. Maybe lean at 1/2 throttle?
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Old 03-12-2013, 01:13 PM   #74685
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Hello DR650'ers. I don't have one yet, but I am thinking about buying a used one I found for sale. I was wondering if someone could give me an idea on how much power they have, with a TM40 Mikuni and GSXR exhaust? I don't mean numbers, but by the seatofyourpants dyno. Also how well do they run at very low speeds through sticky stuff?
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