the DR650 thread

[doug s.]

Originally Posted by racer

I like the DR because its aircooled and no doohickey to fix unlike the KLR. I like the KLR because it is big and roomy with a 6 gallon gas tank. Has anyone ever put a DR motor in a KLR frame? Best of both worlds me thinks and it would lighten the KLR too.

yust take a dr650 & put on a bigger tank, better seat, and lowered pegs/different bars. seems a much simpler solution, imo.

doug s.

[eakins]

Originally Posted by racer

I like the DR because its aircooled and no doohickey to fix unlike the KLR. I like the KLR because it is big and roomy with a 6 gallon gas tank. Has anyone ever put a DR motor in a KLR frame? Best of both worlds me thinks and it would lighten the KLR too.

No! The DR frame is better IMO & the KLR suspension is bad.

I had a KLR and understand what to talk of.
I got that KLR opened-up comfort & felling with a big tank, windscreen, taller bars (atv mid) and dropped foot pegs (ProCycle).

[badweatherbiker]

hi guys, putting everything back together on the dr and needed to know the torque specs on the front and rear sprockets.
Thanks!

[eakins]

Originally Posted by badweatherbiker

hi guys, putting everything back together on the dr and needed to know the torque specs on the front and rear sprockets.
Thanks!

Counter sprocket bolts - 4.5 ft lbs (shoulder/raised area goes in towards engine)
Rear Sprocket – 19.5 ftlbs
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showp...6&postcount=20

[Rusty Rocket]

Originally Posted by racer

Has anyone ever put a DR motor in a KLR frame?

No, but I seriously considered putting my DR motor in my 2000 KTM frame before I ended up selling it.( the KTM that is).

[Adv Grifter]

Originally Posted by TIGERRIDER007

That looks fairly simple, is the trick just getting good balance on a hard surface?
Where might one find one of these?
Thank you good sir.

You can improvise just about anything to do this job. Yes ... balance point.
It's not terribly stable but if you work carefully when removing front wheel you will have no problem.

Put bike IN GEAR and BLOCK rear tire. Find suitable place to position prop stand ... even under header pipe works ... Helps to have help hoiking the DR up into position while assistant inserts prop stand. I can do it solo ... but I'm a world class Bodger. A few folks sell adjustable prob stands. Not sure of links, but they are around. But a piece 2X4 can work just as well.

[badweatherbiker]

thanks for the numbers but how the beck do you get the wheel back in after a Cush rubber replacement??

Originally Posted by eakins

Counter sprocket bolts - 4.5 ft lbs (shoulder/raised area goes in towards engine)
Rear Sprocket – 19.5 ftlbs
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showp...6&postcount=20

[Albie]

Originally Posted by Adv Grifter

Not generally true. Hundreds of DR owners have over loaded their DR's and done rough ON and OFF road riding. Most make it through no problem.

A few have cracked ... but mostly in extreme cases like Jammin Jay (see Ride Reports)

The Suzuki is strongest among most of it's 650 Dual Sport competition .. including: KLR, XR650L, XT600/660, BMW F650 and KTM 640.
Welding up some Gussets and supports is not a bad idea .. but you will have to be riding on very knarly tracks with a very heavy load to break the stock sub frame on the DR.

Sad to say, I'm one of the few.

[Albie]

Originally Posted by dopra

My bike it is ready to race :)

Not with that front brake line hanging out in the wind!

[sandwash]

I sprayed some lube (lightly,)or something slippery) on the new cush rubbers,they will slid easier into place.That's what I had to do.

[VooDooDaddy]

Originally Posted by sandwash

I sprayed some lube (lightly,)or something slippery) on the new cush rubbers,they will slid easier into place.That's what I had to do.

WD-40 works great for that exact purpose.

[eakins]

Originally Posted by badweatherbiker

thanks for the numbers but how the beck do you get the wheel back in after a Cush rubber replacement??

when i replaced mine, i also noticed they pushed out more than the compressed old ones. as such, the cush drive sat out farther away from the main hub. i tried over and over to get the cush drive to push in deeper into the hub so I could fit the whole wheel into the swingarm space. no go. i keep thinking i put them in wrong or something like that.

in the end I removed that thin metal spacer on the left side where the shaft goes thru. i then mounted the wheel and snugged it down enough where i could see the cush drive move in deeper into the hub. i let sit like that for a few days then put spacer back on and it all fit then.

no idea how they build the bike from the factory?

[squidhunter]

I decided to check my NSU screws today. I have a 2011 that I bought new and have racked up around 6500 miles. I cracked open the case and this is what I found.

I was under the impression the screws were something other than allen heads, considering that's what most people are putting in there??
Anyways, they were tight. While I was in there I put everything back together using loctite. No need to pull the clutch or any of that crap... Even reused the old gasket.

[greer]

We've had it for years and seems tough as nails. Heaviest bike we've had on it is Doug's KLR, it lifts that thing without a problem and held it several days while he did a 685 kit.

Sarah

Originally Posted by TIGERRIDER007

Thanks Sarah, that looks great for the garage, is it fairly sturdy?

[dljocky]

Thanks for the link, I may try one of the IRC CP-1's. Which size is closest to 120/90-17, the 4.60-17 or the 5.10-17?

Originally Posted by eakins

i've heard the K270 is a little better rear in that aspect.
the lugs are slightly wider and the rubber compound is slightly softer thus grippier.

there is also the IRC GP-1
http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com...Rear-Tire.aspx
Shinko gets all the attention because of the good price and decent tire but IRC (japanese build) is a better tire...at $128 it's a hard sell however and most choose Kenda or Shinko instead.