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Old 09-26-2007, 09:23 AM   #7486
bumpathump
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Max -

Well done.

Fender looks great and has to work 100 times better than the high oem fender.

What BMW is the fender from? Will the fender fit with oem fork boots installed?

Thanks.

Rick
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Old 09-26-2007, 09:30 AM   #7487
Corpse
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Question Useless fact...

I got 186 kms on a full tank w/o reserve. Thats 186km for 10 litres. 18.6km per litre. I use a 14t front sproket and for this tank it was almost only ridden on the road. 1 trip 50km. 1 trip 100km. 36km of numerous small trips around town and to work. It was Mobil Premium which I think is 95 Octane?

Do you think a 15t ridden on the road will make much difference to fuel economy?
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Corpse screwed with this post 09-26-2007 at 10:47 AM
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Old 09-26-2007, 09:31 AM   #7488
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Originally Posted by Klay

I'm laughing too, but only because of the pain killers and bourbon.
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Old 09-26-2007, 09:32 AM   #7489
Rusty Rocket
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Django Loco
I know most here go with Eibach springs up front. I also know the Eibach straight rate spring is shorter than the stock progressive Suzuki fork springs and you need to add a PVC spacer to make up the shorter spring in order to achieve correct preload.

Given that a shorter spring means a stiffer spring, could one CUT the stock spring to a certain length and achieve the a similar result to an Eibach? (Adding a spacer to match the cut off amount.

Unless the Eibach wire is thicker or less tightly wound, this could work, no? I'm experimenting, thought I'd give it a shot.

Can anyone tell me the length of their Eiback spring and what the rate is?

Anyone ever cut stock springs before? Anygood?

TIA !!!
You are correct that if you cut a spring it will make it stiffer. A spring is similar to a long metal rod that is wound back around itself. If you had a straight rod, say like a long willow branch, the shorter you make it the harder it is to bend. The thing about shortening springs is that you have enough space between the coils to allow fork travel without the wires hitting each other. you can figure out what you can safely remove by measuring the space between coils and dividing that into wheel travel. Then add at least 2 extra coils for clearance. The other thing you have to do is close the top coil down and grind the end like the stock spring has. This is known as "closed and ground" in spring terminology. Do this at your own risk, cuz I don't reccommend it unless you know exactly what you are up to. I did it on a KDX 200 with XR400 springs, but they were too long to start with, so coil binding was a non issue. There was plenty of space.
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Old 09-26-2007, 09:43 AM   #7490
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bumpathump
Max -

Well done.

Fender looks great and has to work 100 times better than the high oem fender.

What BMW is the fender from? Will the fender fit with oem fork boots installed?

Thanks.

Rick
The Fender is of an '85 R100RT. For me it bolted right up to the bosses on the fork no drilling or fitting. The down side is it is fiberglass, But it will have to do till I find a plastic replacement.
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Old 09-26-2007, 10:52 AM   #7491
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DGETHIS
damn... i cant believe this thread is 500 pages long... has anyone read from begining to end?
I read it in 2 days between being told by the dealer that it was the bike for me (instead of DRZ400E that I thought I wanted) and accepting the loan offer by my bank.

It turned out the dealer was right.
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Old 09-26-2007, 12:43 PM   #7492
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rusty Rocket
you can figure out what you can safely remove by measuring the space between coils and dividing that into wheel travel. Then add at least 2 extra coils for clearance. The other thing you have to do is close the top coil down and grind the end like the stock spring has. This is known as "closed and ground" in spring terminology. Do this at your own risk, cuz I don't reccommend it unless you know exactly what you are up to.
Thanks for the advice. I've cut spring before and "Closed" the top using a combo of bench grinder and disc grinder. Mine ain't pretty but seem to work and the preload spacer fit on it nicely....flat, level, straight.

I have no idea what I'm doing....but have some basic mechanical skills.

So, can anyone tell me the length of their Eiback Springs? Spring rate? Jesse thinks I should use .47 kgs/mm. I am just wondering if I can get in the ball park by cutting the stock springs to equal the Eibach length, which I'm sure vary depending on Spring rate. Higher number = Shorter Spring, lower number=longer spring. Make sense?

Cheers!
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Old 09-26-2007, 01:28 PM   #7493
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I just ordered new boingers front and back from Jesse today. I just fessed up that I was 200 pounds of farm boy and he knew just which ones to send me. I'm getting that extended mixture screw, manual choke, and a few other bits as well.
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Old 09-26-2007, 01:39 PM   #7494
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Django Loco
Thanks for the advice. I've cut spring before and "Closed" the top using a combo of bench grinder and disc grinder. Mine ain't pretty but seem to work and the preload spacer fit on it nicely....flat, level, straight.

I have no idea what I'm doing....but have some basic mechanical skills.

So, can anyone tell me the length of their Eiback Springs? Spring rate? Jesse thinks I should use .47 kgs/mm. I am just wondering if I can get in the ball park by cutting the stock springs to equal the Eibach length, which I'm sure vary depending on Spring rate. Higher number = Shorter Spring, lower number=longer spring. Make sense?

Cheers!
i thing that's about how it should be ~.47 kg/mm ,i replaced mine 3 months ago i went with Einbach, i talked to Jesse to give him springs specs. meaning ,your weight bike extra loads & type of riding u do ,this way he'll give u the ones that fit ur needs , i installed them ,now that was easy ,but i didn't check the oil level ,( the oil was low ) that makes a big difference ,so u might want to look at the oil level ,i used 15w .Measure the fork spring free length ,if it's shorter than service limit ,replace it : service limit : 548 mm = 21.6 inch
Fork oil capacity : 565 ml or .56 lit.
oil level : 164 mm or 6.5 inch ,good luck
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Old 09-26-2007, 01:45 PM   #7495
Rusty Rocket
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Django Loco
Higher number = Shorter Spring, lower number=longer spring. Make sense?

Cheers!
The rate is a function of wire diameter and how the spring is wound among other things. You can't just cut the Suzuki spring to the same length as the Eibach and figure they are the same.
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Old 09-26-2007, 01:54 PM   #7496
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http://www.racetech.com/evalving/Spr...pringType=Fork

Django: check here for a ballpark rate. You can't go wrong by doing what Jesse says. If you hunt around the racetech site you can find out a bunch about springs and suspensions. Then deal with Jesse.
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Old 09-26-2007, 02:09 PM   #7497
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Wicked My first time swinging tha leg...

over my virgin 2007




Mmmmm, feels gooooood......


Farkle, farkle on the bike, who's the fairest that I'll like......
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Old 09-26-2007, 03:30 PM   #7498
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new 07dr650, yeah!

just picked up a new 07 (blue) dr650. i traded in my f4i:ouch. knowing i was going to trade in my honda ,for the much slower thumper, i rode it like a bat out of hell on the way to the dealer just to get it out of my system. i think it worked because i had a ball riding the dr home. without a tach -wtf- it's going to be a little tricky breaking it in. its got a whopping 13 miles on it. after the first 5 or 600 miles i'll think about some mods to cool the bike down a little bit. they are lean from the factory. my right leg was getting a little warm on the short 10 mile ride home. all in all i'm very happy with the trade. i knew i was going to take a big power hit but i couldn't care less anymore. i wanted a good reliable easy to work on motorcycle. no more having to take off plastic to do an oil change. and best of all i can slow down and enjoy the scenery. and with the relative mechanical simplicity of these bikes there'll be less mystery to them if something amiss should happen on the side of the road somewhere. i never knew what the hell was going on under all that plastic on the honda and couldn't of cared less. but with the dr im already looking forward to checking the valves at 600 miles. i'm going to order the valve kit from jesse. i could see me falling in love with these thumpers for a long time to come. p.s sorry for the long winded post.
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Old 09-26-2007, 03:58 PM   #7499
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Washington Pass Overlook - North Cascades Hwy, WA


getting to the good stuff
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Old 09-26-2007, 04:42 PM   #7500
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Wicked

Here's my DR 650 when i first got it, she aint so clean no more!
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