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Old 04-05-2013, 08:32 AM   #75496
Bronco638
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Raddwurx


I have 6 of each for sale right now..if there is interest I will make more.

Will be back sat. Or sun. to check in.
I would be interested in one unit of Style 2, depending on the price. Thanks!!
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Old 04-05-2013, 09:08 AM   #75497
maynard911
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Quote:
Originally Posted by poppawheelie View Post
Now that it's been around awhile, what's the consensus of opinion for it's use in the DR? Has anyone actually used it for starting in a cold climate; or run heated gear or grips with it?
Good luck on getting a consensus on batteries, or tires, or oil.
I've had a Shorai for about 3yrs now. Zero issues, it just works. I don't ride below 45-50 degrees so I can't comment on cold start problems that others have mentioned. You can charge them on any battery charger that doesn't have an automatic desulfation feature. No need for a float charger as they don't seem to lose charge while sitting.
Would I buy it again? Probably not for the DR, but for the plated WR450 street tracker I'm putting together definitely.
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Old 04-05-2013, 10:09 AM   #75498
bross
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Quote:
Originally Posted by maynard911 View Post
Good luck on getting a consensus on batteries, or tires, or oil.
I've had a Shorai for about 3yrs now. Zero issues, it just works. I don't ride below 45-50 degrees so I can't comment on cold start problems that others have mentioned. You can charge them on any battery charger that doesn't have an automatic desulfation feature. No need for a float charger as they don't seem to lose charge while sitting.
Would I buy it again? Probably not for the DR, but for the plated WR450 street tracker I'm putting together definitely.
I've tried 2 Shorai's, one in my Honda CBF1000 and one in my wife's DR200. The CBF never failed to start but on at least 10 times it *barely*, and I mean barely started. These were cool mornings, not cold by any stretch, 50-52 degrees. Each time I was getting ready to pull the seats off the bikes and use my jumper cables and you try it "just one more time", and it would finally start. Had NO confidence in that battery.

Wife's DR200 failed to start several times, not even on cold mornings and would randomly act like the battery was completely flat necessitating a bump start. I checked it each time and the battery connections were tight. Have been running a good old lead acid battery for over a year now with zero issues.

That was a few years ago that I had the Shorai in my CBF and since then they have increased their recommended battery size. To get reasonably reliable performance from these batteries you have to way over size them, which makes them even more expensive. Personally I wouldn't use one of these when a good old fashioned much cheaper battery is good for at least 4-5 years of service for me.

This is one of the threads about the new batteries, lots of technical info but interesting read over the winter.

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=770364

bross screwed with this post 04-05-2013 at 10:21 AM
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Old 04-05-2013, 10:26 AM   #75499
Swell_rider
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Originally Posted by shu View Post
Is it item #4 that you're talking about? That spring should be available by itself. I replaced mine a few years ago. I think I got it at Babbit's on line. It's listed for $9.86.

..........shu
No, it's the other one, packaged with the caliper hanger as #11
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Old 04-05-2013, 11:33 AM   #75500
sandwash
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Duplicate key info:
Key number suz 12 works the tank(no helmet lock on bikes so don't know about that,should work though).
Key number suz 18 is the blank that works the ignition and fork lock and gas cap(should work helmet lock also,just can not confirm) .Suz 18 is a longer blank than suz 12.
Suz 12 will not push down enough to engage the pins to make the lock turn.
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Old 04-05-2013, 01:25 PM   #75501
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Quote:
Originally Posted by poppawheelie View Post
Now that it's been around awhile, what's the consensus of opinion for it's use in the DR? Has anyone actually used it for starting in a cold climate; or run heated gear or grips with it?
Quote:
Originally Posted by ER70S-2 View Post
Poppa:
There are better choices, EarthX being one of them (Antigravity is also testing well). I'm subscribed to 3 high tech battery threads here. On post #113 in one of them (can't find it ), it explains why Shorai isn't ready for adventure riding; meaning the guys who depend on their bike starting without question. I ride solo, so I'm going to stay with conventional tech for now. YMMV, IMO, yada yada

Edit: Another problem, they prefer a new high tech battery charger too, more $$$.
This is the thread I referred to, post #113 is a summary of sorts.

Thanks to Bross for the link:
http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=770364
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Old 04-05-2013, 02:20 PM   #75502
frecks
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Finally finished my engine rebuild! I hope to get it in the bike tomorrow and see if she runs. I will be pretty excited to have it back in service after a year and a half, so hopefully all goes well.



The DR will see occasional use by me on the trails, but that won't be it's main use. It will mostly be used as a first bike for my girlfriend who's wanted a motorcycle for a couple years now. She's already taken the MSF course and got her endorsement. The DR makes a great bike to learn on so I feel it will do well in this role, with one exception - seat height. If I'm not mistaken, the DR has a stock seat height of 34.1". My girlfriend is 5'4" with a 30" inseam. I've got the bike on 17" supermoto wheels, which effectively lowered the front end by 2". I'm going to try lowering the rear by moving the rear shock bolt to the other hole as I've read can be done. This should have the added benefit of fixing the steering geometry. Switching to the 17" wheels without lowering the rear at all changed the rake/trail enough to cause a bit of a wobble at 80+, so hopefully that disappears.

The question I have is this: After I lower the rear as mentioned above, my math tells me that the bike will still be 2" too tall for her. What are your recommendations for dropping an extra 2" in seat height without destroying the steering geometry or causing the tires to hit the fenders when the suspension compresses? Anything I do has to be reversible and ideally wouldn't be too expensive. I will of course have her give it a try after I lower the rear to see if that is actually enough, but I suspect it won't be.

I appreciate the advice [if anyone actually bothered to read this long-winded post] & I have to say, this thread is great. I've learned a ton from reading this stuff.
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Old 04-05-2013, 02:49 PM   #75503
bross
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Quote:
Originally Posted by frecks View Post
Finally finished my engine rebuild! I hope to get it in the bike tomorrow and see if she runs. I will be pretty excited to have it back in service after a year and a half, so hopefully all goes well.



The DR will see occasional use by me on the trails, but that won't be it's main use. It will mostly be used as a first bike for my girlfriend who's wanted a motorcycle for a couple years now. She's already taken the MSF course and got her endorsement. The DR makes a great bike to learn on so I feel it will do well in this role, with one exception - seat height. If I'm not mistaken, the DR has a stock seat height of 34.1". My girlfriend is 5'4" with a 30" inseam. I've got the bike on 17" supermoto wheels, which effectively lowered the front end by 2". I'm going to try lowering the rear by moving the rear shock bolt to the other hole as I've read can be done. This should have the added benefit of fixing the steering geometry. Switching to the 17" wheels without lowering the rear at all changed the rake/trail enough to cause a bit of a wobble at 80+, so hopefully that disappears.

The question I have is this: After I lower the rear as mentioned above, my math tells me that the bike will still be 2" too tall for her. What are your recommendations for dropping an extra 2" in seat height without destroying the steering geometry or causing the tires to hit the fenders when the suspension compresses? Anything I do has to be reversible and ideally wouldn't be too expensive. I will of course have her give it a try after I lower the rear to see if that is actually enough, but I suspect it won't be.

I appreciate the advice [if anyone actually bothered to read this long-winded post] & I have to say, this thread is great. I've learned a ton from reading this stuff.
Lower the front as per the manual as well, maybe look for a factory gel seat. I believe the gel seat is another inch lower than the stocker. After that I wouldn't worry too much. The DR is pretty narrow and will allow her to get her feet down, plus make sure your preload is backed off as much as possible for her so the bike will squat once she's seated. Teach her to get on the bike like a horse. Stand on left, left foot on footpeg, and lean into the bike so your centered more or less, then just stand up on the left peg and swing your leg over the seat. Dismount the same way. The DRs not heavy (comparatively), so as long as she can get the balls of her feet down she should be fine. I don't suffer from a short inseam but years of riding our sons dirt bikes with 37" seat heights conditions you to just making do.

Once it's back together see how she feels sitting on it but don't make a huge issue of the height.
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Old 04-05-2013, 04:48 PM   #75504
Kommando
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Quote:
Originally Posted by frecks View Post
Finally finished my engine rebuild! I hope to get it in the bike tomorrow and see if she runs. I will be pretty excited to have it back in service after a year and a half, so hopefully all goes well.

The DR will see occasional use by me on the trails, but that won't be it's main use. It will mostly be used as a first bike for my girlfriend who's wanted a motorcycle for a couple years now. She's already taken the MSF course and got her endorsement. The DR makes a great bike to learn on so I feel it will do well in this role, with one exception - seat height. If I'm not mistaken, the DR has a stock seat height of 34.1". My girlfriend is 5'4" with a 30" inseam. I've got the bike on 17" supermoto wheels, which effectively lowered the front end by 2". I'm going to try lowering the rear by moving the rear shock bolt to the other hole as I've read can be done. This should have the added benefit of fixing the steering geometry. Switching to the 17" wheels without lowering the rear at all changed the rake/trail enough to cause a bit of a wobble at 80+, so hopefully that disappears.

The question I have is this: After I lower the rear as mentioned above, my math tells me that the bike will still be 2" too tall for her. What are your recommendations for dropping an extra 2" in seat height without destroying the steering geometry or causing the tires to hit the fenders when the suspension compresses? Anything I do has to be reversible and ideally wouldn't be too expensive. I will of course have her give it a try after I lower the rear to see if that is actually enough, but I suspect it won't be.

I appreciate the advice [if anyone actually bothered to read this long-winded post] & I have to say, this thread is great. I've learned a ton from reading this stuff.
Her inseam is enough for an unlowered DR with stock tires and seat...once she's comfortable on a 370lb bike. I easily ride an unlowered DR with a 30" inseam.

Fix the geometry, as mentioned before, by factory-lowering the rear. It might be low enough for her as is then. If not, Seat Concepts has a low seat re-covering kit for the DR now. You could also slide the forks up in the clamps and get lowering links for the rear. The DR can be made really crazy low for a dualsport.

If you lower the suspension, you're going to want a lower sidestand too. There are adjustable ones sold on Ebay. Some people also make their stock stand adjustable by cutting, tapping threads, and inserting a threaded rod with jamnuts on it.
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Old 04-05-2013, 05:51 PM   #75505
deathu
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Quote:
Originally Posted by frecks View Post
The question I have is this: After I lower the rear as mentioned above, my math tells me that the bike will still be 2" too tall for her. What are your recommendations for dropping an extra 2" in seat height without destroying the steering geometry or causing the tires to hit the fenders when the suspension compresses? Anything I do has to be reversible and ideally wouldn't be too expensive. I will of course have her give it a try after I lower the rear to see if that is actually enough, but I suspect it won't be.

I appreciate the advice [if anyone actually bothered to read this long-winded post] & I have to say, this thread is great. I've learned a ton from reading this stuff.
I'd recommend to actually have her check the bike in it's current form, before making any additional changes, it's likely a very good fit if it's already 2 inches lower than stock. Seat height does not need to be equal to the inseamn, at least not on a DR.
I have a 29" inseam and I ride the stock unlowered bike, it is a bit on the high side for me but absolutely manageable given the relatively low weight (for a 650) and the narrow seat (this helps a LOT). I wouldn't be surprised if she almost flatfoots the bike in it's current form.
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Old 04-05-2013, 05:51 PM   #75506
Old_Lion
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Four DR650s for sale in Ithaca, NY



http://www.suzukicycles.com/Product%...3/DR650SE.aspx

I wonder if the blue color is gone for good.

George

http://www.facebook.com/pages/Gold-S...718?ref=stream
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Old 04-05-2013, 06:29 PM   #75507
poppawheelie
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Shorai Battery

Quote:
Originally Posted by bross View Post
I've tried 2 Shorai's, one in my Honda CBF1000 and one in my wife's DR200. The CBF never failed to start but on at least 10 times it *barely*, and I mean barely started. These were cool mornings, not cold by any stretch, 50-52 degrees. Each time I was getting ready to pull the seats off the bikes and use my jumper cables and you try it "just one more time", and it would finally start. Had NO confidence in that battery.

Wife's DR200 failed to start several times, not even on cold mornings and would randomly act like the battery was completely flat necessitating a bump start. I checked it each time and the battery connections were tight. Have been running a good old lead acid battery for over a year now with zero issues.

That was a few years ago that I had the Shorai in my CBF and since then they have increased their recommended battery size. To get reasonably reliable performance from these batteries you have to way over size them, which makes them even more expensive. Personally I wouldn't use one of these when a good old fashioned much cheaper battery is good for at least 4-5 years of service for me.

This is one of the threads about the new batteries, lots of technical info but interesting read over the winter.

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=770364
Thanks for all the answers. I'd say the "consensus" is that the Shorai is not a good battery for the DR, at least not for serious off road.
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Old 04-05-2013, 06:46 PM   #75508
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Reminds me of primer grey! I do like it in person though.
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Old 04-05-2013, 07:06 PM   #75509
dutch97501
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So Ive had a DR650 for a few years now. I put a RM250 front end on it and had the shock redone. Bigger tank and wolfman luggage and a concept seat. The only mod I havent done is a pumper carb. I live about 20 miles from Jessi at kientech and he has new pumper carbs in stock. The bike runs great and will handle most of what I throw at it. I miss the snap that a dual overhead cam motor has to offer. Would a pumper carb over come this or would I be better off with a more modern bike?
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Old 04-05-2013, 08:16 PM   #75510
Kommando
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Originally Posted by dutch97501 View Post
So Ive had a DR650 for a few years now. I put a RM250 front end on it and had the shock redone. Bigger tank and wolfman luggage and a concept seat. The only mod I havent done is a pumper carb. I live about 20 miles from Jessi at kientech and he has new pumper carbs in stock. The bike runs great and will handle most of what I throw at it. I miss the snap that a dual overhead cam motor has to offer. Would a pumper carb over come this or would I be better off with a more modern bike?
A pumper carb gives better throttle response and low-RPM luggability than the typical CV carb.

There are now all kinds of things you can do to a DR motor. I'd talk to Jeff at www.procycle.us about high-compression and big-bore pistons, aggressive cams, and big-valve heads. Talk to Kientech and MX Rob about exhausts, EFI, and iridium sparkplugs. 14/42 sprockets will also give you a bit more grunt than stock.

What exactly do you want the motor to do differently?
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