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Old 04-07-2013, 05:26 AM   #75526
lonewolf97
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Ok
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Old 04-07-2013, 05:31 AM   #75527
lonewolf97
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Fixing flats ain't a problem. Just ride with a guy that has a
sears toolbox mounted on his bike. he changed the tube in no time.

That is a great idea. No more tubes.


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Old 04-07-2013, 05:41 AM   #75528
lonewolf97
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I have a question. Pretty sure my problem is old valve seals.
My 97 dr650 with 10,000 miles is blowing oil smoke on start up after sitting a day or so. Stops after a few minutes.
Mech wants to do a top end rebuild. Says he will find the cylinder bore egged. Engine still runs great. All I want to do is replace the seals.


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Old 04-07-2013, 06:45 AM   #75529
thump!
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lonewolf97 View Post
I have a question. Pretty sure my problem is old valve seals.
My 97 dr650 with 10,000 miles is blowing oil smoke on start up after sitting a day or so. Stops after a few minutes.
Mech wants to do a top end rebuild. Says he will find the cylinder bore egged. Engine still runs great. All I want to do is replace the seals.


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Mine does that too sometimes (@38K miles) but it doesn't use any significant amount of oil and runs well. I'm just not going to worry about it until it gets a LOT worse.
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Old 04-07-2013, 07:00 AM   #75530
Albie
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Location: Upstate SC
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sandwash View Post
At least 90% or more who changed out to a pumper carb would disagree with this statement.I may have lost 5 mph,but the fun factor out ways that big time.It all depends on where and how you ride.It's the way the fuel is delivered.Nothing wrong with stock,but most us just can't leave things alone.It makes the DR motor run like it should.People who have bad mileage have poorly jetted/setup carbs.Talk to the people with the Dyno Jet kit who get crappy mileage,it's over jetted. Stock HP is 34-36,with the mods about you are close to 40.HP cost money,If that is you want to do.And it runs a hole lot better.And you don't have to spend 700$ if you do it right.
Stock cark/Dyno Jet vs Pumper is apples and oranges,for me how and where I ride it well worth it.
My FCR-MX DIYwas right around 200$ installed and running.Exhaust:35FO,mid-pipe and flange right at 200$.Took some time ,but then again I am a cheap/poor bastard.
I'm obviously in the 10% crowd. I've got a DR with a pumper carb, full FMF exhaust, opened air box, and also have a buddy's DR sitting in my garage that has NONE of the mods. There is a small bit of difference, but nothing to get excited over. If I hadn't bought my DR with all those mods I honestly wouldn't bother doing it. I have to say my view of it all is a bit tainted since I also own a KTM 690. Were tallking a bike that has 15 more HP and weighs 50 lbs less. The DR is not even in the same ball park as the 690. Hell, it's not even in the same zip code.
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Old 04-07-2013, 07:04 AM   #75531
Albie
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lonewolf97 View Post
I have a question. Pretty sure my problem is old valve seals.
My 97 dr650 with 10,000 miles is blowing oil smoke on start up after sitting a day or so. Stops after a few minutes.
Mech wants to do a top end rebuild. Says he will find the cylinder bore egged. Engine still runs great. All I want to do is replace the seals.


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Replacing the seals is cheap, doing a top end isn't. At 10K miles, unless you are banging off the rev limiter all the time I seriously doubt you need to do a top end.
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Old 04-07-2013, 07:07 AM   #75532
nsrrider
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dutch97501 View Post
So Ive had a DR650 for a few years now. I put a RM250 front end on it and had the shock redone. Bigger tank and wolfman luggage and a concept seat. The only mod I havent done is a pumper carb. I live about 20 miles from Jessi at kientech and he has new pumper carbs in stock. The bike runs great and will handle most of what I throw at it. I miss the snap that a dual overhead cam motor has to offer. Would a pumper carb over come this or would I be better off with a more modern bike?
I did the pumper and full header before installing a H/C piston and stage 1 cam......I thought the first mods made a dramatic improvement in every regard, including a slight improvement in MPG......the 2nd level mods made another nice improvement, and MPG has been incredible (about 52 MPG running the piss out of it)
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Old 04-07-2013, 07:14 AM   #75533
Rusty Rocket
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Location: Northcentral CT
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lonewolf97 View Post
I have a question. Pretty sure my problem is old valve seals.
My 97 dr650 with 10,000 miles is blowing oil smoke on start up after sitting a day or so. Stops after a few minutes.
Mech wants to do a top end rebuild. Says he will find the cylinder bore egged. Engine still runs great. All I want to do is replace the seals.


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My '96 w/ 20K miles on it does the same thing. I've made peace with the fact. I just run it. I figure throwing money at a 17 year old bike that only has a liitle ache first thing in the morning isn't really worth doing.

I figure if it gets bad enough, I can buy a low mileage 2005 for $3000 and put my suspension, skidplate and seat on it and sell the old one for $1500 and never loose a days riding.
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Old 04-07-2013, 07:24 AM   #75534
DockingPilot
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Originally Posted by Albie View Post
I also own a KTM 690. Were tallking a bike that has 15 more HP and weighs 50 lbs less. The DR is not even in the same ball park as the 690. Hell, it's not even in the same zip code.
My buddy has a 08 690 as well and my DR is never in the same zip code as his either. My DR is usually 2 zip codes farther down the road simply because that 690 is plagued with gremlins
Lol




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Old 04-07-2013, 07:24 AM   #75535
RichBeBe
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Mine is pretty bad, so I decided to do something about it/ The gasket kit and seals came on Friday and the pistons should be here one day this week. I am only doing the piston because I will be in there and it cost me very little. I worked for a JE distributor for a long time and the piston is costing me less than dealer cost. Since I will be in there anyway it very little to the labor. I figure a couple of hours one night this week and no more smoke and a hi-comp piston, seems like a no brainer for little money.
Decided to edit the price out
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Old 04-07-2013, 07:56 AM   #75536
Moore
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Originally Posted by DockingPilot View Post
My buddy has a 08 690 as well and my DR is never in the same zip code as his either. My DR is usually 2 zip codes farther down the road simply because that 690 is plagued with gremlins
Lol
Haha nice one. Slow and steady wins the race! DockingPilot, I just read your AWESOME ride report from your trip up here a few years ago. Didn't know you converted to a DR!
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Old 04-07-2013, 08:06 AM   #75537
rch10007
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Has anyone used silicon or sealant to seal the inside of the wheel so that if you did get a flat, it would slow the air leaking from the tube? Kinda like trying to make a tubeless setup but still using the tube?

Just wondering if anyone has went through the trouble of doing so...been thinking about sealing mine the next time I change tubes and tires, which are in my garage waiting.
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Old 04-07-2013, 08:18 AM   #75538
Rusty Rocket
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rch10007 View Post
Has anyone used silicon or sealant to seal the inside of the wheel so that if you did get a flat, it would slow the air leaking from the tube? Kinda like trying to make a tubeless setup but still using the tube?

Just wondering if anyone has went through the trouble of doing so...been thinking about sealing mine the next time I change tubes and tires, which are in my garage waiting.
Probably wouldn't help much, unless you have a tubless type tire. Tube type tires don't seal as well to the rim.
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Old 04-07-2013, 08:39 AM   #75539
Albie
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DockingPilot View Post
My buddy has a 08 690 as well and my DR is never in the same zip code as his either. My DR is usually 2 zip codes farther down the road simply because that 690 is plagued with gremlins
Lol




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Keep holding on to that fantasy, I'm sure it makes swallowing the bile easier.
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Old 04-07-2013, 10:15 AM   #75540
Emmbeedee
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Another broken top roller... on my '96.



It didn't tear a huge chunk out, fortunately. Mostly just the nut itself.
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