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Old 04-16-2013, 09:39 AM   #75841
Adv Grifter
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Joined: Jan 2010
Location: Passing ADV Stalkers in California
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crazy88 View Post
Hello all, I be a resident noob looking for mechanical advice.

So I've been putting this off, I know I need new back brakes, so I've just sort of been relying on the front ones solely for a couple months now. Now the front disc (over which I believe the brakes actually apply pressure to to stop) has started rubbing against the brakes (I believe) when not actually braking.

I don't really feel any difference in the riding or coasting, but it makes an annoying light screech sound so I thought: hey, why not just put some chain lube up in that bitch? Turns out that was stupid, the noise went away but now the brakes are weaker for it, and the front disc is still real hot to the touch after a couple minutes riding. Am I doomed to replace my brakes at this juncture (about 10k miles), or can I loosen that front component to widen the gap in the brakes a bit?

Show me the error of my ways, for I am young and inexperienced in the zen of maintenance.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mongle View Post
I'm not trying to pick on you but, if you oiled your brakes...you don't need to own wrenches. Take it to someone who knows what they are doing. Brakes are important- life saving devices.

If you really want to start working on your stuff I suggest starting with some community college classes in auto repair. Get the basics down then start tinkering.
Good advice above. Learning how things work will pay off big dividends down the road.

Here is a few very basic things to start with:
Remove brake pads, throw away.
Clean area around caliper pistons. Make sure they are moving freely.
Clean ALL oil off everything ... needs to be spotless.
Clean brake rotor (disc) with Brake Clean or other spirit. Go over it with
steel wool.
Install new brake pads (get help with this part)
Flush all old brake fluid OUT of system, adding new fluid from unopened
container, do not let any air into system. Break in new brakes lightly for first 50 miles. Do NOT over heat your new brakes.

Repeat this procedure on rear brake. Good luck.
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Old 04-16-2013, 09:40 AM   #75842
mary
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Location: Jax, Florida
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mongle View Post
I'm not trying to pick on you but, if you oiled your brakes...you don't need to own wrenches. Take it to someone who knows what they are doing. Brakes are important- life saving devices.

If you really want to start working on your stuff I suggest starting with some community college classes in auto repair. Get the basics down then start tinkering.
I'm soooo sorry... but I can't stop laughing... (tears streaming down my cheeks).... we all gotta start somewhere I guess.

glad the kid didn't get himself killed...
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Old 04-16-2013, 09:48 AM   #75843
crazy88
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Brake Issues

Thanks all, will do the above. Rotors look ok, no grooves or anything in em. Off to get new pads on now.
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Old 04-16-2013, 10:36 AM   #75844
Kommando
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Location: Spacecoaster FL
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Quote:
Originally Posted by acesandeights View Post
I would like significantly more light. I've considered aux lighting, but it seems a significant improvement in the headlight is probably the best bang for the buck. Am I wrong? There are a few lights out there and sure as sh8t I can't remember the brands I had considered, Trailtech was one, I think Baja Designs the other.

What say the collective wisdom, aux lighting or put that same money into a dedicated headlight with significantly more output?
HID headlight saves approximately 20W and is really freakin' bright. 1157 reflector LED unit from www.superbrightleds.com, that flashes 3x before going solid, makes your DR more noticeable and saves some more wattage. You can also replace your license illumination bulb, your neutral dash indicator bulb, and your high-beam dash indicator bulb with LED units, to save even a bit more wattage. See Mx Rob's writeup link from the DR650 wiki page.

For even more light, several LED driving lights are now on the market. They typically use much less wattage than incandescent/halogen driving lights.
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Old 04-16-2013, 12:52 PM   #75845
bluegroove
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Something to consider when trying to save watts: The bulbs that are actually ON all the time are what matters most. Headlight and taillight. The others don't matter so much because they are on for such a tiny amount of time.
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Old 04-16-2013, 01:15 PM   #75846
ER70S-2
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Joined: Sep 2009
Location: SE Denver-ish
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Quote:
Originally Posted by acesandeights View Post
I would like significantly more light. I've considered aux lighting, but it seems a significant improvement in the headlight is probably the best bang for the buck. Am I wrong? There are a few lights out there and sure as sh8t I can't remember the brands I had considered, Trailtech was one, I think Baja Designs the other.

What say the collective wisdom, aux lighting or put that same money into a dedicated headlight with significantly more output?
Lots of ideas here,
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=635694

particularly ADV Grifter's post #35.
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showp...8&postcount=35
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Originally Posted by Threewheelbonnie View Post
"BTW, I don't do style. It's a dirt bike, not some girlie dress-up thing." -
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Old 04-16-2013, 03:27 PM   #75847
Kommando
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bluegroove View Post
Something to consider when trying to save watts: The bulbs that are actually ON all the time are what matters most. Headlight and taillight. The others don't matter so much because they are on for such a tiny amount of time.
True. That's why I didn't mention signals, although I converted my front signals to dual-filament units, so I use LEDs there too. The dash indicators mentioned can be on for long periods of time, BTW, depending on circumstances. The license illumination is on constantly as well. I did forget to mention the speedo illumination bulb too. I replaced mine with a red LED. 'Ambience, and all that.

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Old 04-16-2013, 11:12 PM   #75848
LexTalionis
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Location: San Jose, CA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Albie View Post
I am amazed at my gas milage consistency on my DR. I ride it hard I ge† 40 MPG, I ride it easy I get 40 MPG, I throw on a Givi topbox that I used to use on my Strom, which would drop the mileage on that bike about 3 MPG. But on my DR, I still get 40 MPG. What an odd bike.
Maybe, your mileage is so consistent because you're getting 20% less mpg than most riders of DRs?

Lex
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Old 04-16-2013, 11:13 PM   #75849
LexTalionis
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Location: San Jose, CA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crazy88 View Post
Hello all, I be a resident noob looking for mechanical advice.

So I've been putting this off, I know I need new back brakes, so I've just sort of been relying on the front ones solely for a couple months now. Now the front disc (over which I believe the brakes actually apply pressure to to stop) has started rubbing against the brakes (I believe) when not actually braking.

I don't really feel any difference in the riding or coasting, but it makes an annoying light screech sound so I thought: hey, why not just put some chain lube up in that bitch? Turns out that was stupid, the noise went away but now the brakes are weaker for it, and the front disc is still real hot to the touch after a couple minutes riding. Am I doomed to replace my brakes at this juncture (about 10k miles), or can I loosen that front component to widen the gap in the brakes a bit?

Show me the error of my ways, for I am young and inexperienced in the zen of maintenance.
My immediate thought was this is a troll.

Lex
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Old 04-17-2013, 05:15 AM   #75850
french horn
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Joined: Sep 2007
Location: Bundaberg Qld. Australia
Oddometer: 475
Been a while since I've posted anything, so I figured y'all might like a coupla pix from the ride this week, using my latest build ... luggage.... hope you like it.


.


.

For scale purposes, the top case is 35 litres.

The bags are MIL SPEC ...
The rack system is removable in less than a minute without tools ...
was a challenge to build but works a treat.

cheers
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Old 04-17-2013, 05:22 AM   #75851
mary
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What a GREAT idea! Spent 15 years in the Army and never thought to use ruck sacks on my bike like that. May have to buy another set.
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Old 04-17-2013, 05:47 AM   #75852
SCExpat
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Joined: Dec 2009
Location: Caldwell, ID
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crazy88 View Post
Thanks all, will do the above. Rotors look ok, no grooves or anything in em. Off to get new pads on now.
Go to the regional forum and see if you can find some FF'r to lend a hand. It is not a difficult job if you have done it before but without experience it can seem very challenging. Offer up some beers and you can get someone to help with this job and learn a few pointers.

Good luck.
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Old 04-17-2013, 07:14 AM   #75853
inroads
Wimberley,Texas
 
Joined: Feb 2010
Oddometer: 288
fork pre-load spacers

I'm gonna insert a 3/4" pvc spacer along with the stock spacer on top of the fork springs for some cheapo fork anti-dive.
Anyone try this or have thoughts on it?
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Old 04-17-2013, 07:41 AM   #75854
Albie
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Location: NWA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LexTalionis View Post
Maybe, your mileage is so consistent because you're getting 20% less mpg than most riders of DRs?

Lex
Hell I get 50-75% less tire life then most DR owners as well.
None of my bikes ever get the mileage everyone else gets. I'm used to it. My buddies DR gets 45 if ridden like a pansy, but drops down to 36 if ridden normal. It's bone stock. It doesn't matter which one of us rides it either.

On the Strom, I would get around 47 without the luggage, 43 with the Jesse bags, add the top case and it dropped down to 40. All my other bikes get VARIED mileage depending on how I set em up or ride them. My 690 gets as good as 50 MPG if I ride it easy, but gets 32 if I ride the piss out of it.
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Old 04-17-2013, 08:48 AM   #75855
Emmbeedee
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Joined: Mar 2008
Location: Near Ottawa, ON, Canada
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Quote:
Originally Posted by inroads View Post
I'm gonna insert a 3/4" pvc spacer along with the stock spacer on top of the fork springs for some cheapo fork anti-dive.
Anyone try this or have thoughts on it?
Heave the stock spacers and just put longer spacers of a lighter material. The stock spacers weigh about 5 pounds each.

I found ABS nipples like this in a couple of different lengths at Home Depot for a couple of bucks each.

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