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Old 04-24-2013, 11:46 AM   #76051
procycle
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bobzilla View Post
Is there any down side to completely removing the neutral switch? I have ridden dirt bikes my whole life and dont need a switch to tell me its in gear or not.
Probably some loss in resale value. A potential future buyer may think of a non-working neutral light as something that would have to be fixed by a shop.
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Old 04-24-2013, 01:04 PM   #76052
NC Rick
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Joined: Aug 2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by procycle View Post
The Mojave shock has adjustable rebound damping but the compression damping is fixed. There is no prevision to adjust the compression but it could be changed by altering the valve shim stack. This is pretty common for non-reservoir shocks as there is no place to actually put the compression adjuster. The internals are the same as Cogent's 'shock shaft assembly". It's the same stuff that Cogent puts inside their reworked shocks (which ProCycle has also).
Our Mojave shock is an all new full replacement shock and as Procycle said, since the reservoir is built into the main shock body, it isn't practical to include an external compression adjustment. Please note that the compression adjuster on the OEM shock has VERY, VERY limited effect on the stock OEM shock. The Rebound damping adjuster on the Mojave is a red anodized CNC'd thumb knob that gives the rider a very meaningful range of damper adjustment allowing him or her to match spring rates, loads and riding preferences. The type of adjuster included on the Mojave is a costly and parts intensive mechanical system that is standard equipment on high end shocks. The cost of implementation is why the OEM shock is lacking the facility. The internal valve stack is optomised for the bike as well as the shocks design. As pointed out, The Cogent Dynamics Mojave its a fully serviceable and revalvable shock.
I hope this answers the question. We think the high quality Mojave replacement shock for the DR with be a perfect match for many riders.

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Old 04-24-2013, 02:39 PM   #76053
TRAVELGUY
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Sargent Seat

Just listed a DR650 Sargent seat in the flea market.

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Old 04-24-2013, 02:44 PM   #76054
NordieBoy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bross View Post
Some of us don't think it's necessary, and here's info for the leave it alone crowd.

http://www.topgunmotorcycles.com/cp_...e/cpnov06.html
http://www.topgunmotorcycles.com/cp_...e/cpaug07.html
And those of us that have had it rip out, leaving a large hole in the frame, say remove it.
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Old 04-24-2013, 02:47 PM   #76055
NordieBoy
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Originally Posted by mill View Post
The neutral switch he is referring to is the neutral safety switch, and has no effect on the indicator light. This switch is only to prohibit the bike from starting if it is in gear and the clutch safety switch is not engaged.
He's referring to the nsu unit. Which does control the light.
Not the side stand, or clutch switches.

There is no other neutral switch.
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Old 04-24-2013, 03:09 PM   #76056
mill
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NordieBoy View Post
He's referring to the nsu unit. Which does control the light.
Not the side stand, or clutch switches.

There is no other neutral switch.
Haha!!! I knew I was wrong right after I posted next time just tell me to STFU!!!
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Old 04-24-2013, 03:17 PM   #76057
Albie
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mill View Post
The neutral switch he is referring to is the neutral safety switch, and has no effect on the indicator light. This switch is only to prohibit the bike from starting if it is in gear and the clutch safety switch is not engaged.
Pretty sure he is talking about the NSU, and it does very much have an effect on the neutral light. Granted, NSU means neutral sending unit, but aside from yourself, the rest of us knew what he meant.
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Old 04-24-2013, 03:24 PM   #76058
FuzzyNugs
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 8gv View Post
As far as jumping a DR650 goes...

I have been getting pretty good at jumping on top of my bike as it tries to crush me. That is on a KLR250. I believe this to be an even more important skill for a heavier bike. I've never been too proud to abandon ship when needed.

Intentionally jumping it?
Who said the DR can't fly?
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Old 04-24-2013, 03:27 PM   #76059
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Old 04-24-2013, 03:28 PM   #76060
bross
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Originally Posted by FuzzyNugs View Post
Who said the DR can't fly?
Flying's one thing, landings another.
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Old 04-24-2013, 03:59 PM   #76061
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I have Race Tech .7 springs in the front with emulators and a Race Tech Shock Shaft Assembly with 8.1 spring in the rear. The DR lands pretty nice (on the small jumps I've done). Very smooth.
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Old 04-24-2013, 04:03 PM   #76062
BergDonk
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NordieBoy View Post
And those of us that have had it rip out, leaving a large hole in the frame, say remove it.
I thought it was all related to a too tight chain. After I ripped mine out, I now know otherwise. I replaced mine, but up and forward a bit, and with a brace under the bolt head up to the cross member. No issues now for 40k +


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Old 04-24-2013, 04:22 PM   #76063
PPCLI-Jim
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bross View Post
Flying's one thing, landings another.
tell me about it the Subframe crossmember that my rack bolts to snapped . I got a piece of 1/4 x 1 1/2 flatstock that I am replacing it with not gonna have any issues with it in the future.
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Old 04-24-2013, 04:45 PM   #76064
NordieBoy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BergDonk View Post
I thought it was all related to a too tight chain. After I ripped mine out, I now know otherwise. I replaced mine, but up and forward a bit, and with a brace under the bolt head up to the cross member. No issues now for 40k +
Yep, nothing to do with a too tight chain.
Looks like your roller still gets quite a bit of a workout.

Mine has been removed for 100,000km now.
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Old 04-24-2013, 05:22 PM   #76065
Foot dragger
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NordieBoy View Post
Yep, nothing to do with a too tight chain.
Looks like your roller still gets quite a bit of a workout.

Mine has been removed for 100,000km now.
How many times will this come around I wonder? If it's nothing to do with too tight a chain,then what pulls the roller out of the frame? Gravity?
I know many of you are new to bikes and adjusting things but....

Take the shock off the bike,let the rear end drop through it's travel and watch where the chain goes in relation to the roller when the chain is too tight.
The chain will hang up and pull real hard on that roller,Ive tried it.

Chain properly adjusted and it wont,its real easy to get the chain too tight with the cheapo snail adjusters.

This isnt hearsay or me wondering about it,its what happens in real life/real time,the top roller on my bike is fine after 26000 miles of lots of off road beatings.

But if you think that roller pops out of the frame because it get's tired and just cant hang on anymore,that's fine also.

(Many folks think they're adjusting their chain just right keeping it snugged up,not always so)
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