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Old 04-28-2013, 06:44 AM   #76216
deathu
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dentedvw View Post
On the exhaust can it reads: SUZUKI 40F0, then e4 under that. Most of the evidence (black junk) points to leaking out the connection from the can to the pipe. So, I pulled it apart, and there is a fair gap there, no gasket at all. Is there supposed to be one at the can? Can I make one from some goop from NAPA? Cut one down from something else?
It's enormously loud, something I was hoping not to deal with on another bike, it's one of the reasons I stopped riding my DRZ on the freeway, it's got a Yoshi exhaust. Deafening.

At least I didn't find a bashed up frame.
The 40F0 is the OEM muffler from the 01-02 GSXR1000, the best option to fit on a DR650 IMO. You are supposed to have a gasket between the midpipe and the muffler, and the midpipe is supposed to protrude about half an inch inside the muffler (the midpipe should not end at the flange level) - check this thread for some photos of how the midpipe should look like.

This is definitely not loud (but not quiet either) on a DR650. I suppose yours is so loud because of the escaping gases at the joint...
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Old 04-28-2013, 07:11 AM   #76217
thump!
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Albie View Post
Nothing would come of it, they'll simply see it as a civil matter. Small claims court would be the best route to go.
Exactly. However, you'll have to document the extent of your damages or loss even there. This kind of thing happens all the time with private sales of used vehicles. The seller will likely claim he was not aware of the problem, hence no criminal intent, and the judge will likely order a cash settlement to the injured buyer. The question is how much is it worth.
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Old 04-28-2013, 08:15 AM   #76218
BadDogMax
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blackcap View Post
be careful checking the rest of the frame for damage. this photo looks like youve got some more damage just forward of the engine mounting. the disturbed paint is a good sign that there has been some movement there. if it were me id be checking the frame as best you can for straightness in every possible dimension you can think of starting with whats already been suggested here. if you happy with the handling and get the bars straightened up (its pretty common for DRs to have bars out of alignment, even after a light drop on the trail) id be marking out all the points on the frame that have the paint either cracked or "bubbled" like in this photo and getting a professional welder to cut those areas out and do a good job welding in some new sections of pipework. you should be able to get that mangled section of spine cut out completely and a new section welded into place. then either paint over the new parts or get the whole thing powdercoated again. or just buy a new frame if its cheaper.
If it were me I'd probably do this (have some gussets welded on to the damaged areas, repaint, and just ride it). You can't really sell it and if it rides OK then why not?

As a kid I broke the steering head away from the frame on an XR75. My neighbor and I had an epic jump that we would challenge each other on, and suddenly on a landing my bike turned into a chopper. The front wheel went way forward and the engine case hit the dirt, throwing me over the handlebars.

After welding some gussets on either side of the break the bike lived to jump another day.

After the repair, on another jump I broke the shocks from being bottomed so hard, but the frame repair showed no signs of cracking (I checked it frequently though - I was definitely leery of another insta-chopper transformation and resulting crash).
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Old 04-28-2013, 08:39 AM   #76219
mega-hertz
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stripped screws!!!

i can't get the screws loose on my carb's float bowl or the throtler cable braket. i might have to drill them out today. dose anybody know what size they are so i can buy them before i get started, i'm going to go get an impact driver today and i would like to replace them with some hard steal screws.
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Old 04-28-2013, 09:13 AM   #76220
acesandeights
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crash alot View Post
pulling the bike apart to put on acerbiz tank and another 1000.00 of goodies, anyway this is the back bone on my frame, does this look right? I think its been wrecked, it seems to ride ok, however I did think the bars were just a little bent.




I used to work as an insurance adjuster handling motorcycle claims for the largest insurer of motorcycles. That is a total loss (in my state and per the company I worked for) and should have a salvage title. Any marks on the forks you see isn't related. The forks involved in the accident would have been unusable. This could really open a can of worms depending on whether you financed this bike or what kind of insurance you have on the bike.

My guess is the original owner totaled it, the second owner buys salvaged vehicles and reconstructs them and that's what happened here. The original owner probably got in the accident, the insurance company totaled the bike and sold it to a salvage yard or salvage buyer that straightened the frame and put a set of used forks, wheel, etc from another salvaged bike. In my state the title would show it was salvage or reconstructed. Going forward, you should really disclose this damage to any new buyer and it would cut the value...probably in half, as the appropriate repair for that is a new frame. Sorry.
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Old 04-28-2013, 09:45 AM   #76221
Davis53
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mega-hertz View Post
i can't get the screws loose on my carb's float bowl or the throtler cable braket. i might have to drill them out today. dose anybody know what size they are so i can buy them before i get started, i'm going to go get an impact driver today and i would like to replace them with some hard steal screws.
Grab them with some small vice grips, straight on. You need to take the carb off to do this.
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Old 04-28-2013, 09:54 AM   #76222
PPCLI-Jim
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Quote:
Originally Posted by acesandeights View Post
I used to work as an insurance adjuster handling motorcycle claims for the largest insurer of motorcycles. That is a total loss (in my state and per the company I worked for) and should have a salvage title. Any marks on the forks you see isn't related. The forks involved in the accident would have been unusable. This could really open a can of worms depending on whether you financed this bike or what kind of insurance you have on the bike.

My guess is the original owner totaled it, the second owner buys salvaged vehicles and reconstructs them and that's what happened here. The original owner probably got in the accident, the insurance company totaled the bike and sold it to a salvage yard or salvage buyer that straightened the frame and put a set of used forks, wheel, etc from another salvaged bike. In my state the title would show it was salvage or reconstructed. Going forward, you should really disclose this damage to any new buyer and it would cut the value...probably in half, as the appropriate repair for that is a new frame. Sorry.
I agree that frame is good to be cut into pieces and thats it, that sort of bend means SERIOUS torque has been applied
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Old 04-28-2013, 11:21 AM   #76223
Adv Grifter
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Some interesting comments about the Bent frame. Shame.
But there are specialists who can straighten frames properly. We have a guy out here in Sacramento, California called The Frame Man. He mostly straightens bent race bikes. Impressive results.

Using Laser alignment, specialized Jigs and hydraulic presses ... those guys have straightened up hundreds of wasted bikes. These specialists are rare, no idea if the OP has any such shops in his region, but might be worth it to look around.

In normal circumstances ... as mentioned ... that frame would be junked. But if the buyer is over a barrel money wise, then straightening might be solution?

If the steering is off it could be simply tweaked forks (easily fixed in 5 minutes) or tweaked rubber dampers below the bar mounts on top triple clamp. Also easy fix ... just push them the opposite way. Bent bars are rare
but with the crash that bike was in, certainly possible. Bars are cheap.
Replace if needed.

If after the forks are straightened (just loosen clamps and tighten back up) and bars are straight in dampers, the bike still is "off" when riding, then its likely the FRAME is not straight.

Weird handling is the other obvious tell tale. Handling should be 100%
neutral. If not ?? ... well, do what you can to fix it.
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Old 04-28-2013, 12:34 PM   #76224
Kommando
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crash alot View Post
thanks for the picture jaglite...

I guess I should have pulled the tank off before I bought this....but who does that. im just too trusting, no one to blame but me. I could post the dudes name and address who I bought it from, but he was the second owner. however, he wont return my text message.

there was a dent in stock tank and some markes on the fforks , like a low side, but the tank does not represent a crushed frame. and I did fell as if the bars were bent just a tad, so its all my fault I guess. the bike only has 3700miles on it and its a 2011.....but that may not be the actual speed o after seeing this .

motor mounts look new and no cracks in any welds, however the rubber mounts for the tank are off kilter a little. the acerbiz seems like it would stay on when bolted down, I cant lift it off the front.

ive ordered all the good stuff from procycle, jet kit, k&n, pro taper adaptors, full header, dr 250 tail kit, gold valve , heaver springs, pat walsh skid, pat walsh rear rack, extreame spot lights, not to mention protaper bars, gixer pipe with mid pipe, happy trails panniers...it was going to be a nice DR..

I may continue on, gotta sleep on it. thanks for all the replies. heres a shot with a straight edge down the center of frame, it seems to line up with the center of the steering head, but im far from being a frame guy or mechanic.
An insurance company would total that bike, but most people can't get welding/fabricating done for cheap. If you can, that frame can be repaired as good as new. One can cut the tweaked tubes out and weld in new ones. That's the only fix on that frame that I'd trust that wouldn't look like a$$ (like welding sleeves/gussets over tweaked areas would). You can't trust frames that have been bent like that and then half-a$$ straightened. Tiny cracks and brittle areas develop.

I hope you didn't pay much, and that you know a good welder/fabricator. Otherwise, replace that frame or part out the bike.
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Old 04-28-2013, 01:05 PM   #76225
TrophyHunter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Albie View Post
Nothing would come of it, they'll simply see it as a civil matter. Small claims court would be the best route to go.
You're probably right on this one but there are criminal statutes in CA. "Theft by deception" basically lying / omitting facts about the product that would reduce it's value. There are also consumer laws that come into play but I'm not sure you could hold them against a non-commercial entity.

That's why I suggested some research on the seller. As mentioned, if they're a "salvage buyer/refurbisher" then they would be subject to consumer laws and in CA they'd have to be licensed by the DMV for that activity.

Best of luck with the fix.
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Old 04-28-2013, 01:12 PM   #76226
Motodeficient
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mega-hertz View Post
i can't get the screws loose on my carb's float bowl or the throtler cable braket. i might have to drill them out today. dose anybody know what size they are so i can buy them before i get started, i'm going to go get an impact driver today and i would like to replace them with some hard steal screws.
That happened on my stock carb. I got the dremel out ant turned the screws into slotted screws instead of philips screws.
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Old 04-28-2013, 01:22 PM   #76227
acesandeights
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Frames can be straightened, and that one was. You can see it was clamped and pulled. Whoever had that bike repaired the damage from the accident to make it straight (or at least close), but bike frames are not like car frames. They don't have crumple zones and sectioning specs like cars do. Bike frames are not meant to be straightened, they are meant to be replaced, and in most places that means a salvaged title associated with that VIN, and significantly decreased value. As someone else posted, it also appears to have damage in other parts of the frame. That frame has been repaired, and you can see by the repair it still needs to be replaced.
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Old 04-28-2013, 03:41 PM   #76228
JagLite
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Pissed Wrecked DR deal

Quote:
Originally Posted by crash alot View Post
t

I guess I should have pulled the tank off before I bought this....but who does that. im just too trusting, no one to blame but me.
Not at all!

We know who is to blame.

I would never have thought to pull the tank either UNLESS it was disclosed that the bike had been wrecked and/or was on a rebuilt title.
It is fraud to sell something like this without disclosure.
That is something you could tell the seller if you want out.


motor mounts look new and no cracks in any welds, however the rubber mounts for the tank are off kilter a little. the acerbiz seems like it would stay on when bolted down, I cant lift it off the front.

ive ordered all the good stuff from procycle, jet kit, k&n, pro taper adaptors, full header, dr 250 tail kit, gold valve , heaver springs, pat walsh skid, pat walsh rear rack, extreame spot lights, not to mention protaper bars, gixer pipe with mid pipe, happy trails panniers...it was going to be a nice DR..

I may continue on, gotta sleep on it. thanks for all the replies. heres a shot with a straight edge down the center of frame, it seems to line up with the center of the steering head, but im far from being a frame guy or mechanic.



This picture and the comments of others brings into question the engine mounts even more. Remove one engine mount bolt at a time and see if the bolts all slide in and out easily. IF the frame is bent and is putting stress on one or more of the engine mounts, the bolt will be jammed in place and under tension. NOT acceptable.

That would mean that the engine is holding the frame in shape and that can lead to the stresses on the aluminum engine case mounts could crack the cases over time and vibration.

All the great stuff you have bought will transfer to any DR so that is not lost money.

As mentioned by others, a crash that could bend a frame like that would have destroyed the forks and front wheel also so those parts, and probably the triple clamps too, have been replaced. Most likely from another crashed DR.

If you got a super good deal on the bike it MIGHT be worth keeping.
On the other hand, there are a lot of very good used DR's for sale.

You could send him a text that you want to give him an opportunity to make things right BEFORE you go to the Police and report him for FRAUD and go to the DMV to alert them of a suspicious seller of damaged (unsafe) vehicles.

If he is innocent of knowing about the damage, he will give you your money back.
If he is guilty, he will WANT to give you back your money to keep the Police from knocking on his door.

Keep in mind also that you will NOT be able to sell that bike for what you have in it. Not even close.

You could go visit the Police and, keeping the seller's name out, discuss what they recommend you do to get your money back.
I had a "situation" and after talking with a nice lady cop she offered to accompany me. That made a big difference.
The advice "talk softly and carry a big stick" came to mind.
No charges made, no problem for anyone, but the other person knew he was now on the Police radar.

Just a few more thoughts for your rotten situation.
we want to help any way we can...
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Old 04-28-2013, 04:40 PM   #76229
BergDonk
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jammin View Post
Just realized that when I did my valve check in Cape Town, before putting the bike in a crate for her sea voyage to India, I messed up with the feeler gauges. Instead of using the 0.10 mm (middle of tolerance) for the intake valves, I used the 0.010" = 0.25 mm gauge. Bike starts up easily and runs well, did a 60 mile ride so far but valves sound loud.

I would just go back and redo the valve check but in Cape Town the crankshaft cap got stripped. I got it to TDC by spinning the rear wheel in gear.

I'm just about to set off on a tour around India on Tuesday. How critical is it to redo the valve clearance or can I leave it as it is? Intake valves tighten up over time, right? If I leave it at 0.25 mm instead of 0.10mm, am I doing any damage?
They are a fair bit loose and will hammer the tappet screws and valve stems more as a result. Will it cause any damage, dunno. But revving it will make it worse.

I did the valves on a mates bike the other day. We suspect it was the first time they'd been looked at at 20,000 kms. The inlets were both loose and needed tightening up, and 1 exhaust was loose too. Much quieter now. Were they originally this loose, or did they loosen over time, dunno.

FWIW, I posted this a while back, its how I do the valves:
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showp...&postcount=371
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Old 04-28-2013, 04:58 PM   #76230
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Jay:
No one has mentioned the acceleration and deceleration ramps on the cam lobes. They're cut to lift and close the valves gently. If your clearances are too loose, the valves are getting slammed open and dropped shut. I'd redo them.
I wish I was there and you were here.
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