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Old 05-03-2013, 01:31 PM   #76321
Adv Grifter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Porky View Post
I have a Corbin seat that has been modified to add a gel pad. I find the foam on the Corbin (even with the gel pad) to be as hard as a rock.
How does the Corbin compare with the Sargent seat in terms of comfort and foam hardness?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mongle View Post
When I first got my Corbin I felt how hard it was and thought "this thing isn't going to be any better". But, even being "firm" I couldn't believe the difference from the stock one.

I just bought a Vulcan Nomad that had a Corbin on it also, it feels like a rock but I just did 900 miles in two days on it and was again surprised at the comfort.
Mongle's got it right. The Corbin is very firm but it just flat WORKS. I'm guessing that inserting a GEL pad will RUIN the seat's function ... and burn your butt once it sits in the Sun too long (serious)

Sargent seats have a good rep too, many happy DR riders here. I'm happy with my Corbin and can string 400 mile days, back to back. Nice.
Corbin's designs come from Mexican Horse saddle makers ... not much padding on a horse saddle. (100% Mexican workers make Corbin seats)
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Old 05-03-2013, 02:44 PM   #76322
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Speaking of which - just how bad an idea would it be to have Corbin cover a DR650 saddle with real leather instead of vynil?
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Old 05-03-2013, 02:49 PM   #76323
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mambo Dave View Post
Speaking of which - just how bad an idea would it be to have Corbin cover a DR650 saddle with real leather instead of vynil?
Yeah. I had one of those on my ST1100. Just one word, RAIN! It took about a week for that sucker to dry out and when I sold the bike the leather was hard as a table top. Not a good idea IMO.
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Old 05-03-2013, 03:36 PM   #76324
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Corbin seats are firm, but break in with use. Get the "dual sport" size sheepskin buttpad from Alaska Leather. Ten hour rides are no problem for me with that combination.
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Old 05-03-2013, 03:42 PM   #76325
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Krusty ... View Post
Corbin seats are firm, but break in with use. Get the "dual sport" size sheepskin buttpad from Alaska Leather. Ten hour rides are no problem for me with that combination.
i find Corbin seats have too much material on the knee area when you stand.
it pushes out our knees funny.
i have a sargent (fits all tank too) and it's much better or a seat concepts would be another great choice.
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Old 05-03-2013, 04:40 PM   #76326
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eakins View Post
i find Corbin seats have too much material on the knee area when you stand.
it pushes out our knees funny.
Fat thighs?
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Old 05-03-2013, 04:57 PM   #76327
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eakins View Post
i find Corbin seats have too much material on the knee area when you stand.
it pushes out our knees funny.
i have a sargent (fits all tank too) and it's much better or a seat concepts would be another great choice.
I agree. The Corbin seat is too bulky at the front, forcing you to stand kind of bow legged when you ride standing up.
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Old 05-03-2013, 05:24 PM   #76328
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Seat concepts all the way nothing else will do.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Emmbeedee View Post
I agree. The Corbin seat is too bulky at the front, forcing you to stand kind of bow legged when you ride standing up.
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Old 05-03-2013, 05:38 PM   #76329
deathu
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clutch dragging

Guys,

I recently replaced the clutch pack (drive and driven discs + springs) as part of my '98 DR650 rebuild. The old discs were pretty worn out, and I used the EBC "Dirt racer" set that comes with stiffer springs.

Now I have the issue that the clutch is dragging, but ONLY when the engine is very hot (say after half hour of driving through crawling traffic, or slow trail riding). I adjusted the lever free-play to the point there is almost no cable slack, still the issue persists. The oil I used is Motul 5100 15W50 (semi-synthetic) and it only has 300kms.
If the engine doesn't heat badly (traffic/road conditions allow maintaining a constant, reasonable speed) I have absolutely no issues with clutch dragging.

Can this be related, in any way, to the stiffer clutch springs? Should I re-install the original springs? Any other ideas are welcome.
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Old 05-03-2013, 05:48 PM   #76330
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lpnb View Post
Seat concepts all the way nothing else will do.
My wife has the Seat Concepts and likes it, but I prefer my ProCycle/Saddlemen.
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Old 05-03-2013, 06:17 PM   #76331
Adv Grifter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Emmbeedee View Post
I agree. The Corbin seat is too bulky at the front, forcing you to stand kind of bow legged when you ride standing up.
It's true ... the Corbin does splay ones legs a bit when standing. Standing for HOURS in Baja, my solution was to move my feet outward on the pegs just a bit, and move further forward. Still not ideal. Funny thing is, I sort of get used to it after a day or two of riding off road all day.
Quote:
Originally Posted by lpnb View Post
Seat concepts all the way nothing else will do.
How many other seats have you tried besides stock? The two Seat Concepts I tried were not good, IMO. One on a Husky 630, the other on a Yamaha 1200 Tenere'. The Tenere' owner ditched the Seat Concept seat after one ride. Called it a "half measure". I have to agree. It's a frickin cheap kit ... assembled by an amateur. (the owner!)
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Old 05-03-2013, 06:27 PM   #76332
Adv Grifter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by deathu View Post
Guys,

I recently replaced the clutch pack (drive and driven discs + springs) as part of my '98 DR650 rebuild. The old discs were pretty worn out, and I used the EBC "Dirt racer" set that comes with stiffer springs.

Now I have the issue that the clutch is dragging, but ONLY when the engine is very hot (say after half hour of driving through crawling traffic, or slow trail riding). I adjusted the lever free-play to the point there is almost no cable slack, still the issue persists. The oil I used is Motul 5100 15W50 (semi-synthetic) and it only has 300kms.
If the engine doesn't heat badly (traffic/road conditions allow maintaining a constant, reasonable speed) I have absolutely no issues with clutch dragging.

Can this be related, in any way, to the stiffer clutch springs? Should I re-install the original springs? Any other ideas are welcome.
It's mostly related to the EBC kit being "One Size Fits All" after market junk.

Go back to stock Suzuki plates and springs. All will be OK.

You are not the first to experience this sort of issue with EBC kits. These issues have come up with both EBC and Barnett clutch kits, documented here somewhere.

I rode a DR650 with a Barnett and could not believe the effort it took just to pull in the clutch.
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Old 05-03-2013, 06:32 PM   #76333
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I agree, it has held up really well on the bike. I think its easier to put on over my riding gear.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Tripl Nikl View Post
I run the same 5.11 vest. It's better than the m/c specific vests, IMHO.
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Old 05-03-2013, 06:39 PM   #76334
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Quote:
Originally Posted by deathu View Post

... Can this be related, in any way, to the stiffer clutch springs? Should I re-install the original springs? Any other ideas are welcome.
I put one of those EBC Dirt Racer clutches in my DR350. I was expecting more clutch pull effort but dayum, that thing was like one of those spring thing grip exercisers. I might have eventually gotten used to it but I didn't want to. I left the EBC plates in and reinstalled the OE springs with shims. Seems to be fine now.
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Old 05-03-2013, 06:51 PM   #76335
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I love my Safari tank. Have only great things to say about it. Worth every Dollar.

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Quote:
Originally Posted by RideAlongAtlas1 View Post
Long distance riders,
Safari 30L tank $589 + postage "oh man, that's just plain old mean!" )
Acerbis 20L $270 + postage
Fuel bottles <$30 + a ride to the shops.
Safari: does it interfere with the controls and GPS units on the DR650?
What are your thoughts on tanks versus bottles? Say I'm going to go 600km+ (so I'll need >10 more litres).
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