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Old 05-07-2013, 06:46 AM   #76426
Foot dragger
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Location: chico,just below rag dump(nor-cal)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Carl Childers View Post
Want to do it on the cheap? When you have the bike loaded up for travel increase the spring preload to the DR shop manual specification for the stiff setting it's a simple measurement and easy to do. Travels over and luggage off? Set it back to to standard or soft. Truth is the stock shock is not all that bad when set correctly for intended use. I ride my DR pretty hard off road and do extended trips in the back country and the stocker is just fine. I'm saving my $$ til it actually needs a rebuild. The front forks are a different story they definitely need some help, a pair of intiminators made a big difference with mine.
You are darned lucky you got a stock shock that is pretty good,every time I rode mine stock even slightly hard with no load, it bottomed so hard and got so hot I was sure it would blow the seal out. Im only 180 lbs and the spring was too soft to set the sag right for me. I tried cranking preload all the way but it was still useless.
The wallowing drove me crazy mainly.
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Old 05-07-2013, 06:50 AM   #76427
Foot dragger
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Quote:
Originally Posted by french horn View Post
I know this is an old post but it got me thinking.

I have added panniers etc. with the intention of touring/camping, I feel my suspension is a bit saggy when fully loaded and was wanting to learn a bit about upgrading it.

My question to the vast think-tank: HOW do I work out what rating springs (front/rear) I need ... or what "specialist" should I contact?

I'm not too well off so if a cheap way of doing it is available, that'd be good as well.

Cheers guys.
www.kientech.com can maybe set you up a little cheaper suspension wise. When I put a full touring load on my DR with stock springs the Pelican boxes drug on the ground in corners.
Kinda distracting.
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Old 05-07-2013, 08:07 AM   #76428
JagLite
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Eh? Huh?

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Originally Posted by yegdod1 View Post
Anyone got a countershaft retainer seal for sale....? It needs to be shipped to Aust..
Uh, what is it you need?
The retainer seal?


I am pretty sure you mean you want the retainer FOR the countershaft seal.
ProCycle sells one but why not get one that is already in Australia?
Vic Strang sells them:
http://www.vincestrangmotorcycles.com.au/dr650.html
(near the bottom of the page in the "Chains/sprockets section)
From what I have read here, Suzuki dealers can get the new factory version now in Australia.
I have one on order here in the USA to see if we can get them yet.
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Old 05-07-2013, 09:35 AM   #76429
poppawheelie
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Rider Sag

I know rider sag should be about 3" since the DR has 9" of travel (rear). What should it be with the link set on the lower setting? Does the bike still have 9" of travel? I doubt it.
OK, if the question was asked before, I pre-apologize, but I couldn't find it.
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Old 05-07-2013, 11:29 AM   #76430
ER70S-2
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The travel changes from 10.2" to 8.7" front and rear.
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Old 05-07-2013, 12:23 PM   #76431
Adv Grifter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by french horn View Post
I know this is an old post but it got me thinking. I have added panniers etc. with the intention of touring/camping, I feel my suspension is a bit saggy when fully loaded and was wanting to learn a bit about upgrading it.

My question to the vast think-tank: HOW do I work out what rating springs (front/rear) I need ... or what "specialist" should I contact?
I'm not too well off so if a cheap way of doing it is available, that'd be good as well.
Cheers guys.
What is your weight? If over about 170 lbs. I would go to a heavier shock spring and heavier fork springs too.

The stock rear spring (I think) is about 6.5 kgs. I used an Eibach 7.6 kgs. (200 lb. rider) spring from Jesse at Kientech: http://www.kientech.com/

To go cheap on the forks you can add some pre load spacers on top of the ones already there. Use PVC pipe. Also, go up to 10 or 15 weight fork oil and add just a bit more than required.

Lots to do if you spend a bit of money. But you can start with above, but totally worth it to up grade everything if you really intend to ride the bike and tour on the bike.
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Old 05-07-2013, 01:34 PM   #76432
poppawheelie
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Rider Sag

Quote:
Originally Posted by Adv Grifter View Post
What is your weight? If over about 170 lbs. I would go to a heavier shock spring and heavier fork springs too.

The stock rear spring (I think) is about 6.5 kgs. I used an Eibach 7.6 kgs. (200 lb. rider) spring from Jesse at Kientech: http://www.kientech.com/

To go cheap on the forks you can add some pre load spacers on top of the ones already there. Use PVC pipe. Also, go up to 10 or 15 weight fork oil and add just a bit more than required.

Lots to do if you spend a bit of money. But you can start with above, but totally worth it to up grade everything if you really intend to ride the bike and tour on the bike.
Front end is fine. I did Eibach Springs and Gold Valves last year. Just got the shock back from Cogent and wanted to set it up right. Got to thinking, I'm running the low setting so travel will be less.
oops There it is right in the Owners Manual, 8.7 " travel in the low setting. Regular is 10.2, not 9.
I only go 170 lbs, but with rider sag set at just 2", I've got way too much static sag at 1 3/4." Should have gotten the next step up in a spring.
Thanks everyone for advice. More?
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Old 05-07-2013, 01:55 PM   #76433
Carl Childers
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Foot dragger View Post
You are darned lucky you got a stock shock that is pretty good,every time I rode mine stock even slightly hard with no load, it bottomed so hard and got so hot I was sure it would blow the seal out. Im only 180 lbs and the spring was too soft to set the sag right for me. I tried cranking preload all the way but it was still useless.
The wallowing drove me crazy mainly.
From reading all the posts here on shock problems I was going to send it off as a forgone conclusion and at the last minute thought to myself at least see if I can get it set to my liking and got pleasantly surprised.

Maybe I got a shock that was built on Wednesday but I wonder how many others like it are out there?

Unlucky at love, lucky at shocks.
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Old 05-07-2013, 02:13 PM   #76434
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Carl Childers View Post
From reading all the posts here on shock problems I was going to send it off as a forgone conclusion and at the last minute thought to myself at least see if I can get it set to my liking and got pleasantly surprised.

Maybe I got a shock that was built on Wednesday but I wonder how many others like it are out there?

Unlucky at love, lucky at shocks.
I'm about 220 lbs in riding gear and I've had as much as 80 lbs of luggage on the bike. have a Cogent shock now with a slightly stiffer spring. I like it and it is definitely better than stock but like you, in retrospect I don't think stock was all that bad. I believe ones assessment of the shock is highly dependent on riding style and locale. Very aggressive riders are probably the ones who find the Suzuki shock most lacking.
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Old 05-07-2013, 02:21 PM   #76435
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Talking Cam chain tensioner gasket

hello all,
Has anyone had any experience changing this "simple" gasket out? I had heard that you should know what you are doing with this. I want to make sure I am not going beyond my ability.

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Old 05-07-2013, 03:51 PM   #76436
Kommando
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Originally Posted by newride View Post
hello all,
Has anyone had any experience changing this "simple" gasket out? I had heard that you should know what you are doing with this. I want to make sure I am not going beyond my ability.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/brewbik...in/photostream
Just be sure to set the engine to true TDC before removing the CCT. I do this by rotating the back wheel in 5th with a sparkplug taken out. You'll feel the air rush out of the cylinder as the piston approaches TDC. Do NOT rotate the engine once you start to remove the CCT. The cam chain could skip teeth on the timing sprockets if it's too loose.

Retract the CCT fully BEFORE trying to reinstall it. It should click into it's retracted and locked position. Once you have it fully bolted in, release it.

I used RTV high-temp gasket-maker, after scraping off the OEM gasket with some gasket remover chemical. My CCT hasn't leaked in over 10K miles now.
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Old 05-07-2013, 06:31 PM   #76437
ER70S-2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Adv Grifter View Post
To go cheap on the forks you can add some pre load spacers on top of the ones already there. Use PVC pipe. Also, go up to 10 or 15 weight fork oil and add just a bit more than required.

Lots to do if you spend a bit of money. But you can start with above, but totally worth it to up grade everything if you really intend to ride the bike and tour on the bike.
fwiw: I wanted to lessen fork dive under heavier or downhill braking.
For my 210 pound riding weight, 15 pound tailbag and stock 3.4 gallon tank; 1/2" additional preload was too stiff and 1/4" was still too soft.
also fwiw: stock fork oil is 10w

Quote:
Originally Posted by poppawheelie View Post
Front end is fine. I did Eibach Springs and Gold Valves last year. Just got the shock back from Cogent and wanted to set it up right. Got to thinking, I'm running the low setting so travel will be less.
oops There it is right in the Owners Manual, 8.7" travel in the low setting. Regular is 10.2, not 9.
I only go 170 lbs, but with rider sag set at just 2", I've got way too much static sag at 1 3/4." Should have gotten the next step up in a spring.
Thanks everyone for advice. More?
If you don't flip the spring seat when you move the shock bolt, it should still have 10.2" of travel. Theoretically the tire could hit the rear fender. However many have done this and reported no fender contact.

About the rider/static sag: it's been said the initial DR shock linkage has a high mechanical advantage and will allow more rider sag than one might expect. I'm only repeating internet info that I've seen more than once, true or not.

Since you only weigh 170 the stock spring is almost enough. If you went up one 'size' to a 7.x you're good for your weight.

Quote:
Originally Posted by thump! View Post
I'm about 220 lbs in riding gear and I've had as much as 80 lbs of luggage on the bike. have a Cogent shock now with a slightly stiffer spring. I like it and it is definitely better than stock but like you, in retrospect I don't think stock was all that bad. I believe ones assessment of the shock is highly dependent on riding style and locale. Very aggressive riders are probably the ones who find the Suzuki shock most lacking.
I ride like an , well, because I am. But with the emulators and springs up front and a full Cogent on the rear (stock spring), I'm in heaven anytime there are stutter bumps (corrugations for our Aussie/Kiwi friends). I ride along looking at the surface thinking 'gee, that looks bumpy' and feeling a tiny fraction of what the stock suspension transmitted to the rider (me ).
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Threewheelbonnie View Post
"BTW, I don't do style. It's a dirt bike, not some girlie dress-up thing." -

ER70S-2 screwed with this post 05-07-2013 at 06:38 PM
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Old 05-07-2013, 06:41 PM   #76438
Adv Grifter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ER70S-2 View Post
fwiw: I wanted to lessen fork dive under heavier or downhill braking.
For my 210 pound riding weight, 15 pound tailbag and stock 3.4 gallon tank; 1/2" additional preload was too stiff and 1/4" was still too soft.
also fwiw: stock fork oil is 10w
Yea, getting just the right setting can be tricky. Depends on personal preference. So much you can do ... like Race Tech emulators, different oil weights and oil height, different preload and mixing oils to get desired weight. And with emulators you can fiddle with the rebound springs and holes in damper rods. Lots of options for tuning.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ER70S-2 View Post
About the rider/static sag: it's been said the initial DR shock linkage has a high mechanical advantage and will allow more rider sag than one might expect. I'm only repeating internet info that I've seen more than once, true or not.
I agree. The DR does have A LOT of static sag ... even with a heavier spring.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ER70S-2 View Post
I ride like an , well, because I am. But with the emulators and springs up front and a full Cogent on the rear (stock spring), I'm in heaven anytime there are stutter bumps (corrugations for our Aussie/Kiwi friends). I ride along looking at the surface thinking 'gee, that looks bumpy' and feeling a tiny fraction of what the stock suspension transmitted to the rider (me ).
You've done well! Not easy to get it just right! Mine is not all that plush but over all ... pretty good. It also works pretty well for rough off road, which I don't ride that often now!
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Old 05-07-2013, 06:43 PM   #76439
ER70S-2
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SUZUKI DR650SE INFORMATION INDEX
Quote:
Originally Posted by Threewheelbonnie View Post
"BTW, I don't do style. It's a dirt bike, not some girlie dress-up thing." -
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Old 05-07-2013, 06:58 PM   #76440
procycle
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ER70S-2 View Post
If you don't flip the spring seat when you move the shock bolt, it should still have 10.2" of travel. Theoretically the tire could hit the rear fender. However many have done this and reported no fender contact.
It's probably true. The tire probably would not be able to hit the fender unless the bottoming bumper is missing or trashed.

Quote:
About the rider/static sag: it's been said the initial DR shock linkage has a high mechanical advantage and will allow more rider sag than one might expect. I'm only repeating internet info that I've seen more than once, true or not.
That was always assumed but doesn't turn out to be the case. The DR has a relatively flat linkage ratio.

Quote:
Originally Posted by poppawheelie View Post
...I'm running the low setting so travel will be less.
oops There it is right in the Owners Manual, 8.7 " travel in the low setting. Regular is 10.2
You might find this interesting
--> http://drriders.com/topic8180.html
I measured the actual shock travel and calculated the linkage leverage ratios.
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