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Old 05-30-2013, 08:09 PM   #77161
Load Clear
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Joined: Feb 2012
Location: Center of the Rez, AZ
Oddometer: 35
AZ, NM or CO Shop

Hey guys, can anyone recommend a mechanic and/or a quality fab shop in or near:
Flagstaff, AZ, Cortez/Durango, CO or Albuquerque, NM?

I am moving back out to the Navajo Rez next week. My only wrench is a hammer and I don't know the top end from an endo so, I am looking for a good shop or two.

Grifter, ER70S, Jayhawk, et al locals - I can pay in beer and whiskey so you won't have to pay taxes on it.
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Old 05-30-2013, 08:20 PM   #77162
dankatz
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Location: Boston, MA
Oddometer: 351
Quote:
Originally Posted by scottbed View Post
So, after 2 years of monkeying with the entire intake/exhaust on my bike I am convinced I have a real problem, maybe with the top end or even electrical.

I am looking for a mechanic to help me go through the top end. I would like to work with you if possible nights and/or weekends. Let me know what you want for rate and/or gifts! I only want someone with 4-stroke dirt bike experience, preferably on DR650s. I'd be open to a real shop if anyone knows someone reputable and reasonable and I would just drop it off and pick it up. Reasonable is the key here....if it's too much I'll just sell it and invest the money I'd spend to fix it on a newer year.

Symptoms/Observations:
  • Bad gas mileage, ranges from 30mpg to 45mpg (bad to almost normal, mostly around 39mpg), this started happening the 2nd year after I bought it used in 2009 with 2k on it (it's a 2002)
  • rarely I'll hear a single ping sound (like you hit a musical triangle with a small hammer) - only happens once in a while...usually when I get on the gas - sticky valve?
  • makes good power
  • only needs tiny amount of choke (probably not a problem, maybe idle jet is too large)
  • some type of vibration and/or runs slightly rough up hills some of the time
What I've done:
  • opened air box
  • TM40 carb (cleaned original carb, replaced original carb with OEM, replaced that with a TM40).
  • new exhaust can
  • new air filter
  • honed exhaust header
  • valve adjustment (many times)
  • new plugs
  • brought to mechanic to clean carb and jet properly - didn't fix mileage issue
Thoughts:
  • sticky exhaust valve
  • improperly jetted and/or carb settings like the float. I'm still scared of pinging noise even if this is issue
  • Other top end issue
  • electrical issue with CDI or pickup coils
But I just want to tear down to the cylinder, inspect valves/valve stem seals/seats, inspect cylinder/rings, safety wire NSU screw, inspect clutch, inspect steering head bearings. Maybe more...replace parts as necessary.

I'd like to start this work as soon as possible...riding season is happening now and I'm losing time :). My primary goal is to make sure the bike is up to snuff for a 6 day labor day ride in New Brunswick. I have a 2nd DR (2000) that I might have someone do once over on it if they have time.

I've been riding/racing and working on bikes for a lot of years...I'm not lugging it or riding it incorrectly. I can work on bikes but just don't have the time right now and would really like a more experienced person to help out.

Thanks!
I live in Newton, MA and I have a friend who used to be a mechanic. We have a couple of DR350's in my garage that are undergoing some "optimizations". I may be picking up a DR650 this weekend as well.

This may be silly - I am no mechanic. I had a similar problem with a torn petcock diaphargm on my Honda Superhawk. The bike would smell of gas. It would run rich. I would get much worse fuel mileage as well (30mpg). It was a $20 fix rebuilding the petcock which was buried under the tank on the superhawk. Mileage immediately improved from 30mpg to about 40mpg. Does this bike have it's original petcock? You can find a cheap new aftermarket or Yamaha petcock (I think Raptor works) to check. Just a thought
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Old 05-30-2013, 08:28 PM   #77163
Adv Grifter
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Joined: Jan 2010
Location: Passing ADV Stalkers in California
Oddometer: 6,128
Quote:
Originally Posted by scottbed View Post
Brand new TM40 carb from Procycle installed middle of last year....mileage did go up on average but still swung all over the place. I got 47mpg sometimes....sometimes I got in mid 30's.

I pine sol soaked the original carb...no change. Replaced with another stock carb...no change. Rebuilt original carb...no change. Replaced with TM40...some change but still very erratic.

No carb change has fixed this...that is why I think it's not the carb.
Unusual. I'd think about a leak down test just for laughs. Any oil use?
This sounds stupid ... but are BOTH plugs working? I left one off once by mistake ... bike runs but slightly 'weak' . Since you've been through so many Carbs ... maybe NOT carb related. I'm stumped. Best of luck sorting things out.
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Old 05-30-2013, 08:35 PM   #77164
Adv Grifter
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Joined: Jan 2010
Location: Passing ADV Stalkers in California
Oddometer: 6,128
Quote:
Originally Posted by Load Clear View Post
Hey guys, can anyone recommend a mechanic and/or a quality fab shop in or near:
Flagstaff, AZ, Cortez/Durango, CO or Albuquerque, NM?

I am moving back out to the Navajo Rez next week. My only wrench is a hammer and I don't know the top end from an endo so, I am looking for a good shop or two.

Grifter, ER70S, Jayhawk, et al locals - I can pay in beer and whiskey so you won't have to pay taxes on it.
I'm in California ... but will help anyway I can. We've got several great DR guys in those states ... hopefully they'll chime in and can help out.
What is wrong with your bike?

(Love the Beer and Whiskey offer ... but you forgot GUNS! ...just kidding ... reminds of when in Antarctica ... the brass would check in with us over HAM radio. Before signing off they'd ask "... hey, anything you guys need down there?" Yea ... Whiskey and Guns! Somehow the big bosses were not amused.
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Old 05-30-2013, 10:07 PM   #77165
GSF1200S
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Joined: Jul 2012
Location: Austin, Texas
Oddometer: 976
Quote:
Originally Posted by scottbed View Post
Brand new TM40 carb from Procycle installed middle of last year....mileage did go up on average but still swung all over the place. I got 47mpg sometimes....sometimes I got in mid 30's.

I pine sol soaked the original carb...no change. Replaced with another stock carb...no change. Rebuilt original carb...no change. Replaced with TM40...some change but still very erratic.

No carb change has fixed this...that is why I think it's not the carb.
My bike got 54 us mpg first tank after lowering the needle a notch from the 3rd groove. Got about 45 before that. That said, adding sails (wolfmans) and 50 pounds of shit has brought it back down to about 47. My first thought reading the weird behavior was a vacuum leak- like a torn boot from the carb to the head? To cause so much variance though it would have to be big, and that doesn't explain the wide range in gas mileage. Mileage variations scream carb, but you seem to have eliminated that. Maybe some issue allowing the cam timing to change thereby making you use the throttle more, but it would still be more consistent (cam chain jumping a tooth). The ping screams lean or too advanced- maybe a fluke problem with the cdi? Your issues do sound strange indeed..
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Old 05-30-2013, 10:31 PM   #77166
blackcap
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Joined: Jul 2008
Location: Wollongong aka stink-town, Australia
Oddometer: 548
Quote:
Originally Posted by panhead_pete View Post
Posted this in the Aus section and keep forgetting about this thread Thinking others may be able to help too.


Yet another set up question.....

One of the last jobs to be done for the DR is getting power for the following up at the bars.

Heated grips
GPS
LED Spotlights
Cigarette lighter - marine version?

Any advice on the best way to do this? Was thinking of a fused power source from the battery via the ignition switch to some sort of switch block and then running each of them off that? Having never done this sort of thing Im guessing there is a better way to do this.
something like this is nice if you can afford it and find somewhere to locate it. means you only have one extra wire from the battery to the front of the bike, can use properly rated fuses for each device and can easily choose if you want each thing running off switched or constant voltage.



http://www.fuzeblocks.com/
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Old 05-30-2013, 10:36 PM   #77167
TUCKERS
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Joined: Dec 2005
Location: Villa Maria Sanitarium, Claremont, CA.
Oddometer: 12,065
You can get a three fuse block from many auto parts stores for $10. I got mine from O'Reilly. I think Pep-Boys have them too.
Put it under you headlight fairing, one wire to the battery or pick up a live wire in the mix up there.
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Old 05-30-2013, 10:58 PM   #77168
Chill
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Joined: Aug 2012
Location: QLD Australia
Oddometer: 326
Quote:
Originally Posted by Chill View Post
Had a look through the window of a local dealer last night and spotted what i think was a new DR with a different muffler. Could this be the first of a redesign? It had what looked like the standard heat sheild and seemed to be stock but a lot smaller that STD. I got a pic I need to host it somewhere and link to it. Is anyone else aware of this?
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Old 05-30-2013, 11:04 PM   #77169
acesandeights
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Location: So. Oregon
Oddometer: 4,022
How new can it be considering it's already plated?
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Old 05-30-2013, 11:06 PM   #77170
TUCKERS
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Location: Villa Maria Sanitarium, Claremont, CA.
Oddometer: 12,065
Looks a lot like a Staintune
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Old 05-30-2013, 11:19 PM   #77171
TrophyHunter
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Joined: Aug 2009
Location: San Diego
Oddometer: 2,265
Quote:
Originally Posted by panhead_pete View Post
Any advice on the best way to do this? Was thinking of a fused power source from the battery via the ignition switch to some sort of switch block and then running each of them off that? Having never done this sort of thing Im guessing there is a better way to do this.
http://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/Wi...3_circuit.html

I'm a fan of Eastern Beaver stuff. Ready to go, your choice of fused circuits, etc. Yeah, you can build one but I'd rather not experiment with the electrical since I'm just not comfortable with my skill - or lack of - level.
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Old 05-31-2013, 12:42 AM   #77172
Chill
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Joined: Aug 2012
Location: QLD Australia
Oddometer: 326
Quote:
Originally Posted by acesandeights View Post
How new can it be considering it's already plated?
New but sold I guess, that's pretty standard here.
Quote:
Originally Posted by TUCKERS View Post
Looks a lot like a Staintune
Yes, I thought that it looks like a Staintune with the STD heatshield. It hasn't really come out in the pic but I could see behind the side panel where it went down to join the header pipe it wasn't like an aftermarket pipe it had a CAT on the end of it like a smaller version of the original. And it's not listed as a used bike on their website so was assuming it was new.
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Old 05-31-2013, 05:07 AM   #77173
Carl Childers
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Joined: Dec 2012
Location: Northern New Mexico
Oddometer: 864
Quote:
Originally Posted by Load Clear View Post
Hey guys, can anyone recommend a mechanic and/or a quality fab shop in or near:
Flagstaff, AZ, Cortez/Durango, CO or Albuquerque, NM?

I am moving back out to the Navajo Rez next week. My only wrench is a hammer and I don't know the top end from an endo so, I am looking for a good shop or two.

Grifter, ER70S, Jayhawk, et al locals - I can pay in beer and whiskey so you won't have to pay taxes on it.
Wish I could help you with this but I work on my own bikes, I'd think there'd have to be a decent shop or two in Albuquerque, I can't vouch for any in Taos or Santa Fe.
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Old 05-31-2013, 05:12 AM   #77174
scottbed
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Joined: Apr 2010
Location: Arlington, MA
Oddometer: 453
Quote:
Originally Posted by dankatz View Post
I live in Newton, MA and I have a friend who used to be a mechanic. We have a couple of DR350's in my garage that are undergoing some "optimizations". I may be picking up a DR650 this weekend as well.

This may be silly - I am no mechanic. I had a similar problem with a torn petcock diaphargm on my Honda Superhawk. The bike would smell of gas. It would run rich. I would get much worse fuel mileage as well (30mpg). It was a $20 fix rebuilding the petcock which was buried under the tank on the superhawk. Mileage immediately improved from 30mpg to about 40mpg. Does this bike have it's original petcock? You can find a cheap new aftermarket or Yamaha petcock (I think Raptor works) to check. Just a thought
I have the Raptor (bought from Procycle).

Does your friend want some work?
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Old 05-31-2013, 05:16 AM   #77175
scottbed
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Joined: Apr 2010
Location: Arlington, MA
Oddometer: 453
Quote:
Originally Posted by GSF1200S View Post
My bike got 54 us mpg first tank after lowering the needle a notch from the 3rd groove. Got about 45 before that. That said, adding sails (wolfmans) and 50 pounds of shit has brought it back down to about 47. My first thought reading the weird behavior was a vacuum leak- like a torn boot from the carb to the head? To cause so much variance though it would have to be big, and that doesn't explain the wide range in gas mileage. Mileage variations scream carb, but you seem to have eliminated that. Maybe some issue allowing the cam timing to change thereby making you use the throttle more, but it would still be more consistent (cam chain jumping a tooth). The ping screams lean or too advanced- maybe a fluke problem with the cdi? Your issues do sound strange indeed..
Replaced the boot....

I almost picked up a cdi on eBay but I have a 2nd DR now so I can use that bike to troubleshoot the first one. I just have zero time with work/kids and training for upcoming Bike MS ride.

Hmmm, that gives me an idea....maybe I'll take all the entire intake/exhaust parts from DR #2 and put it on DR #1 and see if mileage stays same. If it does, then I think you could say it's either electrical or the engine and I'll then move the CDI and ignition coils over and see if it stays the same. I would think at that point I can safely say it's the engine. Otherwise, I'll know basically what part 'fixed' it and can replace that on DR #1. I am still willing to pay someone in the Boston area to do this...just too busy right now.
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