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Old 06-27-2013, 01:32 PM   #78016
Richguzzi
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Ignition

Try spraying some WD40 into the key slot. It's a long shot but I have been able to get a little longer life out of a switch by doing this.
And remember if it can't be fixed with a hammer or ductape it's definatly an electrical problem.
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Old 06-27-2013, 01:44 PM   #78017
Albie
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Richguzzi View Post
And remember if it can't be fixed with a hammer or ductape it's definatly an electrical problem.
OK, a hammer to split it apart, then duct tape to put it back together.
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Old 06-27-2013, 02:13 PM   #78018
BluesCruiser
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Richguzzi View Post
Try spraying some WD40 into the key slot. It's a long shot but I have been able to get a little longer life out of a switch by doing this.
And remember if it can't be fixed with a hammer or ductape it's definatly an electrical problem.
Ha! Hammer after I get it off for sure! As I said, I am SOOOO glad this happened as I was leaving not when I was way off somewhere!!

Thanks for all the tips everyone!

Dave
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Old 06-27-2013, 02:19 PM   #78019
MoBill
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Bobzilla might have an ignition switch for his--I saw he eliminated it.
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Old 06-27-2013, 02:31 PM   #78020
BluesCruiser
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MoBill View Post
Bobzilla might have an ignition switch for his--I saw he eliminated it.
Good suggestion Mo. I'll give him a PM.

Dave
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Old 06-27-2013, 02:38 PM   #78021
Rusty Rocket
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Originally Posted by BluesCruiser
Tried to start my 2000 last weekend. Turned on the key and all the usual lights came on, then hit the starter and everything went dead; no lights even when the key is on.

Mine did the same thing one time. There's a big plug under the fuel tank that had managed to get loose.

YMMV
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Old 06-27-2013, 02:41 PM   #78022
8gv
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Shimming the needle...

So the tutorial linked above refers to shimming the needle to get rid of "surging".

What is the definition of "surging"?

My bike comes on really strong from about half throttle and up. By comparison, the first half of the throttle is fairly mild. Would shimming help or must I drill the slide?

Of these two actions, which will hurt my gas mileage more?
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Old 06-27-2013, 03:15 PM   #78023
kbuckey
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BluesCruiser View Post
Tried to start my 2000 last weekend. Turned on the key and all the usual lights came on, then hit the starter and everything went dead; no lights even when the key is on. At least it happened in the driveway and not way the heck up some forest road with no cell coverage!

I figured it had to be some fuze somewhere. Tore into it this morning and everything looks OK. Battery is hot and no burned fuzes. Pulled the tank and started tracing the wires, and as far as I can tell I have 12v all the way to here...



...but nothing after that!

The hot wire from the battery is in the bundle that goes into that (dirty) gray box under the keyed switch, right under that square boss on the side. I am guessing something bad has happened inside. Have any of you run into this on your DR? Any tips on getting to that box and checking it out?

Thanks for any suggestions you might have.

Dave
I had similar issues. Checked everything I could but it all pointed to the ignition switch. Got a replacement. All normal.
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Old 06-27-2013, 03:41 PM   #78024
yourdrunkdad
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Being new to the DR is there anything else besides what We have already discussed that I should look for?
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Old 06-27-2013, 03:46 PM   #78025
refokus
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slow08wrex View Post
Being new to the DR is there anything else besides what We have already discussed that I should look for?
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=366046

Read this

The dr650 one of course. It has some great details. Can this thread, lots of good info floating around.
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Old 06-27-2013, 03:59 PM   #78026
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Went to the dealers today and looked at a 2013. Count me in! Like the idea it can be dropped and most likely picked back up with very little damage.

Disliked the hard seat and bike was not as tall as I thought it was. If it can be lowered 1.5 inches by the dealer it should be perfect for my 5'10 frame. Since we just moved into a new house and area lots going on this summer so I don't plan on buying one until the end of August then I'll have the winter to add the farkles and break it in on the highway as you can pretty much get out and ride once a week in Colorado even during the winter.

Thunderjet screwed with this post 06-27-2013 at 08:55 PM
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Old 06-27-2013, 06:01 PM   #78027
netsuke
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Can you get rid of the ignition and just conceal an on/off switch somewhere ? I realize the ignition is a kind of on/off switch, but a complicated one with a diode, barrel for the key etc... For me , less wires is better ! Any advice please ?
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Old 06-27-2013, 06:06 PM   #78028
805gregg
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Thunderjet View Post
Went to the dealers today and looked at a 2013. Count me in! Like the idea it can be dropped and most likely picked back up with very little damage.

Disliked the hard seat and bike was not as tall as I thought it was. If it can be lowered 1.5 inches by the dealer it should be perfect for my 5'10 frame. Since we just moved into a new house and area lots going on this summer so I don't plan on buying one until the end of August then I'll have the winter to add the farkles and break it in on the highway as you can pretty much get out and ride once a week in Colorado.
Just find a used one, I got a '96 for $1900, with only 10,000 miles, I'm 5'11 with a short 30" inseam and my DR is just the right height,a Sargent seat will cure the seat problems
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Old 06-27-2013, 06:08 PM   #78029
Andyinhilo
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 8gv View Post
So the tutorial linked above refers to shimming the needle to get rid of "surging".

What is the definition of "surging"?

My bike comes on really strong from about half throttle and up. By comparison, the first half of the throttle is fairly mild. Would shimming help or must I drill the slide?

Of these two actions, which will hurt my gas mileage more?
The biggest help for what you describe, and for surging, is to get a 14 tooth C/S sprocket. The best way I could define surging is the seems to speed up and slow down almost imperceptibly when you are riding at a constant throttle setting.

The sprocket change eliminated that for me, and adds a bit of yank in the low end. I could not see any difference in the MPG. I did shim the needle and remove the snorkel, and it added a bit more low end response. Again, no measurable change in MPG. Mine almost always gets 50-53.
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Old 06-27-2013, 07:13 PM   #78030
8gv
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Andyinhilo View Post
The biggest help for what you describe, and for surging, is to get a 14 tooth C/S sprocket. The best way I could define surging is the seems to speed up and slow down almost imperceptibly when you are riding at a constant throttle setting.

The sprocket change eliminated that for me, and adds a bit of yank in the low end. I could not see any difference in the MPG. I did shim the needle and remove the snorkel, and it added a bit more low end response. Again, no measurable change in MPG. Mine almost always gets 50-53.
I've noticed that while holding it steady at less than half throttle, it feels like I'm lightly pulsing the throttle. I've just today received a 14t sprocket. Does removing the snorkel make it louder or more susceptible to drowning?

50 or better mpg is fine for me.

Thanks
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