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Old 06-27-2013, 07:00 AM   #78016
8gv
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Joined: Nov 2009
Location: North central CT
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How did you get that inlet filter to levitate like that? I had to use needle nose pliers.
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Old 06-27-2013, 07:09 AM   #78017
Albie
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 8gv View Post
How did you get that inlet filter to levitate like that? I had to use needle nose pliers.
A magician never revels his secrets.
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Old 06-27-2013, 07:40 AM   #78018
Emmbeedee
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Location: Near Ottawa, ON, Canada
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Albie View Post
A magician never revels his secrets.
'It's an illusion, Michael'
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Old 06-27-2013, 08:39 AM   #78019
andy from MO
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Joined: Sep 2008
Location: Thayer, MO
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Wicked I need advice on locating a Fuzeblock on my new DR650

Quote:
Originally Posted by TBKahuna View Post
Olas,

Look at www.easternbeaver.com. And no, it's not that type of beaver. They have a 3 circuit gizmo that I used on my previous DR.

http://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/Pr...3_circuit.html

Although the owner/builder lives in Japan, I have found shipping to be not only reasonable but quick. I've used his products on my GS1200 and my previous DR. He does quality work and his website is very informative.
I purchased a new 2012 in March 2013 for my own birthday present!!! I'm loving the bike except for the off idle lean sputter. I haven't yet started to tackle that. It's fine at idle and fine in the upper 15/16ths of the throttle....just the first little bit it runs way lean.... PS...don't really want to do a full airbox, jetkit, kinda deal...I just want that tiny off idle lean spot fixed. The rest is fine.

So anyway, after some searching I decided to go with the Fuzeblock FZ1. Now I'm struggling to find a good place to locate it. Anyone got pictures of their setup?
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Old 06-27-2013, 09:34 AM   #78020
yourdrunkdad
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Location: STFU, U NAZI
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ER70S-2 View Post
This:





The inside of the carb was spotless. But I did not check the inlet filter. I will be going home for lunch today and grinding ou the exhaust. After work I will put the Dr. back together and let you guys know how she turns out.
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Old 06-27-2013, 09:41 AM   #78021
Richguzzi
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Location: SF Bay Area
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Quote:
Originally Posted by andy from MO View Post
I purchased a new 2012 in March 2013 for my own birthday present!!! I'm loving the bike except for the off idle lean sputter. I haven't yet started to tackle that. It's fine at idle and fine in the upper 15/16ths of the throttle....just the first little bit it runs way lean.... PS...don't really want to do a full airbox, jetkit, kinda deal...I just want that tiny off idle lean spot fixed. The rest is fine.
I found on mine, that remains untouched, it got better after about 1,200 miles and continues with more miles. But maybe it just doesn't bother me anymore. I just don't spend much time with the throttle right off idle.
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Richguzzi screwed with this post 06-27-2013 at 09:54 AM
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Old 06-27-2013, 09:52 AM   #78022
andy from MO
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Richguzzi View Post
I found on mine, that remains untouched, that it got better after about 1,200 miles and continues with more miles. But maybe it just doesn't bother me anymore. I just don't spend much time with the throttle right off idle.

I have 1050 miles and it hasn't changed. Which carb circuit is responsible for the "barely off idle"? Slide needle? I'm thinking idle jet and main jet are fine...help!

And pics of Fuzeblock mountings and dash pics would be cool too. Thanks
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Old 06-27-2013, 10:20 AM   #78023
ER70S-2
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Location: SE Denver-ish
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Barely off idle is the idle fuel screw. Instructions thanks to Jessepitt.
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showp...5&postcount=71

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"BTW, I don't do style. It's a dirt bike, not some girlie dress-up thing." -
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Old 06-27-2013, 10:45 AM   #78024
BluesCruiser
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Location: East Bay
Oddometer: 81
Ignition Switch Failure?

Tried to start my 2000 last weekend. Turned on the key and all the usual lights came on, then hit the starter and everything went dead; no lights even when the key is on. At least it happened in the driveway and not way the heck up some forest road with no cell coverage!

I figured it had to be some fuze somewhere. Tore into it this morning and everything looks OK. Battery is hot and no burned fuzes. Pulled the tank and started tracing the wires, and as far as I can tell I have 12v all the way to here...



...but nothing after that!

The hot wire from the battery is in the bundle that goes into that (dirty) gray box under the keyed switch, right under that square boss on the side. I am guessing something bad has happened inside. Have any of you run into this on your DR? Any tips on getting to that box and checking it out?

Thanks for any suggestions you might have.

Dave
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Old 06-27-2013, 10:55 AM   #78025
acesandeights
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Joined: Jul 2008
Location: So. Oregon
Oddometer: 3,386
My bike did exactly that. My battery cable had come loose.
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Old 06-27-2013, 10:56 AM   #78026
Albie
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Location: Upstate SC
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BluesCruiser View Post
Tried to start my 2000 last weekend. Turned on the key and all the usual lights came on, then hit the starter and everything went dead; no lights even when the key is on. At least it happened in the driveway and not way the heck up some forest road with no cell coverage!

I figured it had to be some fuze somewhere. Tore into it this morning and everything looks OK. Battery is hot and no burned fuzes. Pulled the tank and started tracing the wires, and as far as I can tell I have 12v all the way to here...



...but nothing after that!

The hot wire from the battery is in the bundle that goes into that (dirty) gray box under the keyed switch, right under that square boss on the side. I am guessing something bad has happened inside. Have any of you run into this on your DR? Any tips on getting to that box and checking it out?

Thanks for any suggestions you might have.

Dave

If that really is your problem then you'll have to buy a whole new ignition. It's riveted and peened together to prevent you from easily getting it apart. Makes sense, why make it easy on thieves.
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Old 06-27-2013, 11:06 AM   #78027
andy from MO
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ER70S-2 View Post
Barely off idle is the idle fuel screw. Instructions thanks to Jessepitt.
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showp...5&postcount=71


THANK YOU!

Now how about a mounting location pic for an FZ-1 Fuzeblock???? Anyone???
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Old 06-27-2013, 11:30 AM   #78028
Adv Grifter
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Location: Passing ADV Stalkers in California
Oddometer: 6,128
Quote:
Originally Posted by BluesCruiser View Post
Tried to start my 2000 last weekend. Turned on the key and all the usual lights came on, then hit the starter and everything went dead; no lights even when the key is on. At least it happened in the driveway and not way the heck up some forest road with no cell coverage!

I figured it had to be some fuze somewhere. Tore into it this morning and everything looks OK. Battery is hot and no burned fuzes. Pulled the tank and started tracing the wires, and as far as I can tell I have 12v all the way to here...

...but nothing after that!

The hot wire from the battery is in the bundle that goes into that (dirty) gray box under the keyed switch, right under that square boss on the side. I am guessing something bad has happened inside. Have any of you run into this on your DR? Any tips on getting to that box and checking it out?

Thanks for any suggestions you might have.

Dave
As you probably know the DR650 has a couple ignition cut out safety switches: Side Stand, Clutch. I don't know if they have been modified on your bike. If so ... then double check the wiring related to those. The Side Stand wires are a bit vulnerable.

If everything is stock, I would double check all the wires are hooked up, not damaged, frayed or shorting. This will take some time. The way these cut outs work is a bit complicated ... and I don't fully understand the routing required ... but there is more to it than meets the eye.

Before the problem were you able to start your bike with the side stand down? If so ... it's been modified. Were you able to start the bike without pulling clutch IN? Same deal.

I doubt the problem is within the ignition switch itself unless it's been tampered with, but I guess the internal contacts could be worn out?
The Ignition DOES come out. Be aware there is a little Diode underneath it ... without it the bike won't start. (Anti-theft device)
With the ignition out you can turn it over and see that Diode. Check for continuity ... then leave it alone if OK, or replace if not.

The wire bundles going into the ignition may have a broken wire internally. Try wiggling the bundle up near the Ignition.

Check the main fuse too. (under right side panel) Make sure everything there looks OK, no burnt connections or loose wire/connectors.

I pretty much suck at this sort of thing. I would try to find someone who really is good at tracing faults on MC wiring and can read a wiring diagram and who is good with a VOM.
All the best!
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Old 06-27-2013, 11:54 AM   #78029
47flattie
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The same thing happened to my '96 this spring, the battery lead going into the switch broke at the solder joint inside the switch. I bypassed the ign switch with a toggle and a resistor but left the ign switch there to keep the steering lock and a place to store the key for the gas cap.



Quote:
Originally Posted by BluesCruiser View Post
Tried to start my 2000 last weekend. Turned on the key and all the usual lights came on, then hit the starter and everything went dead; no lights even when the key is on. At least it happened in the driveway and not way the heck up some forest road with no cell coverage!

I figured it had to be some fuze somewhere. Tore into it this morning and everything looks OK. Battery is hot and no burned fuzes. Pulled the tank and started tracing the wires, and as far as I can tell I have 12v all the way to here...



...but nothing after that!

The hot wire from the battery is in the bundle that goes into that (dirty) gray box under the keyed switch, right under that square boss on the side. I am guessing something bad has happened inside. Have any of you run into this on your DR? Any tips on getting to that box and checking it out?

Thanks for any suggestions you might have.

Dave
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Old 06-27-2013, 12:05 PM   #78030
BluesCruiser
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Location: East Bay
Oddometer: 81
Thanks for your suggestions, and yeah the battery connections were the first thing I checked, too. As I said before, there is power all the way to the switch, but after that absolutely nothing. No lights come on when I turn the key, for example, so I don't think it can be one of the safety cut-outs.

So it is likely to be a fault in that box and not in the key lock itself? Does anyone know what the box is called?

Dave
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