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Old 07-24-2013, 02:25 PM   #79051
oldschoolsk8ter
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Joined: Jul 2007
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Anybody use the Seat concepts "TALL" version?

I have seen the feedback on the standard and it is looking great from that end.

I am 6' 2" and am thinking about getting the "Tall".

Any pictures?? does it look odd with too much seat thickness?
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Old 07-24-2013, 02:44 PM   #79052
brucifer
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Adv Grifter View Post
You can buy another plastic sprocket cover for cheap here on Flea Market.
Stock counter shaft (front) sprocket is 15T. A 14T is also commonly used for guys going off road. If the 14T was installed incorrectly ... well that could have broken your chain.

It's unlikely chain was cut, but who knows? A DID 525 O ring is the stock chain. If you have a 520 chain/sprockets on there ... it should say so on the chain links: DID/525 or DID/520. Both sizes can work, but 525 will last longer. The stock chain from Suzuki is an Endless chain ... no master link at all. It is installed at the factory when the swing arm is off. So if you do NOT find a master link ... then your broken chain is the original, stock DID O Ring chain.

There are BETTER chains for the DR650 beyond the stock chain. The stock chain typically lasts 10K -14K miles depending on use. A premium DID X Ring chain can go past 24,000 miles.

To break even a worn out stock chain is hard to do. Couple things are possible in your case:
1. P.O. did LOTS of wheelies, rode the bike very hard off road, lots of really hairy jumps/hard landings.
2. Chain was adjusted way too tight. This will quickly wear out the chain and at some point it could break ... but still, overall this is something quite RARE around here. Even the Aussies don't break many chains.

I would buy new Suzuki Sprockets (stock sizes) and a Premium DID X Ring chain, I think a 112 or 114 link chain will do. NO ... you do not need to remove swing arm to install your new chain. Use a master link. I like Rivet link master links rather than a clip type master link, but both are OK if installed correctly. Most shops will want to do the more secure Rivet link.
Yeah, it's a DID 525. It was a clean break--one link completey gone.
I'm thinking it was just a bad link, not riveted together completely from the factory or something.
The bike itself is in like new condition--it doesn't look or ride like it's been abused.
I'm going for an X-ring with the standard 16 T counter sprocket.
I'm familiar with the master linkless chains put on by the factory. I don't know why they started doing that. I guess they've been doing that for quite some time though. I prefer the clip type master myself.
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Old 07-24-2013, 03:00 PM   #79053
refokus
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Originally Posted by 8gv View Post
Do you have a link to their site? The one I found on google was not very intuitive. Thanks
The link to the site and the part number for the needle would be great.........
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Old 07-24-2013, 03:02 PM   #79054
joefromsf
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Originally Posted by refokus View Post
The link to the site and the part number for the needle would be great.........
Motolab has a thread in Vendors with parts and prices. Shouldn't be hard to find.
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Old 07-24-2013, 03:17 PM   #79055
TrophyHunter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rwroblin View Post
can anyone suggest a good throttle lock for my DR? i'd bought some POC from BBandit that did not work, too small to lock around the throttle tube or grip ... thx ...
I've had good luck with the Go Cruise....hopefully that's not the one you bought...or maybe it was the wrong bar size.
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Old 07-24-2013, 04:03 PM   #79056
Adv Grifter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brucifer View Post
Yeah, it's a DID 525. It was a clean break--one link completey gone.
I'm thinking it was just a bad link, not riveted together completely from the factory or something.
The bike itself is in like new condition--it doesn't look or ride like it's been abused.
I'm going for an X-ring with the standard 16 T counter sprocket.
I'm familiar with the master linkless chains put on by the factory. I don't know why they started doing that. I guess they've been doing that for quite some time though. I prefer the clip type master myself.
Strange, guess we'll never know the cause. Yes, Endless (linkless) chains have been around for decades. I'm guessing the manufacturers do it for liability reasons.

The standard front sprocket on the DR650 is 15T. If you ride mostly FAST freeway riding, then the 16T is not a bad idea ... but it will NOT BE an OEM Suzuki part ... so will only last about half as long as OEM sprocket. Your choice.

With a X Ring chain, a clip type master link would not be my choice? Why?
Wait until your try to install it ... you'll find out! It's not like putting master clip link on a O ring chain or old school non O ring chain. The side plates require some compression in order to be able to install the outer side plate and then slide the Jesus Clip into a locking position. (Ya' all know why the old timers call it a Jesus clip, right?)

Good luck with the "new" DR ... sounds like you found a very nice bike!

I think as time/miles go by you'll be surprised just how versatile the DR650 is. I'm interested in your evaluation of the DR650 since you have so much experience with a wide variety of Singles ... some of which I've owned over the years. (3 XR's, 1 XL, 1 XR650L) You're lucky to live in a area where you've got probably the BEST roads in the whole country. I've ridden them all for 30 years ... still my favorite riding area ... in the world. It can be our little secret!

Adv Grifter screwed with this post 07-24-2013 at 04:13 PM
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Old 07-24-2013, 04:18 PM   #79057
GSF1200S
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I'm beginning to think I should switch back to a stock rear sprocket and a 16 front here in the plains fuck. I have 16/45 now and I just dont think its good for the motor to do 5000 rpms for hours on end. I've been keeping it between 62-65 (actual mph gps calibrated, or 72-75 indicated). Had the 45 so I could gear down in Alaska. How are things out east? At least in the west/plains I can choose secondary highways and watch behind me. I'm worried all I'll find is freeways in the east.

To switch down I'll have to chop 2 links as I'm running 112 links now. Bike has been fine other than wheel bearings which I attribute to my many water crossings (new OEM before I left) and the cush bearing. Bike has 24k miles now and climbing. Valves haven't moved..

Anyone's thoughts on using inner tube to stiffen up rubbers. Had new cush rubbers when I left and 13k on them saw them loose. I cut pieces out of an old inner tube and hell, I almost think it would be better than new rubbers. No slop, and its sort of a two stage dampening system since the tube is softer than the rubbers.. ideas?
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Old 07-24-2013, 05:33 PM   #79058
Foot dragger
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GSF1200S View Post
I'm beginning to think I should switch back to a stock rear sprocket and a 16 front here in the plains fuck. I have 16/45 now and I just dont think its good for the motor to do 5000 rpms for hours on end. I've been keeping it between 62-65 (actual mph gps calibrated, or 72-75 indicated). Had the 45 so I could gear down in Alaska. How are things out east? At least in the west/plains I can choose secondary highways and watch behind me. I'm worried all I'll find is freeways in the east.

To switch down I'll have to chop 2 links as I'm running 112 links now. Bike has been fine other than wheel bearings which I attribute to my many water crossings (new OEM before I left) and the cush bearing. Bike has 24k miles now and climbing. Valves haven't moved..

Anyone's thoughts on using inner tube to stiffen up rubbers. Had new cush rubbers when I left and 13k on them saw them loose. I cut pieces out of an old inner tube and hell, I almost think it would be better than new rubbers. No slop, and its sort of a two stage dampening system since the tube is softer than the rubbers.. ideas?
I have run my DR at 85mph for hours on end with stock gearing,it gets great mileage and seems to like going down the hiway like that.
If you like using the inner tubes then do it,the cush rubbers on mine were barely loose at 28,000 miles. Odd yours wear so quick.
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Old 07-24-2013, 06:00 PM   #79059
Kommando
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GSF1200S View Post
I'm beginning to think I should switch back to a stock rear sprocket and a 16 front here in the plains fuck. I have 16/45 now and I just dont think its good for the motor to do 5000 rpms for hours on end. I've been keeping it between 62-65 (actual mph gps calibrated, or 72-75 indicated). Had the 45 so I could gear down in Alaska. How are things out east? At least in the west/plains I can choose secondary highways and watch behind me. I'm worried all I'll find is freeways in the east.

To switch down I'll have to chop 2 links as I'm running 112 links now. Bike has been fine other than wheel bearings which I attribute to my many water crossings (new OEM before I left) and the cush bearing. Bike has 24k miles now and climbing. Valves haven't moved..

Anyone's thoughts on using inner tube to stiffen up rubbers. Had new cush rubbers when I left and 13k on them saw them loose. I cut pieces out of an old inner tube and hell, I almost think it would be better than new rubbers. No slop, and its sort of a two stage dampening system since the tube is softer than the rubbers.. ideas?
Procycle sells a 17T front sprocket.

I just swapped on a 44T rear sprocket last night, and took the DR for a rip with the 14T front still on it. It seemed over-revved if I cruised at over 65MPH (indicated), but I have a 15T and 16T I can swap on too. I didn't like 16/42 on the slab with a passenger and near-stock power, but 16/44 should be like having the overseas 15/41 gearing, and 15/44 should be just a hair lower on revs than the popular offroad 14/42. The 16/44 will drop revs just slightly from the stock 15/42, but have more torque on the slab than 16/42. My DR needed just a hair more grunt on the slab with a passenger and 16/42, but I did like the lower revs and having a larger-radius bend around the front sprocket. The bike pulled it on the street just fine. If your DR makes over 40WHP, it might pull 16/42 fine while loaded down.

Innertube just plain works.
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Old 07-24-2013, 06:39 PM   #79060
Lil' Steve
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oldschoolsk8ter

Anybody use the Seat concepts "TALL" version?

I have seen the feedback on the standard and it is looking great from that end.

I am 6' 2" and am thinking about getting the "Tall".

Any pictures?? does it look odd with too much seat thickness?


Quote:
Originally Posted by Rusty Rocket View Post





Seat Concepts 1" Taller version. vs. stock
`
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Old 07-24-2013, 07:27 PM   #79061
refokus
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Quote:
Originally Posted by joefromsf View Post
Motolab has a thread in Vendors with parts and prices. Shouldn't be hard to find.
Thanks for the information. I didn't know that motolab had a spot on the vendor forum. I need to give him a call to order up a needle for my stock carb and hopefully that will smooth it out some. I also need to give it a thorough cleaning as well. Pine Sol.............
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Old 07-24-2013, 08:10 PM   #79062
SingleTrackJeff
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Location: Pensacola, Fl.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Low Budget View Post
Yes, a '06. Found locally in a very small rural town. Owned by 2 previous guys. Both older guys, never ridden off pavement, 4,000 miles.

Now owned by a little old guy who is gonna get it dirty once I get some good knobbyish tires on it !
Yea kinda like mine only ridden on Sundays by a senior citizen.

Did I mention it chases a bunch of KTMs trough the woods when it does get ridden.
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Old 07-24-2013, 08:12 PM   #79063
Emmbeedee
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Location: Near Ottawa, ON, Canada
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Adv Grifter View Post
(Ya' all know why the old timers call it a Jesus clip, right?)



Never thought about it that way, but I guess if you stare at it long enough, you might come to that conclusion.. Especially after liberal alcoholic lubrication.
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Old 07-24-2013, 09:01 PM   #79064
Adv Grifter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GSF1200S View Post
Anyone's thoughts on using inner tube to stiffen up rubbers. Had new cush rubbers when I left and 13k on them saw them loose. I cut pieces out of an old inner tube and hell, I almost think it would be better than new rubbers. No slop, and its sort of a two stage dampening system since the tube is softer than the rubbers.. ideas?
There have been a few riders who've done this ... I plan to try it in the near future. Once the hubb falls out easily ... it's time to firm it up. New rubber bumpers are expensive. Old tubes are free.

Most notable DR rider to use the inner tube bits would be Jammin Jay on his epic RTW DR650 Ride. He claimed it worked well and smoothed out the drive line some. Not sure who else has done it ... but recall reading about it from time to time.
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Old 07-24-2013, 09:09 PM   #79065
Adv Grifter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SingleTrackJeff View Post
I have noticed the last few rides that my 06 DR isn't locking into second well some times it comes out some times not. Some times it takes two hits on the shifter to get it in. Any thoughts?
Jeff,
I think someone mentioned the shift lever being lose and floppy? They ALL loosen up. I'm on my 3rd lever ... the internal splines wear and eventually you can no longer tighten up. So that's one thing.

The other common thing on a DR is if your shift lever has been bent IN ... it may be touching the case when you go to shift. The case can restrict movement ... which makes finding gears difficult. Good luck!

(also important to have the lever set to suit your boot size)
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