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Old 07-24-2013, 05:56 AM   #79051
Ever Onward
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Joined: May 2011
Location: Past the point of no return
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Motolab rocks !!

Just a big shout out to Derek at Motolab.

I got my carb parts in and went on a good test ride to see how good it works.


I started with a BONE STOCK DR engine / intake / exhaust. BONE STOCK ! No mods of any sort at all.....just like it would be in the showroom new.

The bike like that had a HUGE lean spot right off idle all the way through half throttle. It also was lean on idle circut, but not impossible lean.

I then drilled the brass plug outta the low speed mixture screw cavity, removed the stock screw, installed a extended length OEM genuine Mikuni screw in place of the stocker.

I then removed the stock needle in the slide. I replaced it with a 6f19 non usa needle I got from Motolab.

This needle has 5 clip positions to choose from, much like any old Mikuni VM from back in the day.

I started in the middle position. Warmed the bike up fully, adjusted the idle mixture screw as per Derek's method. I then tried the bike.

Still stumbling lean at 1/8 to 1/4 throttle. Took the needle out and lowered the clip one spot, which makes the fuel mixture richer. PERFECT !!!!!

Bike runs super clean, any throttle position is great, excellent transitions between throttle positions, no "Lean exhaust burbles or backfires" under heavy decelleration on steep downhills.

It was kinda windy yesterday and I went on a 120 mile test. Im at 1200 feet above sea level, running non ethenol fuel on pavement at 60 MPH for the test.......results ? 56 MPG




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Old 07-24-2013, 06:37 AM   #79052
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Very cool low budget. I may go this route myself. Cost?
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Old 07-24-2013, 07:49 AM   #79053
Ever Onward
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Under $30 for the 5 position main needle and the genuine Mikuni idle circut extended screw from Motolab.

Worth double that considering how well it carburates now !!

No need for any other tinkering at all, if you leave everything else bone stock.

And, its a 10 minute deal to change the setup for big changes in altitude or temp if you wanna get it dialed in perfect when encountering big changes.
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Old 07-24-2013, 07:54 AM   #79054
SkunkWizard
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Low Budget View Post




Is that a 2006?
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Old 07-24-2013, 08:29 AM   #79055
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Yes, a '06. Found locally in a very small rural town. Owned by 2 previous guys. Both older guys, never ridden off pavement, 4,000 miles.

Now owned by a little old guy who is gonna get it dirty once I get some good knobbyish tires on it !
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Old 07-24-2013, 08:44 AM   #79056
belleringer
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throttle lock/cruise control

can anyone suggest a good throttle lock for my DR? i'd bought some POC from BBandit that did not work, too small to lock around the throttle tube or grip ... thx ...
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Old 07-24-2013, 08:52 AM   #79057
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Old 07-24-2013, 12:29 PM   #79058
8gv
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Low Budget View Post
Under $30 for the 5 position main needle and the genuine Mikuni idle circut extended screw from Motolab.

Worth double that considering how well it carburates now !!

No need for any other tinkering at all, if you leave everything else bone stock.

And, its a 10 minute deal to change the setup for big changes in altitude or temp if you wanna get it dialed in perfect when encountering big changes.
Do you have a link to their site? The one I found on google was not very intuitive. Thanks
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Old 07-24-2013, 01:25 PM   #79059
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Anybody use the Seat concepts "TALL" version?

I have seen the feedback on the standard and it is looking great from that end.

I am 6' 2" and am thinking about getting the "Tall".

Any pictures?? does it look odd with too much seat thickness?
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Old 07-24-2013, 01:44 PM   #79060
brucifer
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Location: Eureka, Ca.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Adv Grifter View Post
You can buy another plastic sprocket cover for cheap here on Flea Market.
Stock counter shaft (front) sprocket is 15T. A 14T is also commonly used for guys going off road. If the 14T was installed incorrectly ... well that could have broken your chain.

It's unlikely chain was cut, but who knows? A DID 525 O ring is the stock chain. If you have a 520 chain/sprockets on there ... it should say so on the chain links: DID/525 or DID/520. Both sizes can work, but 525 will last longer. The stock chain from Suzuki is an Endless chain ... no master link at all. It is installed at the factory when the swing arm is off. So if you do NOT find a master link ... then your broken chain is the original, stock DID O Ring chain.

There are BETTER chains for the DR650 beyond the stock chain. The stock chain typically lasts 10K -14K miles depending on use. A premium DID X Ring chain can go past 24,000 miles.

To break even a worn out stock chain is hard to do. Couple things are possible in your case:
1. P.O. did LOTS of wheelies, rode the bike very hard off road, lots of really hairy jumps/hard landings.
2. Chain was adjusted way too tight. This will quickly wear out the chain and at some point it could break ... but still, overall this is something quite RARE around here. Even the Aussies don't break many chains.

I would buy new Suzuki Sprockets (stock sizes) and a Premium DID X Ring chain, I think a 112 or 114 link chain will do. NO ... you do not need to remove swing arm to install your new chain. Use a master link. I like Rivet link master links rather than a clip type master link, but both are OK if installed correctly. Most shops will want to do the more secure Rivet link.
Yeah, it's a DID 525. It was a clean break--one link completey gone.
I'm thinking it was just a bad link, not riveted together completely from the factory or something.
The bike itself is in like new condition--it doesn't look or ride like it's been abused.
I'm going for an X-ring with the standard 16 T counter sprocket.
I'm familiar with the master linkless chains put on by the factory. I don't know why they started doing that. I guess they've been doing that for quite some time though. I prefer the clip type master myself.
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Old 07-24-2013, 02:00 PM   #79061
refokus
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 8gv View Post
Do you have a link to their site? The one I found on google was not very intuitive. Thanks
The link to the site and the part number for the needle would be great.........
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Old 07-24-2013, 02:02 PM   #79062
joefromsf
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Quote:
Originally Posted by refokus View Post
The link to the site and the part number for the needle would be great.........
Motolab has a thread in Vendors with parts and prices. Shouldn't be hard to find.
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Old 07-24-2013, 02:17 PM   #79063
TrophyHunter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rwroblin View Post
can anyone suggest a good throttle lock for my DR? i'd bought some POC from BBandit that did not work, too small to lock around the throttle tube or grip ... thx ...
I've had good luck with the Go Cruise....hopefully that's not the one you bought...or maybe it was the wrong bar size.
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Old 07-24-2013, 03:03 PM   #79064
Adv Grifter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brucifer View Post
Yeah, it's a DID 525. It was a clean break--one link completey gone.
I'm thinking it was just a bad link, not riveted together completely from the factory or something.
The bike itself is in like new condition--it doesn't look or ride like it's been abused.
I'm going for an X-ring with the standard 16 T counter sprocket.
I'm familiar with the master linkless chains put on by the factory. I don't know why they started doing that. I guess they've been doing that for quite some time though. I prefer the clip type master myself.
Strange, guess we'll never know the cause. Yes, Endless (linkless) chains have been around for decades. I'm guessing the manufacturers do it for liability reasons.

The standard front sprocket on the DR650 is 15T. If you ride mostly FAST freeway riding, then the 16T is not a bad idea ... but it will NOT BE an OEM Suzuki part ... so will only last about half as long as OEM sprocket. Your choice.

With a X Ring chain, a clip type master link would not be my choice? Why?
Wait until your try to install it ... you'll find out! It's not like putting master clip link on a O ring chain or old school non O ring chain. The side plates require some compression in order to be able to install the outer side plate and then slide the Jesus Clip into a locking position. (Ya' all know why the old timers call it a Jesus clip, right?)

Good luck with the "new" DR ... sounds like you found a very nice bike!

I think as time/miles go by you'll be surprised just how versatile the DR650 is. I'm interested in your evaluation of the DR650 since you have so much experience with a wide variety of Singles ... some of which I've owned over the years. (3 XR's, 1 XL, 1 XR650L) You're lucky to live in a area where you've got probably the BEST roads in the whole country. I've ridden them all for 30 years ... still my favorite riding area ... in the world. It can be our little secret!

Adv Grifter screwed with this post 07-24-2013 at 03:13 PM
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Old 07-24-2013, 03:18 PM   #79065
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I'm beginning to think I should switch back to a stock rear sprocket and a 16 front here in the plains fuck. I have 16/45 now and I just dont think its good for the motor to do 5000 rpms for hours on end. I've been keeping it between 62-65 (actual mph gps calibrated, or 72-75 indicated). Had the 45 so I could gear down in Alaska. How are things out east? At least in the west/plains I can choose secondary highways and watch behind me. I'm worried all I'll find is freeways in the east.

To switch down I'll have to chop 2 links as I'm running 112 links now. Bike has been fine other than wheel bearings which I attribute to my many water crossings (new OEM before I left) and the cush bearing. Bike has 24k miles now and climbing. Valves haven't moved..

Anyone's thoughts on using inner tube to stiffen up rubbers. Had new cush rubbers when I left and 13k on them saw them loose. I cut pieces out of an old inner tube and hell, I almost think it would be better than new rubbers. No slop, and its sort of a two stage dampening system since the tube is softer than the rubbers.. ideas?
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