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Old 09-23-2013, 10:04 PM   #81781
Adv Grifter
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Location: Passing ADV Stalkers in California
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GSF1200S View Post
My VX2 was shot in 13k, though I was cleaning it with WD40 and that might be why. Also had plenty of rain and mud and sand, but still. Im curious as to how long my RK Xring lasts- has 12k now and it still seems like new.
That is good news ... I've been waiting 20 years for RK to catch back up with DID. I'm not surprised to hear of the VX2. It's about money now.

I ran many RK chains in the 80's racing enduros until a broken RK cost me a podium spot. In those days (bad old days) I would wear out a chain on my dirt bike in under 3000 miles ... if you took good care of it. My My, how things have changed! RK really fell off the wagon and DID moved forward. Finally, I see movement from RK.
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Old 09-24-2013, 02:30 AM   #81782
TRAVELGUY
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GSF1200S View Post
My VX2 was shot in 13k, though I was cleaning it with WD40 and that might be why. Also had plenty of rain and mud and sand, but still. Im curious as to how long my RK Xring lasts- has 12k now and it still seems like new.
I have only used WD40 on chains for the past 16 years with great success. On my last DR650 the stock chain lasted more than 14K miles. Have had a V Strom with the stock chain lasting over 40K miles. Current V STrom 1000 has over 25K on the clock and orginal chain is still good. Only washing/cleaning the chains with WD40 when dirty.

TravelGuy
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Old 09-24-2013, 03:23 AM   #81783
Emmbeedee
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JBird View Post
Do the rubber mount Pro Taper 1 1/8" adapters work on the DR650? They aren't listed as compatible.

If not - what do I use?
I like the 1 1/8" Rox Risers, which come with 7/8" adaptors in case you're not ready to change up when you install them.



But Procycle has a number of options at reasonable prices too.
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Old 09-24-2013, 06:37 AM   #81784
Rusty Rocket
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Emmbeedee View Post
I like the 1 1/8" Rox Risers, which come with 7/8" adaptors in case you're not ready to change up when you install them.



But Procycle has a number of options at reasonable prices too.
Great product. Allows all kinds of adjustments forward & back. High quality and reasonably priced. I have them on my KTM.
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Old 09-24-2013, 06:40 AM   #81785
Rusty Rocket
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Adv Grifter View Post
I'm running Pro Taper adapters on my DR. Seems fine. Gives a bit of rise, no need to lengthen cables or anything. I also retained the rubber dampers below the stock adapter.

Not good pic, but there they are. Cycle Gear had them for $50 back in '06 when this pic was taken.
Where's the other throttle cable?
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Old 09-24-2013, 06:43 AM   #81786
Mambo Dave
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Quote:
Originally Posted by paynebrody View Post
Hey Dave, I totally agree with you. I sort of got it on there in a hurry with the intention of pulling it to bits and smoothing everything out. The sharp bits bother me. I run the CNC mill at work so I might even make something a little less scrappy.. I currently have a Givi top box strapped on for commuting. Pretty wussy but great for commuting and weighs nothing. It would implode in a crash I reckon

Have you started building yet? I'd like to see some non welded examples. Also trying to figure out some non welded side racks...
Brody
Brody, I am welding.

A couple of years ago I decided to fulfill my wish to learn to weld, so I bought a Lincoln Mig with a tank of shielding gas, 5/8" tubing, and a 5/8" tubing hand-bender.

I could take pictures of what I've finished thus far, but it doesn't sound like that's what you're looking for.

You already are more of an expert than I with metals and CNC'ing, so I suggest you get yourself a lower cost welder and have at it. between the CNC and the welding you could make some great designs and attachment points I'd guess.
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Old 09-24-2013, 07:29 AM   #81787
Quarterbore
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MrBob View Post
Yes, heat is an issue - same behavior with mine. Reduced tolerances?
I searched this out and my new to me 1997 with about 9500 miles on it would not shift into neutral when running too. I backed off the clutch cable a little and now it has no trouble finding neutral even when warm. Now I have to make sure I flip it up hard when pulling out or she will drop into neutral instead of second

Still, it's nice to have neutral working as in heavy traffic it's nice to put it in neutral so I don't have to keep holding that clutch at red lights.
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Old 09-24-2013, 07:58 AM   #81788
GSF1200S
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TRAVELGUY View Post
I have only used WD40 on chains for the past 16 years with great success. On my last DR650 the stock chain lasted more than 14K miles. Have had a V Strom with the stock chain lasting over 40K miles. Current V STrom 1000 has over 25K on the clock and orginal chain is still good. Only washing/cleaning the chains with WD40 when dirty.

TravelGuy
Do you spray a rag with WD40 and wipe off the chain or blast the WD40 straight on the chain like I was doing? The VX2 hadnt stretched yet but it was kinking BAD and taking apart the master link revealed no grease and rusted dry pins. I actually had that chain put on at a small shop who did my suspension and has a very good reputation- him and I were doing a few things on the bike before I left for the trip. I remember the plate pressed on with the right amount of squish on the orings and that it had grease and all.. I dont understand how else the orings would fail in so many places..

Maybe the VX2s just suck that bad and I was expecting more due to the VM2? I now clean my chain with diesel if its real bad. I have found that cheapo Liquid Wrench brand Chain Lube is pretty good- it has mineral spirits as one of the ingredients and really spraying the chain with it than wiping it off seems to 1) clean it 2) lube it 3) prevent excess lube from attracting dirt. Every advance auto parts in CONUS has a small motorcycle section and generally has some cans of this stuff (and mobil 1 10-40w full synthetic for other purposes).
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Old 09-24-2013, 10:56 AM   #81789
Adv Grifter
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Location: Passing ADV Stalkers in California
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rusty Rocket View Post
Where's the other throttle cable?
I took it off to go faster!
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Old 09-24-2013, 11:15 AM   #81790
Adv Grifter
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Location: Passing ADV Stalkers in California
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GSF1200S View Post
Do you spray a rag with WD40 and wipe off the chain or blast the WD40 straight on the chain like I was doing? The VX2 hadnt stretched yet but it was kinking BAD and taking apart the master link revealed no grease and rusted dry pins. I actually had that chain put on at a small shop who did my suspension and has a very good reputation- him and I were doing a few things on the bike before I left for the trip. I remember the plate pressed on with the right amount of squish on the orings and that it had grease and all.. I dont understand how else the orings would fail in so many places..

Maybe the VX2s just suck that bad and I was expecting more due to the VM2? I now clean my chain with diesel if its real bad. I have found that cheapo Liquid Wrench brand Chain Lube is pretty good- it has mineral spirits as one of the ingredients and really spraying the chain with it than wiping it off seems to 1) clean it 2) lube it 3) prevent excess lube from attracting dirt. Every advance auto parts in CONUS has a small motorcycle section and generally has some cans of this stuff (and mobil 1 10-40w full synthetic for other purposes).
Kinking is not good. You are not cleaning/oiling chain enough. Sometimes you can resurrect kinks with a good cleaning/ oiling.

Speaking of cleaning .... WD40 is fine. Won't get past O rings. I don't use it for lube, just for cleaning grunge off chain and sprockets ... but Diesel is OK ... and cheaper! WD is a water dispersant ... so good rust inhibitor, but wears off in just minutes on the road or off road.

I'm thinking during your last 14K miles of AK, Canada and all over USA, you've done lots of rain, dirt and mud. Hard on chains. BUT ... that said, I'm thinking your guy did a poor job on the clip link install, did not use enough of the correct lube. If the chain still has life ... I'd replace the clip link with a properly installed Rivet Link, new O rings and plenty of the white grease. It should NOT be rusted this soon.

I don't soak my chain with WD or Diesel ... just enough to clean it off. Putting some on a rag is fine. It's elbow grease that gets the job done anyway.

I don't like any thick, gooey or sticky chain lube. On the road I use 90 wt. gear oil. Cheap, sold everywhere. Around town, I use Dupont Teflon lube. I clean and re-oil my chain everyday when on the road. When riding LONG dirt sections I use NO chain lube at all. DRY.

Once back on road I clean and re-oil.
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Old 09-24-2013, 02:02 PM   #81791
FirstPath
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I've heard of people using kerosene to clean their chains. I'm not sure I want to try that.
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Old 09-24-2013, 02:45 PM   #81792
GSF1200S
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Adv Grifter View Post
Kinking is not good. You are not cleaning/oiling chain enough. Sometimes you can resurrect kinks with a good cleaning/ oiling.

Speaking of cleaning .... WD40 is fine. Won't get past O rings. I don't use it for lube, just for cleaning grunge off chain and sprockets ... but Diesel is OK ... and cheaper! WD is a water dispersant ... so good rust inhibitor, but wears off in just minutes on the road or off road.

I'm thinking during your last 14K miles of AK, Canada and all over USA, you've done lots of rain, dirt and mud. Hard on chains. BUT ... that said, I'm thinking your guy did a poor job on the clip link install, did not use enough of the correct lube. If the chain still has life ... I'd replace the clip link with a properly installed Rivet Link, new O rings and plenty of the white grease. It should NOT be rusted this soon.

I don't soak my chain with WD or Diesel ... just enough to clean it off. Putting some on a rag is fine. It's elbow grease that gets the job done anyway.

I don't like any thick, gooey or sticky chain lube. On the road I use 90 wt. gear oil. Cheap, sold everywhere. Around town, I use Dupont Teflon lube. I clean and re-oil my chain everyday when on the road. When riding LONG dirt sections I use NO chain lube at all. DRY.

Once back on road I clean and re-oil.
Take my word for it- I absolutely was fanatical with any and all maintenance on the road. I cleaned that chain every time I came of dirt, every 100 miles or so on the road, etc. I cleaned with a rag and if really bad a very soft brush to ensure i didnt push crap past the orings. The chain was kinking in multiple places not just the master link. That said, I used the bel ray offroad lube a lot, and plenty of shit stuck to it. It might just have been that lube (you can find it at just about any moto place) or that I simply had too much rain, mud, water crossings, and sand to save the chain. I ran the chain dry in dirt, but i did many thousands of miles in dirt. Glad I didn't use a 520

My system of diesel and either silicone lube (just to stop rust and lube orings but little roller protection) or cheapo liquid wrench chain lube seems to work great on the RK. Now that I'm back, I will get a gallon of kerosene for my spray bottle to clean and use gear oil for lube as many including you suggest.

I'm thinking I'll clean and then apply gear oil, then firmly wipe off excess with a rag so as not to attract dirt for my dual-sporting. Sound about right?

Many setups people talk about are great for local, but are hard or impossible to sustain on the road.
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Old 09-24-2013, 03:55 PM   #81793
stretch160
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FirstPath View Post
I've heard of people using kerosene to clean their chains. I'm not sure I want to try that.
kerosene is what is recomended for chain cleaning in most owners manuals.
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Old 09-24-2013, 04:17 PM   #81794
Mongle
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Location: North Carolina Y'all
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stretch160 View Post
kerosene is what is recomended for chain cleaning in most owners manuals.
Yep, Section 2-10 of the DR650 shop manual: "wash the chain with kerosene"

It also specifically says to oil the chain with "heavy weight motor oil"
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Old 09-24-2013, 04:25 PM   #81795
GaThumper
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Location: Thumpin' in North GA - headin' for the Smokys
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Adv Grifter View Post
Same here. I've ridden with guys running 520 chains ... and seen them disintegrate a bit earlier than I thought they would. (DRZ400S, KTM640) (only 10 to 12K miles)

My OEM original DID O ring chain (a 525) on my DR went about 12K miles. Next up, DID VM2 X ring, 525 chain. 24,000 miles using two front sprockets. That chain had no kinks at 24K and could have gone A LOT further, but since I was starting a long, out of country ride, I replaced everything.

Current chain is another DID VM2 X ring, 525. Now around 16K miles. Looks like new. On 2nd front sprocket, will add a 3rd at 20K miles. Makes a nice difference.

Sadly, the DID VM2 chains are harder to find now and very very expensive (about $190 usd). But I'll still run one when time comes. I'm not convinced DID's "NEW" VX series chains are even close in longevity to the old VM2. Time will tell. Early reports suggest about 15K chain life. (I'm not impressed! )

As mentioned, you can run either size chain. The 525 is quite a bit stronger and not much heavier. With the available gearing out there, I no longer see an advantage to the 520, even out of the USA.

Start your trip with ALL NEW chain/sprockets, bring 2 or 3 spare front sprockets ... and you should be good for OVER 25,000 miles. If you ride constant rain, lots of mud, then reduce that figure by around 5000 miles or so. Rain and MUD are very hard on chain and sprockets. Out of the USA it can be quite hard to find a decent chain or sprockets, even if it's a 520. Never count on finding something good unless in Europe or USA. Most available items are from China, and brand name items are often "bottom of the line". Some OK, some not so OK.
Thanks for posting up your experiences with the DID VM2! I went looking and found as you said they are just about extinct. Found a couple for around $150 plus shipping, and found ONE new one on Ebay for $135 and went ahead and snagged it for my next set.

Running a 14 front with the stock rear now and for the type of riding I do I never even swap in the 15. I stay off the interstate and stick to 2 lane blacktop when possible. Thinking I'll go to a larger rear sproket when I wear out the stockers and go back to a 15 on the front (with a 14 packed for mountain goat trails).

Never done it before, but it makes sense to swap out the front 14 at about 7500 miles and again at about 15k and see where I get from there.

For cleaning I use WD40 and Dupont Teflon for lube. Seems to be working well, but I'm still reading and learning.
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