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Old 09-24-2013, 11:56 AM   #81781
Adv Grifter
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Location: Passing ADV Stalkers in California
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Originally Posted by Rusty Rocket View Post
Where's the other throttle cable?
I took it off to go faster!
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Old 09-24-2013, 12:15 PM   #81782
Adv Grifter
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Originally Posted by GSF1200S View Post
Do you spray a rag with WD40 and wipe off the chain or blast the WD40 straight on the chain like I was doing? The VX2 hadnt stretched yet but it was kinking BAD and taking apart the master link revealed no grease and rusted dry pins. I actually had that chain put on at a small shop who did my suspension and has a very good reputation- him and I were doing a few things on the bike before I left for the trip. I remember the plate pressed on with the right amount of squish on the orings and that it had grease and all.. I dont understand how else the orings would fail in so many places..

Maybe the VX2s just suck that bad and I was expecting more due to the VM2? I now clean my chain with diesel if its real bad. I have found that cheapo Liquid Wrench brand Chain Lube is pretty good- it has mineral spirits as one of the ingredients and really spraying the chain with it than wiping it off seems to 1) clean it 2) lube it 3) prevent excess lube from attracting dirt. Every advance auto parts in CONUS has a small motorcycle section and generally has some cans of this stuff (and mobil 1 10-40w full synthetic for other purposes).
Kinking is not good. You are not cleaning/oiling chain enough. Sometimes you can resurrect kinks with a good cleaning/ oiling.

Speaking of cleaning .... WD40 is fine. Won't get past O rings. I don't use it for lube, just for cleaning grunge off chain and sprockets ... but Diesel is OK ... and cheaper! WD is a water dispersant ... so good rust inhibitor, but wears off in just minutes on the road or off road.

I'm thinking during your last 14K miles of AK, Canada and all over USA, you've done lots of rain, dirt and mud. Hard on chains. BUT ... that said, I'm thinking your guy did a poor job on the clip link install, did not use enough of the correct lube. If the chain still has life ... I'd replace the clip link with a properly installed Rivet Link, new O rings and plenty of the white grease. It should NOT be rusted this soon.

I don't soak my chain with WD or Diesel ... just enough to clean it off. Putting some on a rag is fine. It's elbow grease that gets the job done anyway.

I don't like any thick, gooey or sticky chain lube. On the road I use 90 wt. gear oil. Cheap, sold everywhere. Around town, I use Dupont Teflon lube. I clean and re-oil my chain everyday when on the road. When riding LONG dirt sections I use NO chain lube at all. DRY.

Once back on road I clean and re-oil.
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Old 09-24-2013, 03:02 PM   #81783
FirstPath
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I've heard of people using kerosene to clean their chains. I'm not sure I want to try that.
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Old 09-24-2013, 03:45 PM   #81784
GSF1200S
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Originally Posted by Adv Grifter View Post
Kinking is not good. You are not cleaning/oiling chain enough. Sometimes you can resurrect kinks with a good cleaning/ oiling.

Speaking of cleaning .... WD40 is fine. Won't get past O rings. I don't use it for lube, just for cleaning grunge off chain and sprockets ... but Diesel is OK ... and cheaper! WD is a water dispersant ... so good rust inhibitor, but wears off in just minutes on the road or off road.

I'm thinking during your last 14K miles of AK, Canada and all over USA, you've done lots of rain, dirt and mud. Hard on chains. BUT ... that said, I'm thinking your guy did a poor job on the clip link install, did not use enough of the correct lube. If the chain still has life ... I'd replace the clip link with a properly installed Rivet Link, new O rings and plenty of the white grease. It should NOT be rusted this soon.

I don't soak my chain with WD or Diesel ... just enough to clean it off. Putting some on a rag is fine. It's elbow grease that gets the job done anyway.

I don't like any thick, gooey or sticky chain lube. On the road I use 90 wt. gear oil. Cheap, sold everywhere. Around town, I use Dupont Teflon lube. I clean and re-oil my chain everyday when on the road. When riding LONG dirt sections I use NO chain lube at all. DRY.

Once back on road I clean and re-oil.
Take my word for it- I absolutely was fanatical with any and all maintenance on the road. I cleaned that chain every time I came of dirt, every 100 miles or so on the road, etc. I cleaned with a rag and if really bad a very soft brush to ensure i didnt push crap past the orings. The chain was kinking in multiple places not just the master link. That said, I used the bel ray offroad lube a lot, and plenty of shit stuck to it. It might just have been that lube (you can find it at just about any moto place) or that I simply had too much rain, mud, water crossings, and sand to save the chain. I ran the chain dry in dirt, but i did many thousands of miles in dirt. Glad I didn't use a 520

My system of diesel and either silicone lube (just to stop rust and lube orings but little roller protection) or cheapo liquid wrench chain lube seems to work great on the RK. Now that I'm back, I will get a gallon of kerosene for my spray bottle to clean and use gear oil for lube as many including you suggest.

I'm thinking I'll clean and then apply gear oil, then firmly wipe off excess with a rag so as not to attract dirt for my dual-sporting. Sound about right?

Many setups people talk about are great for local, but are hard or impossible to sustain on the road.
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Old 09-24-2013, 04:55 PM   #81785
stretch160
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Originally Posted by FirstPath View Post
I've heard of people using kerosene to clean their chains. I'm not sure I want to try that.
kerosene is what is recomended for chain cleaning in most owners manuals.
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Old 09-24-2013, 05:17 PM   #81786
Mongle
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Originally Posted by stretch160 View Post
kerosene is what is recomended for chain cleaning in most owners manuals.
Yep, Section 2-10 of the DR650 shop manual: "wash the chain with kerosene"

It also specifically says to oil the chain with "heavy weight motor oil"
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Old 09-24-2013, 05:25 PM   #81787
GaThumper
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Originally Posted by Adv Grifter View Post
Same here. I've ridden with guys running 520 chains ... and seen them disintegrate a bit earlier than I thought they would. (DRZ400S, KTM640) (only 10 to 12K miles)

My OEM original DID O ring chain (a 525) on my DR went about 12K miles. Next up, DID VM2 X ring, 525 chain. 24,000 miles using two front sprockets. That chain had no kinks at 24K and could have gone A LOT further, but since I was starting a long, out of country ride, I replaced everything.

Current chain is another DID VM2 X ring, 525. Now around 16K miles. Looks like new. On 2nd front sprocket, will add a 3rd at 20K miles. Makes a nice difference.

Sadly, the DID VM2 chains are harder to find now and very very expensive (about $190 usd). But I'll still run one when time comes. I'm not convinced DID's "NEW" VX series chains are even close in longevity to the old VM2. Time will tell. Early reports suggest about 15K chain life. (I'm not impressed! )

As mentioned, you can run either size chain. The 525 is quite a bit stronger and not much heavier. With the available gearing out there, I no longer see an advantage to the 520, even out of the USA.

Start your trip with ALL NEW chain/sprockets, bring 2 or 3 spare front sprockets ... and you should be good for OVER 25,000 miles. If you ride constant rain, lots of mud, then reduce that figure by around 5000 miles or so. Rain and MUD are very hard on chain and sprockets. Out of the USA it can be quite hard to find a decent chain or sprockets, even if it's a 520. Never count on finding something good unless in Europe or USA. Most available items are from China, and brand name items are often "bottom of the line". Some OK, some not so OK.
Thanks for posting up your experiences with the DID VM2! I went looking and found as you said they are just about extinct. Found a couple for around $150 plus shipping, and found ONE new one on Ebay for $135 and went ahead and snagged it for my next set.

Running a 14 front with the stock rear now and for the type of riding I do I never even swap in the 15. I stay off the interstate and stick to 2 lane blacktop when possible. Thinking I'll go to a larger rear sproket when I wear out the stockers and go back to a 15 on the front (with a 14 packed for mountain goat trails).

Never done it before, but it makes sense to swap out the front 14 at about 7500 miles and again at about 15k and see where I get from there.

For cleaning I use WD40 and Dupont Teflon for lube. Seems to be working well, but I'm still reading and learning.
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Old 09-24-2013, 05:49 PM   #81788
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Originally Posted by GaThumper View Post
Thanks for posting up your experiences with the DID VM2! I went looking and found as you said they are just about extinct. Found a couple for around $150 plus shipping, and found ONE new one on Ebay for $135 and went ahead and snagged it for my next set.

Running a 14 front with the stock rear now and for the type of riding I do I never even swap in the 15. I stay off the interstate and stick to 2 lane blacktop when possible. Thinking I'll go to a larger rear sproket when I wear out the stockers and go back to a 15 on the front (with a 14 packed for mountain goat trails).

Never done it before, but it makes sense to swap out the front 14 at about 7500 miles and again at about 15k and see where I get from there.

For cleaning I use WD40 and Dupont Teflon for lube. Seems to be working well, but I'm still reading and learning.
Wouldn't it be nice if we could go back to fully enclosed chains, perhaps running through an oil bath sump? Kind of reminds me of the "advance" we made in fork design by getting rid of the accordion boots on most bikes. Fork seals RIP.
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Old 09-24-2013, 08:19 PM   #81789
PPCLI-Jim
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Originally Posted by FlowBee View Post
Wouldn't it be nice if we could go back to fully enclosed chains, perhaps running through an oil bath sump? Kind of reminds me of the "advance" we made in fork design by getting rid of the accordion boots on most bikes. Fork seals RIP.

Yup but think of the other advances we have 40+ mm upside down Forks just one of many
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Old 09-24-2013, 08:27 PM   #81790
Emmbeedee
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Originally Posted by FlowBee View Post
Wouldn't it be nice if we could go back to fully enclosed chains, perhaps running through an oil bath sump? Kind of reminds me of the "advance" we made in fork design by getting rid of the accordion boots on most bikes. Fork seals RIP.
The most recent/modern bike I remember with a fully enclosed chaincase is the Jawa 350. It also had a Jikov carb, required you to mix the gas/oil mix, and the 2 smoke engine could be persuaded to run backwards if it backfired while starting.

Personally, I don't miss those days at all.
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Old 09-24-2013, 08:59 PM   #81791
eakins
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if you're on the fence with a wolfman system
http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=922096
no word if briggs is still selling them direct after the fact.
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Old 09-24-2013, 09:06 PM   #81792
procycle
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Originally Posted by FlowBee View Post
Wouldn't it be nice if we could go back to fully enclosed chains, perhaps running through an oil bath sump?
Something like that would require going back to having only 4 inches of travel. I definitely would not take that trade off.
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Old 09-24-2013, 09:08 PM   #81793
175grams
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Quick wiring question about my '01 DR650. I've heard a lot of people mention a spare lead behind the headlight cowl that can be used for a 12V outlet. Do I need to add an inline fuse to that lead or is it already protected?

Thanks.
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Old 09-24-2013, 09:13 PM   #81794
procycle
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Originally Posted by eakins View Post
no word if briggs is still selling them direct after the fact.
Nope. This is a done deal. Both parties are moving on to new things.

I just spent half of the day today with the Wolfman folks. We talked quite a bit about their decision to get out of the metal business. As you might imagine this affects ProCycle in a big way. Not to worry, there will be other options and different solutions.
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Old 09-24-2013, 09:19 PM   #81795
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Crap, that's bad news. My Wolfman sideracks are a real quality product.
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