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Old 10-25-2013, 07:54 PM   #82981
Foot dragger
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FlowBee View Post
Have you fixed the NSU issue yet? Neutral issues, especially with regard to the neutral light, are a warning sign that your NSU might be getting ready to take a crap on your engine. It could be the bolts that hold your NSU in place have loosened up and are getting ready to fall out (potentially destroying your engine). Google "DR650 NSU" for more info.

Beyond that I'd suggest changing your oil / filter and see if that helps. Old oil can have an effect on how the transmission feels when shifting.

edit add: also check that the bolt securing your shift lever is tight and secured with Loctite blue. A loose bolt on the shift lever can mimic transmission / clutch issues.
OK.educate me,how does a neutral light effect rather a DR will go into neutral easily or not?

And why would being hard to slip into neutral mean maybe the NSU screws are falling out ? These 2 items are not related.
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Old 10-25-2013, 08:20 PM   #82982
MrBob
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gaahrdner View Post
I'm finding it difficult to get into neutral gear. I measured the play of the clutch lever and it is within spec, and when I had the case off and measured the plates they were OK as well. What else should I do, or is it a known issue?
Go back a few pages. This issue was extensively discussed since many of us are dealing with it. Cable adjustments rarely solve the problem.
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Old 10-25-2013, 08:50 PM   #82983
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Foot dragger View Post
OK.educate me,how does a neutral light effect rather a DR will go into neutral easily or not?

And why would being hard to slip into neutral mean maybe the NSU screws are falling out ? These 2 items are not related.
Why so hostile?

How do you judge whether your bike is actually in neutral or not? Most of us rely upon the green neutral light, which is triggered by the NSU. And if you judge a difficulty in getting the bike into neutral by the green neutral light then you will mis-diagnose an issue with your transmission. The most common issue with the NSU is, of course, the screws backing out and allowing slop in the engagement point of the neutral position.

And if it's not the NSU, are you sure it wasn't one of the other two alternatives?

This isn't JM. I'm just trying to help, ferchrissake.
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Old 10-25-2013, 09:56 PM   #82984
ER70S-2
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Wow, I'm a whole page behind; may have been 205'd

Quote:
Originally Posted by Rocktown View Post
.............. If I had that I wouldn't be worried about the small amount of torque a Cush drive displaces. Its Understandable why you would want a Cush drive with that beastly thumper. That's awesome.
The following will make sense if you've towed someone with both a chain and then with a nylon tow strap.

Towing with a chain requires a skilled driver with a soft touch on the throttle. If not, the snatching chain will shake every nut and bolt in both vehicles. With a nylon strap, even a teenage girl (while texting) can tow a second vehicle with no conflict. However there will still be drama. With women, there will always be drama.

I don't know why you think a cush hub costs torque, it just cushions the hammering to the driveline of a 650 single with a power stroke once every 720 degrees of rotation. At 4000 rpm that's 2000 impacts per minute, think Jackhammer. Take your bike out and short shift at 2800-3000, roll the throttle on. Feel that banging in the footpegs? It's always there, that's why doG invented cush hubs.

Dirt bikes don't have cush hubs because the cushioning is taken care of by the slippage of the tire against dirt surface.

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Old 10-25-2013, 10:05 PM   #82985
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blugg1 View Post
I have the same problem imprezagm4 has. If I don't shift up into neutral just before I stop, forget getting it out of first gear. Yet, if I turn off the engine it comes out of first like butter.
Hmmm, dunno. Maybe it's as simple as guys who have certain year DR's and liked them better than other years they've owned...? Miles on clutch, adjustments? Strange, but they're machines.

FlowBee - my understanding of Footdragger's comment was that whether your NSU is loose or not really doesn't affect if the actual shifting mechanism works. Some people just remove the NSU altogether so it's not directly tied to the function of the transmission. It's an indicator of the transmissions position. At least that's my understanding of it - but I've been wrong several times - today.
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Old 10-25-2013, 10:06 PM   #82986
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About the vibes in the pegs. There's an rpm range on my bike where I can feel it pretty good in my pegs. Compared to most of the rpm range it feels noticeable to me. It's what I'd expect near the top of the tach when the motor is making maximum power but it's a midrange rpm phenomena. I'm at 6000 heavily laden miles.

Could this be EOCDS?
(early onset cush drive syndrome)
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Old 10-25-2013, 10:16 PM   #82987
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Both of my DR's had that issue until I took what seems like I have taken all the play out of the lever adjustment. Then went into neutral no problem. With cable adjust like that I never had any problems for more that 20k miles.

TravelGuy

Quote:
Originally Posted by gaahrdner View Post
I'm finding it difficult to get into neutral gear. I measured the play of the clutch lever and it is within spec, and when I had the case off and measured the plates they were OK as well. What else should I do, or is it a known issue?
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Old 10-25-2013, 10:31 PM   #82988
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Question

Quote:
Originally Posted by ER70S-2 View Post
Wow, I'm a whole page behind; may have been 205'd

The following will make sense if you've towed someone with both a chain and then with a nylon tow strap.

Towing with a chain requires a skilled driver with a soft touch on the throttle. If not, the snatching chain will shake every nut and bolt in both vehicles. With a nylon strap, even a teenage girl (while texting) can tow a second vehicle with no conflict. However there will still be drama. With women, there will always be drama.

I don't know why you think a cush hub costs torque, it just cushions the hammering to the driveline of a 650 single with a power stroke once every 720 degrees of rotation. At 4000 rpm that's 2000 impacts per minute, think Jackhammer. Take your bike out and short shift at 2800-3000, roll the throttle on. Feel that banging in the footpegs? It's always there, that's why doG invented cush hubs.

Dirt bikes don't have cush hubs because the cushioning is taken care of by the slippage of the tire against dirt surface.

My xr650l didn't have a Cush drive and neither did the ktm 360 exc. both seemed to do just fine on pavement without it. I guess I really don't understand what the difference is. They both also wheelied easier (ok I know the ktm isn't a fair comparison). So it seems to me that there must be some torque being displaced or dampened. But maybe I'm just not understanding. Or connecting the wrong dots.
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Old 10-25-2013, 11:34 PM   #82989
ER70S-2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rocktown View Post
My xr650l didn't have a Cush drive and seemed to do just fine on pavement without it.
So..............did you have 53,xxx miles on your KLR XRL?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rocktown View Post
and neither did the ktm 360 exc.
Not fair

Quote:
Originally Posted by Rocktown View Post
I guess I really don't understand what the difference is.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rocktown View Post
They both also wheelied easier (ok I know the ktm isn't a fair comparison).
Although in a previous life, balance point wheelies were my passion (two stroke, 100 pounds lighter), the DR has completely denied me the pleasure (like my ex). It's been said "The DR wheelies so easily, it's almost like cheating." There are numerous youtube vids showing said antics.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Rocktown View Post
So it seems to me that there must be some torque being displaced or dampened. But maybe I'm just not understanding. Or connecting the wrong dots.
Whatever is going on, it isn't the cush hub.
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Quote:
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"BTW, I don't do style. It's a dirt bike, not some girlie dress-up thing." -
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Old 10-25-2013, 11:36 PM   #82990
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Cush

Better clutch on the ktm. More frequently replaced clutch on my honda. I suspect a cush drive hub is more expensive to produce as well. My little NX250 has a cush hub too so maybe it's a street thing. Both the NX and the DR came with Trail Wings stock and we all know how well they do off road...
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Old 10-26-2013, 06:15 AM   #82991
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more cush

I just bought a DR350 that does not have a cush hub. You can feel every transition of throttle position and gear change. It chirps the tire on every downshift unless I'm careful to rpm match. I studied the cush sprockets and eventually I'll buy one, once it comes up in the farkling priority list.

I don't think there would be an issue with a cush hub on a race bike other than weight. What you might give up in instantaneous power transfer, would be more than made up in traction. But then that might be personal bias. I like cush, not hammer.
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Old 10-26-2013, 07:28 AM   #82992
Foot dragger
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FlowBee View Post
Why so hostile?

How do you judge whether your bike is actually in neutral or not? Most of us rely upon the green neutral light, which is triggered by the NSU. And if you judge a difficulty in getting the bike into neutral by the green neutral light then you will mis-diagnose an issue with your transmission. The most common issue with the NSU is, of course, the screws backing out and allowing slop in the engagement point of the neutral position.

And if it's not the NSU, are you sure it wasn't one of the other two alternatives?

This isn't JM. I'm just trying to help, ferchrissake.
Not being hostile what so ever,just asking a sensible question.

The green light hadnt been mentioned,just hard to get into neutral.

Most bikes shift into neutral easily while moving,many are hard to get into neutral at rest. With the gearbox spinning the shift forks can move gears around no problem. At rest the linkage and forks are being stressed to move gears back and forth. Just rocking the bike back and forth a little with the engine off can allow it to slip into neutral easier.
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Old 10-26-2013, 07:30 AM   #82993
Foot dragger
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Quote:
Originally Posted by psmcd View Post
I just bought a DR350 that does not have a cush hub. You can feel every transition of throttle position and gear change. It chirps the tire on every downshift unless I'm careful to rpm match. I studied the cush sprockets and eventually I'll buy one, once it comes up in the farkling priority list.

I don't think there would be an issue with a cush hub on a race bike other than weight. What you might give up in instantaneous power transfer, would be more than made up in traction. But then that might be personal bias. I like cush, not hammer.
It will still chirp the tire with a cush hub,shifting smoothly is how to make it not chirp the tire on downshifts.
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Old 10-26-2013, 07:34 AM   #82994
Foot dragger
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MrBob View Post
Go back a few pages. This issue was extensively discussed since many of us are dealing with it. Cable adjustments rarely solve the problem.
On my DR,the cable adjustment needs to be done with the engine warm or hot,it changes a little from hot to cold and it needs to be right to shift well.
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Old 10-26-2013, 07:41 AM   #82995
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Quote:
Originally Posted by psmcd View Post
I just bought a DR350 that does not have a cush hub. You can feel every transition of throttle position and gear change. It chirps the tire on every downshift unless I'm careful to rpm match. I studied the cush sprockets and eventually I'll buy one, once it comes up in the farkling priority list.
DR350 "S" models have a cush hub that will go right on. Probably not much more that a cush sprocket for price difference. Especially after a couple of sprocket replacements.
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