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Old 10-25-2013, 10:34 PM   #82981
ER70S-2
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Originally Posted by Rocktown View Post
My xr650l didn't have a Cush drive and seemed to do just fine on pavement without it.
So..............did you have 53,xxx miles on your KLR XRL?
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and neither did the ktm 360 exc.
Not fair

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Originally Posted by Rocktown View Post
I guess I really don't understand what the difference is.
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They both also wheelied easier (ok I know the ktm isn't a fair comparison).
Although in a previous life, balance point wheelies were my passion (two stroke, 100 pounds lighter), the DR has completely denied me the pleasure (like my ex). It's been said "The DR wheelies so easily, it's almost like cheating." There are numerous youtube vids showing said antics.

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Originally Posted by Rocktown View Post
So it seems to me that there must be some torque being displaced or dampened. But maybe I'm just not understanding. Or connecting the wrong dots.
Whatever is going on, it isn't the cush hub.
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Old 10-25-2013, 10:36 PM   #82982
Gebogen
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Cush

Better clutch on the ktm. More frequently replaced clutch on my honda. I suspect a cush drive hub is more expensive to produce as well. My little NX250 has a cush hub too so maybe it's a street thing. Both the NX and the DR came with Trail Wings stock and we all know how well they do off road...
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Old 10-26-2013, 05:15 AM   #82983
psmcd
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more cush

I just bought a DR350 that does not have a cush hub. You can feel every transition of throttle position and gear change. It chirps the tire on every downshift unless I'm careful to rpm match. I studied the cush sprockets and eventually I'll buy one, once it comes up in the farkling priority list.

I don't think there would be an issue with a cush hub on a race bike other than weight. What you might give up in instantaneous power transfer, would be more than made up in traction. But then that might be personal bias. I like cush, not hammer.
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Old 10-26-2013, 06:28 AM   #82984
Foot dragger
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Originally Posted by FlowBee View Post
Why so hostile?

How do you judge whether your bike is actually in neutral or not? Most of us rely upon the green neutral light, which is triggered by the NSU. And if you judge a difficulty in getting the bike into neutral by the green neutral light then you will mis-diagnose an issue with your transmission. The most common issue with the NSU is, of course, the screws backing out and allowing slop in the engagement point of the neutral position.

And if it's not the NSU, are you sure it wasn't one of the other two alternatives?

This isn't JM. I'm just trying to help, ferchrissake.
Not being hostile what so ever,just asking a sensible question.

The green light hadnt been mentioned,just hard to get into neutral.

Most bikes shift into neutral easily while moving,many are hard to get into neutral at rest. With the gearbox spinning the shift forks can move gears around no problem. At rest the linkage and forks are being stressed to move gears back and forth. Just rocking the bike back and forth a little with the engine off can allow it to slip into neutral easier.
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Old 10-26-2013, 06:30 AM   #82985
Foot dragger
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Quote:
Originally Posted by psmcd View Post
I just bought a DR350 that does not have a cush hub. You can feel every transition of throttle position and gear change. It chirps the tire on every downshift unless I'm careful to rpm match. I studied the cush sprockets and eventually I'll buy one, once it comes up in the farkling priority list.

I don't think there would be an issue with a cush hub on a race bike other than weight. What you might give up in instantaneous power transfer, would be more than made up in traction. But then that might be personal bias. I like cush, not hammer.
It will still chirp the tire with a cush hub,shifting smoothly is how to make it not chirp the tire on downshifts.
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Old 10-26-2013, 06:34 AM   #82986
Foot dragger
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Originally Posted by MrBob View Post
Go back a few pages. This issue was extensively discussed since many of us are dealing with it. Cable adjustments rarely solve the problem.
On my DR,the cable adjustment needs to be done with the engine warm or hot,it changes a little from hot to cold and it needs to be right to shift well.
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Old 10-26-2013, 06:41 AM   #82987
Rusty Rocket
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Quote:
Originally Posted by psmcd View Post
I just bought a DR350 that does not have a cush hub. You can feel every transition of throttle position and gear change. It chirps the tire on every downshift unless I'm careful to rpm match. I studied the cush sprockets and eventually I'll buy one, once it comes up in the farkling priority list.
DR350 "S" models have a cush hub that will go right on. Probably not much more that a cush sprocket for price difference. Especially after a couple of sprocket replacements.
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Old 10-26-2013, 07:36 AM   #82988
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Best 80/20 Tires?

My stock Trail Wing is getting square on the back, so new tires will be needed soon...

Anyone care to weigh in of what are the best 80% Road / 20% Dirt tires?

TIA

John
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Old 10-26-2013, 07:47 AM   #82989
GSF1200S
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Originally Posted by x32792 View Post
My stock Trail Wing is getting square on the back, so new tires will be needed soon...

Anyone care to weigh in of what are the best 80% Road / 20% Dirt tires?

TIA

John
What type of off road? Just dirt roads? Sand? Rocks?
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Old 10-26-2013, 07:57 AM   #82990
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80%..... Depends on the dirt you want to do but the Shinko 705 is more road oriented and performs well in a lot of dirt. I have a set (thx JP) but we don't get sloppy mud here.

I mostly run the Shinko 244 for all around use. Inexpensive, pretty quiet on the road, decent traction for most of my uses.
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Old 10-26-2013, 07:59 AM   #82991
psmcd
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Originally Posted by Rusty Rocket View Post
DR350 "S" models have a cush hub that will go right on. Probably not much more that a cush sprocket for price difference. Especially after a couple of sprocket replacements.
Cool, thanks for the 350 guidance on the 650 thread. Hope this ain't some kinda thread infraction.
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Old 10-26-2013, 08:03 AM   #82992
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80%..... Depends on the dirt you want to do but the Shinko 705 is more road oriented and performs well in a lot of dirt. I have a set (thx JP) but we don't get sloppy mud here.

I mostly run the Shinko 244 for all around use. Inexpensive, pretty quiet on the road, decent traction for most of my uses.
I figured I'd ask as even 10% off road could require knobbies depending on what it is. That said, the shinko 244s were likely to be my response. Maybe a shinko 244 front and a 705 rear? If gnarlier off road, IRC TR8 front and 244 rear; the tr8 is about the same price as a 244 but more aggressive. It won't last as long, but it will last a long time for a knobby
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Old 10-26-2013, 08:04 AM   #82993
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Hard to find Neutral

Here's the link of what was discussed previously. The NSU screws have nothing to do with it.

http://drriders.com/topic6671.html
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Old 10-26-2013, 08:12 AM   #82994
Mambo Dave
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Originally Posted by cyberdos View Post
Here's the link of what was discussed previously. The NSU screws have nothing to do with it.

http://drriders.com/topic6671.html
Very interesting read. Thank you for the link.
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Old 10-26-2013, 08:34 AM   #82995
CanadaBiker
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Quote:
Originally Posted by x32792 View Post
My stock Trail Wing is getting square on the back, so new tires will be needed soon...

Anyone care to weigh in of what are the best 80% Road / 20% Dirt tires?

TIA

John
I just put 705's on my DR. They are great on the highway and very decent in the dirt. I did about 70 kms of trail riding last weekend with them. First off, in the greasy mud, they suck balls. But another rider with 244's didn't love the grease either. When the base got firmer, they were good. Hard pack dirt, gravel, and even muddy-ish, seemed ok. I found myself having to plough forward through puddles and muddy ruts, because quick direction changes felt a bit unstable in anything wet. But if I was truly doing 80/20 riding they are a great tire.

One thing to note, for me at least, was that going from a 120/90 rear Pirelli AT to a 130/80 Shinko 705 definitely slowed my steering down. I'm not sure if it's just in the geometry of the front end with the 130 / 80 possibly being shorter then the 120/90, and the 90/90 Shinko being taller then the Pirelli 90/90 or if it's just harder to get the bigger rear tire to flop over. I raised my forks up about 1/2 inch, and that seemed to fix about 50% of the steering difference. Then I put in about 400 kms on mixed surfaces, and eventually got used to the difference to where i forgot about it.

I might try a set of 700's next as I hear they don't feel much less stable on pavement then the 705's. If I was doing more then 20% off-road, I would likely try the 244's at the very least. If more than 50% off-road, I would then go to a Dunlop 606 or a Kenda 784 kind of tire.
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