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Old 10-25-2013, 01:41 PM   #82981
barko1
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Location: Las Cruces, NM or thereabouts
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Originally Posted by Off Limits View Post
Called the dealer today to see wtf is going on. Seems they are taking their time since its a warranty claim. They said it seems to be the cdi box. Will keep you Gus posted.
Jerks, if it is the CDI put a new one in and you'll know. Wonder if they have looked at it yet
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Old 10-25-2013, 01:44 PM   #82982
GSF1200S
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Originally Posted by chokpa View Post
Cool pics mate. How does the bike handle on roads like that?
Piece of cake. The wet part was slippery due to the kenda 270 front, but otherwise the bike was great..

Glad you guys enjoyed!
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Old 10-25-2013, 01:52 PM   #82983
gaahrdner
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I'm finding it difficult to get into neutral gear. I measured the play of the clutch lever and it is within spec, and when I had the case off and measured the plates they were OK as well. What else should I do, or is it a known issue?
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Old 10-25-2013, 03:00 PM   #82984
cyberdos
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Originally Posted by barko1 View Post
Jerks, if it is the CDI put a new one in and you'll know. Wonder if they have looked at it yet
maybe they're tying to figure out which seat bolt to take off first. The right one or the left one. I don't think it's specified in the manual.
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Old 10-25-2013, 04:04 PM   #82985
TrophyHunter
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Originally Posted by gaahrdner View Post
I'm finding it difficult to get into neutral gear. I measured the play of the clutch lever and it is within spec, and when I had the case off and measured the plates they were OK as well. What else should I do, or is it a known issue?
Rolling or stopped? Rolling in gear challenges me sometimes but if I'm stopped, no issue.
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Old 10-25-2013, 05:35 PM   #82986
FlowBee
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Originally Posted by gaahrdner View Post
I'm finding it difficult to get into neutral gear. I measured the play of the clutch lever and it is within spec, and when I had the case off and measured the plates they were OK as well. What else should I do, or is it a known issue?
Have you fixed the NSU issue yet? Neutral issues, especially with regard to the neutral light, are a warning sign that your NSU might be getting ready to take a crap on your engine. It could be the bolts that hold your NSU in place have loosened up and are getting ready to fall out (potentially destroying your engine). Google "DR650 NSU" for more info.

Beyond that I'd suggest changing your oil / filter and see if that helps. Old oil can have an effect on how the transmission feels when shifting.

edit add: also check that the bolt securing your shift lever is tight and secured with Loctite blue. A loose bolt on the shift lever can mimic transmission / clutch issues.
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Old 10-25-2013, 05:42 PM   #82987
Mongle
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Originally Posted by cyberdos View Post
maybe they're tying to figure out which seat bolt to take off first. The right one or the left one. I don't think it's specified in the manual.

You must be crazy. Those are the highest trained 19 year olds that MMI could put out. They have 6 months of experience under their belt! You think all those shiny new tools are just for show?
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Old 10-25-2013, 06:36 PM   #82988
imprezagm4
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Originally Posted by TrophyHunter View Post
Rolling or stopped? Rolling in gear challenges me sometimes but if I'm stopped, no issue.
Interesting you say that because since new my dr is tough to get in neutral when not moving (engine on)... however rolling or engine off it goes into neutral just fine.
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Old 10-25-2013, 07:26 PM   #82989
blugg1
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I have the same problem imprezagm4 has. If I don't shift up into neutral just before I stop, forget getting it out of first gear. Yet, if I turn off the engine it comes out of first like butter.
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Old 10-25-2013, 07:54 PM   #82990
Foot dragger
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Originally Posted by FlowBee View Post
Have you fixed the NSU issue yet? Neutral issues, especially with regard to the neutral light, are a warning sign that your NSU might be getting ready to take a crap on your engine. It could be the bolts that hold your NSU in place have loosened up and are getting ready to fall out (potentially destroying your engine). Google "DR650 NSU" for more info.

Beyond that I'd suggest changing your oil / filter and see if that helps. Old oil can have an effect on how the transmission feels when shifting.

edit add: also check that the bolt securing your shift lever is tight and secured with Loctite blue. A loose bolt on the shift lever can mimic transmission / clutch issues.
OK.educate me,how does a neutral light effect rather a DR will go into neutral easily or not?

And why would being hard to slip into neutral mean maybe the NSU screws are falling out ? These 2 items are not related.
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Old 10-25-2013, 08:20 PM   #82991
MrBob
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Originally Posted by gaahrdner View Post
I'm finding it difficult to get into neutral gear. I measured the play of the clutch lever and it is within spec, and when I had the case off and measured the plates they were OK as well. What else should I do, or is it a known issue?
Go back a few pages. This issue was extensively discussed since many of us are dealing with it. Cable adjustments rarely solve the problem.
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Old 10-25-2013, 08:50 PM   #82992
FlowBee
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Originally Posted by Foot dragger View Post
OK.educate me,how does a neutral light effect rather a DR will go into neutral easily or not?

And why would being hard to slip into neutral mean maybe the NSU screws are falling out ? These 2 items are not related.
Why so hostile?

How do you judge whether your bike is actually in neutral or not? Most of us rely upon the green neutral light, which is triggered by the NSU. And if you judge a difficulty in getting the bike into neutral by the green neutral light then you will mis-diagnose an issue with your transmission. The most common issue with the NSU is, of course, the screws backing out and allowing slop in the engagement point of the neutral position.

And if it's not the NSU, are you sure it wasn't one of the other two alternatives?

This isn't JM. I'm just trying to help, ferchrissake.
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Old 10-25-2013, 09:56 PM   #82993
ER70S-2
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Wow, I'm a whole page behind; may have been 205'd

Quote:
Originally Posted by Rocktown View Post
.............. If I had that I wouldn't be worried about the small amount of torque a Cush drive displaces. Its Understandable why you would want a Cush drive with that beastly thumper. That's awesome.
The following will make sense if you've towed someone with both a chain and then with a nylon tow strap.

Towing with a chain requires a skilled driver with a soft touch on the throttle. If not, the snatching chain will shake every nut and bolt in both vehicles. With a nylon strap, even a teenage girl (while texting) can tow a second vehicle with no conflict. However there will still be drama. With women, there will always be drama.

I don't know why you think a cush hub costs torque, it just cushions the hammering to the driveline of a 650 single with a power stroke once every 720 degrees of rotation. At 4000 rpm that's 2000 impacts per minute, think Jackhammer. Take your bike out and short shift at 2800-3000, roll the throttle on. Feel that banging in the footpegs? It's always there, that's why doG invented cush hubs.

Dirt bikes don't have cush hubs because the cushioning is taken care of by the slippage of the tire against dirt surface.

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Old 10-25-2013, 10:05 PM   #82994
TrophyHunter
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Originally Posted by blugg1 View Post
I have the same problem imprezagm4 has. If I don't shift up into neutral just before I stop, forget getting it out of first gear. Yet, if I turn off the engine it comes out of first like butter.
Hmmm, dunno. Maybe it's as simple as guys who have certain year DR's and liked them better than other years they've owned...? Miles on clutch, adjustments? Strange, but they're machines.

FlowBee - my understanding of Footdragger's comment was that whether your NSU is loose or not really doesn't affect if the actual shifting mechanism works. Some people just remove the NSU altogether so it's not directly tied to the function of the transmission. It's an indicator of the transmissions position. At least that's my understanding of it - but I've been wrong several times - today.
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Old 10-25-2013, 10:06 PM   #82995
8gv
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About the vibes in the pegs. There's an rpm range on my bike where I can feel it pretty good in my pegs. Compared to most of the rpm range it feels noticeable to me. It's what I'd expect near the top of the tach when the motor is making maximum power but it's a midrange rpm phenomena. I'm at 6000 heavily laden miles.

Could this be EOCDS?
(early onset cush drive syndrome)
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