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Old 12-28-2013, 02:43 PM   #85096
acesandeights
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Ha, I didn't think about taking the line with me.
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Old 12-28-2013, 03:19 PM   #85097
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Ok, I'll try to stump the crowd again. What size is the stem nut? Looks like I need to buy a new socket sized properly.
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Old 12-28-2013, 03:32 PM   #85098
ER70S-2
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"BTW, I don't do style. It's a dirt bike, not some girlie dress-up thing." -
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Old 12-28-2013, 03:43 PM   #85099
acesandeights
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Thanks.
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Old 12-28-2013, 04:43 PM   #85100
Brutalguyracing
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motor swap update
update
so i got the old motor out today and the new "old motor" in place
i still need to hook up carb, oil lines, starter,cct,brakes, clutch cables, ect
and i need to swap out the starter gears.....
i hope to do some of that tomm before the rain starts
the motor was a breeze to remove and install by myself ....
within 20 mins i had all engine mounting bolts back in place
i took the motor out of the left hand side....with bike on kickstand
lots of sandwich bags and tape to label everything.....
here are some pics from today



i could not get the starter out without removing the CCT.....so out it went.....
i didn't try to remove the cap..but maybe if you did that you could gain enough clearance...but idk and did not try




here is the gasket......its the broken motor....on the new old motor face is clean and i have a new gasket...


here is the CCT removed


lots of sandwich bags....ahaha


and she is out...not as bad as i thought it was




i was thinking of mounts to mount them both hahaha


then the insane clown posse showed up for a wheel bearing swap and drinking began and bike progress came to a halt



to be continued
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Old 12-28-2013, 05:02 PM   #85101
stretch160
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Location: up-state SC
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Quote:
Originally Posted by warp9man View Post
with all these bigfoot sightings I may have to consider making a longer arm version.

I agree the DR hardware is a bit cheesy, but the bike is so affordable from Suzuki they have to cut corners some where I guess.

atleast the motor is bomb proof
size 15 here.
makes boots hard to find.....
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Old 12-28-2013, 05:32 PM   #85102
Jbw5062
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gas tank

I took the gas tank off to paint my frame. It seemed like it wouldn't stop dripping so I put the bigger house on the had tank and propped it up to one side

Long story short.. can you keep the gas tank off if it is full or must it be drained to keep it off for a week or so?
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Old 12-28-2013, 05:36 PM   #85103
Mongle
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Brutalguyracing- reminder- ratchet the cct all the way back before reinstalling. Other inmates have forgotten and bad things happen!
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Old 12-28-2013, 05:43 PM   #85104
Brutalguyracing
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jbw5062 View Post
I took the gas tank off to paint my frame. It seemed like it wouldn't stop dripping so I put the bigger house on the had tank and propped it up to one side

Long story short.. can you keep the gas tank off if it is full or must it be drained to keep it off for a week or so?
if it is a vacuum petcock then it has to be drained "at least that is what i have been told"
i have a aftermarket on with no vacuum and you can just turn it to off...

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mongle View Post
Brutalguyracing- reminder- ratchet the cct all the way back before reinstalling. Other inmates have forgotten and bad things happen!
yes i am going to check it for tdc and compress it and re install with a new gasket
i just have to find torq specs for everything tomm as well.....
anything else i should know?
i never checked where the bolts went for the side covers "clutch and stater"
errr
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Old 12-28-2013, 06:03 PM   #85105
procycle
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brutalguyracing View Post
if it is a vacuum petcock then it has to be drained "at least that is what i have been told"
The vacuum petcock turns itself off any time there is no vacuum present (unless it's turned to 'prime').
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jbw5062 View Post
...It seemed like it wouldn't stop dripping...
If it leaks it needs to be pulled apart, cleaned up and have fresh seals/gaskets installed.
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Old 12-28-2013, 06:05 PM   #85106
TrophyHunter
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Brutal - I've gone through a few car rebuilds with sammich baggies and notes. Worked for me.

And a THANK YOU to Warp9Man for quality stuff! I got my disk guard installed today while doing a tire swap. EZ PZ and looks great.

I also got the first use of my Motion Pro Bead Pro which worked well for little effort. I did the squeeze (see small pics on site) in three spots fairly close to each other. Bead popped on the 3rd spot. Super light and easy to work with.

Tomorrow - first run on a new Trackmaster II.
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Old 12-28-2013, 06:19 PM   #85107
Brutalguyracing
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Quote:
Originally Posted by procycle View Post
The vacuum petcock turns itself off any time there is no vacuum present (unless it's turned to 'prime').

If it leaks it needs to be pulled apart, cleaned up and have fresh seals/gaskets installed.
good to know....
sorry for the disinformation
also got my counter-shaft seal retainer yesterday from you
woooot
Quote:
Originally Posted by TrophyHunter View Post
Brutal - I've gone through a few car rebuilds with sammich baggies and notes. Worked for me.

And a THANK YOU to Warp9Man for quality stuff! I got my disk guard installed today while doing a tire swap. EZ PZ and looks great.

I also got the first use of my Motion Pro Bead Pro which worked well for little effort. I did the squeeze (see small pics on site) in three spots fairly close to each other. Bead popped on the 3rd spot. Super light and easy to work with.

Tomorrow - first run on a new Trackmaster II.
whats a good set of tire spoons to get to swap tires on my bike..?
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Old 12-28-2013, 06:21 PM   #85108
ER70S-2
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205'd

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jbw5062 View Post
I took the gas tank off to paint my frame. It seemed like it wouldn't stop dripping so I put the bigger house on the had tank and propped it up to one side

Long story short.. can you keep the gas tank off if it is full or must it be drained to keep it off for a week or so?
The stock petcock shouldn't dribble when it's in the ON or PRI RES position. Gas should flow when on PRI. I've had my tank off for a week or two during projects, not a drop.

ProCycle has petcock rebuild kits for the DR.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Threewheelbonnie View Post
"BTW, I don't do style. It's a dirt bike, not some girlie dress-up thing." -

ER70S-2 screwed with this post 12-28-2013 at 08:35 PM
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Old 12-28-2013, 07:02 PM   #85109
Rusty Rocket
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TrophyHunter View Post

Tomorrow - first run on a new Trackmaster II.
careful on tar. they are very squirrelly for the first 100 miles. I almost fell turning outta my driveway first try on one for me.
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Old 12-28-2013, 07:02 PM   #85110
stretch160
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rick's KLR View Post
Thanks to Stretch for posting that. I'd be very interested in how it works for you.
the shim removal made some interesting changes.
the first thing I noticed was that the low speed characteristics were essentially the same. brake dive and road feel were essentially unchanged.
I hit some big nasty looking potholes and the front tire reacted so fast that it felt like a ripple in the pavement. The response was even smoother than the Ricor shock I have on the rear which transmitted a small bump in response to the pot holes.
However the response to mid sized bumps (frost heaves) was unchanged, and hitting a bump in a fast corner seems to cause excessive movement at the front. These results are not unexpected, and they are indicative of a high speed circuit that is opening at a lower pressure, and flowing a greater amount of fluid for a given pressure once opened. I would like to experiment with different shim sizes and thicknesses, but right now that is not an option.
Today I re-installed the 20mm shim and increased the size of the bleed hole .01" by drilling it with a #45 drillbit. I expect the result to be similar to backing off the low speed compression adjustment, on an adjustable fork, just one or two clicks. I'll report back with my results, when it stops raining, but this will not be my last experiment with these valves.

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