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Old 12-28-2013, 06:43 PM   #85096
Brutalguyracing
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Joined: May 2013
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jbw5062 View Post
I took the gas tank off to paint my frame. It seemed like it wouldn't stop dripping so I put the bigger house on the had tank and propped it up to one side

Long story short.. can you keep the gas tank off if it is full or must it be drained to keep it off for a week or so?
if it is a vacuum petcock then it has to be drained "at least that is what i have been told"
i have a aftermarket on with no vacuum and you can just turn it to off...

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mongle View Post
Brutalguyracing- reminder- ratchet the cct all the way back before reinstalling. Other inmates have forgotten and bad things happen!
yes i am going to check it for tdc and compress it and re install with a new gasket
i just have to find torq specs for everything tomm as well.....
anything else i should know?
i never checked where the bolts went for the side covers "clutch and stater"
errr
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Old 12-28-2013, 07:03 PM   #85097
procycle
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brutalguyracing View Post
if it is a vacuum petcock then it has to be drained "at least that is what i have been told"
The vacuum petcock turns itself off any time there is no vacuum present (unless it's turned to 'prime').
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jbw5062 View Post
...It seemed like it wouldn't stop dripping...
If it leaks it needs to be pulled apart, cleaned up and have fresh seals/gaskets installed.
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Old 12-28-2013, 07:05 PM   #85098
TrophyHunter
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Brutal - I've gone through a few car rebuilds with sammich baggies and notes. Worked for me.

And a THANK YOU to Warp9Man for quality stuff! I got my disk guard installed today while doing a tire swap. EZ PZ and looks great.

I also got the first use of my Motion Pro Bead Pro which worked well for little effort. I did the squeeze (see small pics on site) in three spots fairly close to each other. Bead popped on the 3rd spot. Super light and easy to work with.

Tomorrow - first run on a new Trackmaster II.
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Old 12-28-2013, 07:19 PM   #85099
Brutalguyracing
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Quote:
Originally Posted by procycle View Post
The vacuum petcock turns itself off any time there is no vacuum present (unless it's turned to 'prime').

If it leaks it needs to be pulled apart, cleaned up and have fresh seals/gaskets installed.
good to know....
sorry for the disinformation
also got my counter-shaft seal retainer yesterday from you
woooot
Quote:
Originally Posted by TrophyHunter View Post
Brutal - I've gone through a few car rebuilds with sammich baggies and notes. Worked for me.

And a THANK YOU to Warp9Man for quality stuff! I got my disk guard installed today while doing a tire swap. EZ PZ and looks great.

I also got the first use of my Motion Pro Bead Pro which worked well for little effort. I did the squeeze (see small pics on site) in three spots fairly close to each other. Bead popped on the 3rd spot. Super light and easy to work with.

Tomorrow - first run on a new Trackmaster II.
whats a good set of tire spoons to get to swap tires on my bike..?
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Old 12-28-2013, 07:21 PM   #85100
ER70S-2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jbw5062 View Post
I took the gas tank off to paint my frame. It seemed like it wouldn't stop dripping so I put the bigger house on the had tank and propped it up to one side

Long story short.. can you keep the gas tank off if it is full or must it be drained to keep it off for a week or so?
The stock petcock shouldn't dribble when it's in the ON or PRI RES position. Gas should flow when on PRI. I've had my tank off for a week or two during projects, not a drop.

ProCycle has petcock rebuild kits for the DR.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Threewheelbonnie View Post
"BTW, I don't do style. It's a dirt bike, not some girlie dress-up thing." -

ER70S-2 screwed with this post 12-28-2013 at 09:35 PM
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Old 12-28-2013, 08:02 PM   #85101
Rusty Rocket
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TrophyHunter View Post

Tomorrow - first run on a new Trackmaster II.
careful on tar. they are very squirrelly for the first 100 miles. I almost fell turning outta my driveway first try on one for me.
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Old 12-28-2013, 08:02 PM   #85102
stretch160
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rick's KLR View Post
Thanks to Stretch for posting that. I'd be very interested in how it works for you.
the shim removal made some interesting changes.
the first thing I noticed was that the low speed characteristics were essentially the same. brake dive and road feel were essentially unchanged.
I hit some big nasty looking potholes and the front tire reacted so fast that it felt like a ripple in the pavement. The response was even smoother than the Ricor shock I have on the rear which transmitted a small bump in response to the pot holes.
However the response to mid sized bumps (frost heaves) was unchanged, and hitting a bump in a fast corner seems to cause excessive movement at the front. These results are not unexpected, and they are indicative of a high speed circuit that is opening at a lower pressure, and flowing a greater amount of fluid for a given pressure once opened. I would like to experiment with different shim sizes and thicknesses, but right now that is not an option.
Today I re-installed the 20mm shim and increased the size of the bleed hole .01" by drilling it with a #45 drillbit. I expect the result to be similar to backing off the low speed compression adjustment, on an adjustable fork, just one or two clicks. I'll report back with my results, when it stops raining, but this will not be my last experiment with these valves.

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Old 12-28-2013, 08:32 PM   #85103
TheMightyQuinn
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Repairing a hole in the engine case

So, my skid plate, which has formerly saved my engine cases from hundreds of hard hits, has failed. It got smashed directly on the left rear mounting bolt head. The frame clamp rotated into the case causing a 1/2 inch wide and 1/4 inch deep gouge in the aluminum. In the bottom of the gouge is a small hole which was leaking oil. I patched the hole with some JB Weld two part epoxy. It is holding oil now.

Question one: Is this repair likely to hold up permanently or should I take it to a qualified welder for a permanent repair?

Question two: Since the rear brake pads got soaked with engine oil, is it possible to clean them up and reuse or will I need to replace with new?

Question three: I'm planning to upgrade the skid plate with a Pat Walsh Designs plate. Their website says it does not use frame clamps on the rear and extends further back. Anyone have any positive or negative experience with this plate?

Thanks,
Quinn
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TheMightyQuinn screwed with this post 12-28-2013 at 08:34 PM Reason: Forgot to say thanks.
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Old 12-28-2013, 09:17 PM   #85104
Mongle
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brutalguyracing View Post
.



yes i am going to check it for tdc and compress it and re install with a new gasket
i just have to find torq specs for everything tomm as well.....
anything else i should know?
i never checked where the bolts went for the side covers "clutch and stater"
errr
I would only say that if you find that it is NOT on TDC don't turn the engine. I think you would be better off just putting the cct back wherever in the stroke it may be. If you turn it WITHOUT the cct you take a chance of changing (jumping) the timing.
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Old 12-28-2013, 09:22 PM   #85105
Brutalguyracing
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mongle View Post
I would only say that if you find that it is NOT on TDC don't turn the engine. I think you would be better off just putting the cct back wherever in the stroke it may be. If you turn it WITHOUT the cct you take a chance of changing (jumping) the timing.
so dry fit it back on
then find tdc
then remove
retract
re-install...
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Old 12-28-2013, 09:28 PM   #85106
Mongle
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brutalguyracing View Post
so dry fit it back on
then find tdc
then remove
retract
re-install...
retract
dry fit it back on
extend
then find tdc
then remove
retract
re install
extend



Once you retract the cct it will lock in the rearward position. once installed back on you will have to release it to take up the slack and it will be self adjusting from there.
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Old 12-28-2013, 09:37 PM   #85107
Brutalguyracing
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mongle View Post
retract
dry fit it back on
extend
then find tdc
then remove
retract
re install
extend



Once you retract the cct it will lock in the rearward position. once installed back on you will have to release it to take up the slack and it will be self adjusting from there.
thank you kind sir.....
i hope all goes well tomm.....
hope the rain holds off a bit too
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Old 12-28-2013, 09:52 PM   #85108
ER70S-2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheMightyQuinn View Post
So, my skid plate, which has formerly saved my engine cases from hundreds of hard hits, has failed. It got smashed directly on the left rear mounting bolt head. The frame clamp rotated into the case causing a 1/2 inch wide and 1/4 inch deep gouge in the aluminum. In the bottom of the gouge is a small hole which was leaking oil. I patched the hole with some JB Weld two part epoxy. It is holding oil now.

Question one: Is this repair likely to hold up permanently or should I take it to a qualified welder for a permanent repair?

Question two: Since the rear brake pads got soaked with engine oil, is it possible to clean them up and reuse or will I need to replace with new?

Question three: I'm planning to upgrade the skid plate with a Pat Walsh Designs plate. Their website says it does not use frame clamps on the rear and extends further back. Anyone have any positive or negative experience with this plate?

Thanks,
Quinn
What year, how many miles?

I'd grind your JB patch flush with the surface, cut a piece of alum larger than the damaged area (like a tire patch), rough up the area to create more surface area (again, like a tire patch) and then JB the patch over the damaged area. Now you have a large surface area of JB to share the load. Make sure to clean the hell out of the patch area.

Since I've gotten my money's worth out of mine and don't want to take the thing apart, I'd trust the JB, just not on solo rides into Utah's back country

Using the 2 holes further back on the Suzuki frame is a much better idea than the rear clamps as you found out. The only question is: I don't know what gauge alum PWD uses for their skid plates. Some aftermarket plates are 1/8", I don't feel that's thick enough. I made sure the one I got was 3/16", BUT it uses clamps.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Threewheelbonnie View Post
"BTW, I don't do style. It's a dirt bike, not some girlie dress-up thing." -
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Old 12-28-2013, 10:49 PM   #85109
tlmaffucci
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ER70S-2 View Post
What year, how many miles?

I'd grind your JB patch flush with the surface, cut a piece of alum larger than the damaged area (like a tire patch), rough up the area to create more surface area (again, like a tire patch) and then JB the patch over the damaged area. Now you have a large surface area of JB to share the load. Make sure to clean the hell out of the patch area.

Since I've gotten my money's worth out of mine and don't want to take the thing apart, I'd trust the JB, just not on solo rides into Utah's back country

Using the 2 holes further back on the Suzuki frame is a much better idea than the rear clamps as you found out. The only question is: I don't know what gauge alum PWD uses for their skid plates. Some aftermarket plates are 1/8", I don't feel that's thick enough. I made sure the one I got was 3/16", BUT it uses clamps.
Didn't warp9 just come out with a pretty hefty skid plate? I think it was like 4mm thick. Not sure if it uses the clamps or the frame holes.
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Old 12-28-2013, 10:56 PM   #85110
Escaped
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A couple weeks ago my stock petcock leaked in the on position when I took the tank off. I just went ahead and replaced it with a new "manual" Raptor Petcock from Procycle $24.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ER70S-2 View Post
205'd

The stock petcock shouldn't dribble when it's in the ON or PRI RES position. Gas should flow when on PRI. I've had my tank off for a week or two during projects, not a drop.

ProCycle has petcock rebuild kits for the DR.
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