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Old 05-16-2006, 04:25 PM   #91
davorallyfan
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Quote:
Originally Posted by David_S
Hey davorallyfan are those the yukon bags from Moto-sport on your DR? If so how do you like them and how long have you been running them? If they're not what are they?
Thanks,
DS
Motosport YukonII's and rack imported from the US. Been running them for 30,000km They bolt up neat and tidy, fit like a bum in a bucket, dont flap, hold a lot, offer crash protection (tested) are relatively narrow etc.

A good compromise between soft and hard luggage.


Only problem is they do leak a bit under very wet conditions and like most soft bags arent really lockable.
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Old 05-16-2006, 06:42 PM   #92
scootertrash
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Photo82
Had my 2003 DR for 6 happy months now. Tried the XT600E, The KLR650 and the WeeStrom, but this bike seems to fit me like a glove and will be my dirty love-slave. Had to do the new base gasket at 3000 miles, but it is now leak-free. Have Progressive upgrade springs, grip heater kit, and the Jesse idle screw to add to it - but that's happening before Buena Vista.




So- recently I put on some new MT21's and took it into some loose stuff. I've noticed that I need to gear down (like everybody has said) in order to climb without lugging the motor too much. If I change to the 14-tooth primary sproket, can I just reset the chain tension adjuster, or do I need to pull a link from the drive chain? Anyone? This thread is great, by the way...big ups to everyone for keeping it going!

Dude, I'm bumming! I have a 2003 DR which is about 20 miles from the 3000 mi mark, I'm hoping my base gasket is ok! Was yours the steel or fiber gasket? Mine is the steel and I purchased the bike in Sept '03, unaware of the whole gasket fiasco, dumb luck for sure. This is what I see on my bike in this pic I found on the web:

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Old 05-16-2006, 07:00 PM   #93
SDU
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Well thought I'd add a pic off my toy. I got it approx a month ago & have had lowered heaps & have just got the bashplate on & the bars & a few other things changed.
Loving it, all I need to do now is to test the ground clearance off road.
[IMG][/IMG]
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Old 05-16-2006, 07:49 PM   #94
CuzinMike
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A few pics of my '05:

Posing with the Wee-Strom



Resting in Wyoming



Clean(?!?) in the driveway
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Old 05-16-2006, 09:28 PM   #95
bonedale
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More noob questions

Thanks for the advice all on the mods.

I picked up the Acerbis Rally Pro at my local shop and was wondering, first if it would even fit the levers (anyone have these), but also, will I lose my anti-vib stock ends? I assume that's what those black weights are.

I replaced my broken clutch lever and it's pretty loose in the slot. And I have a black washer left, so I'm wondering if there is a washer is in contact with the clutch lever in it's slot to add to a tighter fit, or is this extra, just from the last bolt to the stock guard. So, in conclusion, i currently have, bolt start from top, though clutch lever and housing, to the .375" spacer tube, matching black washer, locking nut, then it would go through stock handguard bottom. Or is my replacemet lever, just a slight bit thinner?

Thanks all
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Old 05-16-2006, 09:32 PM   #96
bonedale
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scootertrash
Dude, I'm bumming! I have a 2003 DR which is about 20 miles from the 3000 mi mark, I'm hoping my base gasket is ok! Was yours the steel or fiber gasket? Mine is the steel and I purchased the bike in Sept '03, unaware of the whole gasket fiasco, dumb luck for sure. This is what I see on my bike in this pic I found on the web:

I have this too and I just got a 2006. I need to learn more of the gasket issue.
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Old 05-16-2006, 10:20 PM   #97
Burren Rider
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I've been doing a bit of thinking lately and have come up with the following conclusion.

A well set up DR would have to be the ideal Distance Dirt Tourer.

This is probably not news to anyone on this thread but having owned and ridden quite a few different approaches to the adventure philosophy I keep coming back the the humble DR.

I ride a DRZ at present and this is not likely to change anytime soon because it is so good at what I use it for (middle distance adventure work), but if I was going to set out on a really big trip, the DR would get the nod. Which has got me thinking about a DR/Z duo in the shed. I keep thinking it seems like duplication but if both bikes were set up with an intended purpose it begins to make sense.

Why? Well for a start I am not a big fan of road riding. I get bored, booked and to be honest bounding kangaroo's scare me more than they used to. My current riding mainly consists of day trips and 2-3 day tours of discovery but I am hoping to do some longer trips as things settle at work. A lot of people would see this as the ideal reason to buy a DL/GS/950 but I figure that I only want to sit on 110-120km/hr in the open and a DR will do it all day long. Why spend the extra money on something that is more complex and less manageable in the dirt?

Being an analytical thinker (an occupational hazard), I have looked at most attributes in detail and the DR still makes the most sense for long distance dirt work.

1) Simplicity. The DR is a simple bike. It goes, stops and is serviced with a minimum of fuss. When you are out in the middle of nowhere, possibly somewhere like this -


there is a certain peace of mind that comes with riding a solid bike. Performance and technology are great things but in the wrong environment they can be a disadvantage. In the case of something going wrong, fixing the DR in the outback is not as daunting as stripping the tank/s off a fuel injected twin.

That simplicity has a flow on effect when it comes to price and availability. The DR has been around basically unchanged for 10 years now which means they are cheap and parts are plentiful (at least in Australia where they seem to be selling better than ever). For the average rider this allows for a few modifications and the freedom to take the bike in the dirt without fear of financial ramifications.

2) Comfort. The DR is no lounge chair (although I have never ridden one with an aftermarket seat so maybe they can be) but big days are limited only by the rider. Having done over 100,000km's on three DR's I can say with all confidence that the bike is certainly capable of covering ground with surprising ease. It has taken me a while to realise this but for some strange reason, 750km days on a V-Strom are just as fatiguing as on a DR? The only reason I can attribute to this phenomenum is the extra thought required to keep a V-Strom on the desired path in the dirt. Sure it will do it but it requires restraint and I suspect this may be mentally fatiguing?

A few tricks can help out here too. I used a sheepskin on mine (a poor man's Corbin) and a small screen made a huge difference on the road. For those interested in making one here is a bit of a guide to making it yourself.


Screen Instructions

The best place to start is with a cardboard template. In order to be effective, I generally try and make the screen throw the air at my neck so that the helmet is free from buffeting. This can take a bit of experimentation but it is well worth the effort because it takes a lot of the pressure off your chest and neck.

Once a template is made, take it down to the local acrylic supplier (lexan is better if you can get it) and get them to cut it (3mm lexan is the best to work with in my experience). The next step involves heating the acrylic (I use a small camping stove) and bending it to suit the shape of the headlight surround. The shape of the DR/DRZ headlight surrounds are suited to screens because it is fairly broad without any radical angles. Be careful when heating the acrylic that you don't heat it too fast because it will bubble, patience is the key here (remember to hold it with pot holders or something similar too because it will get very hot). Once hot (you will see it flex) I line the screen up on a flat surface and place another straight edge (like a chopping board) above it to get a straight bend. I generally put a bend on either side to make it fit nicely on the headlight surround.

In order to mount it, I drill two holes in the headlight surround and then another two in the screen. Acrylic is a bit touchy to drill so it is important to take your time, if possible use a blunt drill bit and make sure that you have something solid behind it (like a piece of timber). Using a sharp drill may lead to the bit grabbing on the screen and cracking the acrylic (trust me on this one).

Once the screen is mounted, check that it doesn't interfere with any of the cables (sometimes the brake hose can be a problem when the forks are compressed) and then take it for a ride. Unless you are really lucky, it will generally need some fine-tuning to get the airflow right, and this is when you can incorporate a flip at the top to fine adjust the airflow. I generally take off the headlight surround (screen and all) and heat the top couple of inches of the screen. Using the straight edges, I then give it a small flip forward about an inch or two down from the top, depending on how much the airflow need to come up. To finish off the process, I bevel an edge around the screen with a file or a dremel and then tidy it up with 1200 wet and dry, just to give it that factory finish.
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Old 05-17-2006, 12:47 AM   #98
Burren Rider
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Dirt Ability: In my mind this is the big strength of the DR when compared to the multi-cylinder adventure tourers. There may not be a lot of difference on formed tracks but when things turn nasty and you have to drag it thru a boghole or muscle it across a creek the DR shines.

A bit of work is required to access the DR's true ability in the bush but a set of springs (depending on weight), some cartridge emulators and a weight loss program can pay big dividends here. A lower seat height can be a plus too, especially for riders who aren't yet capable of the effortless, feet up feats of balance displayed by Rally riders. Even loaded with two weeks worth of camping gear the DR is still manageable, the same can't always be said for 250kg twins.


Creature Comforts: Electrical supply is better than most dirt bikes (180W from memory) which is plenty to power a set of heated grips and some aftermarket lights (the standard one is actually pretty good though).


Luggage carrying capacity is pretty good too with options ranging from throwover bags to alloy panniers. The DR has a pretty good steel subframe which in my experience handles rough terrain without complaint. For off-road touring where security isn't as big an issue, a set of the new Ranger Dirt Bagz and a small rack will be more than enough to stow my camping kit.

Fuel Range: With an Aqualine tank (32Ltrs) and an average fuel consumption of 17-18km/ltr the 650 has a range of 540 - 575km's which is enough for all bar the most isolated outback trip. Even with the IMS tank (20Ltrs) in place the range is plenty for most trips.
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Old 05-17-2006, 01:43 AM   #99
Photo82
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For noobs who haven't read much on the base gasket thingy, searches here will give you many accounts of fibre gaskets that are still holding strong.

Other searches here http://banditmotorcycles.com/ipw-web...n/bb/index.php should provide you with quite a bit of info on the issue.

Some have said that an application of silicone sealant around the base will save it; others recommend retorquing the 4 cylinder head bolts (under the valve cover) after 2000 miles; lazy people (like me) ride 'til their bike pukes oil from the base, then get somebody else to install the new metal base gasket. You will know the new & improved model (that doesn't leak) by the small tabs sticking out from the cylinder base, like this:

I'm not sure on which model year the fibre gasket issue surfaced, but midway through the '03 production, Suzuki upgraded to the better gasket - without acknowledging the problem, of course. My replacement cost $240 out-the-door. Since I'd bought my bike barely used at a deep discount, I'd already factored in the new gasket cost.

I'd chalk this up as one of the few production problems inherent in this bike. Every dual sport I've owned has had some sort of Achille's heel that can be completely fixed. My KLR650 had its "doohicky" and butter-metal fasteners...my Yamaha XT600E had a brittle wiring harness around the steering head...The positives of the DR650SE FAR outweigh the negatives, IMO.

Photo82 screwed with this post 05-17-2006 at 01:52 AM
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Old 05-17-2006, 01:44 AM   #100
ADVJake
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Great posts Danny, I agree the DR is the best bike out there for 50/50 riding. With the corbin seat and my light weight, the DR is the most comfy bike i have ever ridden.
I rode 800kms on the road from melbourne to sydney and had no discomfort at all. Only problem was boredom :)
They are suprisingly capable in the dirt, ground clearance, suspension and weight are the limiting factors.
I been thinking of trying a corbin for the DRZ, but have my doubts if it will provide the same comfort level as the 650s.
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Old 05-17-2006, 02:30 AM   #101
snowrider
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The issue is only with the fiber gaskets. I'm not sure how you found that picture without finding this info, but the whole point of the picture is that if you have that tab, you have the metal gasket and don't have to worry about it.

Quote:
Originally Posted by scootertrash
Dude, I'm bumming! I have a 2003 DR which is about 20 miles from the 3000 mi mark, I'm hoping my base gasket is ok! Was yours the steel or fiber gasket? Mine is the steel and I purchased the bike in Sept '03, unaware of the whole gasket fiasco, dumb luck for sure. This is what I see on my bike in this pic I found on the web:

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Old 05-17-2006, 03:49 AM   #102
David_S
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Also remember that just because you don't have the metal gasket doesn't mean yours is going to leak. Sure there are a lot of reported gasket failures but how many peoples have not failed? I have a hunch more don't fail than do we just don't hear about it.

davorallyfan thanks for the info on the side bags . I've been considering that setup but am having trouble prying my wallet open far enough. I like the idea of soft luggage for several reasons. Also I have a pelican top case that I can lock to store more valuable items.

DS
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Old 05-17-2006, 04:11 AM   #103
compman21234
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yautja
Great posts Danny, I agree the DR is the best bike out there for 50/50 riding. With the corbin seat and my light weight, the DR is the most comfy bike i have ever ridden.
Which seat do you have? At the Corbin website, the seat for the stock gastank appears to be *very* different in shape from the one for the aftermarket tank -- if they are shaped differently, I'm guessing that they could be different comfort-wise, too. So, do you have the one for the stock tank, or aftermarket tank? If your DR is the most comfy bike you've ever ridden, the seat must be pretty good. Which one is it?

Has anyone ever actually tried the two different seats themselves, and can tell how they differ in comfort?
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Old 05-17-2006, 04:14 AM   #104
David_S
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I haven't tried them both but for anyone interested a Corbin for the stock seat will fit an IMS 4.9 gal tank. You just have to remove the two rear mounting brackets and file the holes so the seat can be positioned back a bit. It's a snug fit but I bought the seat used before I bought the tank and wasn't about to shell out the $$ for a new seat.

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Old 05-17-2006, 04:17 AM   #105
InertiaDRZ400
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Quote:
Originally Posted by David_S
fatchance posted a link to the manual on page 5 of this post.

Oh sorry i had a look and thought it was a Pre-96 manual! Looked old ! ahha

Thanx!
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