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Old 05-07-2008, 11:49 PM   #13321
Jammin
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Joined: Jan 2006
Location: New Delhi - new 'home' for post RTW
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AndrewL
An M6 bolt with no markings or marked with a 4 is 4ftlbs. If it is marked with a 7 use 7ftlbs.

Cheers
Thanx Andrew.

BTW, do you use English units in Australia or is it all Metric? I'm a Metric guy but my torque wrench only has English units.

And just wondering... since it's a Metric bike, shouldn't the Metric bolts be marked with a Metric Torque value? Just curious... (it's 2 in the morning, must go to sleeeep...)
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Old 05-08-2008, 12:38 AM   #13322
doc riverz
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Joined: Apr 2002
Location: The Sunny side of the SF Bay Area.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jammin
...I'm a Metric guy but my torque wrench only has English units.
Here is a nice on-line torque conversion tool: http://www.convert-me.com/en/convert/torque

Most torque wrenches have a little scale that reads both ft lbs and newton meters.

Motion Pro has a nice torque conversion table.
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Old 05-08-2008, 02:29 AM   #13323
TTRanch
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Joined: May 2008
Location: Heidelberg, Germany
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Stainless Head pipe

Has anyone tried to polish the stainless head pipe? Mine looks like ass, and high heat paint turns to intake food for the guy behind me. I'm a cheap bastard and would rather spend the money on carb before header.
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Old 05-08-2008, 02:41 AM   #13324
NordieBoy
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Joined: Dec 2006
Location: Kiwiland
Oddometer: 7,144
Quote:
Originally Posted by TTRanch
Has anyone tried to polish the stainless head pipe? Mine looks like ass, and high heat paint turns to intake food for the guy behind me. I'm a cheap bastard and would rather spend the money on carb before header.
I've seen a pic somewhere and it didn't look at all bad.
I'm tempted to try this myself.
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Old 05-08-2008, 02:52 AM   #13325
TTRanch
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Joined: May 2008
Location: Heidelberg, Germany
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NordieBoy
I've seen a pic somewhere and it didn't look at all bad.
I'm tempted to try this myself.
Gotta try something, maybe I'll start with a scotch brite pad on a die grinder to get the ass off, then work my way finer with buffer wheel and various compounds. Then try and find a lighter exhaust can off something for free, not real worried about spark spitting and can re-jet to suit, more worried about weight and cost.
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Old 05-08-2008, 03:10 AM   #13326
natefalls
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Joined: Dec 2005
Location: Silver Lake, CA
Oddometer: 102
Quote:
Originally Posted by BurgerFriesDrink
Hi. I may have missed it, but can anyone recommend some decent tires for 99% street use for the DR650?
Cheng Shin Barracudas, man. Okay, they're basically 100% street, but if you're only gonna be offroad 1% of the time anyway, go with street tires. Hell, I rode my sportbike through 3 miles of Mojave sand once, and it worked just fine.

Also, I shit you not, you can get a front/rear set for under $100 total. A DR with Barracudas is truly the poor man's supermoto.
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Old 05-08-2008, 05:45 AM   #13327
greer
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Location: Glasgow, Kentucky
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Bearing grease??

I've read time and again that we need to repack the steering head bearings. Is there a particular grease you all would recommend? I figure I better see to this since we're fixin to head to Alaska. Thanks

Sarah
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Old 05-08-2008, 05:46 AM   #13328
soboy
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Joined: Aug 2005
Location: Roswell, GA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BurgerFriesDrink
Hi. I may have missed it, but can anyone recommend some decent tires for 99% street use for the DR650?
Dunlop D607 - this is the stickiest, best-cornering dual sport tire you can buy. If you are into corner carving, this is the tire you want. Fairly inexpensive, too.

If you care more about longevity than street performance, Tourance. Expensive.

A good compromise between the two - Avon Distanzia. Handles better than the Tourance, lasts longer than the Dunlop. Priced like the Dunlop.
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Old 05-08-2008, 05:49 AM   #13329
kbuckey
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Joined: Dec 2005
Location: Lookout Mountain - above Golden, CO
Oddometer: 868
Quote:
Originally Posted by racer 07
Tourance is a good choice IMO. I run 70-30 and bike is set up for same. Tourance works great on wet or dry pavement. Good on gravel, rocks and packed sand. Not so good in mud or deep sand. Will bury itself to the axle in deep sand if you lose forward momentum. They wear good. I have 3,000 miles on this set and they look like new. I also used the Mefo and it was pretty decent in all conditions but tore the rear lugs loose at 5,000 miles due to my abuse (too low of pressure on pavement). I had no trouble with the Trailwings but wore the rear out in 3,000 miles. What works for me may not work for you. Depends on where you ride and how hard. Just my $0.02 Racer 07 PS. Try sw moto tire.com
+1 I took my first set of Tourance's off at 9000 but they had a lot left - but I was leaving for Oregon (1800 plus miles) and didn't want to change on the road. New ones have over 6000 and look great. Handle super on pavement, aren't bothered by rain grooves and do well on dirt roads - haven't even tried them on deep sand or mud. Also do OK in snow - not that I really like doing that.
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Old 05-08-2008, 05:56 AM   #13330
plugeye
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Joined: May 2007
Location: Garland, Texas
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Quote:
Originally Posted by greer
I've read time and again that we need to repack the steering head bearings. Is there a particular grease you all would recommend? I figure I better see to this since we're fixin to head to Alaska. Thanks

Sarah
i used marine grease when i serviced the forks last year
those bearings were pretty dry
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Old 05-08-2008, 06:07 AM   #13331
Zapp22
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Joined: Oct 2004
Location: Tejas Hill Country
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thanks andrew-
so far I have not noticed any pins that are distinctive. I bought the two-piece dremel cutter thingy yesterday to see if I can shave the ends of the pins.

The new chain is a DID gold - it uses a clip. but if you're familiar with this... I don't understand the diagram about placement of the O-rings on the master.
if you can enlighten me......

Quote:
Originally Posted by AndrewL
Zapp,

I am fairly sure that the OEM chain is continuous meaning no master link, but to be sure check for a riveted master link - you'll see a different shape to the ends of the pins and it might take some finding.

Use a small sharp file to take the ends off a couple of link pins (or the riveted master) and push the pins out. That assumes that you plan to reuse the chain at some point in the future... otherwise just cut the chain any way that you can.

Is the new master a rivet or clip type? The former will require tools. For the latter, grease well and install with the clip towards the wheel with the open end pointing backwards in relation to the motion of the chain. I use a pair of wide pliers to push the clip (one jaw on the closed end of the clip, the other on the pin... squeeze... done - and same procedure to get them off) on without tweaking the clip - if you tweak it, throw it away and get another. I also treat them as a single use item - a joiner is a damned sight cheaper than a new set of cases. The joiner on my bike is a watch-it item and is part of my pre-flight (err... pre-ride) inspection. I usually keep a few chain joiners in my toolbox and a couple more in the toolbag on my bike. If in doubt I replace it.

Cheers

EDIT: This thread is moving quickly today. :)
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Old 05-08-2008, 08:38 AM   #13332
Zeekster
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well I'm about to embark on lowering and changing out the suspention on my '07. Also got the race tech gold valves. I'm limited on skills.Icould use somehelpful hints. Also worried about drilling the holes for the gold valves.would I need to have the help of a drill press? thanx in advance ...Zeek
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Old 05-08-2008, 09:26 AM   #13333
Crazed Geezer
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Joined: May 2008
Location: The Big MO
Oddometer: 2
Quote:
Originally Posted by soboy
A good compromise between the two - Avon Distanzia. Handles better than the Tourance, lasts longer than the Dunlop. Priced like the Dunlop.
+1 on the Distanzia. It has a good, deep tread and ample blocks for dirt, but performs well on the street and lasts long-long.

They're built with the British tarmac roads in mind, and stick well on American roads in the dry. Not so well on wet, smooth pavement though.
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Old 05-08-2008, 09:35 AM   #13334
scootertrash
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Joined: Aug 2003
Location: "My leg's tired, let's live here."
Oddometer: 2,074
Some questions for y'all

I know there is a link for a new DR650 forums website, and I thought I bookmarked it, does any one have the link?

Also, with these SoCal gas prices, I will be pressing my DR into commuter duty again, and it's looking like some long freeway blasts, I already have it geared with a 16t c/s sprocket but will need other items attended to.

What kind of detachable w/s could I use (maybe with a Laminar Lip) that will be effective? I already have a S06 w/s but feel it's too small for what I need.

What d/s tires strike a good balance of wear and price that would be good. Because it's mostly street, the tire would be heavily biased to that. I hear that some have tried Tourances on the DR? Is that true? and how are they?

Finally, I'm looking for a mid priced full face along with ear plugs and a good armored riding jacket (maybe Olympia), all suggestions welcomed..
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Old 05-08-2008, 01:15 PM   #13335
greer
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Location: Glasgow, Kentucky
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Here you go, Zapp

I borrowed the picture from the Chain Gang. You want the chain rotating itself into the clip, not out of it. After you get it on, be sure to seal it with RTV or some such.

Sarah

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