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Old 08-17-2010, 09:59 PM   #10381
trustme
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Firedawg450
Once again I seek advice from the wise and all-knowing Scrambler riders (that's all the ass-kissing you'll get).

Here's the question: My Works Performance Steel Tracker shocks have packed it in after roughly a year of service. They seize up when the bike is on its side stand and I have to jump up in down on the seat to get them un-jammed. I contacted works and they charge $60 US to diagnose the shocks (plus shipping).

OR

I can get a pair of stock length YSS G302's for about $500 US all in.

The rub is, do I throw money at shocks that I was really never that overwhelmed with or just buy new shocks?

AND how do I break it to my wife?
At the risk of getting flamed, if the bike is a keeper buy Ohlins, long term it will pay off.
Look on the bright side they may be dear but the new kitchen you will have to buy is even dearer
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Old 08-17-2010, 10:01 PM   #10382
NONAME13
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Excess baggage

Im really enjoying the luggage pics great photos Romabuk and Max anything that helps escape reallity is great without the hangover. I love seeing all the Scrams on a mission and the mission is to get loaded get dirty great job guys continue the beat down and hammer those bikes.
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Old 08-18-2010, 01:25 AM   #10383
blacktiger
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Firedawg450
Once again I seek advice from the wise and all-knowing Scrambler riders (that's all the ass-kissing you'll get).

Here's the question: My Works Performance Steel Tracker shocks have packed it in after roughly a year of service. They seize up when the bike is on its side stand and I have to jump up in down on the seat to get them un-jammed. I contacted works and they charge $60 US to diagnose the shocks (plus shipping).
If you can't pull a warranty thing (how "roughly" is the years use?) on them how about giving them the shocks back, let them "diagnose" it and then telling them to stuff it if they want too much money to sort it. Make sure you don't pay anything up front.

For a fairly cheap alternative.......my Hagon Nitro shocks are still OK after 12000 miles of quite hard use. They're not the most exotic but they seem well built and do work quite well and you'll be saving $$$ over the YSS or Ohlins.
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Old 08-18-2010, 04:59 AM   #10384
satcen
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Maxacceleration
But... we need to see the muffler side too.
And please do tell how you have it secured, as this is key on the floating solo seat/rack.
I have experimented, maybe as you know, and it takes a bit of creativity for secure mounting on a long tour (not to mention off-pavement).
Show us what you got!
1 - Do not laugh at me - I did the rack from WOOD. I was in a hurry and wood was the easiest material I have found. The whole rack was made in 1,5 hour. BTW I am very satisfied vith it.
2 - Since I was in hurry it is all very provisional. I realy have to fasten the rack on both sides to the footpegs. It needs just 2 slightly modified stikcs... ;
3 - May be I will add some light support-bottoms under each sidebag;
4 - I did something similar to you under the solo seat. Just instead of aluminium bridge (too hard IMO) I used a piece of hard runbber tube.
5 - I liked your two rubber silent blocks ... Im gonna steal it (the idea).
6 - ... when the sidebags are on, the number-plates are off

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Old 08-18-2010, 08:34 AM   #10385
Romabuk
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Firedawg450

The rub is, do I throw money at shocks that I was really never that overwhelmed with or just buy new shocks?

AND how do I break it to my wife?
I had the same problem. I went with the Ohlin 535 (model #???) This spring. I called Ohlin in NC and Matt said that was the one I would want. HUGE improvement. This model of Ohlin does not have the reservoir. So no heat challenges or obstructions with the exhaust. A mild one with the Metal Mule rack, nothing a file resolved. I should of bought these shocks sooner. The improvement, adjustability, is worth it.

For my girlfriend, I had to install several length dog legs for her Vstrom. I have to restore back to normal length now but I'm stalling, in case she changes her mind again.
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Old 08-18-2010, 09:07 AM   #10386
MightyChosen1
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Satcen, I think thats a great looking rack for the money.

One of these days when I get some time I am going to build something like that out of tube steel but my plan is to have it mount under the seat since I dont have the solo seat and would also like it to be quick release.
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Old 08-18-2010, 10:48 AM   #10387
Firedawg450
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I tried for warranty coverage, but they won't go for it. I'm within a month of the 1 year warranty coverage. Stupid me for not getting them in sooner, but I was traveling with the fam and time got away.

I looked at the Hagon Nitros and they are a little more expensive than the YSS of similar spec. Mind you, I went with the cheapest I could find last time and look where that got me. Nothing against WP, but shocks should last more than a year.

Quote:
Originally Posted by blacktiger
If you can't pull a warranty thing (how "roughly" is the years use?) on them how about giving them the shocks back, let them "diagnose" it and then telling them to stuff it if they want too much money to sort it. Make sure you don't pay anything up front.

For a fairly cheap alternative.......my Hagon Nitro shocks are still OK after 12000 miles of quite hard use. They're not the most exotic but they seem well built and do work quite well and you'll be saving $$$ over the YSS or Ohlins.
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Old 08-18-2010, 10:51 AM   #10388
Island_Moose
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Quote:
Originally Posted by davorallyfan
Been out riding.

All up about 7,000 km and I visited all the mainland States of Australia.
Great photos

I wonder what it would cost to get my bike to and from Australia from NZ, as this sort of adventure has always been a dream of mine. I'd be tempted to do more of a bitumen-based route, as my bike has become a bit of a tart...but it would be a terrific ride.

I used to ride long distances back home, 1200km days were fairly standard when I was trying to get somewhere.
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Old 08-18-2010, 11:09 AM   #10389
Krahe
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Quote:
Originally Posted by satcen
1 - Do not laugh at me - I did the rack from WOOD. I was in a hurry and wood was the easiest material I have found. The whole rack was made in 1,5 hour. BTW I am very satisfied vith it.
2 - Since I was in hurry it is all very provisional. I realy have to fasten the rack on both sides to the footpegs. It needs just 2 slightly modified stikcs... ;
3 - May be I will add some light support-bottoms under each sidebag;
4 - I did something similar to you under the solo seat. Just instead of aluminium bridge (too hard IMO) I used a piece of hard runbber tube.
5 - I liked your two rubber silent blocks ... Im gonna steal it (the idea).
6 - ... when the sidebags are on, the number-plates are off
If it works, it works...
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Old 08-18-2010, 12:19 PM   #10390
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Island_Moose
Great photos

I wonder what it would cost to get my bike to and from Australia from NZ, as this sort of adventure has always been a dream of mine.
The adventure rider forum on Kiwi Biker website is the place to ask that question.
Clint/Rosie/Bass etc have recently crossed the ditch with their own bikes, and can give you the best advice on shipping/agents, etc. The Aussies are anal and slow when it comes to details, and require a carnet, even though NZ has a very close trading sys with them. The hassle and expense is worth it though.
The riding and scenery is totally different to NZ, and the Aussies are decent people, (so long as you buy the first beer).
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Old 08-18-2010, 01:24 PM   #10391
blacktiger
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Quote:
Originally Posted by satcen
1 - Do not laugh at me - I did the rack from WOOD.
Hey, nothing wrong with wood. Some people build whole houses out of the stuff! Very underrated material.
As Krahe wrote; if it works, it works.
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Old 08-18-2010, 09:04 PM   #10392
Maxacceleration
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Quote:
Originally Posted by satcen
1 - Do not laugh at me - I did the rack from WOOD. I was in a hurry and wood was the easiest material I have found. The whole rack was made in 1,5 hour. BTW I am very satisfied vith it.
2 - Since I was in hurry it is all very provisional. I realy have to fasten the rack on both sides to the footpegs. It needs just 2 slightly modified stikcs... ;
3 - May be I will add some light support-bottoms under each sidebag;
4 - I did something similar to you under the solo seat. Just instead of aluminium bridge (too hard IMO) I used a piece of hard runbber tube.
5 - I liked your two rubber silent blocks ... Im gonna steal it (the idea).
6 - ... when the sidebags are on, the number-plates are off
Good start satcen, although I consider wood the 'mock-up' phase.
I used wood for mock-up also.
Think it through, redesign as need (if needed) and shore up under the seat.
The floating seat needs a secure resting place.
Wood will not survive any sort of off-road adventures to my thinking.

We have a couple of ideas for luggage carrying without going the Ventura route.
With the right refinement they could be produced...
I 'm out of town so much for the next three months I may not find time to 'refine'.
Refine is trial and error.
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Originally Posted by DireWolf
Sounds dangerous.
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Old 08-19-2010, 12:14 AM   #10393
goodcat8
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Any SoCal fellows head over the border?

Little post surgery mexican overnight. Anyone with any info would be appreciated

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=611771

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Old 08-19-2010, 07:08 AM   #10394
technikiller
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Quote:
Originally Posted by satcen
1 - Do not laugh at me - I did the rack from WOOD. I was in a hurry and wood was the easiest material I have found. The whole rack was made in 1,5 hour. BTW I am very satisfied vith it.
2 - Since I was in hurry it is all very provisional. I realy have to fasten the rack on both sides to the footpegs. It needs just 2 slightly modified stikcs... ;
3 - May be I will add some light support-bottoms under each sidebag;
4 - I did something similar to you under the solo seat. Just instead of aluminium bridge (too hard IMO) I used a piece of hard runbber tube.
5 - I liked your two rubber silent blocks ... Im gonna steal it (the idea).
6 - ... when the sidebags are on, the number-plates are off

Be aware that as soon as that melamine chipboard gets wet or even moist it's going to swell up and start to delaminate/disintegrate.
If you make it out of wood, you should use some that's solid or pressure treated to repel water.
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Old 08-19-2010, 07:51 AM   #10395
ChrisLX200
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Quote:
Originally Posted by technikiller
Be aware that as soon as that melamine chipboard gets wet or even moist it's going to swell up and start to delaminate/disintegrate.
If you make it out of wood, you should use some that's solid or pressure treated to repel water.
You're correct - but I'm guessing he's quite aware of that.

If I may suggest another material for your final design - black acetal sheet. Nice stuff to work with and tough (a variant of acetal called Delrin is also used for crash bungs when turned from rod). It's not too expensive to buy in the small quantities you'll need. I don't know about your local supplier but in the UK I use: Direct Plastics http://www.directplasticsonline.co.uk/Acetal_Sheet.html and the link will provide info on available sizes.

Only 2 issues - you can't glue it, and it's heavier than equivalent alloy sheet. Apart from that it's fine - doesn't rot, easy to cut, takes a thread for screws etc. 12mm sheet would be more than adequate I think.

ChrisLX200 screwed with this post 08-19-2010 at 08:01 AM
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