Ask Woody About Your Wheels

[Wirespokes]

I've got an akront high lipped rim set up for rim locks. It's perfect for an intended street application, but would prefer not having the extra two holes for rim locks.

Is it possible to weld them up without compromising the strength or temper?

Also, I'm curious if you've ever seen any wire wheel rims fail due to having been powder coated?

[x-man727]

I have 32000km on my F800GS and my bearings are still ok. Do you think they need to be change and my rear hub is not subject to eat the bearings and don't need modification.

thanks for the answer Woody

[woody's wheel works]

Originally Posted by Wirespokes

I've got an akront high lipped rim set up for rim locks. It's perfect for an intended street application, but would prefer not having the extra two holes for rim locks.

Is it possible to weld them up without compromising the strength or temper?
...we have heat sinks we use while welding up those holes and have had no problems ever,,we also have the ''finishing wizard '' here who will blend/polish it all out so ya can't tell where the hole was....

Also, I'm curious if you've ever seen any wire wheel rims fail due to having been powder coated?

the only rims i've seen fail were on some kids MX rims that he had someone else do all the powdercoating,,he was back a few days after we had forewarned him of the possibility they may have been annealed too long,,,,this time double signature excels ,,superlaced it and have never heard from again...

like i've said before,,,our preference is to anaodize any rims used for competition and hard riding...we've had no problems on any powdercoated items used for street/normal use.

[woody's wheel works]

Originally Posted by x-man727

I have 32000km on my F800GS and my bearings are still ok.i assume you are talking about both front/rear ??? Do you think they need to be change and my rear hub is not subject to eat the bearings and don't need modification.

thanks for the answer Woody

if the bearings are smooth as silk and show no sloppiness AND they are clean and properly lubricated,,,then i see no need to change them,,,folks i've seen bearings go 30-100,000 miles ..of course these were on street bikes,,,the owners didn't power-wash their bikes or aim the jets at the bearing seals...were in relatively dust free/water free environments....

just check em every time ya change your tires is a rough seat of the pants time schedule

you can of course assist in prolonging their life by following common sense notions mentioned above AND pre-empt premature failure by packing em with high speed waterproof boat trailer bearing grease if you routinely run in wet places or like to cross deep streams and the like...

later
woody

[FL_biker]

Woody,
Spent several hours reading the last few pages on here and didn't see any mention so here goes:
(search? who uses search?)


I have a 2007 Suzuki DL1000 Vstrom that I am considering the wheel conversion for.

One modification of note that I've done is I have a set of SV Racing Parts adapters to allow the use of 2003 (?) GSX-R 750 4-piston calipers on the front. I wasn't sure if it would cause clearance issues

What would the cost be for a set of wire-spoke wheels for this bike?

What I'm thinking is having a 2nd set of "off-road" wheels ( for TKC-80's in std size unless you recommend otherwise) that I'd use when I'm gonna do some exploring in Florida, and keep my stock wheels for my commute to work.

Additionally if I shipped a pair of Galfer Wave Rotors to you what would it cost to check/straighten them before attaching them to the front wheel..

Thanks

Dave in Dusty Doha, Qatar
Deployed Gov't Contractor

[woody's wheel works]

Originally Posted by FL_biker

Woody,
Spent several hours reading the last few pages on here and didn't see any mention so here goes:
(search? who uses search?)


I have a 2007 Suzuki DL1000 Vstrom that I am considering the wheel conversion for.

One modification of note that I've done is I have a set of SV Racing Parts adapters to allow the use of 2003 (?) GSX-R 750 4-piston calipers on the front. I wasn't sure if it would cause clearance issues i don't think there would be a problem

What would the cost be for a set of wire-spoke wheels for this bike?circa #2k if my memory serves me right

What I'm thinking is having a 2nd set of "off-road" wheels ( for TKC-80's in std size unless you recommend otherwise) that I'd use when I'm gonna do some exploring in Florida, and keep my stock wheels for my commute to work.i'd go with a 21'' up front and narrower 3.5x17 rear for off road work,,,add a steering dampener and your sand ride will turn into a joy-ride

Additionally if I shipped a pair of Galfer Wave Rotors to you what would it cost to check/straighten them before attaching them to the front wheel..we can check for free,,will need a hub or wheel to mount them to to confirm final run-out= less than 002'',,,,,straightening = $25-50+/-

Thanks

Dave in Dusty Doha, Qatar
Deployed Gov't Contractor

holler n thanks,

woody

[woody's wheel works]

sstewart
Gnarly Adventurer



Joined: Nov 2009
Location: Boaz,Alabama
Oddometer: 439


950 ADV

---

I have purchased another 950 ADV, I want to set it up for street only. What tire and wheel combo do you suggest?
no problem ,,,,go 19/17 running 110/80x19 front and 150/70x17 rear for all around great experience,,,check this link for all the options:

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=439443

I would like Excel wheels with orange logos if possible?
the Excel rims are no problem,,we may have a problem with the orange logos,,,silver rims come with red insignias,,black with yellow,,,FYI,,currently we have to strip and re-anodize the rims,,,[currently,there are only silver rims available,,,,although in the next bit of time i'll have factory anodized black/yellow logo rims coming my way].....perhaps some other inmate may know of orange Excel logo availability????

Would it be worth the savings to use the stock hubs and cush drive?
well,,you'd save about $900 or sell the oem ones and get the stronger/beefier/bling billets.
FYI,,,if ya want to go genuine tubeless,,,then the Caponord rims are the hot set-up ,,,i highly recommend using a billet hub on the rear at least with the Caponord x-laced rim [it has to do with the extra lateral forces placed on the spoke lugs,,,which is why i designed beefier lugs into the billet set-up for added ''peace of mind'']

OBTW,,if ya use standard 19/17 excels ,,we can seal them for tubeless @ $99ea

holler when you are ready or need more info/answers
woody

PS,,,hate to say this ,,BUT....if ya plan on trading your bike in to your dealer down the road,,check if he'll take your bike in with the trick wheels and hustle it as a value added feature or will only accept it with oem wheels as some inmates have reported and lamented..

[FL_biker]

Originally Posted by FL_BIKER

Originally Posted by FL_biker
Woody,
Spent several hours reading the last few pages on here and didn't see any mention so here goes:
(search? who uses search?)


I have a 2007 Suzuki DL1000 Vstrom that I am considering the wheel conversion for.

One modification of note that I've done is I have a set of SV Racing Parts adapters to allow the use of 2003 (?) GSX-R 750 4-piston calipers on the front. I wasn't sure if it would cause clearance issues i don't think there would be a problem

What would the cost be for a set of wire-spoke wheels for this bike?circa #2k if my memory serves me right

What I'm thinking is having a 2nd set of "off-road" wheels ( for TKC-80's in std size unless you recommend otherwise) that I'd use when I'm gonna do some exploring in Florida, and keep my stock wheels for my commute to work.i'd go with a 21'' up front and narrower 3.5x17 rear for off road work,,,add a steering dampener and your sand ride will turn into a joy-ride

Additionally if I shipped a pair of Galfer Wave Rotors to you what would it cost to check/straighten them before attaching them to the front wheel..we can check for free,,will need a hub or wheel to mount them to to confirm final run-out= less than 002'',,,,,straightening = $25-50+/-

Thanks

Dave in Dusty Doha, Qatar
Deployed Gov't Contractor

Woody,
Regarding the damper - unfortunately with the 1" up, 1" back risers I'm running (I'm only 5'4" so they were a must) I haven't found a damper that will work without some custom machining :(

Also, some other questions

1) Wheel Clearance:

Someone mentioned to me that the 21" wheel can cause radiator clearance issues - would there also be issues with the fender to where I'd need to fab up a high fender?

I also have a fork brace on the bike - another issue?

2) Someone else mentioned via PM that I could go to Rad directly and save $$, and while I like saving money I'd like to give you the opportunity to tell me what added value I'd be getting from YOU that I wouldn't get from THEM in terms of service, customization or whatever else you'd bring to the table.

3) If I went with your recommended wheel sizes, what would the corresponding tire sizes be.

4) Would the recommended sizes still be tubeless? I like the ability to just plug a puncture and keep rolling after airing it up (knock on wood - in the 16,600 miles I rode in June/July I didn't have a single flat.)


I'm still in the research/planning stages so it'd be months till I'd do this if I go fwd with it at all...and I'm still paying off my VISA after my Alaska trip !!

Dave

[woody's wheel works]

Originally Posted by FL_biker

Woody,
Regarding the damper - unfortunately with the 1" up, 1" back risers I'm running (I'm only 5'4" so they were a must) I haven't found a damper that will work without some custom machining :(

there's abunch of good info in this thread,,,especially the models that fit on tot he fork legs,,,ya don't need all the fancy handlebar mounted units to get the basic benefits of stabilization
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=606689

Also, some other questions

1) Wheel Clearance:

Someone mentioned to me that the 21" wheel can cause radiator clearance issues - would there also be issues with the fender to where I'd need to fab up a high fender? again ,,i have buildt wheels for people already,,,and haven't heard much about the outcome,,,,will check with zach if he heard of any negatives/suggestions

I also have a fork brace on the bike - another issue?again,,,don't know where it's mounted ,,pics and clearance measurements please

2) Someone else mentioned via PM that I could go to Rad directly and save $$, and while I like saving money I'd like to give you the opportunity to tell me what added value I'd be getting from YOU that I wouldn't get from THEM in terms of service, customization or whatever else you'd bring to the table. why don't ya start a thread and ask the inmates that question,,,IMHO or not so humble opinion,,,i do my damndest to take good care of all of you,,,,

here's another thread where customers have chimed in:
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=646947


and a recent thread regarding RAD:
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=719351

3) If I went with your recommended wheel sizes, what would the corresponding tire sizes be. 90/90x21 front ,,,,150/70x17 rear

4) Would the recommended sizes still be tubeless? I like the ability to just plug a puncture and keep rolling after airing it up (knock on wood - in the 16,600 miles I rode in June/July I didn't have a single flat.)FYI,,,currently we only seal rims with safety beads on them ,,,so we essentially can do all but the current 21'' sizes


I'm still in the research/planning stages so it'd be months till I'd do this if I go fwd with it at all...and I'm still paying off my VISA after my Alaska trip !!

Dave

holler when you are ready

woody

[DirtyADV]

Bought a rim and some spokes from you a while ago but haven´t gotten around to lacing them until now but ran into trouble with the spokes seeing to short:

http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=472477

/Johan

[woody's wheel works]

Originally Posted by Dirty950

Bought a rim and some spokes from you a while ago but haven´t gotten around to lacing them until now but ran into trouble with the spokes seeing to short:

http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=472477

/Johan

hallo johan!!!
just checked your thread and looked at the pics,,,outside of the aesthetics of seeing threads you hav eno worries as to strength or wheel coming apart.

FYI: the rule of thumb is you minimally want to have the usable minimum thread length be equal to the OD of the threads....which is why the height of a nut is normally equivalent to the OD of the bolt/screw

i'll check with Zach to see what lengths he sent ya... when we Superlace our wheels we countersink the rims to achieve a perfect seat and accurate direction for the nipples,,,allowing the nipple to go in a lil bit further,,,if you look at BMW and KTM wheels the majority of them all have even more thread showing....FYI,,it certainly makes wheel lacing easier and quicker....not to mention minimizing the possibilities of scratching the rim

let me know what you'd like to do

skol
woody

[MZcountryboy]

Looking to get a quote on some wheels for my X-challenge - 18/21 size, new hubs, blingtacular blue finish, excels, and super tough lacing.

Thanks -

Scott

[1WD]

G'day Woody,
You guys built some wheels for me a few years ago. I've probably put about 10,000km on them, I've noticed a crack next to one of the nipples on the rim.
In a recent post you mention that you countersink the nipples when you superlace, reckon that would have contributed to this? (see pics)

[tsiklonaut]

Hi Woody,

Don't know if it's been asked before, can't find any info, but can you fit R100/80GS 21" front 18" rear tubeless rims into R1100GS hubs to make true tubeless 21"/18" wheels for R1100GS??? (I don't want any superlace etc superstrong wheels, I need a true tubeless 21"/18" solution)

If yes, how much it'd cost to make 'em if I send you the R1100 hubs and R80/100 rims?

PS: Provided it's possible to make 'em, do you also anodize rims? (My original 19"/17" are anodized and they are a joy to clean and maintain, but I know the older (Akront?) GS rims are bastards in those terms since they corrode, so wondering if separately anadozing the rims is a solution for it)

TIA,
Margus
(visited and used your nice workshop in 2009 during our RTW, but you were in Europe then, we even got 2 of those famous t-shirts )

[woody's wheel works]

Originally Posted by MZcountryboy

Looking to get a quote on some wheels for my X-challenge - 18/21 size, new hubs, blingtacular blue finish, excels, and super tough lacing.

Thanks -

Scott

They only sell blue rims from excel in 2.15x18 rear (2.5x18 is stock), so for the rims to match we would have to use silver excel's and re-anodize them blue.

If you were to send in your hubs and we laced new blue excel rims in stock sizes it would breakdown like this.

Front 21 x 1.6 silver excel-138 (blue is 166) or 75 per rim to re-anodize to match
Rear 18 x 2.5 silver excel-166 (blue 2.15x18 is 190)
Stainless spokes/nipples-135x2=270
Superlace/true-111x2=222
New oem hubs are 325 ea.

It would be $946 to re-build your hubs with stock size blue rims. $1596 if you want a whole new set.

IF you have any questions, don't hesitate to contact us.

thanks zach and the crew.\

PS,,and don't forget you get a www T-shirt or hat tossed into the deal.