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Old 01-26-2008, 07:23 PM   #661
rufus
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[quote=woody's wheel works]circa $900 with rad hub and cush drive BLING and strength,,,circan $720 with oem cush drive hub and sprocket carrier,,,superlaced,,,,[/quot




How much without cush drive. I want the strongest spokes and rim,superlaced.
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Old 01-27-2008, 01:12 AM   #662
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you'd save $100-200 ,,,but WHY would you want to???

[quote=rufus]
Quote:
Originally Posted by woody's wheel works
circa $900 with rad hub and cush drive BLING and strength,,,circan $720 with oem cush drive hub and sprocket carrier,,,superlaced,,,,[/quot




How much without cush drive. I want the strongest spokes and rim,superlaced.
rufus,,,wake up!!!!,,,the item we replace most on ALL the big 4 stroke singles is broken/shattered rear hubs,,NO BRAND is exempt!!!,,,

i assume we are building a new wheel for you from the ground up,,,it is the perfect time to build what works best,,not just now but in the long run,,,

realize you are riding a grenade with the stock hubs,,,they came from the same suppliers and parts bin from the 2 stroke powered bikes,,,'tis the power stroke,,, of the 4 banger that is overwhelming the sprocket carrier bolts and actually EVERY component in the drivetrain from the end of the crankshaft to the tire contact patch on the ground,,,,

all of you 4 stroke riders that haven't heard my spiel already,,,

visualize a middle weight boxer getting two quick jabs at you,,,say with 400 lbs a pop,,,now a bigger dude gives you one big 800lb pop in the head,,,
would you like that with or without a boxing glove,,????,,either way you ARE going down,,,,but your face will suffer more from his fistthan with his boxing glove on,,, and that's the difference between 2 stroke power and 4 stroke power ,,,,,,without cush drive and with cush drive,,,your choice

i await your decision,,,woody

PS,,,i am assuming of course that you are RIDING you bike not pussyfooting thru the countryside
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Old 01-27-2008, 10:06 AM   #663
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[quote=woody's wheel works]
Quote:
Originally Posted by rufus
rufus,,,wake up!!!!,,,the item we replace most on ALL the big 4 stroke singles is broken/shattered rear hubs,,NO BRAND is exempt!!!,,,

i assume we are building a new wheel for you from the ground up,,,it is the perfect time to build what works best,,not just now but in the long run,,,

realize you are riding a grenade with the stock hubs,,,they came from the same suppliers and parts bin from the 2 stroke powered bikes,,,'tis the power stroke,,, of the 4 banger that is overwhelming the sprocket carrier bolts and actually EVERY component in the drivetrain from the end of the crankshaft to the tire contact patch on the ground,,,,

all of you 4 stroke riders that haven't heard my spiel already,,,

visualize a middle weight boxer getting two quick jabs at you,,,say with 400 lbs a pop,,,now a bigger dude gives you one big 800lb pop in the head,,,
would you like that with or without a boxing glove,,????,,either way you ARE going down,,,,but your face will suffer more from his fistthan with his boxing glove on,,, and that's the difference between 2 stroke power and 4 stroke power ,,,,,,without cush drive and with cush drive,,,your choice

i await your decision,,,woody

PS,,,i am assuming of course that you are RIDING you bike not pussyfooting thru the countryside


I didn't mean to imply that i wanted a stock hub.I have replaced Maico, Honda Yamaha and Kawasaki hubs. I had a cross 6 spoke pattern wheel from Meryls pro wheel in about 1981. Heavy but super strong. You listed OEM and RAD cush drive. I don't want OEM. $900 was more than i expected. I just wanted to know the price difference between cush and standard. What is available? What is better? I looked through your website but couldn't get all my questions answered there. The bearing hole is wallowed out on my hub. I have shimmed it with feeler gauges. I have ridden and raced for thousands of miles with shimmed hubs. But I am riding my 525 on the Trans am Trail this summer and i don't want a breakdown in the middle of nowhere. I don't know how much better a cush drive is for the driveline and don't know the cost difference. Although i would like to know. Thanks for your time.
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Old 01-27-2008, 10:17 AM   #664
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PS,,,i am assuming of course that you are RIDING you bike not pussyfooting thru the countryside[/quote]





50 years old, 260lbs. A rider. I ride hard, fast and long. Just not as often as i used to.--2004 over 40 A class champion in the blackjack enduro circuit. The only time i ever rode enduros. Some hare scrambles championships from about 20 years ago. Now i mostly do long trail rides and Dualsport rides.
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Old 01-27-2008, 04:20 PM   #665
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you ARE the reason i build em like this,,

Quote:
Originally Posted by rufus
PS,,,i am assuming of course that you are RIDING you bike not pussyfooting thru the countryside



50 years old, 260lbs. A rider. I ride hard, fast and long. Just not as often as i used to.--2004 over 40 A class champion in the blackjack enduro circuit. The only time i ever rode enduros. Some hare scrambles championships from about 20 years ago. Now i mostly do long trail rides and Dualsport rides.[/quote]

man after my own heart,,,you will be glad you went with cush drive ,,,even the oem is better than no cush drive whether it's the oem solid hub or RAD's billet unit or a Talon,,,, the billets just break later
woody
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Old 01-28-2008, 12:03 PM   #666
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Just wanted to drop in and give a thumbs up to the crew at Woody's. I had banged up the front rim on my SXC after trying to ride it back to the truck when I shoulda just sucked it up and changed the tube.

Turns out it was not only bent but cracked. The crew at Woody's sourced me a good used DID and laced my hub to it. They got it turned around quick and the communication was excellent.

I highly recommend Woddy's to anyone.

Cheers
Brett
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Old 01-28-2008, 05:12 PM   #667
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folks,,there's nothing wrong with OEM KTM cush drive hubs

[quote=rufus]
Quote:
Originally Posted by woody's wheel works



I didn't mean to imply that i wanted a stock hub.I have replaced Maico, Honda Yamaha and Kawasaki hubs. I had a cross 6 spoke pattern wheel from Meryls pro wheel in about 1981. Heavy but super strong. You listed OEM and RAD cush drive. I don't want OEM. $900 was more than i expected. I just wanted to know the price difference between cush and standard. What is available? What is better? I looked through your website but couldn't get all my questions answered there. The bearing hole is wallowed out on my hub. I have shimmed it with feeler gauges. I have ridden and raced for thousands of miles with shimmed hubs. But I am riding my 525 on the Trans am Trail this summer and i don't want a breakdown in the middle of nowhere. I don't know how much better a cush drive is for the driveline and don't know the cost difference. Although i would like to know. Thanks for your time.
i just want to reiterate that if you are price conscious AND you want to keep from breaking your 4stroke KTM singles hubs,,,the cush drive that KTM adopted for their LC-4 Supermoto works fabulous on all the 4 stroke dirt bikes....the RAD hubs are stronger and have the bling factor down with all the colors ya can choose,,,,

OBTW,,they made the cush drive for the supermoto because the second they started playing on pavement,,,the extra resistance of the pavement ,,,naturally hammered the cushless hubs to hell,,,FYI,,,dirt is/was part of the cushion factored in to why so many dirt bikes sport cushless hubs

woody
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Old 01-30-2008, 11:34 AM   #668
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I'm interested in a spare set of wheels for an '07 KTM 950 Super Enduro. I want to be able to change tires from knobby dual sportish to commuting streetish by quickly changing wheels.

Can you save me $ over a set of OEM wheels and rotors if I go with the same size?


I'm a little reluctant to screw with the geometry too much by drastically changing wheel diameter altho I have read that a 17 rear and 19 front maintains stock numbers. I see that you really like this change for street use on an Adventure. Will the size change work on a SE as well or is the starting front end geometry different??


Recomendations?

Thanks

Steve
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Old 01-30-2008, 02:46 PM   #669
rufus
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[quote=woody's wheel works]
Quote:
Originally Posted by rufus
i just want to reiterate that if you are price conscious AND you want to keep from breaking your 4stroke KTM singles hubs,,,the cush drive that KTM adopted for their LC-4 Supermoto works fabulous on all the 4 stroke dirt bikes....the RAD hubs are stronger and have the bling factor down with all the colors ya can choose,,,,

OBTW,,they made the cush drive for the supermoto because the second they started playing on pavement,,,the extra resistance of the pavement ,,,naturally hammered the cushless hubs to hell,,,FYI,,,dirt is/was part of the cushion factored in to why so many dirt bikes sport cushless hubs

woody

What I (and probably a lot others) really want to know is HOW MUCH stronger is the rad hub than oem? Can that question be answered?



Most of my trouble has been bearing holes wallowed out. I have only broken 2 hubs, A Maico and a kx 500. Bling means absolutely nothing to me. Can you give me an exact price oem vs rad? Thanks

rufus screwed with this post 01-30-2008 at 03:02 PM
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Old 01-30-2008, 07:18 PM   #670
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boy i'd love to give you an exact answer on the exact amount of extra strength

[quote=rufus]
Quote:
Originally Posted by woody's wheel works


What I (and probably a lot others) really want to know is HOW MUCH stronger is the rad hub than oem? Can that question be answered?]

i'll talk with my buddies at RAD and see if they have that answer,,,what i can tell you is that RAD starts with billet 6061-T6,,,,,,then when the prototype was done i requested several design changes that beefed up the areas surrounding the lugs on the hub to minimize stretch/possibility of breakage,,,remember i was also stacking the deck in our favor on the odd chance i'd also use these hubs when adapting them to the tubeless Caponord rims...i knew exactly where the extra beef needed to be



[Most of my trouble has been bearing holes wallowed out. I have only broken 2 hubs, A Maico and a kx 500. Bling means absolutely nothing to me. Can you give me an exact price oem vs rad? Thanks
your bearing holes wallowing out on those models stemmed from a very soft casting as well as bearing spacers made of too soft an alloy,,,these would start to collapse,,,the bearing would heat up,,,the hub would heat up,,,thus enlarging the id of the hole,,,the compressed bearings started spinning in the hub,,,disaster followed sooner rather than later,,,KTM's went hrough a horrible couple of years not too long ago,,,with this problem,,,i can't tell you how many wheels/hubs we upgraded by building custom 6061-T6 spacers .020" longer than the inside edge to edge distance that the bearings rested on in th ehub

then there was all the spoke heads cracking off,,,followed by all the Behr butter-ball rims turning to mush,,,,,lord knows what's next

the exact price depends on what package we put together for you,,,there's $150 dfference beeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeetween an oem and the RAD set-up
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........If you're lost???... GPS = 39*40'33.86N x 104*59'54.69W

woody's wheel works screwed with this post 02-17-2008 at 04:27 PM
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Old 01-31-2008, 06:27 AM   #671
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Quote:
Originally Posted by woody's wheel works
may i suggest a black anodized 1.85x21'' Excel,,,if it's to work with your oem rear18 rear you'll want the satin finish to match your rear..they are circa $200

if you want to upgrade ,,,now's the time to do it ,,,and the SUPERLACE is the hot set-up,,,tis the end of dicking around with broken oem spokes and wheels goin gout of true,,,,anyone who's had me do this will confirmtis the best investment they made on their wheels,,,
Thanks for the quote!!! At the end my local dealer was able to get a Super Enduro front rim for me for $220, and since I live in Mexico, ordering from you, getting it to the border, then accross the border etc, gets timely and expensive...

I hope we can do business in the future, In the meantime I just have an additional question for you: My SE rim is getting here on Tuesday of next week, BUT I have an important ride coming up this weekend and I dont want to miss it for anything...do you know of any instances where a bent stock rim has failed or become unsafe? My rim is pretty bent, but not as bad as some I have seen on this forum. None of the spokes have been bent or become loose...I will obviuosly try to avoid going over rocks or obstacles at high speed.

Thanks for your great hekp!!!
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Old 01-31-2008, 07:09 AM   #672
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Hi, everybody!

I just want to put in a quick plug and a big thank you for Woody and Chris. I sent them both wheels from my '01 1150GS and had them completely re-laced. The turn-around was amazingly fast, the job top quality, and the price pretty well impossible to beat for a hand-built wheel. Oh, did I mention that they look absolutely beautiful now, too?

Thanks, Woody! Thanks, Chris! You guys have won my business for life.

Bohdan
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Old 01-31-2008, 11:58 AM   #673
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it's better to have tight spokes on bent rim....than...

Quote:
Originally Posted by Santo
Thanks for the quote!!! At the end my local dealer was able to get a Super Enduro front rim for me for $220, and since I live in Mexico, ordering from you, getting it to the border, then accross the border etc, gets timely and expensive...

I hope we can do business in the future, In the meantime I just have an additional question for you: My SE rim is getting here on Tuesday of next week, BUT I have an important ride coming up this weekend and I dont want to miss it for anything...do you know of any instances where a bent stock rim has failed or become unsafe? My rim is pretty bent, but not as bad as some I have seen on this forum. None of the spokes have been bent or become loose...I will obviuosly try to avoid going over rocks or obstacles at high speed.

Thanks for your great hekp!!!
as long as you see no visible cracks in your rim,,,,
as long as enough of the bead is there to keep your tire from popping off
as long as the spokes are TIGHT,,,
as long as it is reasonably true,,,
as long as you drive within a safe speed of your talents

you should be good to go,,
good luck

woody
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........If you're lost???... GPS = 39*40'33.86N x 104*59'54.69W
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Old 01-31-2008, 03:46 PM   #674
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Quote:
Originally Posted by woody's wheel works
as long as you see no visible cracks in your rim,,,,
as long as enough of the bead is there to keep your tire from popping off
as long as the spokes are TIGHT,,,
as long as it is reasonably true,,,
as long as you drive within a safe speed of your talents

you should be good to go,,
good luck

woody
Thanks woody!!! Hope to do business with you in the future, you are a true professional...
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Old 02-01-2008, 02:27 PM   #675
KLRTucson
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1100 wheels on an 1150?

Hi Woody,

I did a search and posted in G spot with ambivalent results. Can I put wheels from a 95 100GS with ABS on my 2002 brembo ABS 1150 GS?.....I'd just like an extra set for offroad.......I don't mind if the ABS doesn't work, I don't use it off road anyways. Is it cut and dry?.........Thanks for all the advice you've given.........

Mike
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