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Old 06-30-2010, 01:32 PM   #15016
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its still too small

M
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Old 06-30-2010, 02:07 PM   #15017
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pierce
yer on a 'hybrid' now, so the frame geometry is all modified, due to the different bars and more relaxed riding position vs a classic road bike with drop bars.

essentially, if you feel 'cramped' front to rear, you want a longer top tube, if you feel too stretched out, you want a shorter one. you can compensate some with the gooseneck length and type of bars you're using...

like, switching from these 'mustache' bars,


to these almost-straight ones


made a big difference in my reach and bar height. I like my bars just about at my seat height, this is a relaxed position relative to a racer, but nowhere near the 'sit up and beg' position of the typical cruiser or hybrid/comfort bike

on my old road-touring bike, I have the dropbars set so the top of them is an inch or two lower than the seat, so riding on the tops is relatively relaxed, and of course, the drops are something like 4-5" lower for a more aggressive hill climbing and riding into the wind. due to my beer belly, this is no longer comfortable.
Where it is right now it's fine for short or leisurely rides, but on the longer ones I feel Ike I'd be more comfortable with the bars down and for ward at least an inch or two.

Especially when going up hills.
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Old 06-30-2010, 02:26 PM   #15018
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EvilGenius
Where it is right now it's fine for short or leisurely rides, but on the longer ones I feel Ike I'd be more comfortable with the bars down and for ward at least an inch or two.

Especially when going up hills.
you probably have bars that look something like these ?



swapping them for something like a almost-straight mountainbike bar would likely put your hands a few inches lower and forward without any other changes. next step is swapping the gooseneck.

mtn bike bars come in a variety of bends, too


I'd suggest #4 or #3 style.
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Old 06-30-2010, 02:33 PM   #15019
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pierce
you probably have bars that look something like these ?



swapping them for something like a almost-straight mountainbike bar would likely put your hands a few inches lower and forward without any other changes. next step is swapping the gooseneck.

mtn bike bars come in a variety of bends, too


I'd suggest #4 or #3 style.
Yes, those are the ones.

My LBS has the straight bars you're talking about, they also have an adjustable (neck angle up and down) goose neck that would fit perfectly and put the bars out about another inch.

Actually, that's sounds like a good idea.
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Old 06-30-2010, 08:25 PM   #15020
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Originally Posted by Askel
I'd offer to ride with you tonight, but I gotta get home and pack for a 4 day tour down to Marinette, WI this weekend.

Enjoy the new ride. Shoot me a PM if you want to go riding sometime.
ended up bailing on the ride as a side job opened up for the evening so I got in some quality time with an echo weed trimmer have fun in marinette and I'll keep the offer in mind
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Old 06-30-2010, 08:39 PM   #15021
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EvilGenius
Yes, those are the ones.

My LBS has the straight bars you're talking about, they also have an adjustable (neck angle up and down) goose neck that would fit perfectly and put the bars out about another inch.

Actually, that's sounds like a good idea.
I got a straight bar from a local recycled bike place's junk bin for like $5, ditto a random gooseneck was like $5. new that stuff is $25 and up. up so high it will make your nose bleed.

I found the really trick 700c wheels for a touring bike... Velocity Dyad wheels, can be had 36 spoke, with butted spokes, 24mm wide 700c rims suitable for fatter tires, strong as all get-out. $300 a pair. sigh.


ok, serious subject....

chainline offsets vs bottom bracket axle length. I've read everything on Sheldon's site, and I'm still confused. where are the sprockets on various crankset types vs the BB axle end ?

To explain... I'm switching this thing I'm building from a crappy stamped steel spotwelded triple to a compact road double.

near as I can eyeball without a bottom bracket or a crankset, the centerline of the rear sprocket is about 12-13mm past the edge of the 68mm wide bracket. half 68 is 34, plus 12 is 46, which is about where a mtb triple is normally. the BB that came on the bike was 121.5mm. Will the compact double work on the same BB, or will I need a different one?
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pierce screwed with this post 06-30-2010 at 08:52 PM
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Old 06-30-2010, 09:34 PM   #15022
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Old 07-01-2010, 01:33 AM   #15023
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pierce
building your own wheels from, say, Velocity Dyad or Synergy rims (classic look, modern materials == win win), you could easily spend $150 on a pair of rims, $72 on 36*2 good spokes at $1 each, and $150 for shimano 105 (midrange) hubs... see, thats $400 already before labor (figure about $100 shop cost to build two wheels by someone who's good).
actually, correction. you can buy a very nice set of factory built Velocity wheels in 28 or 32 or 36 spoke, with Dyad (for wider touring tires or 29er offroad) or the nice thin A23 rims (optimized for 700x23 skinny tires) for like $300.

I chose those two rims specifically because they don't have that extreme deep V look I find silly on a classic frame. also both are available machined for rim brakes. if your bike is all fat tube exotic geometry, then sure, go for deep V.
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Old 07-01-2010, 02:23 AM   #15024
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pierce
actually, correction. you can buy a very nice set of factory built Velocity wheels in 28 or 32 or 36 spoke, with Dyad (for wider touring tires or 29er offroad) or the nice thin A23 rims (optimized for 700x23 skinny tires) for like $300.

I chose those two rims specifically because they don't have that extreme deep V look I find silly on a classic frame. also both are available machined for rim brakes. if your bike is all fat tube exotic geometry, then sure, go for deep V.
Wheels can be had cheaper than that. Here's a set of Mavic CXP22 with Shimano 2200 hubs for $135 for the set. You can also spend more and get a lighter or better hub.
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Old 07-01-2010, 02:40 AM   #15025
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dahveed
Wheels can be had cheaper than that. Here's a set of Mavic CXP22 with Shimano 2200 hubs for $135 for the set. You can also spend more and get a lighter or better hub.
yeah, those wheels are a lot lighter, fine for a skinny dude on a high end road bike, but I would want a beefier rim, and 36 spokes in back for a cushy ride w/ my lard ass I found a 36H rear on that site for touring, by the time I put double butted (2-1.8mm) on it and yada yada, it was $315 for the set. and it was only suitable for max 28c tires. i want to use like 32 or even 40c, which that Velocity Dyad or Synergy rim should be great for.
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Old 07-01-2010, 09:01 AM   #15026
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I just got back from 5.5 miles. Yes, it is a big deal for me. It isn't getting much easier, but I'm doing it in higher gears. I'm sure going to miss doing this while I'm gone.
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Old 07-01-2010, 09:23 AM   #15027
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pilot
I just got back from 5.5 miles. Yes, it is a big deal for me. It isn't getting much easier, but I'm doing it in higher gears. I'm sure going to miss doing this while I'm gone.
Just don't stop spinning! 60rpm at the min. 90-100 is better.

1. saves yer knees
2. uses the aerobic system vs the muscular system. Guess which gets tired quicker?

HTH

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Old 07-01-2010, 09:25 AM   #15028
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pierce
yeah, those wheels are a lot lighter, fine for a skinny dude on a high end road bike, but I would want a beefier rim, and 36 spokes in back for a cushy ride w/ my lard ass I found a 36H rear on that site for touring, by the time I put double butted (2-1.8mm) on it and yada yada, it was $315 for the set. and it was only suitable for max 28c tires. i want to use like 32 or even 40c, which that Velocity Dyad or Synergy rim should be great for.
I run 34c cross tires on Mavic Reflex rims, so ignore the max tire thing.

Yeah, the wider rims'll be better, but if ya watch what yer hitting, ride em pumped up more'n 'cross pressures, you'll be OK.

Them CXP22s are tough rims.

HTH

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Old 07-01-2010, 10:13 AM   #15029
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gummee!
Just don't stop spinning! 60rpm at the min. 90-100 is better.

1. saves yer knees
2. uses the aerobic system vs the muscular system. Guess which gets tired quicker?

HTH

M
What do those RPMs look like?
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Old 07-01-2010, 10:22 AM   #15030
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EvilGenius
What do those RPMs look like?
60 RPM cadence would one full turn of the crank every second, eg, a leg stroke every half second. ONE-one-THOU-sand-TWO-one-THOU-sand-THREE,one,THOU-sand... etc.

90 RPM cadence is a turn and a half a second.

its hard to spin efficiently without cleats or clips. If you consciously make an effort to lift the leg on the upstroke while pushing down with the other leg (but not lift it off the pedal), you'll find your efficiency goes up significantly. with clipless or clips-n-straps, you can actually lift the pedal going up while pushing the one going down and power things all the way around, and get even higher efficiency.
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