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Old 09-19-2010, 08:15 PM   #17146
Cat0020
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pierce
um. I've got a fox float something-or-the-other on my Stumpjumper FSR, and just about every time I ride the bike, I have to pump it up to about 220 psi, and after a year of irregular riding, it needed new seals as it was leaking even faster. in what way did I not setup the shock properly?


maybe me being heavy is abusing the equipment. not much I can do about that until I can lose some weight.
then perhaps you should...
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Old 09-19-2010, 08:16 PM   #17147
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CatfishRacing
I'm only up to post 16,9xx but wanted to chime in.
Bought a 2007 Cannondale Optimo 2 last week to replace my 2001 Cannondale T2000 (which is now on NY Craig's List and probably headed for eBay).
Sold my 2008 Niner E.M.D. to help pay for it.
Rode the new bike to work today.
I had to work in two separate places today so it was a tick over 28 miles round trip.
Added Lone Peak panniers on the front rack and a Brooks B-17 saddle.
Bike is heavy as hell but it's like swinging two bats in the on deck circle right?
When I get on my Calfee Tetra-Tri it's going to feel like a rocket ship.
Going back to post 16,9xx.
Have a good night.
Sweet, new ride you got there. Though, you may find the gearing (36/26) a bit tough, in some situations.

Cyclocross bikes are the perfect all-arounders.
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Old 09-19-2010, 08:36 PM   #17148
Oznerol
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(Re)built a couple of wheels this weekend. One rim had gotten a flat spot on the long rough dirt road ride I did last month, and the other wasn't so great, either. Spokes and hubs looked to be in good shape, so I did a rim swap.

I don't know that new rims were really needed -- the flat spot wasn't that deep. But once or twice a year I like to spend a day with a truing stand and a spoke wrench.
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Old 09-19-2010, 09:12 PM   #17149
Oznerol
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pierce
I've got a fox float something-or-the-other on my Stumpjumper FSR, and just about every time I ride the bike, I have to pump it up to about 220 psi, and after a year of irregular riding, it needed new seals as it was leaking even faster.
Interesting. I've owned a couple of different full suspension bikes with air springs front and rear. When I got the first one, I was careful about checking the pressure on just about every ride. After a couple of months, I stopped being so neurotic -- the only air I was having to put into the shock was to replace whatever I'd let out when attaching the pump. Now I check mine maybe once every couple of months, and rarely find it more than 5 or 10 psi low.
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Old 09-19-2010, 09:33 PM   #17150
pierce
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phew, just mounted the conti ultra-gatorskin 25c on the vintage hoops I got for my kid's roadie. sweet tires, nice flexible sidewalls, they look and 'feel' (to the touch) like they will ride *MUCH* better than the specialized allcondition armadillo stuff (which ride like rocks on your rim). I pumped them up to 100psi (label said 95-120)

looked some more at the vintage duraace hubs. no sign of any P/N's on them. the hub shells just say Shimano (around the center part), they only say Dura-Ace on the dust seals. the rear does have 'TA' stamped under the Shimano logo. the couple drops of triflow that I let seep between the seal and axle seem to have penetrated enough to loosen up the old grease, and they spin pretty darn smoothly now. I still think I might want to clean and repack the rear, there's just a tiny bit of rough, feels like a crusty ball bearing rather than the race as the rough spot is *less* than once per turn, whether I spin the axle or the wheel.

these wheels are laced 36H 4-cross with fairly heavy gauge DT spokes (not double butted). they look strong as hell. as I said, Mavic Module-E2 rims, which have a full box construction, and lined spoke nipple holes.

this is a random google pic, not mine, but exact same rim.

I think I found some keepers, even if they are uniglide instead of hyperglide. the rims look hardly ridden on, as did the crusty old 80s vintage Specialized Touring II 25c tires that were on them.
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Old 09-19-2010, 09:37 PM   #17151
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All the riding I've been doing has affected me in the pool. Oh well. I'd rather ride than be fantastic at UW Hockey no matter how fun it is.

Played defense today. Only problem with that was the opposing team's forwards were faster'n our defense! Let a few goals thru that prolly shoulda been stopped, but due to inexperience and lack of O2, they got passed me/us.

I can see the difference in my abs. I plan on continuing the UW Hockey as a core workout no matter how tired the legs and lungs become.

M
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Old 09-19-2010, 09:40 PM   #17152
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pierce
phew, just mounted the conti ultra-gatorskin 25c on the vintage hoops I got for my kid's roadie. sweet tires, nice flexible sidewalls, they look and 'feel' (to the touch) like they will ride *MUCH* better than the specialized allcondition armadillo stuff (which ride like rocks on your rim). I pumped them up to 100psi (label said 95-120)

looked some more at the vintage duraace hubs. no sign of any P/N's on them. the hub shells just say Shimano (around the center part), they only say Dura-Ace on the dust seals. the rear does have 'TA' stamped under the Shimano logo. the couple drops of triflow that I let seep between the seal and axle seem to have penetrated enough to loosen up the old grease, and they spin pretty darn smoothly now. I still think I might want to clean and repack the rear, there's just a tiny bit of rough, feels like a crusty ball bearing rather than the race as the rough spot is *less* than once per turn, whether I spin the axle or the wheel.

these wheels are laced 36H 4-cross with fairly heavy gauge DT spokes (not double butted). they look strong as hell. as I said, Mavic Module-E2 rims, which have a full box construction, and lined spoke nipple holes.

this is a random google pic, not mine, but exact same rim.

I think I found some keepers, even if they are uniglide instead of hyperglide. the rims look hardly ridden on, as did the crusty old 80s vintage Specialized Touring II 25c tires that were on them.
IIRC the Module E2 was the rim right before the MA2 and MA40. Good stuff. Tough rims. Still box-section, so they're not *quite* as tough as say an Open Pro.

You can take the locknuts off the NDS and pull the axle out of the DS and clean up in there that way. Prolly don't even hafta take off the cassette if its a UG hub. You DO know to only take off one side at a time, right?!

M
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Old 09-19-2010, 09:55 PM   #17153
pierce
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gummee!
IIRC the Module E2 was the rim right before the MA2 and MA40. Good stuff. Tough rims. Still box-section, so they're not *quite* as tough as say an Open Pro.

You can take the locknuts off the NDS and pull the axle out of the DS and clean up in there that way. Prolly don't even hafta take off the cassette if its a UG hub. You DO know to only take off one side at a time, right?!

M
re: those mavic rims... I'm curious... how do the venerable SuperChampion Gentlemen compare? thats whats on my old frenchie (probably my 5th or 6th wheelset on that beast of burden).


Do I need to remove the dust seals on the hub to get in there and clean out things, or just fish around with qtips or whatever. it seems like getting the bearings back in the DS might be a real bitch with the dust seal that is attached to the cassette rather than the hub. Are these dust seals just press fit? or are they screwed on (they have what appear to be spanner holes on them, even the one thats on the cassette)

re: one side, yeah I'm hep to leaving one set of cone+locknut alone when doing hubs. its just been quite a while since I did any good ones (I"m not counting the cheap taiwan tincan hubs that were on that diamondback hybrid I built then flipped)

I'm going to need a 2nd 14mm cone wrench... Iv'e got an old 13-15, and a new 13-14, but both the cones and locknuts on these dura-ace hubs are 14mm, and the locknuts have like a flange with a finger knurl on them so I can't use a regular openend, has to be a thin cone wrench.
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Old 09-19-2010, 10:08 PM   #17154
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pierce
re: those mavic rims... I'm curious... how do the venerable SuperChampion Gentlemen compare? thats whats on my old frenchie (probably my 5th or 6th wheelset on that beast of burden).
Dunno they're before my time. Sorry.


Quote:
Do I need to remove the dust seals on the hub to get in there and clean out things, or just fish around with qtips or whatever. it seems like getting the bearings back in the DS might be a real bitch with the dust seal that is attached to the cassette rather than the hub. Are these dust seals just press fit? or are they screwed on (they have what appear to be spanner holes on them, even the one thats on the cassette)
The dust shields *should* pull straight out. Friction fit. Don't pry hard cause they do bend. IIRC the DS dust cap is the same. Me? if you can help it, leave em on. Less chance of an 'oops!' Clean em out with rags/solvents/q-tips/whatever and good em back up with grease.

Quote:
re: one side, yeah I'm hep to leaving one set of cone+locknut alone when doing hubs. its just been quite a while since I did any good ones (I"m not counting the cheap taiwan tincan hubs that were on that diamondback hybrid I built then flipped)

I'm going to need a 2nd 14mm cone wrench... Iv'e got an old 13-15, and a new 13-14, but both the cones and locknuts on these dura-ace hubs are 14mm, and the locknuts have like a flange with a finger knurl on them so I can't use a regular openend, has to be a thin cone wrench.
G'luck!

Don't forget to count the # of bearings that come out! IIRC there's 11/side, but that's going from an admittedly foggy memory. Front's (again IIRC) are 3/16th Rear's are 1/4"

M
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Old 09-19-2010, 10:29 PM   #17155
pierce
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gummee!
The dust shields *should* pull straight out. Friction fit. Don't pry hard cause they do bend. IIRC the DS dust cap is the same. Me? if you can help it, leave em on. Less chance of an 'oops!' Clean em out with rags/solvents/q-tips/whatever and good em back up with grease.
I've never seen a dust cover like that on a cassette. is that common practice on dura ace grade stuff?

I figure I'll do the front first as its easier, and only mess with the back after I got it right. I even picked up a overpriced tube of good old Phil Wood bearing grease... although I still can't tell the difference between it and the generic green marine grease I use on trailer wheels, hah.


re: cleaning, yeah... wd40 is my standard cleaning solvent, I get it in a gallon can, and use a trigger-squirt bottle. I figure its less abusive than a lot of stuff I could be using. the rare times I need to really degrease something, I use acetone, heh.

note to self. gallon can of WD-40 is nearly empty, time to restock.
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Old 09-20-2010, 03:56 AM   #17156
RichBeBe
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Funny...My bike hasn't been ridden since May, and I took it down to think about riding on Saturday, and when I hooked up the shock pump I was down about 15 pounds from where it should be. I figured this was from hooking the pump up. My Fox shock did not leak at all.
Shitty part is I decided not to ride, my shoulder is not ready, and no need to rush it. Other than my sanity!!!
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Old 09-20-2010, 05:46 AM   #17157
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pierce
um. I've got a fox float something-or-the-other on my Stumpjumper FSR, and just about every time I ride the bike, I have to pump it up to about 220 psi, and after a year of irregular riding, it needed new seals as it was leaking even faster. in what way did I not setup the shock properly?



maybe me being heavy is abusing the equipment. not much I can do about that until I can lose some weight.

and its a well known fact that air springs have a non-linear spring rate. this can be partially compensated by well designed suspension geometry, but it remains.
Did you check the valve core? It is 99% of the reason an air shock looses air. All suspension should be rebuilt on a yearly basis. sometimes sooner, sometimes you can go longer. Air or coil it does not matter, dirt gets inside and will start to score the stanchions. If you keep the shaft of the shock clean and the stanchions clean you can make you suspension last longer.

An air spring does have an non linear rate but that is built into most suspension designs. Shocks and forks of today are on par with coil springs and are much lighter.
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Old 09-20-2010, 09:07 AM   #17158
Askel
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New Fargo details are out of the bag:

http://salsacycles.com/culture/fargo_go_far_er_further/
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Old 09-20-2010, 09:34 AM   #17159
CatfishRacing
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ducnut
Sweet, new ride you got there. Though, you may find the gearing (36/26) a bit tough, in some situations.

Cyclocross bikes are the perfect all-arounders.
I dig my CX bikes, I also have a Kona Jake which I really like even with the Sora shifters.
I do need to mess with the gearing some on the new C-Dale.

My T2000 has a 30/42/52 up front with a 11-34 out back.
Granny gear can go up a wall.
I'm going to look into getting a 11-34 on the back of my Optimo but I might have to ditch the 105 derailer (Spelling as per Sheldon Brown) and go with a XTR mountain bike derailer or something.
Not sure yet.
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Old 09-20-2010, 09:59 AM   #17160
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RichBeBe
Funny...My bike hasn't been ridden since May, and I took it down to think about riding on Saturday, and when I hooked up the shock pump I was down about 15 pounds from where it should be. I figured this was from hooking the pump up. My Fox shock did not leak at all.
Shitty part is I decided not to ride, my shoulder is not ready, and no need to rush it. Other than my sanity!!!
You could be riding a trainer... At least yer leg would be moving around in circles.

I know they suck eggs, but something's better'n nuthin.

M
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