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Old 09-23-2010, 06:21 PM   #17206
Jeffy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pierce
those tires are *toast*. the chain too. the cables just on principle should be replaced.

you can juryrig the front derailleur to be in the middle gear, that will get you by til you fix the front shifter... but you sure its not just a busted cable? the end of that cable in the front derailleur closeup looks toast.

btw, I think Exage 400LX was a early 90s part group, rather than late 80s.
The shifter will move the derailer BUT it won't hold and goes back to the big cog.

The tires are toast. You can see the tubes though the sidewalls.

I'm not really sure when I got it but I do remember it was before '92 and I think it was before '91 as I was in HS by then and didn't ride it as much. Actually, I think it might be a '90-91 after all. Seems I found some pics with the same color scheme.

What's worth keeping and what should I replace it with if I was to do so? If it's cheap (couple hundred) I might consider rebuilding it. Hell, I might just ride it instead of getting a new bike if I can update it a little.
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Old 09-23-2010, 06:42 PM   #17207
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeffy
The shifter will move the derailer BUT it won't hold and goes back to the big cog.

The tires are toast. You can see the tubes though the sidewalls.

I'm not really sure when I got it but I do remember it was before '92 and I think it was before '91 as I was in HS by then and didn't ride it as much. Actually, I think it might be a '90-91 after all. Seems I found some pics with the same color scheme.

What's worth keeping and what should I replace it with if I was to do so? If it's cheap (couple hundred) I might consider rebuilding it. Hell, I might just ride it instead of getting a new bike if I can update it a little.
For general riding, a pair of tires (15-30$ ea) a pair of tubes at $5/ea and a set of 7 spd grip shifters for maybe $30 - cables are $3 ea if the housing is ok. Paying somebody to wrench it will be more $$ - and you also need to clean out and regrease/readjust all the bearings. DIY will require some bike specific tools, mostly thin wrenches and special spanners (hook and pin type).
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Old 09-23-2010, 06:57 PM   #17208
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wadester
For general riding, a pair of tires (15-30$ ea) a pair of tubes at $5/ea and a set of 7 spd grip shifters for maybe $30 - cables are $3 ea if the housing is ok. Paying somebody to wrench it will be more $$ - and you also need to clean out and regrease/readjust all the bearings. DIY will require some bike specific tools, mostly thin wrenches and special spanners (hook and pin type).
Yeah, I can probably do the minimal stuff. The shifters are integrated with the brakes though. So I assume I'd have to replace both together.

Now if I was wanting to modernize the bike and go with discs and a Rockshok, etc... What else should I consider changing out, (ie., what's outdated without just tossing the frame.)

I wonder if I could still get the bike tuned for free. The shop I bought it from is still in business.

I'm used to working on cars not bikes but some stuff is easy to do.
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Old 09-23-2010, 07:41 PM   #17209
pierce
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeffy
Now if I was wanting to modernize the bike and go with discs and a Rockshok, etc... What else should I consider changing out, (ie., what's outdated without just tossing the frame.)
ferget it. lift the seat and drive another bike under it if that what you want.

that frame won't take disk brakes. suspension forks require a different geometry frame with a higher steering tube.

best thing to do with that bike would be service everything on it (clean, repack all bearings, replace all cables, replace broken shifters, with SRAM grip-shifts. use the microfriction front, not the index... get the 6-7-8 speed rear according to how many gears on your rear wheel). This is labor intensive, but not at all parts price intensive. put street oriented 1.5-1.9" slicks on it and use it as a 'city-bike'.

but if the wheels are funky, like non-stainless spokes that are corroded, forget it. if there's significant structural rust anywhere, forget it.
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Old 09-23-2010, 08:09 PM   #17210
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pierce
ferget it. lift the seat and drive another bike under it if that what you want.

that frame won't take disk brakes. suspension forks require a different geometry frame with a higher steering tube.

best thing to do with that bike would be service everything on it (clean, repack all bearings, replace all cables, replace broken shifters, with SRAM grip-shifts. use the microfriction front, not the index... get the 6-7-8 speed rear according to how many gears on your rear wheel). This is labor intensive, but not at all parts price intensive. put street oriented 1.5-1.9" slicks on it and use it as a 'city-bike'.

but if the wheels are funky, like non-stainless spokes that are corroded, forget it. if there's significant structural rust anywhere, forget it.
I don't like the seat at all!

There is a little surface rust here and there but nothing major. The wheels are OK although the front one needs to be straightened or replaced.

The front brakes are integrated with the shifters so I suspect I'll have to replace both. Are the twist shifters better then the rapidfires?

I saw this pic. Love how it looks.

http://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?t=411607
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Old 09-23-2010, 08:59 PM   #17211
pierce
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeffy
I don't like the seat at all!

There is a little surface rust here and there but nothing major. The wheels are OK although the front one needs to be straightened or replaced.

The front brakes are integrated with the shifters so I suspect I'll have to replace both. Are the twist shifters better then the rapidfires?

I saw this pic. Love how it looks.

http://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?t=411607
for road/hybrid purposes, the twist shifters are quite reasonable.. Maybe less so for extreme mounting riding, but thats not the sort of bike you'll be doing that on anyways. finding 6 or 7-speed trigger shifters will be challenging (I don't feel like digging back and counting sprockets on your picture, but I thought I saw 6 on the rear?)

I love thumb shifters but they aren't easy to find good ones. IMHO, the best were the early/mid 80's Suntour friction thumb shifters but many others would disagree. one nice thing about friction shifters is you don't care how many gears you have and cable adjustments are totally non-critical, as you fine tune the shift each time.

your shifters may well be repairable, it might just be something inside is too loose, or the ratchet pawls need cleaning.
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Old 09-23-2010, 09:25 PM   #17212
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pierce
for road/hybrid purposes, the twist shifters are quite reasonable.. Maybe less so for extreme mounting riding, but thats not the sort of bike you'll be doing that on anyways. finding 6 or 7-speed trigger shifters will be challenging (I don't feel like digging back and counting sprockets on your picture, but I thought I saw 6 on the rear?)

I love thumb shifters but they aren't easy to find good ones. IMHO, the best were the early/mid 80's Suntour friction thumb shifters but many others would disagree. one nice thing about friction shifters is you don't care how many gears you have and cable adjustments are totally non-critical, as you fine tune the shift each time.

your shifters may well be repairable, it might just be something inside is too loose, or the ratchet pawls need cleaning.
It's a 3x7. Maybe I'll try to take the shifter apart again and see if I can fix it. Maybe it just needs to be greased.

I've seen some STX's on ebay for under $50 which might be worth it. If I'm not going to be upgrading it I'd rather try to keep it as original as possible.
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Old 09-23-2010, 09:39 PM   #17213
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Cranked up the way-back machine. And this got spit out.

An old video, there are some more to follow with Rich and I riding this same course at what appears to be a pace not too much off old women on ice with walkers.
Rich broke his finger protecting his camera. I had a wrist issue which lead to scotch and hands in the ice chest on the way home. But, that was a couple of weeks prior to the Worlds.
These people were scary fast.
1994 Grundig World Downhill Championships at Vail, Colorado




Not the greatest, but I schlepped a big VHS camera up and down the mountain for a day.

Fried my heated vest on the way over burning little designs into my hide along the way.
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Old 09-23-2010, 11:09 PM   #17214
pierce
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeffy
It's a 3x7. Maybe I'll try to take the shifter apart again and see if I can fix it. Maybe it just needs to be greased.

I've seen some STX's on ebay for under $50 which might be worth it. If I'm not going to be upgrading it I'd rather try to keep it as original as possible.

k, 7 speed is much much easier to find shifters for. any sort of used bike place should ahve all kinda choices in 7 speed shifters...

here's the current cheap shimano brifter (brake+shifter) set for 7-speed
http://www.jensonusa.com/store/produ...Lever+Set.aspx
this is a trigger shifter like you have now.
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Old 09-23-2010, 11:24 PM   #17215
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pierce
k, 7 speed is much much easier to find shifters for. any sort of used bike place should ahve all kinda choices in 7 speed shifters...

here's the current cheap shimano brifter (brake+shifter) set for 7-speed
http://www.jensonusa.com/store/produ...Lever+Set.aspx
this is a trigger shifter like you have now.
Ah, cool! For that price I'll fix my old bike.

My original tires are 26x1.95". What size can I use? I'd like to maybe go with a fatter tire. 26x2.25"? What are some good cross tires? All-mountain?
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Old 09-24-2010, 12:04 AM   #17216
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeffy
Ah, cool! For that price I'll fix my old bike.

My original tires are 26x1.95". What size can I use? I'd like to maybe go with a fatter tire. 26x2.25"? What are some good cross tires? All-mountain?
cyclocross bikes use skinny 700c wheels and typically 700x28 or x32 or so tires.

all mountain is a pretty generic description. that is a non-suspended hardtail, its really more useful as a city bike rather than a hard core mountain bike. lots of choices. you could probably put anywhere from x1.5 to x2.25 on that bike without too much trouble. fatter wheels are heavier and slower. if you're going to ride on wet/loose stuff on hills, go for more knobs. if you're going to ride mostly on dirt roads and hard pack trails that aren't too steep or loose, slicks or sem islicks are fine. me, I'd get a 1.9" semi-slick, like a Specialized Hemisphere.
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Old 09-24-2010, 06:45 AM   #17217
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeffy
It's a 3x7. Maybe I'll try to take the shifter apart again and see if I can fix it. Maybe it just needs to be greased.

I've seen some STX's on ebay for under $50 which might be worth it. If I'm not going to be upgrading it I'd rather try to keep it as original as possible.
Don't take the shifter apart. They can be a pain to get back together properly. Spray it with PB blaster or WD40. Work the shifter through the gears a bit. Repeat. Then let it sit for a day. When you come back the shifter probaly will work just fine. Unless the first time you took it apart you might have screwed something up. A new shifter/brake lever set will run you about $30. Make sure they are cantilever compatible (most are not and most bike shop employees do not know the difference).
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Old 09-24-2010, 07:40 AM   #17218
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr Head
1994 Grundig World Downhill Championships at Vail, Colorado

Fucking awesome!

More!

Really, how exactly did purple anodized aluminum ever go out of style?
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Old 09-24-2010, 08:18 AM   #17219
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Askel
Fucking awesome!

More!

Really, how exactly did purple anodized aluminum ever go out of style?
I have some of me and my buddy riding. I need to do some editing and restoration. This movie making thing takes a bit of time.
You know this isn't "The Valley" where we can just through together a blockbuster pron vid in a few minutes.

I have some purple anodized skewers on my old mtb.


Those from back when cotton was not king and music sucked but was played for plastic dance floors filled with polyester clad people and lots of lights and really big sound. Professionally ugly clothes not like those cheater golf outfits either.
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Old 09-24-2010, 12:48 PM   #17220
pierce
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Quote:
Originally Posted by trailer Rails
Don't take the shifter apart. They can be a pain to get back together properly. Spray it with PB blaster or WD40. Work the shifter through the gears a bit. Repeat. Then let it sit for a day. When you come back the shifter probaly will work just fine. Unless the first time you took it apart you might have screwed something up. A new shifter/brake lever set will run you about $30. Make sure they are cantilever compatible (most are not and most bike shop employees do not know the difference).
this one is either short or long pull brakes, and available in silver or black
http://www.jensonusa.com/store/produ...Lever+Set.aspx


$23 plus the usual $6 or so for USPS priority, thats $30 at your door unless you're in California and pay the extra 8% to the Guvenator. I've ordered quite a lot from Jenson and gotten fast service (I'll hit up my LBS first if I thnk they have it, then go to Jenson if they don't)

I dug up the ST-EF50 P/N of those on Shimano's site, they are used with Altus and Tourney... if you could find the 'Deore' version, they'd be nicer but also more expensive, catch-22, new Deore stuff is 9-10 speed, not 7 or 8 speed.
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