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Old 10-04-2010, 07:39 AM   #17326
pierce
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ducnut
Shopping by pricepoint means not worrying much about weight. Get what'll look good. Have a look here. They're local to me and have a lot more than what's listed.
he's talking about wheels for a mid 90s unsuspended steel frame mountain bike. I have no idea why he brought 'weight' into the picture.
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Old 10-04-2010, 07:43 AM   #17327
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pierce
he's talking about wheels for a mid 90s unsuspended steel frame mountain bike. I have no idea why he brought 'weight' into the picture.
I'm just going with it.
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Old 10-04-2010, 08:02 AM   #17328
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ducnut
I'm just going with it.
Also, I doubt there are any disc mounts on the frame or fork.
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Old 10-04-2010, 08:14 AM   #17329
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Originally Posted by trailer Rails
Also, I doubt there are any disc mounts on the frame or fork.
there aren't. but its steel! it coudl be BRAZED! YAH BÉBE!











edit: disclaimer: this is a really really bad idea on your forks. they are not engineered for the torque moment induced by a disk brake. brazing the brake mounting bosses onto the forks will weaken them. ditto the rear seat stay. this message brought to you by CYA and Partners, a Limited Liability Firm....
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Old 10-04-2010, 08:24 AM   #17330
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pierce
there aren't. but its steel! it coudl be BRAZED! YAH BÉBE!











edit: disclaimer: this is a really really bad idea on your forks. they are not engineered for the torque moment induced by a disk brake. brazing the brake mounting bosses onto the forks will weaken them. ditto the rear seat stay. this message brought to you by CYA and Partners, a Limited Liability Firm....
How long do you think this repair will hold? The paint was starting to flake at the head tube around the welds. I figured it needed a little bracing.

I am not sure what I am going to do with the bike, truthfully I don't trust it for hard riding anymore. Maybe a nice single speed around town cruiser.




I remember seeing a write up on the old specialized frames and how to remove the rear drop out by heating up the brazed weld and pulling the drop out out of the frame. Then heat it up and reinstall a horizontal drop out.
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Old 10-04-2010, 08:30 AM   #17331
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Originally Posted by trailer Rails
I remember seeing a write up on the old specialized frames and how to remove the rear drop out by heating up the brazed weld and pulling the drop out out of the frame. Then heat it up and reinstall a horizontal drop out.
brazing and welding are two totally different things. brazing is like soldering with brass or silver, the material you're connecting only gets heated up to a dull red, not to its melting point. welding, you're actually using the *same* metal, hence heating the work up to its melting point.
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Old 10-04-2010, 08:44 AM   #17332
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Originally Posted by pierce
brazing and welding are two totally different things. brazing is like soldering with brass or silver, the material you're connecting only gets heated up to a dull red, not to its melting point. welding, you're actually using the *same* metal, hence heating the work up to its melting point.

Again, thank you captain obvious. I guess I should have said brazed joint? How much experience do you have with torches and welders?
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Old 10-04-2010, 08:49 AM   #17333
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Originally Posted by trailer Rails
Again, thank you captain obvious. I guess I should have said brazed joint? How much experience do you have with torches and welders?
just enough to know there's people who are much better at it than I

last thing I got up close to was helping my friend silver-braze these on my cruiser...

came out pretty good I do believe.
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Old 10-04-2010, 12:28 PM   #17334
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pierce
he's talking about wheels for a mid 90s unsuspended steel frame mountain bike. I have no idea why he brought 'weight' into the picture.
Yes, I understand it's basically like putting light weight Volks TE37's on an APC but the point is moot since I can't even go to discs even if I wanted to. Not a big deal really either. Oh and yes, I can weld... ...but no, I won't.

I've been looking at wheels, here:

http://wheelworld.com/product-list/w...5/26-inch-166/

Any specifics brands/models I should be looking at? Other sites? Better deals?
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Old 10-04-2010, 12:50 PM   #17335
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Originally Posted by Jeffy
I've been looking at wheels, here:

http://wheelworld.com/product-list/w...5/26-inch-166/

Any specifics brands/models I should be looking at? Other sites? Better deals?
whats wrong with the wheels you have? eg, what are you trying to 'fix' ?
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Old 10-04-2010, 01:17 PM   #17336
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Originally Posted by pierce
whats wrong with the wheels you have? eg, what are you trying to 'fix' ?
Out of true. The front is the worst. It deflects maybe 1/4"-1/2". I think it happened when my Dad looped it while trying to jump a curb. The rear has a minor 1/8" wobble but also has a throw. The shops want $25 to true one wheel. I might try to true it on my own.
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Old 10-04-2010, 01:29 PM   #17337
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Originally Posted by Jeffy
Out of true. The front is the worst. It deflects maybe 1/4"-1/2". I think it happened when my Dad looped it while trying to jump a curb. The rear has a minor 1/8" wobble but also has a throw. The shops want $25 to true one wheel. I might try to true it on my own.

side to side is fairly easy on traditionally spoked wheels. up and down less so, and if the rim has a bent flange, pretty much forget it. $25 is not unreasonable, its about a half hour of bench time to get a wheel not only straight but evenly tensioned so it will stay straight.

if the wheel has fewer than 32 spokes and/or those aerodynamic flattened spokes, I wouldn't touch it without special tools and training.
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Old 10-04-2010, 01:36 PM   #17338
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pierce
side to side is fairly easy on traditionally spoked wheels. up and down less so, and if the rim has a bent flange, pretty much forget it. $25 is not unreasonable, its about a half hour of bench time to get a wheel not only straight but evenly tensioned so it will stay straight.

if the wheel has fewer than 32 spokes and/or those aerodynamic flattened spokes, I wouldn't touch it without special tools and training.
The wheel doesn't look like it has any flat spots and in the Up/down it runs true. So the throw I see is just weight balance issue with the rim perhaps. The spindles are Shimano and the rims are Ayana, I believe.
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Old 10-04-2010, 03:38 PM   #17339
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Originally Posted by Jeffy
The wheel doesn't look like it has any flat spots and in the Up/down it runs true. So the throw I see is just weight balance issue with the rim perhaps. The spindles are Shimano and the rims are Ayana, I believe.
if by throw, you mean the wheel is hopping up and down, thats often because the tire bead isn't seated just so.

i usually put about 15-20 psi in the freshly mounted tire, then spin it around and carefully eyeball the bead-rim interface. if it looks like part of the tire isn't seated all the way, i'll let it down to about 5psi (barely enough to hold the tire shape) and 'pull' on the tire to get the bead into the right place. then pump 15-20psi and inspect again. once its good all the way around, THEN I pump it up to whatever operating pressure.
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Old 10-04-2010, 05:45 PM   #17340
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pierce
if by throw, you mean the wheel is hopping up and down, thats often because the tire bead isn't seated just so.

i usually put about 15-20 psi in the freshly mounted tire, then spin it around and carefully eyeball the bead-rim interface. if it looks like part of the tire isn't seated all the way, i'll let it down to about 5psi (barely enough to hold the tire shape) and 'pull' on the tire to get the bead into the right place. then pump 15-20psi and inspect again. once its good all the way around, THEN I pump it up to whatever operating pressure.
It's a weight issue with the wheel. Didn't have a tire nor tube on the wheel, spinning it to see how bad it was. I'm sure the slime in my tires is dynamically balancing the wheel though. The tires are fine though.

Took the bike out again today just up and down the street a bit. Adjusted the levers so I don't have to rotate my wrist as much. Feels a lot better. Also raised the bars a little too. Makes a big difference. I guess I was shorter back then. Haven't decided where I want my seat though. I'm usually standing or hanging off the back so the only time I'm sitting is if I'm tired or just cruising. Everyone seem to be +6ft as I always see their seats way up there.

I'm a bit smoother on the bike, still getting used to it. It's coming back though.
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