Bicycle thread

[Gummee!]

...and to further monopolize the thread:

Scheduled myself a day off today. Good thing too cause its effing cold and effing windy!

Tomorrow's supposed to be warmer and not as windy

M

[elchulopadre]

Originally Posted by Gummee!

Me? keep the old stuff and get a 'training' bike to go with the fancy one.

For triathlons, compact is about the opposite of what you want. Not that I've raced em! I've seen/heard that they're mostly flat and you're mostly turning big gears. Compact gets you smaller gears to get you up hills better.

AFA power meter vs Di2? Get the power meter. Helps you train better. Di2 is nifty, but its basically the same stuff you have now: it moves the gears back and forth. I'm assuming you have aero wheels... If you don't, then get them first. Makes more sense for doing what you're doing. If you have the $$ get a disc as well as a deep section wheel.

AFA which speed concept bike: Stick with the Shimano equipped bikes if you want yer current stuff to be compatible 'just in case.' If you don't care about that, I like the one with Force on it.


HTH

M

Got a CX bike set up as a roadie already - it's a great trainer to go along with the slippery tri bike. Or did you mean find a 'beater' frame to put the old stuff on?

My reasoning for the compact crank is that I currently have a regular 53/39 (my cassette is 11-25), and I find I never spin out in the big ring/small cog, or even a few cogs in from that. That, and I wind up hunting for the right gear a lot - and cross-chaining until I catch myself - because the rings are petty far apart. I think a compact would fix most of those woes - plus I'm a spinner, so I don't think I'd lose top speed (my own, not the bike's theoretical max).

What are your thoughts on power meters? Most of the systems I've been looking at (SRM, Powertap, Quarq) all use ant+, but I'm already decked out with the Polar WIND stuff. Worth the switch?

[Gummee!]

Originally Posted by elchulopadre

Got a CX bike set up as a roadie already - it's a great trainer to go along with the slippery tri bike. Or did you mean find a 'beater' frame to put the old stuff on?

My reasoning for the compact crank is that I currently have a regular 53/39 (my cassette is 11-25), and I find I never spin out in the big ring/small cog, or even a few cogs in from that. That, and I wind up hunting for the right gear a lot - and cross-chaining until I catch myself - because the rings are petty far apart. I think a compact would fix most of those woes - plus I'm a spinner, so I don't think I'd lose top speed (my own, not the bike's theoretical max).

What are your thoughts on power meters? Most of the systems I've been looking at (SRM, Powertap, Quarq) all use ant+, but I'm already decked out with the Polar WIND stuff. Worth the switch?

If you get a similar crankset to what you have now, you can swap em in and out as needed with very few issues. Its basically 2 bolts and a cover... You can also get up to 54t 110mm BCD chainrings, so you can always go back to big rings if needed. So yeah, mebbe a compact's not a bad idea.

AFA power meters: I haven't researched em that closely. Till I started working for a shop again, they were well out of my price range. Still are, but they're not nearly as bad with discounts!

M

[elchulopadre]

Originally Posted by Gummee!

If you get a similar crankset to what you have now, you can swap em in and out as needed with very few issues. Its basically 2 bolts and a cover... You can also get up to 54t 110mm BCD chainrings, so you can always go back to big rings if needed. So yeah, mebbe a compact's not a bad idea.

AFA power meters: I haven't researched em that closely. Till I started working for a shop again, they were well out of my price range. Still are, but they're not nearly as bad with discounts!

M

Hmmm... I can do a Project One with a compact crank - I called, and I still get the crash replacement discount. Might take a while to arrive, but I can give my CX bike a thrashing in the meantime.

Now I need to pick a Project One color scheme.

[brewer90]

I decided to try the big wheels. I thought I'd give the new XO 2x10 setup a shot too. I should have her rolling by next week.

[Gaston Gagne]

Three hours and 17 minutes to do 15 miles and change.

[ducnut]

Originally Posted by elchulopadre

Insurance company's paying for a replacement bike/frame/helmet!

Sooooo.... what should I get?

Must be a tri bike (bias is for towards Trek, since I get 20% off a replacement). Sort of makes the Speed Concept series a no-brainer, but the question is which?

Also, does it make sense to get a frameset and transfer as many of the bits as possible? Or avoid the hassle/delay of building it up and getting a whole new bike? I have a 105 crank, FD and brakes; Dura-Ace bar-end shifters/RD. And I'm tempted to try a compact crank, which I'd have to buy separately one way or another.

And, given the budget for only one of the following: aero wheels? power meter? Di2?

I used to TT every Wed. I'll give my thoughts, based on my findings.

I'd get a complete bike, as framesets are just stupidly priced. You can usually get a complete bike for around $600-$800 more than a frameset. Even if you preferred your existing components, having an extra set never hurts.

In Trek's lineup, I really like the Speed Concept 7.0. The problem with integrated stems, like the Speed 9.0, is the frameset must fit you perfectly. There's very little adjustment available. If your body proportions don't fit the frame, you're screwed. I like the "old school" threadless stems, as you can change whatever dimension you need to. Furthermore, an integrated frame rides a lot more aggressive. It sounds like you're pretty fit, but, if you don't train on that bike regularly, you'll end up being slower because your muscles haven't been trained to ride in such an aggressive position. I was a solid 2 minutes slower in 20K, by flipping my stem downward. I really felt it in my hamstrings. And let's face it, you're looking at an Ironman and not a TT. So, you need to be comfortable, over a long distance and multiple disciplines, and not looking at the bike so much for time. There are a ton of good articles here. Be sure to read the 52cm and 58cm comparisons. Also, read all the articles with a fair bit of skepticism, as it's one person's ideals.

I like the idea of a compact crankset, as I have yet to meet a mere mortal who can push a 53/12 combo. Using a compact will allow you to run something like a 12/23 cassette for a closer ratio spread. If you have a cyclocross crankset (46/36) to try, that'd be an interesting experiment, too. I doubt you could push a 46/12 combo, but, it'd allow you to use cogs further down the cassette in the big ring and allow you to go to lower gearing without dropping down onto the small ring. It depends on the terrain you ride.

Also on gearing, the Speed Concept 7.0 has a SRAM Apex mid-cage RD. That'll allow as big as a 36T cog on the rear. Lower gearing will allow for more varied training rides without being confined to flatland. Toward the end of my owning a TT bike, I switched it over to a mid-cage. I used the bike as an everyday ride and this allowed me to run gearing to ride anywhere.

On extras:
Aero wheels make the most sense. They'll definitely save time, in/over any condition/terrain. Go clinchers. They require a lot less effort to own and use. Gluing tubulars takes time and technique. Furthermore, tubulars are way more expensive. I'd shop eBay. Most wheelsets live their lives in wheel bags. You don't need the latest Zipp Firecrests. There are a ton of brands out there. SRAM owns Zipp. SRAM's aerowheels are a budget version of the latest-greates Zipps. You can pickup a new set around $1200. In Zipp, that'll get you a rear wheel. When shopping eBay, be sure you know what year the wheels were manufactured in, as they all go through continual updates. There's some really old stuff out there that has some weird nuances about them. Wheels can be used anytime and anywhere. I used my Zipp 606 set as an everyday wheelset. I've hit many holes with them and rode 'em down many dirtroads. They're as straight as the day I bought them.

Di2 is a waste, IMHO. Yeah it's quick and you can shift under power. But, for that kind of money and complexity I don't see the greatness. I'll stick to analog. And, SRAM at that.

Power meters are over-the-top, IMHO. If you religiously train with a regimented program, I can see having one. The fastest TT guys have them and ride according to their output and HR. That's all great, if you're at the absolute highest level. But, I don't see where the huge dollar investment is going to make all that much difference, unless everything else is of the highest level (ie. your fitness, diet, etc). Then it's deciding which way to go. They all have their specific component requirements. For versatility and accuracy, a crankset is the way to go. Again, are you going to realize the maximum benefit?

As mentioned, an aero helmet is very beneficial. There are two types; the long curved tail and the stubby cone-like tail. If you're disciplined and are able to always keep your head up, so that the tail lays on your back, the long version is the way. Otherwise, go with the short one, as it's less detrimental to your aero program when you're looking down during your suffer-fest.

My GF is into triathlon and my LBS is highly tri/TT-specific. If there's anything I can help with, let me know. I'll try to help the best I can.

[elchulopadre]

Originally Posted by ducnut

I used to TT every Wed. I'll give my thoughts, based on my findings.

Thanks!!!

I found some '09 Reynolds Strikes on closeout - 66mm depth, and if I expect windy conditions I can use my Attack front (32mm).

I agree that the latest crop of 'superbikes' with fancy front ends are great if you happen to fit them. What's nice about the Speed Concept 9 series is that there are several stems to choose from. I took measurements off my Trek, and it seems I'd fit just about perfectly on an XL frame with the 80 reach/75rise stem, per the chart here.

My fit coordinates (taken pretty roughly):

Crank Length: 175 mm

Pad to ground: 980 mm
BB to ground: 255 mm
Arm Pad Stack: 725 mm

Back to center of pad: 1155
Back to bb: 710
Arm Pad Reach: 445 mm

Extension to center of pad: 310
Extension Reach: 745 mm

Back to front of base bar 1400
Basebar Reach: 690 mm

Base bar to ground: 910
Basebar Stack: 655 mm

Saddle Height: 860 mm

Saddle to back: 680 mm
Saddle setback: -30 mm

I've found this position to be pretty comfortable - I can hold it for long periods of time. I still come out of it every now and then, but hey - my training rides these days are 3 hours non-stop, and at these lengths of time even my couch gets uncomfortable.

Actually, my cx bike has a 46/38, with a 12-27 cassette. Might be worth experimenting with. But in any case, if I get the option I'm going compact.

My helmet is a Lazer Tardiz. It's been pretty comfy - no real reason to switch. It apparently is one of the better out-of-position helmets, but when I'm properly tucked in I feel the airflow hitting my back. Pretty cool!

Thanks for your input! Much appreciated!

[ducnut]

Originally Posted by elchulopadre

I found some '09 Reynolds Strikes on closeout

Closeout is how I bought my Zipps. The LBS had the closeout price on them and ran an additional sale for 3 days on everything in the store. Discount on top of discount. Saweeeet!

Originally Posted by elchulopadre

I agree that the latest crop of 'superbikes' with fancy front ends are great if you happen to fit them. What's nice about the Speed Concept 9 series is that there are several stems to choose from. I took measurements off my Trek, and it seems I'd fit just about perfectly on an XL frame with the 80 reach/75rise stem, per the chart here.

The LBS has been having some issues, even with multiple stem options, on some of these bikes. For sure, I can't ride those stack heights. But, seems you've got the layout figured.

Originally Posted by elchulopadre

I've found this position to be pretty comfortable - I can hold it for long periods of time. I still come out of it every now and then, but hey - my training rides these days are 3 hours non-stop, and at these lengths of time even my couch gets uncomfortable.

The longest on my TT bike was 80 miles, but, that was with plenty of sitting up. I have great respect for the IM competitors doing 112, in between swim and run. A husband/wife duo from the TT nights just did the Arizona IM. Phew! Mad props.

Originally Posted by elchulopadre

Actually, my cx bike has a 46/38, with a 12-27 cassette.

Yeah, I mis-typed. I meant 38T small ring.

Her 'cross is setup that way. I actually like it.

[ducnut]

Anybody following Ben Bostrom? I was reading where he finished 3rd (due to mechanical) in the Single Speed World Championship. Holy crap!

http://www.cyclenews.com/articles/road-racing/2010/10/26/ben-bostrom-talks-beer-singlespeed-tattoos

Yes, this was his kit. F*cking badass!

[elchulopadre]

Originally Posted by ducnut

The LBS has been having some issues, even with multiple stem options, on some of these bikes. For sure, I can't ride those stack heights. But, seems you've got the layout figured.

Yup - I'm definitely one of the big'uns. Here's what I look like in the position (from Cancun 70.3 in '09):


(and yes - those s-bend extensions are evil. Thought they'd get better over time, but no)

Yeah, I mis-typed. I meant 38T small ring.

Her 'cross is setup that way. I actually like it.

I rode my CX bike around Lake Tahoe last summer. The gearing was perfect - excellent cruising speed on the flats, plenty of cogs to choose from for getting my ass up the hills. I could spin it out on the downhills, but who cares?

That Bostrom get-up is hilarious!

[Gummee!]

Back a few years ago when I was in better shape, not only was I pushing a 53x12, I was looking for more!

Now? Not as much but I'm working on it again.

For all-round riding, a compact is a great thing. For racing? I'll stick to the 'regular' chainrings. As a note: bigger combos are actually *slightly* more efficient than smaller. ie: a 53x21 is slightly more efficient than the 50x19 that feels about the same. When I mean slightly, I do mean *slightly.* Hence the 15t pulleys on this year's TdF bikes.

If anyone's interested, I have 9sp cassettes that I could use $$ for. D/A 12-25t is here at the shop. There's a few more at home that're Ultegra. Also have a D/A 'long' cage rear derailleur and D/A 9sp STI. I haven't figgered out pricing for the general public yet, so if ya want em, make me a decent offer.

M

[ducnut]

Originally Posted by elchulopadre

(and yes - those s-bend extensions are evil. Thought they'd get better over time, but no)

Some S-bends feel better than others. I do like the Felts. However, I've always run the ski bends for comfort, as I had other worse deficiencies than the aero qualities of my extensions.

Originally Posted by Gummee!

As a note: bigger combos are actually *slightly* more efficient than smaller. ie: a 53x21 is slightly more efficient than the 50x19 that feels about the same. When I mean slightly, I do mean *slightly.* Hence the 15t pulleys on this year's TdF bikes.

Yeah, the last couple years have seen the use of custom cages and pulley setups being turned by a 55T big ring. I don't remember who it was (Lance in '09?) that had the solid cage where you couldn't even see the pulleys. It was as if they were hiding something.....which they were.

[brewer90]

Originally Posted by ducnut

Anybody following Ben Bostrom? I was reading where he finished 3rd (due to mechanical) in the Single Speed World Championship. Holy crap!

Cool story. I knew he was good based on his initial 24 hours of Moab ride but I didn't realize he was that good.

[Chisenhallw]

Speaking of SRAM, I'm reworking my old Medici in time for tri/TT season. I'd love to outfit it with a full-on snappy new SRAM drivetrain, but the price of those shifters will cost me my girlfriend. Does anybody know of any good deals for SRAM shifters, or have used ones they'd sell? Cheers!