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Old 03-07-2011, 06:39 AM   #19231
Gummee!
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Watching a torrent of Kuurne-Brussels-Kuurne on the computer. Dutch is hard m'kay.

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Old 03-07-2011, 08:53 AM   #19232
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BmoreBandit View Post
thanks for the replies, i think im going to list the bike and see how it goes.
the hardest thing is going to be- i just like looking at it! it looks great in the house.
yeah, no need to feel like a 'frog on a walnut'

on a 29er only downside i can think of is, i dont know how much fun, 'all mountain' capability do they have. so far my riding has been
a fair mix of AM and XC, but the guys i have been riding lately are pushing more AM.
For those truly riding AM, 26ers seem to be more popular because of their "flickability" and the fact that you can't get many (if any) 29ers in 5-6 inch full suspension frames. Probably soon, though.

Ryan
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Old 03-07-2011, 11:34 AM   #19233
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I'll admit it. I had to look up the term "All Mountain". We used to call them full suspension mtbs. What's the big difference between AM and XC besides suspension travel?
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Old 03-07-2011, 11:46 AM   #19234
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Originally Posted by fullmonte View Post
I'll admit it. I had to look up the term "All Mountain". We used to call them full suspension mtbs. What's the big difference between AM and XC besides suspension travel?
This is a hotly debated/flamed topic on MTBR. Generally, AM riding is going to be more aggressive (more tech terrrain, larger drops/jumps, etc) than XC. XC bikes are generally made light and for going fast. AM is somewhere in between XC and downhill. Slack head tube angles, big suspension, but bikes that can still pedal uphill.

While you can ride any bike on any terrain (I guess), AM bikes assume that you want to ride uphill, but that you may be more focused on control on the downhill run. And that you will be abusing your bike more than the typical XC rider (heavier tubing, etc).

To add to the confusion, there is also a new category of bikes called "Trail" which fit in somewhere between AM and XC. And then there is freeride, dirt jump, and a whole host of other, ride-type specific mountain bikes.

Example: Giant's Anthem (4 inches FS) is considered an XC bike; Giant Trance X (5 inches) is considered a trail bike (which I have); and the Giant Reign (6 inches) is considered an AM bike. Their bigger suspension bikes then move into the categories of freeride (think British Columbia wooden bridges 20 feet in the air) and downhill

Bottom line: It's probably all marketing hype created to sell us stuff, but it is sometimes useful in describing the gear and the terrain that the bike was designed for.

EDIT: Just read your post again. So, besides suspension travel, there is differences in frame geometry, the ruggedness/weight of frame/components, and probably some other minor stuff. I think the major factors that distinguish mountain bikes these days are suspension travel and geometry.

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rmi03 screwed with this post 03-07-2011 at 01:37 PM
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Old 03-07-2011, 01:33 PM   #19235
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rmi03 View Post
For those truly riding AM, 26ers seem to be more popular because of their "flickability" and the fact that you can't get many (if any) 29ers in 5-6 inch full suspension frames. Probably soon, though.

Ryan
Here you go: http://www.pinkbike.com/news/banshee...view-2011.html

Very cool looking bike.

Yeah, you are right about the "flickability" thing. I love my 29er but it is a little long...... I have been riding my 26ers more and more.
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Old 03-07-2011, 01:51 PM   #19236
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Can anyone describe to me the process of removing a bottom bracket freewheel [question mark] My trials bike is going to need one swapped out as soon as the new one gets here. I would like to think the failure was from my excessive manlyness, but more than likely, it was a manufacturing error.
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Old 03-07-2011, 01:55 PM   #19237
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Originally Posted by Bendejo View Post
Can anyone describe to me the process of removing a bottom bracket freewheel [question mark] My trials bike is going to need one swapped out as soon as the new one gets here. I would like to think the failure was from my excessive manlyness, but more than likely, it was a manufacturing error.
Yeah. Buy wrench. Turn wrench.

Easy!

(or go take a gander at Park Tools' site. They have tutorials for about everything.)

Hiya Ben. Wondering when you'd be by.

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Old 03-07-2011, 03:10 PM   #19238
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I watched some of the Paris - Nice racing yesterday. Got distracted by Supercross, then backpacking gear.... Never saw the ending.

So much for my attention span.

Started thinking about re-doing the decals on the Pinarello even though I don't the exact correct decals.

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Old 03-07-2011, 03:58 PM   #19239
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bendejo View Post
Can anyone describe to me the process of removing a bottom bracket freewheel [question mark] My trials bike is going to need one swapped out as soon as the new one gets here. I would like to think the failure was from my excessive manlyness, but more than likely, it was a manufacturing error.
The only two things that have worked for me was taking the FW apart and using a pipe wrench.

OR: using an impact wrench. This worked quite well but needed full power.

For those wonder why you just can't "use a wrench": These are front freewheel setups that are REALLY cranked down due to the gearing of a trials bike and the power you can put into them for certain moves.
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Old 03-07-2011, 04:10 PM   #19240
Ricardo Kuhn
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mud View Post

OR: using an impact wrench. This worked quite well but needed full power.
I have work on Bicycles for more than 25 years (as a Pro and just for fun) and I Never, Ever found the need to use a Impact wrench or any other kind of power tools on them for that matter (well drilling holes, Yes, but that is about it)

On the Other hand "Persuasion" methods (leverage bars) are welcome, but first make sure you are spinning the right way first, since sometimes they are lefts hands treads (Bottom Brackets for example).
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Old 03-07-2011, 04:46 PM   #19241
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ricardo Kuhn View Post
I have work on Bicycles for more than 25 years (as a Pro and just for fun) and I Never, Ever found the need to use a Impact wrench or any other kind of power tools on them for that matter (well drilling holes, Yes, but that is about it)

On the Other hand "Persuasion" methods (leverage bars) are welcome, but first make sure you are spinning the right way first, since sometimes they are lefts hands treads (Bottom Brackets for example).
What Ricky said. I've been wrenching as long as he has.

In other news:I'm working on re-doing an older Trek 3500 that I inherited yesterday. Fixing it up for Mom. If she rides it and enjoys it, I'll upgrade her to the Salsa Moto Ace we have hanging in the shop. If not, I'm not out any $$. Its been since Germany since she's ridden a bicycle. I'm not sure what to expect.

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Old 03-07-2011, 04:51 PM   #19242
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ricardo Kuhn View Post
I have work on Bicycles for more than 25 years (as a Pro and just for fun) and I Never, Ever found the need to use a Impact wrench or any other kind of power tools on them for that matter (well drilling holes, Yes, but that is about it)

On the Other hand "Persuasion" methods (leverage bars) are welcome, but first make sure you are spinning the right way first, since sometimes they are lefts hands treads (Bottom Brackets for example).
Fair enough.... The problem is taking a FW off of a crank arm is you don't have any leverage unless you want to stick it in a vice. I don't have that option.

Have you ever taken a FW off of a trials bike crank? Either of you two?

To get a FW off of a wheel of my budies Trials bike that was not a front freewheel bike we used a 4 ft. breaker bar. While one held the wheel the other STOOD on the bar. It barely got it off.
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Old 03-07-2011, 05:05 PM   #19243
Ricardo Kuhn
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Originally Posted by mud View Post
Fair enough.... The problem is taking a FW off of a crank arm is you don't have any leverage unless you want to stick it in a vice. I don't have that option.

Have you ever taken a FW off of a trials bike crank? Either of you two?
Sure I use to work at a shop in san francisco with a pretty serious core group of Urban/Trials rides and I have my Far share of freewheels/cranks story's, But nothing a Big strong vise with soft clamps (bronze plus a rag) mounted on a strong table will not cure.


For sure they are difficult but not impossible, Actually a cool trick I developed when possible (for the Extractors with a Holes on the top, not the "Ratchet" types) was to "Connect" the extractor to the crank with a big bolt and a "Wing Nut" so you can apply full force with out the fear of the extractor getting disconnected and flying away with you "on top of it"

Simple, stupid trick, but oh man it work so well
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Old 03-07-2011, 05:12 PM   #19244
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ricardo Kuhn View Post
Sure I use to work at a shop in san francisco with a pretty serious core group of Urban/Trials rides and I have my Far share of freewheels/cranks story's, But nothing a Big strong vise with soft clamps (bronze plus a rag) mounted on a strong table will not cure.


For sure they are difficult but not impossible, Actually a cool trick I developed when possible (for the Extractors with a Holes on the top, not the "Ratchet" types) was to "Connect" the extractor to the crank with a big bolt and a "Wing Nut" so you can apply full force with out the fear of the extractor getting disconnected and flying away with you "on top of it"

Simple, stupid trick, but oh man it work so well
I wish I had a vice on a table bolted to the floor...... Some day.

The bolt idea works wonders. Especially for the Suntour type FW's....
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Old 03-07-2011, 05:37 PM   #19245
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I wish I had a vice on a table bolted to the floor...... Some day.
Oh Dude with out the Vise is almost Impossible, No wonder you need to resource to such "Violent" methods, Try to get one and at least clamp it to a piece of wood and then roll your car (even your bike) over one corner so it does not move
Quote:

The bolt idea works wonders. Especially for the Suntour type FW's....
Well get the Bolt, make it Tight and go to ToWn with it
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