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Old 05-26-2011, 06:07 PM   #20551
mud
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Originally Posted by k7 View Post
Look on Sheldon's page here.
Such a great website (and person). Sheldon is very missed.
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Old 05-26-2011, 06:47 PM   #20552
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Originally Posted by Turbocelica View Post
I come accross this late '80's Schwinn with 105 components. The photo of the rear hub has something I've never seen before. It's on the side opposite of the freewheel or freehub. It almost looks like a bolt together hub?? Looks like a bunch of SHCS's?? Any ideas??
That is crazy, I'd like to see more pictures. I agree about some type of wide spacing, such as a tandem.
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Old 05-26-2011, 06:51 PM   #20553
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Originally Posted by Oznerol View Post
Just because your drivetrain is fixed doesn't mean you can't run brakes as well. I've always had a front brake on the fixed gears I've owned. If you need to stop hard and you don't have a front brake, you're probably screwed regardless of how well put-together your drivetrain is.
Well, yes and no, all I am saying it that people were telling this person that it is ok and not mentioning that it is not 100% safe and it is not truly fixed. It could unscrew and that brakes should be run on the bike as a backup. By running a setup like this you are running around with a working front brake and a rear brake that is only good under moderate braking at best.
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Old 05-26-2011, 07:40 PM   #20554
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Originally Posted by mud View Post
Looks like a road hub converted to tandem spacing.... But, why?
But tandems don't have wide-spaced flanges! Usually it's a 140 or 145mm overlocknut width, flanges not much different than single hubs.

Whole lotta WHY on this one.
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Old 05-26-2011, 07:48 PM   #20555
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Originally Posted by melville View Post
But tandems don't have wide-spaced flanges! Usually it's a 140 or 145mm overlocknut width, flanges not much different than single hubs.

Whole lotta WHY on this one.
I agree (except for Phil Wood) Very weird, I would like to see the bike.....
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Old 05-26-2011, 08:16 PM   #20556
mgorman
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Originally Posted by melville View Post
But tandems don't have wide-spaced flanges! Usually it's a 140 or 145mm overlocknut width, flanges not much different than single hubs.

Whole lotta WHY on this one.

There are limited hubs out there for tandems. If you just widen the axle, you'd think it would put more stress on the axle at the bearing. Move the bearing outwards and you take some of the flexing stress out of the axle and convert it to shear strength at the lock nuts. That is, if the bearing was moved outside with the flange. The wider rear ends were intended to take the dish out of a rear wheel and allow even spoke tensioning on both sides of the wheel. If you look at a regular road wheel, the drive side spokes not only intersect the hub at a more right angle, also require more tension to keep the rim centered compared to the non-drive side.

In theory, that adapter makes sense, however, moving the flange that far seems like an overkill and would still give an uneven spoke tension. Unless the end result was to haul more weigh by getting the bearing closer to the frame. Shimano hubs are one of the few where the freehub is actually bolted to the hub itself, where others have 2 bearings in the hub and the freehub has 2 sets.

Our Rolf tandem wheels come apart with no tools, just your fingers
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Old 05-27-2011, 06:01 AM   #20557
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Originally Posted by TheYeti View Post
I was looking on Excel Sports website at the powermeters and I really don't have any idea what I'm looking at. Some are in rear hub, and some are in the crankset. I do see they are pretty damn spendy.though. I thought it would be valuable information.The Arc Trainer at the gym has got power (watt) measurements but really that doesn't transfer to the bike ( Idon'tknow what I'm doing on the bike.)
Guy I ride with has a Power Tap. Upside is that its basically invisible ie: its a hub and if you ride more'n one bike, its portable. Problem is... if you wanna measure wattage racing, you hafta have a race wheel and a training wheel both built with their ($$) hub.

The cranks are more accurate (usually) and a hair more expensive but aren't really moveable from bike=bike.

I'm waiting for Look and others to come out with power pedals. I'm hoping that Look's gonna use ANT+ but I doubt it. I think they're (Look) gonna use the Polar protocol.

I'm still training the old-fashioned way: when its time to go hard, go VERY hard. When its not time to go hard, don't. FWI've been reading perceived exertion is fairly accurate AFA 'how hard yer working.' Problem comes in when yer tired, etc and despite having gas in yer legs, they feel like poo. That was me Mon. You shoulda heard the whining.

Oh, last nite's UW hockey there were 7 of us. 3 national-caliber players and 4 B-level players. I played like poo for the first 30-40min of the hour. After I got into the swing of things again, I started playing better and we started scoring. ...then I got kicked in the upper left thigh. You know how it goes when you're nice and relaxed floating in the water and someone's heel comes and smashes you in the thigh? Hurts more cause you were relaxed.

So now I'm hobbling about. Hopefully a ride this afternoon will clear that up.

M
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Old 05-27-2011, 06:04 AM   #20558
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Originally Posted by Ridge View Post
That would be the best $85 you will ever spend in your cycling career. Getting properly fit to your bike is worth it's weight in gold.
Amen brother. Preach it!

As a n00b tho, the fit is going to change over time, so its not the 'be all end all' of fitting. Hell, 20 years on and I'm still fiddling with my stuff. Up a mm here, down a mm there. Forward a titch. Back that and some more. etc.

M
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Old 05-27-2011, 08:27 AM   #20559
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My legs are tired. Took a good 45min for em to feel halfway decent. Never did have a lot of oomph.

Total of 1:33 easy to zone 2. Nothing hard.

Its a good thing I wasn't out with anyone today.

M
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Old 05-27-2011, 08:28 AM   #20560
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheYeti View Post
But you can never have enough spare parts.He who dies with the most spare parts wins!...Right
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Old 05-27-2011, 08:32 AM   #20561
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When I picked up the Roubaix, I just tossed it in the trunk and drove home.

When I got home I [pulled it out, and adjusted it to what I felt was right.

I tweaked a bit after some piddling around the neighborhood.

When I went back for my free fit they only moved the seat up about 1mm. Then I swapped seats and changed the seat height again.
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Old 05-27-2011, 08:34 AM   #20562
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Lyin' Bastard!
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Old 05-27-2011, 08:37 AM   #20563
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Gummee! Wins!
No way man. I've been selling off stuff.

I've got a buyer for my 9sp D/A stuff. Hopefully that'll get me enough to get some Rival stuff.

M
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Old 05-27-2011, 08:38 AM   #20564
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Originally Posted by Gummee! View Post
No way man. I've been selling off stuff.

I've got a buyer for my 9sp D/A stuff. Hopefully that'll get me enough to get some Rival stuff.

M

Just curious, why Rival over Apex? I would think in your neck o' the woods the Apex would be a better fit for gear ratios.
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Old 05-27-2011, 08:42 AM   #20565
Gummee!
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Just curious, why Rival over Apex? I would think in your neck o' the woods the Apex would be a better fit for gear ratios.
Useta be I refused to ride anything bigger'n a 24t cog.

Now that I'm old, I'll up that to 25/26t. There's really nothing *that* steep out here. Nor that long. I rode to Skyline drive with a 39/23 combo and did all right. Yeah, I'd've liked to have spun more, but oh well.

I'm still of the opinion you only get strong enough to push your smallest gear.

M
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