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Old 01-12-2012, 06:09 PM   #22606
ImaPoser
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mud View Post
So what is the general consensus on these?
For those of us that can't (don't want to) get to a spin class, they don't look half bad.
I looked in to them a few weeks ago when I accidentally stumbled in to this thread and I had the urge to get the bike out and start riding again. I spent the better part of a day surfing the web reading reviews. It's about a 10-1 ratio of hate vs acceptable. Very comparable to your average exercise bike at a premium price. I decided to just keep riding the older decent quality stationary bike I have, and watch craigslist for a great gym quality one in the spring(no way to find a good deal on one at this time of the year).

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Originally Posted by Gummee! View Post
I think you're better off with a computrainer or other device that uses your own bike vs. a separate 'spin bike.'
The biggest reason is... ...its your bike. You got used to the way it feels, gearing, etc.
I'm watching for a deal on one of these on craigslist as well, but not sure if I want one. I don't know how comfortable I would be riding my roadbike while stationary. The exercise bike I have now has wide bars, and time trial style bars, which I don't have on my road bike. It also takes up significantly less room than my bike on a trainer would. I guess I need to look around and see if there is a local bike shop who has them I could do a test ride on.
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Old 01-13-2012, 06:52 AM   #22607
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If I/we had an excercise bike already I probably would have told her no. I couldn't justify buying this for myself but knew if bought for her we would both use it. Pricey ? It's all relative. I have an 04 gs I bought brand new, that was pricey. And if I believed half the reviews I read about the GS I wouldn't have bought it either.


I will post my continuing impressions both good and bad . So far I would call it above average.


stage 13 and stage 14 done last night - over an hour in the saddle - I was in my pain cave most of 14.


another nice feature. You can choose - standard double , compact double or triple front and 5 choices of rear cassettes to choose from.

zippy screwed with this post 01-13-2012 at 10:54 AM Reason: additions
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Old 01-13-2012, 10:23 AM   #22608
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Gearing Question

I've signed up (for the 3rd time) again for the 3 State 3 Mountain Challenge century in May. The last climb is up a mountain with grades of 18-20%. The Roubaix currently has 11-28 which is adequate for the other 364 days of the year. However, I'm sure this won't cut it for Burkhalter Gap road, which made me cry uncle and walk (it gets progressively steeper)the last time I tried to climb it. The crank is a SRAM compact double with 50-34 gearing. I'm looking at buying a 11-32 or 11-36 SRAM cassette. Thoughts on which one I should buy?
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Old 01-13-2012, 10:35 AM   #22609
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Originally Posted by fullmonte View Post
Thoughts on which one I should buy?
Real men aren't afraid of triples.

Or showing up with a mountain bike at a road race.

But I'd say split the difference and get an 11-34 if you're unsure. You do know you'll probably need a new rear derailer too, right?
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Old 01-13-2012, 11:16 AM   #22610
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Real men aren't afraid of triples.

Or showing up with a mountain bike at a road race.

But I'd say split the difference and get an 11-34 if you're unsure. You do know you'll probably need a new rear derailer too, right?
Does wearing a mtb helmet count? I bake a mean quiche and don't shave my legs. 3 State is not a race, just a century ride. The goal is to finish without participating in the walk of shame up the steepest section of Burkhalter Gap road. A cassette is cheaper than a crankset and will (hopefully)achieve what I need. SRAM doesn't make a 11-34, so its either 32 or 36 for the climbing gear.

edit: I don't think I'll need a new derailler. The guy I bought the bike from said it originally had a 11-32 cassette on it before he swapped it. Howabout for a 36?
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Old 01-13-2012, 11:27 AM   #22611
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Originally Posted by fullmonte View Post

edit: I don't think I'll need a new derailler. The guy I bought the bike from said it originally had a 11-32 cassette on it before he swapped it. Howabout for a 36?
What derailer is it? Not sure about SRAM, but Shimano usually documents what size cassettes a derailer can handle.
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Old 01-13-2012, 11:51 AM   #22612
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Awesome!
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Originally Posted by scorpion View Post
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Old 01-13-2012, 11:55 AM   #22613
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My Roubaix is a triple, (don't shave my legs either), and I wear a mtb helmet. I do take the visor off sometimes. I can cook too. The triple helps me limp my lumpy white butt up the big hills here. I love the thing. I basically never get out of the middle ring on the flats.
I've been in the big ring twice, both times down big, long, wide descents spun it out and tucked. Fun.
The polar opposite of that gear is the face I climb ti get to the top of my hill. Some sort of dinner plate sized cog out back and a watch dial ring up front.
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Old 01-13-2012, 12:07 PM   #22614
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I like the trainers that hook to my rear wheel and lock the forks. I've used these and rollers and exercise bikes at gyms and one my wife got me at a garage sale, (I wore it out and sent it away).
I hate rollers. My cheap ones that had plain bearings had a lot of resistance so it was a real workout to do an houron them in the basement, back when I had a basement.
I gave those away after watching TV, and "leaning" a little too much with a roadrace video. When you come off rollers and hit the ground your wheels are spinning real good if your in full huff mode. You do stop soon, right about where the front wheel hits the day bed and collapses the frame. At least I had the bed mattress to land on after I tucked into the wall. No helmet...
The stand I used was also cheap, (a trend perhaps?) I'd prop the front up for climbing once a week. That worked pretty good on an old steel frame. I wouldn't do that with my plastic frame.

I gave that stand away too.

Now, I am getting back into running at night during the week and ride the weekends. When the sun returns to earth I'll get back to riding after work, if the overtime backs down from stun a bit. I did about 9 miles this week on the hills, working out routes and directions and gear. Another couple of weeks I'll switch to barefoot gear and see how that goes. It is helping the weight loss and I'm not feeling ANY joint discomfort.

My plan is to tuck myself back to 150#. I've peeled off three pounds since last weekend. Diet and exercise.



Quote:
Originally Posted by zippy View Post
from what I understand you can hook an ipad or the like to it and get said views from google maps.

And I have chosen to ride sans helmet unlike dude in the ad.

it got me from being a lazy arsed couch vegetable to riding everyday , even if it is only 30 minutes or so. If feeling froggy I have rode 2 stages in a day.
But now I am in the mountains and 1 stage is more than enough.


another plus - no cars have heckled me while riding the trainer. My cats...that's another story.
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Old 01-13-2012, 12:22 PM   #22615
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The crank is a SRAM compact double with 50-34 gearing. I'm looking at buying a 11-32 or 11-36 SRAM cassette. Thoughts on which one I should buy?
Quote:
Originally Posted by fullmonte View Post
I don't think I'll need a new derailler. The guy I bought the bike from said it originally had a 11-32 cassette on it before he swapped it. Howabout for a 36?
It sounds like you have the Roubaix Apex. That bike has a mid-cage rear derailluer, which means you can run up to a 36T low gear.

As for the difference between 36T and 32T, the 36 has larger jumps in teeth, at the upper end of the cassette. My GF has a 36T and I run the 32T. I've used her rear wheel and really can't tell much difference. Getting to that low of gear is almost a walking pace and is difficult to tell, for me.

I'd go with a 12T small cog cassette. That'll help keep gear spacing closer together, further up the cassette. You don't need 11T high gear. SRAM offers both.

You will probably have to adjust the "B" screw on the RD. You may even have to replace it with a longer one, if you choose to go with a 36T. My GF's bike readily accepted that cassette, but, mine needed a longer screw. They're both Tricrosses, but, maybe there's just a little variance in production specs. IDK.

The holy grail of low gear would be swap on SRAM 2X10 MTB crank arms. I'm looking to try just that. My LBS has them on the shelf and wasn't 100% sure that they'd work, with my road setup. The next time I have my bike up there, we're going to experiment. I think the 28/42T might be worth trying, as I no longer mash it down the road and don't need a really high gear. A 42/11 combo is about the same as a 50/13 combo. And, a 42/12 is about a 50/14. I rarely run any lower on the cassette than 15T with my 48T 'ring. I'm planning a road trip, next summer, and want to ensure that I have enough low gear.

I left triple cranks behind. We only have one bike left, with a triple. That bike is her trainer.

One last thing. A typical road triple low gear (30/28) produces 28.9 gear inches. A compact through a 36T produces 25.5 gear inches. And, a compact through a 32T produces 28.7 gear inches. You have the potential to have a lower gear than a road triple.
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Old 01-13-2012, 12:58 PM   #22616
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It sounds like you have the Roubaix Apex. That bike has a mid-cage rear derailluer, which means you can run up to a 36T low gear.

As for the difference between 36T and 32T, the 36 has larger jumps in teeth, at the upper end of the cassette. My GF has a 36T and I run the 32T. I've used her rear wheel and really can't tell much difference. Getting to that low of gear is almost a walking pace and is difficult to tell, for me.

I'd go with a 12T small cog cassette. That'll help keep gear spacing closer together, further up the cassette. You don't need 11T high gear. SRAM offers both.

You will probably have to adjust the "B" screw on the RD. You may even have to replace it with a longer one, if you choose to go with a 36T. My GF's bike readily accepted that cassette, but, mine needed a longer screw. They're both Tricrosses, but, maybe there's just a little variance in production specs. IDK.

The holy grail of low gear would be swap on SRAM 2X10 MTB crank arms. I'm looking at try just that. My LBS has them on the shelf and wasn't 100% sure that they'd work, with my road setup. The next time I have my bike up there, we're going to experiment. I think the 28/42T might be worth trying, as I no longer mash it down the road and don't need a really high gear. A 42/11 combo is about the same as a 50/13 combo. And, a 42/12 is about a 50/14. I rarely run any lower on the cassette than 15T with my 48T 'ring. I'm planning a road trip, next summer, and want to ensure that I have enough low gear.

I left triple cranks behind. We only have one bike left, with a triple. That bike is her trainer.

One last thing. A typical triple low gear (30/28) produces 28.9 gear inches. A compact through a 36T produces 25.5 gear inches. And, a compact through a 32T produces 28.7 gear inches. You have the potential to have a lower gear than a triple.
Yes on the Apex and (I think)the derailluer size. Thanks alot for the insight as that's the kind of info I was looking for. Please keep me posted on how the MTB crank arm experiment goes too. Are you coming down for 3 State this year? It really is a great ride with excellent sag support.
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Old 01-13-2012, 01:10 PM   #22617
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Are you coming down for 3 State this year? It really is a great ride with excellent sag support.
Not sure.
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Old 01-13-2012, 01:10 PM   #22618
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Old 01-13-2012, 01:11 PM   #22619
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edit: I don't think I'll need a new derailler. The guy I bought the bike from said it originally had a 11-32 cassette on it before he swapped it. Howabout for a 36?
rear derailleur specs usually say what both the max big cog in back can be, and what the max difference between (front big + back big) and (front small + back small) can be. front derailleurs usually spec just what the big and small rings can be.

Shimano specs tend to be conservative, you can often get away with a couple more teeth on the back if you adjust things carefully, and you can often get away with a bit too much difference if you're careful to avoid small+small (which you really should avoid anyways).

you may need a longer chain if you change rear sprockets to a larger one, depends on how closely the existing chain was cut (and the closer you are to the max difference between big+big and small+small, the more critical the chain length).
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Old 01-14-2012, 05:10 AM   #22620
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Now, I am getting back into running at night during the week and ride the weekends. When the sun returns to earth I'll get back to riding after work, if the overtime backs down from stun a bit. I did about 9 miles this week on the hills, working out routes and directions and gear. Another couple of weeks I'll switch to barefoot gear and see how that goes. It is helping the weight loss and I'm not feeling ANY joint discomfort.

My plan is to tuck myself back to 150#. I've peeled off three pounds since last weekend. Diet and exercise.
Seems every year I hit a point where I feel like doing nothing for months. I haven't run for exercise since high school. I am usually 155 - 165, now I sit at 170#(beer) . Funny, my old supervisor did the warp speed run off the rollers into the wall. I always wanted to try rollers but would probably injure myself , the bicycle and a cat or two. With her gift arriving I have ridden every day for two weeks . My only off days were for trail rides. Hoping when longer days return I will have my legs back for some road rides.
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