Bicycle thread

[Gummee!]

Originally Posted by Aurelius

Only three.

Hell, there's a local rider I know who owns NINETEEN bicycles.

Y'all have never seen Ricky's setup have y'all?

in the 'what makes you smile category:' I was on my way to the ride last nite and realized that the socks I was wearing were the same age as the car I was driving.

Both are darn near old enough to vote!

M

[Aurelius]

Originally Posted by Gummee!

Y'all have never seen Ricky's setup have y'all?

Ricky who?

in the 'what makes you smile category:' I was on my way to the ride last nite and realized that the socks I was wearing were the same age as the car I was driving.

Both are darn near old enough to vote!

M

Hell, I've got socks older than most of the people I ride with. One pair was purchased back in 1981.

[Gummee!]

Originally Posted by Aurelius

Ricky who?

You've been around since 02 and don't know Ricky? You're not pulling my leg are you?!

Hell, I've got socks older than most of the people I ride with. One pair was purchased back in 1981.

I've got wheelsets in the same category.

M

[Blur]

So if I've gotta carbon fiber road bike and find a couple spots where the top-layer of finish has been scratched away (thereby exposing the fiber to the atmosphere), should I cover the spot with something? lacquer? clear fingernail polish? snot?

Don't care how it looks - just didn't know if there's some weird quirk about carbon fiber turning to jello if it's exposed to the atmosphere or something?

[Aurelius]

Originally Posted by Blur

So if I've gotta carbon fiber road bike and find a couple spots where the top-layer of finish has been scratched away (thereby exposing the fiber to the atmosphere), should I cover the spot with something? lacquer? clear fingernail polish? snot?

Don't care how it looks - just didn't know if there's some weird quirk about carbon fiber turning to jello if it's exposed to the atmosphere or something?

I recall being told that exposure to UV light and air is damaging to CF. The CF parts on my '96 Ducati were covered with a thin layer of clearcoat so as to showcase the fiber weave everyone seems to love, but after a few years you could clearly see evidence of sun bleaching. Eventually cracks started to form at the edges, and the parts had to be replaced. I've noticed that on my new bicycles, all the CF is covered in opaque paint, not just clearcoat. I assume this is being done to protect the CF against the damage from UV light. Painting your entire frame in some opaque color might be cost prohibitive, but I would at least put clearcoat back on the exposed portions you mention.

[Aurelius]

Originally Posted by Gummee!

You've been around since 02 and don't know Ricky? You're not pulling my leg are you?!

Are you talking about the guy from Colombia? If so, I do know who he is. I purchased one of his custom made handlebars for my 1150GS years ago.

[Blur]

Thanks, OhReallyUs!

[Mr Head]

The clear coat can have anti-UV stuff added so it doesn't hurt things.

Originally Posted by Aurelius

I recall being told that exposure to UV light and air is damaging to CF. The CF parts on my '96 Ducati were covered with a thin layer of clearcoat so as to showcase the fiber weave everyone seems to love, but after a few years you could clearly see evidence of sun bleaching. Eventually cracks started to form at the edges, and the parts had to be replaced. I've noticed that on my new bicycles, all the CF is covered in opaque paint, not just clearcoat. I assume this is being done to protect the CF against the damage from UV light. Painting your entire frame in some opaque color might be cost prohibitive, but I would at least put clearcoat back on the exposed portions you mention.

[Mr Head]

You want to keep it sealed from moisture.
Banging it enough to crack off the topcoat and expose fibre is a bad thing. The fibers are not happy to be whacked at.I think I'd use some fiberglass repair epoxy. Check the radio control forums/web for stuff. They use a lot of the stuff, or just ask the LBS.

Originally Posted by Blur

So if I've gotta carbon fiber road bike and find a couple spots where the top-layer of finish has been scratched away (thereby exposing the fiber to the atmosphere), should I cover the spot with something? lacquer? clear fingernail polish? snot?

Don't care how it looks - just didn't know if there's some weird quirk about carbon fiber turning to jello if it's exposed to the atmosphere or something?

[Blur]

Originally Posted by Mr Head

You want to keep it sealed from moisture.
Banging it enough to crack off the topcoat and expose fibre is a bad thing. The fibers are not happy to be whacked at.I think I'd use some fiberglass repair epoxy. Check the radio control forums/web for stuff. They use a lot of the stuff, or just ask the LBS.

Will do!

[Jim Moore]

Guys,

Thanks for all the info about crank arm removal, etc. I managed to pull my crank arms last night. I also took the chain rings apart and gave everything a good cleaning. Everything seemed to go back together OK. I also pulled my cassette off the rear wheel and cleaned everything back there. My cassette actually went from black to silver! The bike looks brand-new. Quick question. The cassette lock ring was hand-tight. That's not right, right?

Next up, chain replacement. I've done a few motorcycle chains and I have a motorcycle chain break and rivet tool. Will that work on a bicycle chain?

[Gummee!]

Originally Posted by Jim Moore

The cassette lock ring was hand-tight. That's not right, right?

There should be a torque spec right there on the lockring itself. All it does is hold the cassette on the freehub body, so it doesn't need a ton of torque.

Next up, chain replacement. I've done a few motorcycle chains and I have a motorcycle chain break and rivet tool. Will that work on a bicycle chain?

Doubt it but give it a shot. FWI've seen the pins on a MC chain are much bigger. I know the side plates are farther apart. Same idea applies tho.

Quick question: why do you think you need a chain tool?

M

[Jim Moore]

A couple quick group-ride etiquette questions for you guys. I do a Saturday morning group ride a few times a month. Some stuff happens that kinda makes me wonder "wtf?"

First, we'll be cruising along in a line. The concept seems pretty simple to me. The lead guy has to work pretty hard, but everyone else gets sucked along, as long as we stay in line. Inevitably some douchebag pops out of line and rides about five feet to one side or the other. Sometimes for no reason at all, sometimes so he can drift around and flirt with the females. It kinda screws the guy behind him. It seems kinda unsat to me, but I don't know. Maybe that's just the way things work on a ride like that. What do you guys think?

Next, I feel an obligation to take my turn at the front. I'm not fast, but I work hard and do the best I can when I'm up there. Several people in the group seem to feel no similar obligation. Inevitably they get almost to the front, then allow themselves to be shuffled back when the group stops for a light or a stop sign. I don't get it. It doesn't seem fair to everyone else in that group. There are plenty of slower groups on the ride. Why not just ride with them so they can contribute?

Also, typically we have groups of 20-ish riders. If someone gets a flat the entire group stops and mills about in the road for ten minutes while one or two guys work on the bike. Is that standard? It seems to me it would be better to have 3-4 guys stay back to help fix the bike and pull to the next stop. Everyone else can continue. Would that violate some unwritten code?

[Jim Moore]

Originally Posted by Gummee!

Doubt it but give it a shot. FWI've seen the pins on a MC chain are much bigger. I know the side plates are farther apart. Same idea applies tho.

Quick question: why do you think you need a chain tool?

M

Idk, I figured I needed one. Can you do it with standard hand tools? I have a dremel, so I can get the old one off easy enough.

[Gummee!]

Originally Posted by Jim Moore

Idk, I figured I needed one. Can you do it with standard hand tools? I have a dremel, so I can get the old one off easy enough.

Measure first.

Break out a ruler and find the center of one pin. Measure 12" out and see where the center of that pin falls. If its 12" to 12 1/8" you're OK. 12 1/8" or longer? Replace. Plan on replacing your cassette if you've let your chain get beyond 1/8" stretch

Oh, and buy a chain tool. If you're mtn biking you WILL need one at some point or another. Sticks have this way of jumping up into your derailleurs... DAMHIK If you're wrenching at home, you'll need one to size your new chain(s)

M