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Old 09-23-2012, 02:27 PM   #25321
TheNedster
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gummee! View Post
Which brings me to: it ain't the bike doing the riding.
Truth. There was this goofy kid that moved here about a year ago and started showing up for rides on a ratty old GT roadie. Said kid immediately laid the smack down on the local fast guys with their pricey Ti and carbon rides. He moved away several months ago and some dudes are still turning themselves inside-out trying to snatch away his Strava KOMs.
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Old 09-23-2012, 02:54 PM   #25322
k7
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Team - ErrinV is only a couple of votes behind. Please take a second and vote for him!
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Old 09-23-2012, 07:31 PM   #25323
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I finally saw a bicycle get pulled over. Douche earned it too

I was riding the gutter adjacent to a steep hill through a neighborhood. As soon as I start downhill, I see this dude pedaling by on the road. He gets a downhill and accelerates toward a stop sign. There's a really obvious cop sitting opposite the stop sign. No way to miss him.

Homeboy never touches the brakes and hits the corner leaned over - totally ignoring the also obvious stop sign. I imagine that just pissed the cop off 'cause he caught the guy in 2 blocks - lights & siren the the whole party and was sort of shaking his head. Yeah, I rode by and made a little snicker noise
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Old 09-24-2012, 12:35 AM   #25324
pierce
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oh yeah, any tips on adjusting threadless headsets? I gather you're supposed to tighten the cap/plug before you tighten the clamp, but how much? Just enough that there's no noticable play in the headset if you grab the front brake and rock the bike fore-aft ?

most all my bikes in the past had old fashion threaded headsets...

oh, and when I finally decide how much to cut off permanently... How should I push the star nut farther into the tube? and what do people typically do, remove the whole fork, and cut it with a hacksaw in a miter box? or just wrap some masking tape around the headset to keep the filings out and cut it on the bike? Do I need to leave at least one spacer ring on there, or can I run with no spacers if thats where I want it? (right now, the bike has 4 10mm spacers, and I'm sitting on 2, but I'm already thinking I want the bars lower and a bit more forward...)
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Old 09-24-2012, 07:32 AM   #25325
Gummee!
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pierce View Post
oh yeah, any tips on adjusting threadless headsets? I gather you're supposed to tighten the cap/plug before you tighten the clamp, but how much? Just enough that there's no noticable play in the headset if you grab the front brake and rock the bike fore-aft ?
Yup. That's about the right way to do it. Park Tools' site if you wanna see videos.

Quote:
oh, and when I finally decide how much to cut off permanently... How should I push the star nut farther into the tube? and what do people typically do, remove the whole fork, and cut it with a hacksaw in a miter box? or just wrap some masking tape around the headset to keep the filings out and cut it on the bike? Do I need to leave at least one spacer ring on there, or can I run with no spacers if thats where I want it? (right now, the bike has 4 10mm spacers, and I'm sitting on 2, but I'm already thinking I want the bars lower and a bit more forward...)
Yes. I've done it pretty much any way you can think of: pipe cutter, saw with and without guides, etc. As long as the star nut's in straight, the rest is somewhat irrelevant. ...and yes, run a 5mm spacer under the top cap and on top of the stem.

You can either chop the old star nut out and pound it thru the leftover, or get a new one. They're not that expensive.

Got my buddy convinced to do some intervals today. Gonna ride him around one or both of my cross courses. He's been avoiding anything and everything associated with cross, so I'll report back.

M
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Old 09-24-2012, 09:09 AM   #25326
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gummee! View Post
run a 5mm spacer under the top cap and on top of the stem.
That's important.
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Old 09-24-2012, 11:43 AM   #25327
pierce
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gummee! View Post
...and yes, run a 5mm spacer under the top cap and on top of the stem.
hmmm. bike came from factory with 4 spacers UNDER the stem and nothing on top except the top itself. the tube was cut so it was a mm or two below the top of the clamp on the stem. I was thinking I'd want at least a thin spacer below the clamp and above the headset, but not above the clamp and below the cap. but OK.
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Old 09-24-2012, 01:31 PM   #25328
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Team - ErrinV is only a couple of votes behind. Please take a second and vote for him!
ErrinV - looks like you pulled it out w/ a little help from your friends?
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Old 09-24-2012, 01:37 PM   #25329
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What's your tribe?
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Old 09-24-2012, 02:29 PM   #25330
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CP Jumps on the cross bike: 10sec on/50sec off. Repeat 5x then 5min off. Repeat that 2x more. Ugh my legs are tired. Total ride time: 1:30

I did notice that my buddy on the FS 29er had a much easier time with the rougher part of the course than I did. The second set was standing and I was hopping all over like I was on a pogo stick on one effort.

Easy day tomorrow. Cross workout again on Wed. This time on the Zipps I just glued some tires to. Gotta test em before this weekend's race. Yup. I've gone full poseur to race for the middle of the pack.

M
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Old 09-24-2012, 07:14 PM   #25331
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hmmm. bike came from factory with 4 spacers UNDER the stem and nothing on top except the top itself. the tube was cut so it was a mm or two below the top of the clamp on the stem. I was thinking I'd want at least a thin spacer below the clamp and above the headset, but not above the clamp and below the cap. but OK.
When you tighten the stem, it doesn't tighten concentric (perfectly round). When you cut your steerer, cut it where it sits just below the top of whatever spacer you put on top of the stem. This will allow your cap to sit perfectly centered and flat.

If you run no spacer on top of the stem, you'll preload the headset and, then, tighten the stem. Many times, as the stem becomes non-concentric, it'll try and squeeze the cap out of the top of the stem. This will change the preload (making it tighter). Also, the cap will have a tendency to not sit level. Bottom line is that it becomes a PITA to get everything to properly seat, as it should, without a spacer on top of the stem.
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Old 09-24-2012, 07:43 PM   #25332
pierce
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ahhh, that makes perfect sense.

ok, I'll get me a nice skinny black 5mm when i'm done with trying out fits. 10mm sticking up is kinda fugly. also rescued the (almost) straight bars off my old bentup bike, and plan to measure to verify they will fit the brifters and grips....

the new bike has these "ergo" grips that are like flat on top, something like these...



haven't decided yet if I like them or not. if not, its back to Ourys
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Old 09-24-2012, 07:54 PM   #25333
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the new bike has these "ergo" grips that are like flat on top, something like these...


My GF and I run those, on our MTBs. We, both, have hand and elbow problems and those grips help, with our issues.
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Old 09-24-2012, 08:24 PM   #25334
pierce
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My GF and I run those, on our MTBs. We, both, have hand and elbow problems and those grips help, with our issues.
ok, I'll give them a go. my very limited driveway loops, I can already tell they are quite sensitive to being rotated to just the right position. the ones on this bike are just molded rubber, held in place by friction, but I see Ergon and others make nicer ones with a clamp.

i'm hoping Thursday to get the go-ahead from my doc to start riding more seriously so I can start tweaking my ergos as the 300 foot loops around my driveway just aren't enough to really tell what fits me.
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Old 09-24-2012, 08:30 PM   #25335
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ok, I'll give them a go. my very limited driveway loops, I can already tell they are quite sensitive to being rotated to just the right position. the ones on this bike are just molded rubber, held in place by friction, but I see Ergon and others make nicer ones with a clamp.
That they are.

We have the Ergon GP1 models.
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