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Old 10-19-2012, 01:41 PM   #25711
Ridge
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Biopace had the right idea, but applied incorrectly. They put the oval in wrong part of the rider's power stroke and it showed with a dead spot during the crank's rotation. Rider's reviews were mixed. Many experienced knee pain with the Bio Pace while some others actually said it relieved their knee pain... placebo if'n you ask me but ymmv.

The new Osymetric and Rotor Q-Rings (I have these) have moved the power stroke to a more optimized position on the chain ring. As long as they are installed correctly, you should notice a difference. I don't use them for the big ring and power efforts, but rather as a more consistent power delivery for my climbing gears.
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Old 10-19-2012, 01:56 PM   #25712
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ridge View Post
Biopace had the right idea, but applied incorrectly. They put the oval in wrong part of the rider's power stroke and it showed with a dead spot during the crank's rotation. Rider's reviews were mixed. Many experienced knee pain with the Bio Pace while some others actually said it relieved their knee pain... placebo if'n you ask me but ymmv.

The new Osymetric and Rotor Q-Rings (I have these) have moved the power stroke to a more optimized position on the chain ring. As long as they are installed correctly, you should notice a difference. I don't use them for the big ring and power efforts, but rather as a more consistent power delivery for my climbing gears.
So mix'n'match is okay? You can run a round big ring and an Osy small?
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Old 10-19-2012, 06:37 PM   #25713
Turbocelica
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Spoke Prep

What is it?
Is it a antisieze, lubricant or a threadlock?
A weird combination of the above, none of the above or something totally different

Justin
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Old 10-19-2012, 11:49 PM   #25714
pierce
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well, I was gonna step it up from my 11-12 mile loop to a 15-16, but it was windy and foggy as all getout by the time I got to Natural Bridges, and my healing foot was aching, so I turned around and did the 11 mile loop. had to relax my pace a bit too, legs were sore. ah well,. tomorrow is another day.
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Old 10-20-2012, 06:10 AM   #25715
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Turbocelica View Post
What is it?
Is it a antisieze, lubricant or a threadlock?
A weird combination of the above, none of the above or something totally different

Justin
Definitely, not a threadlock. For sure, a lubricant. I'd have to assume the residual lube would act as an antiseize.

Anytime I'm going to true my wheels, I put a wet lube on the spoke nipples, the night before.
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Old 10-20-2012, 07:38 AM   #25716
Turbocelica
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ducnut View Post
Definitely, not a threadlock. For sure, a lubricant. I'd have to assume the residual lube would act as an antiseize.

Anytime I'm going to true my wheels, I put a wet lube on the spoke nipples, the night before.
It seems like you'd want a magic compound that does a little bit of everything. Obviously you wouldn't want a threadlock but something that allowed the nipples to be turned with a spoke wrench but it resisted the nipple from moving on it's own while riding.

Did a bit of reading last night on the web, some people only prep the spokes on one flange of the hub and some use a bit of lube between the nipple and the eyelets on the rim. Linseed oil was mentioned several times as well. I guess it solidifies after a bit.

I was asking because I'm going to be changing a rim on a built wheel to a different color rim. Same model of rim so I was just going to tape the rims together and transfer the spoke & nipples over. And figured I might want to put something on the spoke while I did it. The wheel is a machine built Alfine hub 700C sold by Harris Cyclery. http://sheldonbrown.com/harris/wheelsint.html I'm sure they used something on the spokes at initial assembly. I got it used but don't know the history of it's exposure to the elements or washings. So I don't know how much of it is left?
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Old 10-20-2012, 08:12 AM   #25717
Gummee!
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Turbocelica View Post
It seems like you'd want a magic compound that does a little bit of everything. Obviously you wouldn't want a threadlock but something that allowed the nipples to be turned with a spoke wrench but it resisted the nipple from moving on it's own while riding.

Did a bit of reading last night on the web, some people only prep the spokes on one flange of the hub and some use a bit of lube between the nipple and the eyelets on the rim. Linseed oil was mentioned several times as well. I guess it solidifies after a bit.

I was asking because I'm going to be changing a rim on a built wheel to a different color rim. Same model of rim so I was just going to tape the rims together and transfer the spoke & nipples over. And figured I might want to put something on the spoke while I did it. The wheel is a machine built Alfine hub 700C sold by Harris Cyclery. http://sheldonbrown.com/harris/wheelsint.html I'm sure they used something on the spokes at initial assembly. I got it used but don't know the history of it's exposure to the elements or washings. So I don't know how much of it is left?
I've built with pretty much everything I could lay my hands on when I'm building wheels: spoke prep, oil, loctite, anti-seize, grease... I've never tried linseed oil.

Loctite is by far the worst option. Makes for tough times down the road when you need to true the wheels again.

After that, its basically personal preference. Lately I've been using Phil Wood Tenacious Oil. Bought the bottle while in college and still have 1/2 bottle left. I graduated college in 93, which'll tell you how little you really need of that stuff. For truly wet rides, it rocks. The rest of the time? Too much 'cause as the name sez, its tenacious.

M
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Old 10-20-2012, 11:24 AM   #25718
pierce
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Turbocelica View Post
What is it?
Is it a antisieze, lubricant or a threadlock?
A weird combination of the above, none of the above or something totally different

Justin
the few wheels I spoked 30 years ago, I used green marine grease on the threads. they trued up just fine. these were old school 3 cross 36H wheels. sewups (tubulars). campy NR hubs.
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Old 10-20-2012, 01:53 PM   #25719
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My first KOM




http://app.strava.com/activities/25589740#457327231
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Old 10-20-2012, 02:05 PM   #25720
pierce
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and here's your brownie pin!

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Old 10-20-2012, 04:22 PM   #25721
rbrsddn
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My buddy Tim and I rode 63 miles today to celebrate his birthday. A fairly flat beginning, with some killer hills thrown in the last 30 miles or so. This guy is 160 pounds or so, and has a family history of heart disease. He decided to head genetics off at the pass 15 years ago, and can flat out outride many guys half his age. What a strong rider... The post ride reward was a bottle of Long Trail Double IPA. Very tasty. I hope everyone got out and back without incident.
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Old 10-20-2012, 05:40 PM   #25722
k7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rbrsddn View Post
My buddy Tim and I rode 63 miles today to celebrate his birthday. A fairly flat beginning, with some killer hills thrown in the last 30 miles or so. This guy is 160 pounds or so, and has a family history of heart disease. He decided to head genetics off at the pass 15 years ago, and can flat out outride many guys half his age. What a strong rider... The post ride reward was a bottle of Long Trail Double IPA. Very tasty. I hope everyone got out and back without incident.
Outstanding!
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Old 10-20-2012, 07:23 PM   #25723
melville
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gummee! View Post
I've built with pretty much everything I could lay my hands on when I'm building wheels: spoke prep, oil, loctite, anti-seize, grease... I've never tried linseed oil.

Loctite is by far the worst option. Makes for tough times down the road when you need to true the wheels again.

After that, its basically personal preference. Lately I've been using Phil Wood Tenacious Oil. Bought the bottle while in college and still have 1/2 bottle left. I graduated college in 93, which'll tell you how little you really need of that stuff. For truly wet rides, it rocks. The rest of the time? Too much 'cause as the name sez, its tenacious.

M
Phil Tenacious Oil for ~1000 wheels built for me during my time in the biz.

For another opinion, I got a spoke kit from Buchanan's for my Airhead and it included what appeared to be linseed oil.
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Old 10-20-2012, 08:25 PM   #25724
Motocicletta
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Getting Strava to Work

Phone is Verizon Samsung Illusion, tried both Mapmyride and Strava, Wify off, location services on are 1. Verizon (VZW), 2. standalone GPS and 3. Google.

The GPS drops off and straightlines untill it reconnects again. Tomorrow I am going to try standalone GPS only.

The phone is in the center jersey pocket face up, any suggestions? Is just a crappy phone? I was able to get Verizon navigation on a circa 100 mile derive to work excellent.
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Old 10-20-2012, 08:44 PM   #25725
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Originally Posted by Motocicletta View Post
Phone is Verizon Samsung Illusion, tried both Mapmyride and Strava, Wify off, location services on are 1. Verizon (VZW), 2. standalone GPS and 3. Google.

The GPS drops off and straightlines untill it reconnects again. Tomorrow I am going to try standalone GPS only.

The phone is in the center jersey pocket face up, any suggestions? Is just a crappy phone? I was able to get Verizon navigation on a circa 100 mile derive to work excellent.
Samsung is not known for their antenna reception for GPS or cell service. Also make sure the phone is not going into deep sleep mode when the screen is off.
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