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Old 10-28-2012, 12:17 AM   #25726
Chillis
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pierce View Post
what sort of BB is it? loose ball and cone, square post cranks? you need a spanner and a pin wrench to adjust those properly. a bike shop should have everything they need to do it, on your own, its kinda tricky to get just right.

frankly, if a square post loose ball and cone BB is giving you trouble, I'd replace it with a $25 Shimano UN26 or whatever, needs to be the right length but otherwise, its just plug and play. one side you install a cup that you grease and screw in all the way, then slip in the BB, then the other side is a lock ring, grease it if its metal, but don't grease it if its plastic, and you screw it in fairly tight, the bearings are sealed and preset so they can't loosen up. then grease the posts and install the cranks. oh yeah, you need a BB tool and a crank puller to do that job too, but a LBS should do it for like $30 or something.
It is square spindle. I have the tools and have swapped once. I wiped some of the grease out and cranked it very snug this evening but it is definitely catching on the metal screw in lock screw or whatever it is called.

I don't have a pin wrench or spanner. The special toothed socket, the combination crank puller tool, and a big adjustable wrench.

Looking at the different designs, a lot of them come with a thread lock on the threads.

I will get another new one, clean the threads, and dab some light grade thread lock on the threads and reinstall with less force this time.

Grease leaked out of the threads of current bb.
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Old 10-28-2012, 02:06 AM   #25727
pierce
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brianwheelies View Post
It is square spindle. I have the tools and have swapped once. I wiped some of the grease out and cranked it very snug this evening but it is definitely catching on the metal screw in lock screw or whatever it is called.
is it a sealed bearing cartridge, or a loose ball and cone thing in there now?

a loose one is like this...



but thats a really /nice/ one from the early/mid 80s. with those, you have to set the cones just right so they are smooth, and this takes the pin spanner and whatever to adjust and tighten. the end on the top left is installed on the drive side, and torqued down (lightly grease the threads first, then put the bearings on the axle, heavily grease them, then insert the axle, and put the other piece on the far right on the non-drive side. the NDS cap has a lock ring, and you need to loosen the lock ring, adjust the inside piece to the bearing is just so, then tighten the lock ring. if it binds, redo it backing out the inner piece a hair. rinse repeat and it shoudl be good for /years/

if you have a cartridge bearing, its important to clean the threads thoroughly... grease the metal on metal threads but if the keeper ring on the other side is plastic, do NOT grease it. you insert the BB tool into that ring and torque it on pretty good (specs in Shimano lit here...
http://techdocs.shimano.com/media/te...9830677388.pdf
says 50-70 N*m, or 7-10 ft-lbs.

if the ends of the bottom bracket hanger on your frame aren't smooth and parallel, they won't seat right. a decent bike shop has a tool for facing the ends so they ARE parallel and square
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Old 10-28-2012, 07:22 AM   #25728
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pierce View Post
the fun part about that QPB onine catalog is finding stuff. .
I agree; provides hours of entertainment.

Quote:
Originally Posted by pierce View Post
this years catalog, the clothing and accessories section is a lovely pale yellow on light green, almost impossible to read at normal size on my 24" computer monitor, but a half dozen pages before that, the regular components index starts, and its got a orange background and is at semi-readable. once you find a page number.
Yeah, WTF were they thinking? The contrast makes the index nearly useless.
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Old 10-28-2012, 07:29 AM   #25729
Gummee!
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On right now: Pilzen Cross

Live from EUR!

M
(but its in either Belgian or Dutch)
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Old 10-28-2012, 11:18 AM   #25730
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Just got in from not quite 2hrs with 2 x 3-lap 'cross races' around my local park.

That's on top of yesterday's 3:40 or so up and down the hills between my house, Rectortown, Marshall, and Warrenton.

Ugh are my legs tired.

M
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Old 10-28-2012, 04:02 PM   #25731
Craiger
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Go to buy cold weather pants and thinking of buying a road bike

Need some advice from the very experienced and knowledgeable riders here.
I was not real happy with the owner of the Specialized LBS, we have 3 LBS within 1/2 blocks of each other. I went to the Giant LBS to look at some cold weather riding pants. I was on my GSA which has a very distinct paint job and it is street only parking. The older gentleman working commented how he had seen my GSA at the other bike shop and politely asked why I had never shopped with him. I told him I came to the store back in the summer when I was looking to buy a bike but the young man working at the time seemed to have no time for my novice questions and ignored me returning to his conversations who I assumed was his riding buddies. He shook his head and apologized and stated I was the fourth or fifth person he has talked to telling the same general story and he had let that person go about a month ago just for that reason. He said I am the owner and would like to welcome you to the store and showed me his selection of cold weather riding pants. I found a pair of pants I liked and he discounted them 20% I continued to look around. We talked a little and I shared with him my interest in wanting to get a road bike. He said I can make you a great deal on a left over 2012 55.5 Giant Defy Composite 3 cash/check price $1,100 + tax he also said he would take my 2013 Crosstrail in on trade if I wanted to do that but would have to look at it before he could give me a price. I can test ride it anytime but it did not feel bad sitting on it in the store.
This seems like a lot of bike for a good price but again I am still a cycling noob just wanted some advice Pros Cons or other thoughts before going in for a test ride...

Bike Frame Information

Frame.... Giant Composite Technology
Fork... Advanced-Grade Composite, Full-Composite OverDrive Steerer

Drivetrain Information

Shifters.....Shimano Tiagra
Front Derailleur..Shimano Tiagra
Rear Derailleur...Shimano Tiagra
Chain Shimano...Tiagra
Crankset.....FSA MegaExo, 34/50
Cassette Shimano Tiagra 12x28, 10-Speed
Bottom Bracket...Shimano, Press Fit

Tire and Wheel Specifications

Rims.........Giant P-R2
Spokes DT Swiss Competition, 14/15g
Front Hub Giant Sealed Bearing 24/28h
Rear Hub Giant Sealed Bearing 24/28h
Front Tire Giant P-R3, Flat Guard, Front and Rear Specific, 700x23
Rear Tire Giant P-R3, Flat Guard, Front and Rear Specific, 700x23

2012 Defy Composite 3 Group set

Brakes.......Tektro TK-R540 Giant Specific, Dual Pivot.
Brake Levers....Shimano Tiagra
Handlebars.....Giant Connect, 31.8
Stem.........Giant Sport
Saddle.......Giant Performance Road,
Seat-post.....Giant Vector Composite
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Old 10-28-2012, 04:27 PM   #25732
Chillis
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Craiger, you can get a lot of bike on the used market too. 1100 plus tax for carbon frame and tiagra drive train is OK. Nashbar has a full carbon road bike that has no decals but comes with better components for a similar price plus they do sales constantly and no tax if you are out of state.

Also consider what you may want to do with the bike. Longer rides and you may want something with built in rack mounts.
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Old 10-28-2012, 06:50 PM   #25733
Craiger
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brianwheelies View Post
Craiger, you can get a lot of bike on the used market too. 1100 plus tax for carbon frame and tiagra drive train is OK. Nashbar has a full carbon road bike that has no decals but comes with better components for a similar price plus they do sales constantly and no tax if you are out of state.

Also consider what you may want to do with the bike. Longer rides and you may want something with built in rack mounts.
WOW Nashbar just made my head spin... The problem with Nashbar for me is I don't know the components or have enough experience to know what I would be ordering... I just started cycling this summer and had not had a bike since my Schwinn Varsity ten speed 30 years ago. I bought my Hybrid not knowing what type or even if I would like cycling. I needed to find a physical activity I might enjoy and the last few months I have been cycling an avg. 5 or 6 days a week, I am cycling 12 to 17 miles per ride through the week and on weekend rides I have been doing 15 to 25 mile days trying to build my base fitness. I have been road riding in and around town with the occasional trip to the bike trail. Saturday was to be my first fitness test as my goal was to try and do 50 miles Saturday but I had the eggbeater collapse again 10.5 miles into my ride. With 95% of my miles on the road I figured I might like a road bike better than my hybrid for how I have been riding. Just for reference I am 6' 3" 228lbs with a 32" inseam I wondered if I was a little big for a composite bike but the bike shop owner assured me the bike would handle my size....
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Old 10-28-2012, 07:46 PM   #25734
pierce
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Craiger View Post
WOW Nashbar just made my head spin... The problem with Nashbar for me is I don't know the components or have enough experience to know what I would be ordering... ....
plus, you don't get the fitting expertise of your LBS, and you are either going to have to pay them or setup the bike yourself. most LBSs include a 90 day tuneup with a new bike where they tighten all the stuff that loosens up, retrue the wheels (new wheels often loosen up a bit after the first few 100 miles), readjust the derailleurs, etc. this isn't a big deal for someone experienced, but for a relative novice its worth it.
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Old 10-28-2012, 07:52 PM   #25735
k7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pierce View Post
plus, you don't get the fitting expertise of your LBS, and you are either going to have to pay them or setup the bike yourself. most LBSs include a 90 day tuneup with a new bike where they tighten all the stuff that loosens up, retrue the wheels (new wheels often loosen up a bit after the first few 100 miles), readjust the derailleurs, etc. this isn't a big deal for someone experienced, but for a relative novice its worth it.
Plus one...get thee to your LBS.
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Old 10-29-2012, 05:36 AM   #25736
Aurelius
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Rear derailleure problem

My Trek Superlfly 100 has been plagued with persistent problems when downshifting under power. The SRAM X9 seems to work flawlessly when the bike is suspended from a stand, but the minute I take it out on the trails and downshift, it either doesn't shift gears at all, or it will shift seconds later, accompanied by a nasty grinding sound. In some instances, it suddenly popped into another gear even when no gearshift has been initiated. Oddly enough, shifting to higher gears goes very smoothly and predictably; I can't recall a single instance in which it has failed to up-shift. I've brought the bike into the Trek store repeatedly, and each time they 'fix' it, it will work for maybe one trail ride, and then begins malfunctioning again. Yesterday the excuse I got was that dirt from the trails may be causing it, yet none of my three other mountain bikes ever exhibited this problem when ridden on the very same trails.

At this point I'm inclined to think the X9 unit is defective. It's still under warranty, yet the dealership has been very reluctant to replace it with a new one. The shifter on the handlebar has already been replaced, but that didn't solve the problem, so whatever is going wrong seems to be further down the line. Can anyone suggest what else might be causing this before I pressure the dealership for a replacement?

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Old 10-29-2012, 06:49 AM   #25737
Mercury264
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One more Like, Gerry. I hope you win the bet, and get your hating coworker into riding!
+1

Great story - one more like from me.
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Old 10-29-2012, 07:35 AM   #25738
Gummee!
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aurelius View Post
My Trek Superlfly 100 has been plagued with persistent problems when downshifting under power. The SRAM X9 seems to work flawlessly when the bike is suspended from a stand, but the minute I take it out on the trails and downshift, it either doesn't shift gears at all, or it will shift seconds later, accompanied by a nasty grinding sound. In some instances, it suddenly popped into another gear even when no gearshift has been initiated. Oddly enough, shifting to higher gears goes very smoothly and predictably; I can't recall a single instance in which it has failed to up-shift. I've brought the bike into the Trek store repeatedly, and each time they 'fix' it, it will work for maybe one trail ride, and then begins malfunctioning again. Yesterday the excuse I got was that dirt from the trails may be causing it, yet none of my three other mountain bikes ever exhibited this problem when ridden on the very same trails.

At this point I'm inclined to think the X9 unit is defective. It's still under warranty, yet the dealership has been very reluctant to replace it with a new one. The shifter on the handlebar has already been replaced, but that didn't solve the problem, so whatever is going wrong seems to be further down the line. Can anyone suggest what else might be causing this before I pressure the dealership for a replacement?

Ya gotta define which direction is up and which is down. Up as in easier to pedal or up as in harder to pedal (physically bigger gears or physically smaller gears)

Regardless, I doubt its the parts.

When you're shifting, do you let off the power for an instant? (like pushing the clutch in in a car with a manual trans) ...or are you continually mashing on the gears as you're stabbing with your thumb and swearing?

Have you checked to make sure your derailleur hanger is on tight and not bent?

Have you replaced cables and housing?



M
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Old 10-29-2012, 08:05 AM   #25739
Aurelius
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gummee! View Post
Ya gotta define which direction is up and which is down. Up as in easier to pedal or up as in harder to pedal (physically bigger gears or physically smaller gears)
Downshifting, as in shifting to a lower (larger diameter) gear.

Quote:
When you're shifting, do you let off the power for an instant? (like pushing the clutch in in a car with a manual trans) ...or are you continually mashing on the gears as you're stabbing with your thumb and swearing?
Ideally, I shift gears just before I need to so that I'm not pressing hard on the pedals when the chain moves from one gear to another. But on unfamiliar trails, I'll sometimes come around a blind turn and be confronted by a steep climb or a rooty/rocky section of trail. In those instances I have no choice but to shift as I'm pedaling hard. I hate having to do that, since it makes a nasty grinding sound, which can't be good for the chain and gears.

Quote:
Have you checked to make sure your derailleur hanger is on tight and not bent?
Not me personally, but I've had it checked by half a dozen bicycle mechanics over the past few months. Wouldn't they have noticed something like that?

Quote:
Have you replaced cables and housing?
No. I only bought the bike in late March of this year, so I wouldn't expect the cables and/or housings to be worn out.

I just spoke with another bicycle mechanic who thinks it may be caused by a bit of slack in the cable as the rear suspension is compressed. The loss of tension in the cable would explain why it only happens when I'm riding the bike, and why it only occurs when downshifting and not when up-shifting. He suggested turning the barrel adjuster the next time I'm out on the trail to see if the problem goes away.
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Old 10-29-2012, 08:12 AM   #25740
Gummee!
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If you ride off-road, cables and housings should be on at least a 1x/year replacement schedule. 2x/year if you're off-road frequently. To save $ run the old rear cable as the 'new' front cable. Front shifting's not nearly as finicky as rear shifting.

You can still let off for an instant as you shift, but it takes practice. Push hard with your dominant foot, ease thru with the off-side, then hard again on the dominant foot after the chain's shifted. Among other things, it'll help your stuff last longer.

Your suspension activating *shouldn't* affect your shifting. ...unless there's a burr or something similar in one of the cable stops on the frame that grabs your cable. One other thing to try is put the bike on a trainer, sit on the saddle and have em adjust the rear derailleur as you're on the bike. That way, the suspension's compressed as you're adjusting things.

My 'over the innerwebs' diagnosis is cable issues. Change em and see.

M
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