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Old 10-28-2012, 07:46 PM   #25846
pierce
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Craiger View Post
WOW Nashbar just made my head spin... The problem with Nashbar for me is I don't know the components or have enough experience to know what I would be ordering... ....
plus, you don't get the fitting expertise of your LBS, and you are either going to have to pay them or setup the bike yourself. most LBSs include a 90 day tuneup with a new bike where they tighten all the stuff that loosens up, retrue the wheels (new wheels often loosen up a bit after the first few 100 miles), readjust the derailleurs, etc. this isn't a big deal for someone experienced, but for a relative novice its worth it.
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Old 10-28-2012, 07:52 PM   #25847
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Originally Posted by pierce View Post
plus, you don't get the fitting expertise of your LBS, and you are either going to have to pay them or setup the bike yourself. most LBSs include a 90 day tuneup with a new bike where they tighten all the stuff that loosens up, retrue the wheels (new wheels often loosen up a bit after the first few 100 miles), readjust the derailleurs, etc. this isn't a big deal for someone experienced, but for a relative novice its worth it.
Plus one...get thee to your LBS.
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Old 10-29-2012, 05:36 AM   #25848
Aurelius
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Rear derailleure problem

My Trek Superlfly 100 has been plagued with persistent problems when downshifting under power. The SRAM X9 seems to work flawlessly when the bike is suspended from a stand, but the minute I take it out on the trails and downshift, it either doesn't shift gears at all, or it will shift seconds later, accompanied by a nasty grinding sound. In some instances, it suddenly popped into another gear even when no gearshift has been initiated. Oddly enough, shifting to higher gears goes very smoothly and predictably; I can't recall a single instance in which it has failed to up-shift. I've brought the bike into the Trek store repeatedly, and each time they 'fix' it, it will work for maybe one trail ride, and then begins malfunctioning again. Yesterday the excuse I got was that dirt from the trails may be causing it, yet none of my three other mountain bikes ever exhibited this problem when ridden on the very same trails.

At this point I'm inclined to think the X9 unit is defective. It's still under warranty, yet the dealership has been very reluctant to replace it with a new one. The shifter on the handlebar has already been replaced, but that didn't solve the problem, so whatever is going wrong seems to be further down the line. Can anyone suggest what else might be causing this before I pressure the dealership for a replacement?

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Old 10-29-2012, 06:49 AM   #25849
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Originally Posted by rbrsddn View Post
One more Like, Gerry. I hope you win the bet, and get your hating coworker into riding!
+1

Great story - one more like from me.
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Old 10-29-2012, 07:35 AM   #25850
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aurelius View Post
My Trek Superlfly 100 has been plagued with persistent problems when downshifting under power. The SRAM X9 seems to work flawlessly when the bike is suspended from a stand, but the minute I take it out on the trails and downshift, it either doesn't shift gears at all, or it will shift seconds later, accompanied by a nasty grinding sound. In some instances, it suddenly popped into another gear even when no gearshift has been initiated. Oddly enough, shifting to higher gears goes very smoothly and predictably; I can't recall a single instance in which it has failed to up-shift. I've brought the bike into the Trek store repeatedly, and each time they 'fix' it, it will work for maybe one trail ride, and then begins malfunctioning again. Yesterday the excuse I got was that dirt from the trails may be causing it, yet none of my three other mountain bikes ever exhibited this problem when ridden on the very same trails.

At this point I'm inclined to think the X9 unit is defective. It's still under warranty, yet the dealership has been very reluctant to replace it with a new one. The shifter on the handlebar has already been replaced, but that didn't solve the problem, so whatever is going wrong seems to be further down the line. Can anyone suggest what else might be causing this before I pressure the dealership for a replacement?

Ya gotta define which direction is up and which is down. Up as in easier to pedal or up as in harder to pedal (physically bigger gears or physically smaller gears)

Regardless, I doubt its the parts.

When you're shifting, do you let off the power for an instant? (like pushing the clutch in in a car with a manual trans) ...or are you continually mashing on the gears as you're stabbing with your thumb and swearing?

Have you checked to make sure your derailleur hanger is on tight and not bent?

Have you replaced cables and housing?



M
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Old 10-29-2012, 08:05 AM   #25851
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Originally Posted by Gummee! View Post
Ya gotta define which direction is up and which is down. Up as in easier to pedal or up as in harder to pedal (physically bigger gears or physically smaller gears)
Downshifting, as in shifting to a lower (larger diameter) gear.

Quote:
When you're shifting, do you let off the power for an instant? (like pushing the clutch in in a car with a manual trans) ...or are you continually mashing on the gears as you're stabbing with your thumb and swearing?
Ideally, I shift gears just before I need to so that I'm not pressing hard on the pedals when the chain moves from one gear to another. But on unfamiliar trails, I'll sometimes come around a blind turn and be confronted by a steep climb or a rooty/rocky section of trail. In those instances I have no choice but to shift as I'm pedaling hard. I hate having to do that, since it makes a nasty grinding sound, which can't be good for the chain and gears.

Quote:
Have you checked to make sure your derailleur hanger is on tight and not bent?
Not me personally, but I've had it checked by half a dozen bicycle mechanics over the past few months. Wouldn't they have noticed something like that?

Quote:
Have you replaced cables and housing?
No. I only bought the bike in late March of this year, so I wouldn't expect the cables and/or housings to be worn out.

I just spoke with another bicycle mechanic who thinks it may be caused by a bit of slack in the cable as the rear suspension is compressed. The loss of tension in the cable would explain why it only happens when I'm riding the bike, and why it only occurs when downshifting and not when up-shifting. He suggested turning the barrel adjuster the next time I'm out on the trail to see if the problem goes away.
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Old 10-29-2012, 08:12 AM   #25852
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If you ride off-road, cables and housings should be on at least a 1x/year replacement schedule. 2x/year if you're off-road frequently. To save $ run the old rear cable as the 'new' front cable. Front shifting's not nearly as finicky as rear shifting.

You can still let off for an instant as you shift, but it takes practice. Push hard with your dominant foot, ease thru with the off-side, then hard again on the dominant foot after the chain's shifted. Among other things, it'll help your stuff last longer.

Your suspension activating *shouldn't* affect your shifting. ...unless there's a burr or something similar in one of the cable stops on the frame that grabs your cable. One other thing to try is put the bike on a trainer, sit on the saddle and have em adjust the rear derailleur as you're on the bike. That way, the suspension's compressed as you're adjusting things.

My 'over the innerwebs' diagnosis is cable issues. Change em and see.

M
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Old 10-29-2012, 08:46 AM   #25853
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gummee! View Post
If you ride off-road, cables and housings should be on at least a 1x/year replacement schedule. 2x/year if you're off-road frequently. To save $ run the old rear cable as the 'new' front cable. Front shifting's not nearly as finicky as rear shifting.
I've got Trek's 'Red Shield' five year maintenance coverage. It's supposed to include even wear items like brake pads. I'll ask them if they'll replace the brake cables and housings.

Quote:
You can still let off for an instant as you shift, but it takes practice. Push hard with your dominant foot, ease thru with the off-side, then hard again on the dominant foot after the chain's shifted. Among other things, it'll help your stuff last longer.
I definitely need to work on technique. I've gotten so fast lately that all I'm concentrating on is climbing higher on the Strava leader boards rather than working on my basic skillz.

Quote:
Your suspension activating *shouldn't* affect your shifting. ...unless there's a burr or something similar in one of the cable stops on the frame that grabs your cable. One other thing to try is put the bike on a trainer, sit on the saddle and have em adjust the rear derailleur as you're on the bike. That way, the suspension's compressed as you're adjusting things.
Putting the bike on a trainer sounds like an excellent idea. I'll mention it the next time I'm in there. The mechanic I spoke with says that because of the way the cable is routed, compressing the rear suspension rotates the swingarm upward, giving the cable a bit more slack than it has when no one is sitting on the bike. That extra slack, he thinks, is causing the derailleur not to move over as far as it should when I downshift. It might explain why the problem never occurs when the bike is up on a stand.
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Old 10-29-2012, 09:10 AM   #25854
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Originally Posted by Craiger View Post
Need some advice from the very experienced and knowledgeable riders here. He said I can make you a great deal on a left over 2012 55.5 Giant Defy Composite 3 cash/check price $1,100 + tax he also said he would take my 2013 Crosstrail in on trade if I wanted to do that but would have to look at it before he could give me a price. I can test ride it anytime but it did not feel bad sitting on it in the store.
This seems like a lot of bike for a good price but again I am still a cycling noob just wanted some advice Pros Cons or other thoughts before going in for a test ride...
That Defy would be nice bike, for anyone starting out. Yeah, a little better drivetrain would be nice, but, you can always upgrade, later, as that's a really good frame to build upon. The price is excellent.

I'd suggest working out a deal where they can swap on the largest tires that'll fit. A larger volume tire will ride better and provide additional protection against rim dings and pinch flats. That's important for a heavier rider. I believe a 28mm will fit that bike.

I'd skip mailorder. As a novice, you're going to need the support of your LBS. The guy seems genuinely nice and wants your business. It would be in your best interest to have him behind you. Plus, you'll get a no-hassle warranty and tune-up support. At the minimum, you'll need wheel truing.

I'm not sure on the size he's suggesting. At 6'3" and only 32" inseam, it appears you're of a longer torso. If so, I'd suggest looking at an XL, for comparison. The toptube seems a little short for someone of your proportions. Just ask him about it, to be sure.

I'd keep your Crosstrail. You're not into that bike for a lot of money and it'll be handy to have around for other types of riding, like rail-trails.
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Old 10-29-2012, 09:23 AM   #25855
ducnut
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aurelius View Post
My Trek Superlfly 100 has been plagued with persistent problems when downshifting under power. The SRAM X9 seems to work flawlessly when the bike is suspended from a stand, but the minute I take it out on the trails and downshift, it either doesn't shift gears at all, or it will shift seconds later, accompanied by a nasty grinding sound. In some instances, it suddenly popped into another gear even when no gearshift has been initiated. Oddly enough, shifting to higher gears goes very smoothly and predictably; I can't recall a single instance in which it has failed to up-shift. I've brought the bike into the Trek store repeatedly, and each time they 'fix' it, it will work for maybe one trail ride, and then begins malfunctioning again. Yesterday the excuse I got was that dirt from the trails may be causing it, yet none of my three other mountain bikes ever exhibited this problem when ridden on the very same trails.

At this point I'm inclined to think the X9 unit is defective. It's still under warranty, yet the dealership has been very reluctant to replace it with a new one. The shifter on the handlebar has already been replaced, but that didn't solve the problem, so whatever is going wrong seems to be further down the line. Can anyone suggest what else might be causing this before I pressure the dealership for a replacement?

I've been through this same scenario with my MTB partner's bike. He never does any preventive maintenance (only lube on the chain, but, never cleaning). He shifts under power. He's ~250lbs. We replaced the chain and cassette, because he'd torn up the originals. We adjusted numerous times, but, still couldn't get it to shift right. Turns out, the cables were dragging. Why? They'd never been cleaned or lubed. I suggested replacing them, but, he didn't want to. OK, fine. But, you're going to have problems again and soon. Most likely we'll be doing another chain and cassette. I don't get it.

Given where you ride, you'll need a lot more maintenance than normal. When I got home from just 2 days (~90 miles of riding) at Santos, I pulled everything apart. There was sand in everything. We don't have that type of intrusion, up here. So, at the minum, I'd suggest replacing your shift cables (lube them, upon assembly-I'd suggest Gore cables), disassembling, cleaning, and lubing your shifters, chain, and derailluers. This will give you a fresh foundation to start from. And, you'll need stay on top of your barrel adjusters. Just a 1/2 turn will make all the difference in shift quality.
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Old 10-29-2012, 09:41 AM   #25856
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It's simple: if I can get 100 thumbs-up by Monday morning, he'll donate $50 to the charity of my choice. Actually, we'll do it through a work foundation which will match it so technically, it'll be $100. My mother died of complications from Alzheimers so you can guess the charity of my choice.

If I don't get the 100 thumbs-up, I'll make the same donation to the charity of his choice.
147 votes just before I posted this. He should be elbows deep into eating crow and throwing money at your charity by now...
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Old 10-29-2012, 09:58 AM   #25857
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147 votes just before I posted this. He should be elbows deep into eating crow and throwing money at your charity by now...


He's not real thrilled by my use of ...uh... social media....but he'll be paying up. I decided since I pulled a fast one, I'll make the same donation so now, the Alzheimer Association will see a total of $200 from us. win/win!
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Old 10-29-2012, 10:33 AM   #25858
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I'll make the same donation so now, the Alzheimer Association will see a total of $200 from us. win/win!
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Old 10-29-2012, 10:44 AM   #25859
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Originally Posted by ducnut View Post
That Defy would be nice bike, for anyone starting out. Yeah, a little better drivetrain would be nice, but, you can always upgrade, later, as that's a really good frame to build upon. The price is excellent.

I'd suggest working out a deal where they can swap on the largest tires that'll fit. A larger volume tire will ride better and provide additional protection against rim dings and pinch flats. That's important for a heavier rider. I believe a 28mm will fit that bike.

I'd skip mailorder. As a novice, you're going to need the support of your LBS. The guy seems genuinely nice and wants your business. It would be in your best interest to have him behind you. Plus, you'll get a no-hassle warranty and tune-up support. At the minimum, you'll need wheel truing.

I'm not sure on the size he's suggesting. At 6'3" and only 32" inseam, it appears you're of a longer torso. If so, I'd suggest looking at an XL, for comparison. The toptube seems a little short for someone of your proportions. Just ask him about it, to be sure.

I'd keep your Crosstrail. You're not into that bike for a lot of money and it'll be handy to have around for other types of riding, like rail-trails.
Mail order for me is out of the question at this time. I must now correct myself having looked at so many different bikes Saturday, I confused myself on the bike that was marked down. The bike is not a 2012 it is a 2011 left over. The bike that is marked down is a 2011 Defy Advanced 4 if that makes a difference. I am going to test ride it Wed with an open mind about the size and comfort. I also am 95% sure I am keeping my Cross Trail. Does this new and correct information change anything??????


http://www.giant-bicycles.com/en-us/....4/7316/44046/
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Old 10-29-2012, 11:36 AM   #25860
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Originally Posted by k7 View Post


He's not real thrilled by my use of ...uh... social media....but he'll be paying up. I decided since I pulled a fast one, I'll make the same donation so now, the Alzheimer Association will see a total of $200 from us. win/win!


Quote:
Originally Posted by Craiger View Post
Mail order for me is out of the question at this time. I must now correct myself having looked at so many different bikes Saturday, I confused myself on the bike that was marked down. The bike is not a 2012 it is a 2011 left over. The bike that is marked down is a 2011 Defy Advanced 4 if that makes a difference. I am going to test ride it Wed with an open mind about the size and comfort. I also am 95% sure I am keeping my Cross Trail. Does this new and correct information change anything??????


http://www.giant-bicycles.com/en-us/....4/7316/44046/
Oh yeah. That bike is one year older. You can't possibly get any style points when you pedal up to Starbucks on an '11. Sheesh.



Just kidding. That looks like a great platform to start out on. Tiagra stuff is pretty solid and doesn't require the tuning/maintenance of the gruppos higher up on the chain. (Ultegra/Dura-Ace)

I don't know what your area is like, but as a fellow Clyde, check your brakes. One area that discount bikes will try to save a few pennies on is the brakes and if you're hauling downhill, you'll need all the power you can get to slow you down. I found Tektro brakes to be nearly suicidal for long, high-speed downhills. You can upgrade the calipers to better Shimano model or there are other brands that will work as well. OTOH, if it's flat where you are, ride on.
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