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Old 05-13-2013, 09:59 AM   #28711
kbasa
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gummee! View Post
The spacing between the gears is slightly different Campag vs SRAM/Shimano. If you want quiet, you'll need Campag shifters and rear derailleur.

Try American Classic for cassettes. I know they do a Shimano to Campag spaced cassette but IDK if they go the other way

Alternatively, I *think* Miche still has separate cogs. You may be able to sand down the spacers to get the spacing right. You'd have to do some digging on that one.

M
Yeah. Mische sells a set of Campy compatible cogs. I've got some hanging around the house, if you need anything specific.
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Old 05-13-2013, 10:00 AM   #28712
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That Holland is what I saw. OMG, so beautiful...
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Old 05-13-2013, 12:29 PM   #28713
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Originally Posted by kbasa View Post
That Holland is what I saw. OMG, so beautiful...
If you can find one, the Titus Ligero is too

M
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Old 05-13-2013, 12:42 PM   #28714
2whl-hoop
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On disc brakes and road bikes...

This spring, I was actually looking at the Salsa Colossal, but the shop had a leftover Synapse that distracted me, and I never even tried the Colossal out other than to sit on it for a minute. I should have test rode it though, because I'd like to see how the disc brakes operate compared to my Vaya. On the Vaya the levers pull back to the bar under full braking, to the point that the shifter portion of the lever actually overlaps the bar. It's borderline dangerous because in a panic situation, if you don't have time to move your fingers out of the way, they can become pinched under the lever and prevent maximum braking. The dual pivot caliper rim brakes have much shorter travel and a more solid feel at the lever. To me, that's their biggest advantage, as well as less noise when compared to discs.
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Old 05-13-2013, 12:50 PM   #28715
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2whl-hoop View Post
This spring, I was actually looking at the Salsa Colossal, but the shop had a leftover Synapse that distracted me, and I never even tried the Colossal out other than to sit on it for a minute. I should have test rode it though, because I'd like to see how the disc brakes operate compared to my Vaya. On the Vaya the levers pull back to the bar under full braking, to the point that the shifter portion of the lever actually overlaps the bar. It's borderline dangerous because in a panic situation, if you don't have time to move your fingers out of the way, they can become pinched under the lever and prevent maximum braking. The dual pivot caliper rim brakes have much shorter travel and a more solid feel at the lever. To me, that's their biggest advantage, as well as less noise when compared to discs.
That sounds like a set-up problem OR you have mtn calipers with road levers. Which is the same as saying you have a set-up problem.

Time to break out the wrenches and start fiddling.

M
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Old 05-13-2013, 03:07 PM   #28716
2whl-hoop
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gummee! View Post
That sounds like a set-up problem OR you have mtn calipers with road levers. Which is the same as saying you have a set-up problem.

Time to break out the wrenches and start fiddling.

M
It's the stock set-up: SRAM Apex levers and Avid BB5 calipers

There's not enough room on the barrel adjusters to take up all the travel. I'll have to go back to the shop and see what they have to say...it'll be a good excuse to try that Colossal...
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Old 05-13-2013, 03:39 PM   #28717
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2whl-hoop View Post
It's the stock set-up: SRAM Apex levers and Avid BB5 calipers

There's not enough room on the barrel adjusters to take up all the travel. I'll have to go back to the shop and see what they have to say...it'll be a good excuse to try that Colossal...
So... whatcha do is loosen the bbl adjusters till they're almost out (leave a thread or two in the caliper), loosen the pinch bolt holding the cable onto the caliper, take the slack out of the cable, tighten pinch bolt, righty tighty on the bbl adjuster till you get the level of lever movement you need, keep bike at home.

If you need to eliminate some rubbing, loosen the two bolts on the carrier that holds the caliper onto the adaptor and move it around till there's no rubbing. Keep the bike at home.

On certain brakes, you can squeeze the lever to compress the pads to the disc and tighten the adjusting bolts on the caliper. That'll center the brake. On the BB series of brakes, the red 'serrated' disc on the inside of the caliper is the 'off-side' adjuster. Loosen or tighten till you get the pad close enough to be close, but not rubbing.

It really isn't hard, you just need to fiddle with it some.

M
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Old 05-13-2013, 03:40 PM   #28718
pierce
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considering how few spokes the typical modern roadie runs, and the trend towards radial spoked fronts, I'd think disks would not be a good idea on those.

on a full dress long frame touring bike with 36H 3-cross, sure, go for it!
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Old 05-13-2013, 03:42 PM   #28719
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pierce View Post
considering how few spokes the typical modern roadie runs, and the trend towards radial spoked fronts, I'd think disks would not be a good idea on those.

on a full dress long frame touring bike with 36H 3-cross, sure, go for it!
Radial lacing is not acceptable for discs. There're some carbon/lightweight wheels with a few crosses and fewer spokes, but they're the minority.

M
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Old 05-13-2013, 04:49 PM   #28720
bogieboy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gummee! View Post
So... whatcha do is loosen the bbl adjusters till they're almost out (leave a thread or two in the caliper), loosen the pinch bolt holding the cable onto the caliper, take the slack out of the cable, tighten pinch bolt, righty tighty on the bbl adjuster till you get the level of lever movement you need, keep bike at home.

If you need to eliminate some rubbing, loosen the two bolts on the carrier that holds the caliper onto the adaptor and move it around till there's no rubbing. Keep the bike at home.

On certain brakes, you can squeeze the lever to compress the pads to the disc and tighten the adjusting bolts on the caliper. That'll center the brake. On the BB series of brakes, the red 'serrated' disc on the inside of the caliper is the 'off-side' adjuster. Loosen or tighten till you get the pad close enough to be close, but not rubbing.

It really isn't hard, you just need to fiddle with it some.

M
The BB5 needs the inboard pad adjusted out (away from the center of the rim) so that the disc only has a busines card thickness gap on each side when theres no cable attached.... I also have bb5s on my mtb, and i did a front flip first time i grabbed a handful...

Also, the brake lever needs to be held to keep the caliper square to the disc when tightening the mount bolts...they are a hair more finicky than some brakes to install but properly installed they will be more brake than most anyone would need short of hurling down a mountain on a wooded singletrack...then i would go with some sort of hydro....
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Old 05-13-2013, 05:03 PM   #28721
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bogieboy View Post
they are a hair more finicky than some brakes to install but properly installed they will be more brake than most anyone would need short of hurling down a mountain on a wooded singletrack...then i would go with some sort of hydro....
I have a BB-7 on the front of my mtn bike. Works very well. Lots of power. Lots of modulation.

Not *quite* as much of either as the hydro brakes I've ridden, but the BB-7s are MUCH easier to live with on a daily basis. IOW no brake bleeding!

M
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Old 05-13-2013, 05:54 PM   #28722
2whl-hoop
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gummee! View Post
So... whatcha do is loosen the bbl adjusters till they're almost out (leave a thread or two in the caliper), loosen the pinch bolt holding the cable onto the caliper, take the slack out of the cable, tighten pinch bolt, righty tighty on the bbl adjuster till you get the level of lever movement you need, keep bike at home.

If you need to eliminate some rubbing, loosen the two bolts on the carrier that holds the caliper onto the adaptor and move it around till there's no rubbing. Keep the bike at home.

On certain brakes, you can squeeze the lever to compress the pads to the disc and tighten the adjusting bolts on the caliper. That'll center the brake. On the BB series of brakes, the red 'serrated' disc on the inside of the caliper is the 'off-side' adjuster. Loosen or tighten till you get the pad close enough to be close, but not rubbing.

It really isn't hard, you just need to fiddle with it some.

M
I'll give that a try, thanks!
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Old 05-13-2013, 05:54 PM   #28723
ImaPoser
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Well, I tried to buy a helmet today.
Made a lunch stop at performance bike on the other side of town. As expected, after trying on many helmets, the only one I felt I would actually wear was the most expensive one they had, $189. Then I looked at some new shoes, and bibs, and shirts, and..... Next thing I know, I've got $600 worth of stuff in my hands.
Then my damned phone rang, and I had to get back to work ASAP, so I put it all down and ran out the door. I think I'll just stick the chainlove tracker on the home computer and see if something turns up in the next few days. I don't think my schedule has a spot for me to even consider a ride till Thursday.
well, I'm still riding helmet less.
After my unsuccessful trip to performance bike last week, I've been watching all the online deal places, but got myself locked up on what helmet I should buy without being able to try them on. I did snag a pair of bibs off chainlove. I've been wanting to try a pair of bibs instead of shorts, and since my dog ate a pair of my shorts, I figured why not.
Saturday, I had some time to kill, couldn't ride due to being on call, so decided I'd head to the LBS to see what helmets they carry, and pick up a few of the things on my list. I go in, a young kid comes up asks if he can help with anything, I tell him I'm just drooling over the high $$ bikes up front, but I'll be heading in back to try on some helmets and pick up some new cleats. He asks which cleats I need, and he'll go back and grab them. I tell him look delta reds, and he goes away. When I got to the back of the store, he comes up with the cleats and says last pair, and hands them to me. I notice they aren't looks, but chinese knockoffs. I ask if they stock the real ones, or if that's all they have. He goes in back, and the owner comes back out. He says - "Look discontinued making these, these are the only thing available. You have to upgrade to KEOs if you want look cleats now." Before I could even mention I had a pair of them in my hand at performance bike earlier this week, he decided to keep digging..."To be honest, you don't want them any way. Look is pretty low quality stuff. You should just go ahead and upgrade to speedplay, they're much better". I thanked him for his suggestion, but said it would be a waste to put such a high quality pedal on my low quality Look bike and turned around and walked out.
So, back over to performance today to pick up my cleats, and once again, try on helmets. All the Giro Atmos they had on clearance last week had been packed up and shipped back, and the only Giro they had out was the Ionos. I decided it really isn't a good fit, it is too round for my head. So, I spent the next half hour of lunch doing more internet research as to what helmet manufacturers are known for what head shape. Not nearly as easy to find the info on bicycle helmets as it is in motorcycle helmets. So, I'm suffering from internet information overload.


Quote:
Originally Posted by pierce View Post
I have a Specialized Max helmet I got a few years ago, XXL... fits me WAY better than most any other moderate priced helmets. In motorcycles, I wear an Arai Signet in XL, thats the long oval shape, as my crown is quite large front to rear.
I had forgot all about this post. I settled on the Signet line myself years and years ago, and have never bothered to try any other helmet. I'll try to make it to a shop that carries specialized and see if I can find one of these to try on. I'll keep on reading as to what other brands are known to be long oval.

Oh yeah, stupid thing to do - take old cleats off without paying attention to where they were on the shoe. I had a fairly painful ride tonight with many stops to reposition cleats until I was finally happy with where they are.
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Old 05-13-2013, 06:12 PM   #28724
Andrew
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I'm happy with my Bern helmet - best fitment I've ever experienced.

http://bernunlimited.com/shop/bike.html

Here's a link with reviews on helmets for large heads like mine (7 7/8)

http://www.bhsi.org/bighead.htm
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Old 05-13-2013, 06:40 PM   #28725
bogieboy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gummee! View Post
I have a BB-7 on the front of my mtn bike. Works very well. Lots of power. Lots of modulation.

Not *quite* as much of either as the hydro brakes I've ridden, but the BB-7s are MUCH easier to live with on a daily basis. IOW no brake bleeding!

M
yeah, you have the luxury of outboard as well as inboard pad adjustment......LOL that makes life easier....i couldnt afford BB7s when i got mine so i went with the 5..... more power than i will ever need, and very good modulation with the stock pads and rotors (mine came with the slightly newer avid hs1 rotors over the g2 cleansweep they used to come with) and have noticed no fade after repeated hard braking, long descents, etc....
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