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Old 07-03-2013, 05:46 AM   #29776
Gummee!
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Originally Posted by Aurelius View Post
Last night I successfully removed a few spacers from my steering stem. Just thought everyone would want to know.
If you're going to crow, at least get the terminology right: Last night I took out a couple of headset spacers.

Or more accurately: 'I swapped a few spacers from below my stem to above.' Since the steerer's cut at a certain height, if you remove a spacer you'll need to cut your steerer tube.

Some guy brought his new GT road bike in because the stem was crooked, the rear brake was 'loose' and there was a clunking noise when he was braking. l loosened up the 2 stem bolts, had him straighten the stem, then re-tightened. THEN noticed that the HS was loose (the clunking noise). Tightened up the 'star nut' assy inside the steerer tube, re-did the whole 'adjust the stem' thing, then showed him how the barrel adjusters work for the brakes.

Do people not have a basic clue about bikes? I know I used to look at it, try and figure it out, THEN if I couldn't get it or I effed it up, took it to the LBS. I didn't schlepp my bike to the LBS first.

Speaking of LBS... I seem to be the 'go to' shop for flat tires for a few miles around. I can't tell you how many tubes I change in a day. Really?! You don't know how to change a tube? WTF are you doing out riding?! What would happen if you weren't within spitting distance of an LBS?

M
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Old 07-03-2013, 05:48 AM   #29777
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Originally Posted by Gummee! View Post
What would happen if you weren't within spitting distance of an LBS?

M
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Old 07-03-2013, 06:00 AM   #29778
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gummee! View Post
If you're going to crow, at least get the terminology right: Last night I took out a couple of headset spacers.

Or more accurately: 'I swapped a few spacers from below my stem to above.' Since the steerer's cut at a certain height, if you remove a spacer you'll need to cut your steerer tube.

Some guy brought his new GT road bike in because the stem was crooked, the rear brake was 'loose' and there was a clunking noise when he was braking. l loosened up the 2 stem bolts, had him straighten the stem, then re-tightened. THEN noticed that the HS was loose (the clunking noise). Tightened up the 'star nut' assy inside the steerer tube, re-did the whole 'adjust the stem' thing, then showed him how the barrel adjusters work for the brakes.

Do people not have a basic clue about bikes? I know I used to look at it, try and figure it out, THEN if I couldn't get it or I effed it up, took it to the LBS. I didn't schlepp my bike to the LBS first.

Speaking of LBS... I seem to be the 'go to' shop for flat tires for a few miles around. I can't tell you how many tubes I change in a day. Really?! You don't know how to change a tube? WTF are you doing out riding?! What would happen if you weren't within spitting distance of an LBS?

M
Funny you should mention that...had a conversation with a lady the other day at the end of my ride. She said she 'loved' to cycle but she didn't do much because she was scared of getting a puncture and dealing with it Really, you 'love' it that much you let that stop you. I was shaking my head inside...
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Old 07-03-2013, 06:05 AM   #29779
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this thread is killing me, I am going bike shopping Friday. I was going to convert my MTB to be more road friendly. Its currently a 1x9 and has lockouts on the fork and shock so it isnt too bad pounding some pavement.. Its a 4" travel bike built for XC and 24hr races so its fairly comfy, just a bit heavy for big miles(26.5lbs). I am one of those wacky MTB guys that loves to climb so im used to being miserable. All I really need is some different tires and a big chain ring but I have always wanted a true road bike.

Im just perplexed at the moment, do I go full roadie, really eyeing a Carbon Synapse, or pull the trigger on a CX bike. The roads in my area tend to have slips, big broken sections, gravel patches, lots of tar & chip, pot holes strewn about, cold patches, frost heaves, etc., so I am kinda of leaning towards a CX. I live in the mountain state(hills) my driveway has more elevation change than some of the Strava rides posted on hereso I will probably need a compact set up, 36/48ish. I really dont think I have the legs to push a 50+ ring.

Local dealers have the normal big brands, CDale, Trek, Giant, Fuji, Specialized, one shop lists gunnar another lists Orbea but I am betting they are order only. One shop an hour away lists Masi. Would probably go Cdale or Spec over trek or giant. I am also Odd I prefer Sram over Shimano, at least on MTB groups. I have never has issues with shimano, typically my hardtails ran a mix of XT/XTR. My full squish runs sram X9.

Im not going to be a racer, i dont want to fall into the trap of being a weight weeny and gram counter. Im not shaving my legs, my helmet will have a visor and i will use my camel back. 99% of the time i will be solo. I want somthing that is comfortable and I can work up to doing a century on.

any advice would be greatly appreciated.

My goal is to bust ass and get in good enough shape to do a small duathlon on Sept. 22. its 5k run/20k bike/5k run.
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Old 07-03-2013, 06:14 AM   #29780
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gummee! View Post
Really?! You don't know how to change a tube? WTF are you doing out riding?! What would happen if you weren't within spitting distance of an LBS?

M
it really seems people in general are ignorant about the mechanics of everytyhing these days. My sister has a freaking PHd but cant check the air in her car tires. I cant even count the number of times I was patching or swapping tubes on a trail and hikers stop and look completely perplexed, they have that panic in their eyes like you need airlifted out. Hell if its broken too bad, I will just walk out the same way they walked in

I used to ride MTB's with a few clydesdales, do that for a few years and your trail wrenching skilles get honed fairly quick.
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Old 07-03-2013, 06:22 AM   #29781
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mercury264 View Post
Funny you should mention that...had a conversation with a lady the other day at the end of my ride. She said she 'loved' to cycle but she didn't do much because she was scared of getting a puncture and dealing with it Really, you 'love' it that much you let that stop you. I was shaking my head inside...
I may have mentioned it before, but the wife of one of my riding buddies does these long distance races, like the Horrible Hundred. She's been doing it for decades. I once asked her how likely it was that she'd have to fix a flat during one of those races. She said, "I've never fixed a flat in my life. I just wait for a man to come along and do it for me."
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Old 07-03-2013, 06:28 AM   #29782
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rider_WV View Post
this thread is killing me, I am going bike shopping Friday. I was going to convert my MTB to be more road friendly. Its currently a 1x9 and has lockouts on the fork and shock so it isnt too bad pounding some pavement.. Its a 4" travel bike built for XC and 24hr races so its fairly comfy, just a bit heavy for big miles(26.5lbs). I am one of those wacky MTB guys that loves to climb so im used to being miserable. All I really need is some different tires and a big chain ring but I have always wanted a true road bike.

Im just perplexed at the moment, do I go full roadie, really eyeing a Carbon Synapse, or pull the trigger on a CX bike. The roads in my area tend to have slips, big broken sections, gravel patches, lots of tar & chip, pot holes strewn about, cold patches, frost heaves, etc., so I am kinda of leaning towards a CX. I live in the mountain state(hills) my driveway has more elevation change than some of the Strava rides posted on hereso I will probably need a compact set up, 36/48ish. I really dont think I have the legs to push a 50+ ring.

Local dealers have the normal big brands, CDale, Trek, Giant, Fuji, Specialized, one shop lists gunnar another lists Orbea but I am betting they are order only. One shop an hour away lists Masi. Would probably go Cdale or Spec over trek or giant. I am also Odd I prefer Sram over Shimano, at least on MTB groups. I have never has issues with shimano, typically my hardtails ran a mix of XT/XTR. My full squish runs sram X9.

Im not going to be a racer, i dont want to fall into the trap of being a weight weeny and gram counter. Im not shaving my legs, my helmet will have a visor and i will use my camel back. 99% of the time i will be solo. I want somthing that is comfortable and I can work up to doing a century on.

any advice would be greatly appreciated.

My goal is to bust ass and get in good enough shape to do a small duathlon on Sept. 22. its 5k run/20k bike/5k run.
Cannondale CAADX FTW!
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Old 07-03-2013, 06:34 AM   #29783
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rider_WV View Post
Im just perplexed at the moment, do I go full roadie, really eyeing a Carbon Synapse, or pull the trigger on a CX bike. The roads in my area tend to have slips, big broken sections, gravel patches, lots of tar & chip, pot holes strewn about, cold patches, frost heaves, etc., so I am kinda of leaning towards a CX. I live in the mountain state(hills) my driveway has more elevation change than some of the Strava rides posted on hereso I will probably need a compact set up, 36/48ish. I really dont think I have the legs to push a 50+ ring.

Local dealers have the normal big brands, CDale, Trek, Giant, Fuji, Specialized, one shop lists gunnar another lists Orbea but I am betting they are order only. One shop an hour away lists Masi. Would probably go Cdale or Spec over trek or giant. I am also Odd I prefer Sram over Shimano, at least on MTB groups. I have never has issues with shimano, typically my hardtails ran a mix of XT/XTR. My full squish runs sram X9.

Im not going to be a racer, i dont want to fall into the trap of being a weight weeny and gram counter. Im not shaving my legs, my helmet will have a visor and i will use my camel back. 99% of the time i will be solo. I want somthing that is comfortable and I can work up to doing a century on.

any advice would be greatly appreciated.
A CX bike, all the way.

Where you live, you've got miles and miles of killer, fire roads. You can always swap on more roadie tires, if you want. Though, you'll lose comfort and versatility. I'd look for something in steel, so that it rides nice. Also, look for a mid-cage rear derailleur, which allows up to 32T/36T low gear cassette. The crankset you mention is actually a CX setup. Compact cranksets are 50/34, which has a smaller small ring. I'd, also, investigate disc brakes, as you've got some seriously steep mountains. Be sure the frame will accept at least a 42mm tire, so you run larger volume, gravel tires.

Look into Salsa's Vaya and Fargo, Surly's Cross-Check, Gunnar Fastlane, Specialized has a steel, disc-brake Tricross (I think it's too expensive for what it is.), Jamis Bosanova, Raligh Roper, and many others out there. If you're not one to move through bikes, I'd build up a Gunnar with SRAM.

I have SRAM's Apex stuff on two bikes and it shifts great. No need to spend big money on the nicer stuff. I'm partial to eyelets, for versatility, too.

This site has a lot of articles pertaining to gravel stuff.
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Old 07-03-2013, 06:40 AM   #29784
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rider_WV View Post
this thread is killing me, I am going bike shopping Friday. I was going to convert my MTB to be more road friendly. Its currently a 1x9 and has lockouts on the fork and shock so it isnt too bad pounding some pavement.. Its a 4" travel bike built for XC and 24hr races so its fairly comfy, just a bit heavy for big miles(26.5lbs). I am one of those wacky MTB guys that loves to climb so im used to being miserable. All I really need is some different tires and a big chain ring but I have always wanted a true road bike.

Im just perplexed at the moment, do I go full roadie, really eyeing a Carbon Synapse, or pull the trigger on a CX bike. The roads in my area tend to have slips, big broken sections, gravel patches, lots of tar & chip, pot holes strewn about, cold patches, frost heaves, etc., so I am kinda of leaning towards a CX. I live in the mountain state(hills) my driveway has more elevation change than some of the Strava rides posted on hereso I will probably need a compact set up, 36/48ish. I really dont think I have the legs to push a 50+ ring.

Local dealers have the normal big brands, CDale, Trek, Giant, Fuji, Specialized, one shop lists gunnar another lists Orbea but I am betting they are order only. One shop an hour away lists Masi. Would probably go Cdale or Spec over trek or giant. I am also Odd I prefer Sram over Shimano, at least on MTB groups. I have never has issues with shimano, typically my hardtails ran a mix of XT/XTR. My full squish runs sram X9.

Im not going to be a racer, i dont want to fall into the trap of being a weight weeny and gram counter. Im not shaving my legs, my helmet will have a visor and i will use my camel back. 99% of the time i will be solo. I want somthing that is comfortable and I can work up to doing a century on.

any advice would be greatly appreciated.

My goal is to bust ass and get in good enough shape to do a small duathlon on Sept. 22. its 5k run/20k bike/5k run.
Having just ridden in your neck of the woods (Morgantown West by doG anyway) I can tell you that either a cross bike or a HT 29er with skinny tires on it are your two best bets. Check pics of the Hilly Billy Roubaix race from the 22nd for ideas.

I'd stay away from a 'pure' road bike.

With a cross bike you can stick knobbies or semi-slicks on and go bust around on the gravel roads or get some road tires and go fast. VERY versatile bikes. AMHIK

If you'd rather not go with drop bars, the 29er HT uses the same size wheels as the road/cross bikes but you won't have as many hand positions for the longer rides.

HTH

M
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Old 07-03-2013, 06:51 AM   #29785
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There isn't an APP for this.
We noticed this same complete lack of mechanical awareness with BMW motorcycle owners back in 1984 when BMW brought the K-models into America. George Orwell probably didn't have anything to do with it.
I'm blaming Atari.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Gummee! View Post
If you're going to crow, at least get the terminology right: Last night I took out a couple of headset spacers.

Or more accurately: 'I swapped a few spacers from below my stem to above.' Since the steerer's cut at a certain height, if you remove a spacer you'll need to cut your steerer tube.

Some guy brought his new GT road bike in because the stem was crooked, the rear brake was 'loose' and there was a clunking noise when he was braking. l loosened up the 2 stem bolts, had him straighten the stem, then re-tightened. THEN noticed that the HS was loose (the clunking noise). Tightened up the 'star nut' assy inside the steerer tube, re-did the whole 'adjust the stem' thing, then showed him how the barrel adjusters work for the brakes.

Do people not have a basic clue about bikes? I know I used to look at it, try and figure it out, THEN if I couldn't get it or I effed it up, took it to the LBS. I didn't schlepp my bike to the LBS first.

Speaking of LBS... I seem to be the 'go to' shop for flat tires for a few miles around. I can't tell you how many tubes I change in a day. Really?! You don't know how to change a tube? WTF are you doing out riding?! What would happen if you weren't within spitting distance of an LBS?

M
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Old 07-03-2013, 06:53 AM   #29786
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Originally Posted by Ridge View Post
Cannondale CAADX FTW!

The owner of my LBS has one of those (I think that is what it is), the toolkit under the seat like doubles the weight of that bike, it weights absolutely nothing. I think my double walled wheels alone weight more than his bike.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Rider_WV View Post
it really seems people in general are ignorant about the mechanics of everytyhing these days. My sister has a freaking PHd but cant check the air in her car tires.
This is absolutely true. A couple of the kids I go to school with came by while I was helping my neighbor fix his rear brake lines. The very idea that we pulled the bed off of the truck and started removing the hardlines absolutely astounded them.....of course we were just happy there were more hands to get the bed back on.....getting the bed of a Sierra with two dudes and a cargo strap is NOT a lot of fun.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Rider_WV View Post
I cant even count the number of times I was patching or swapping tubes on a trail and hikers stop and look completely perplexed, they have that panic in their eyes like you need airlifted out. Hell if its broken too bad, I will just walk out the same way they walked in

I used to ride MTB's with a few clydesdales, do that for a few years and your trail wrenching skilles get honed fairly quick.
Did these guys not have bikes when they grew up? I could patch a tube on a bike by like 6-7 and was doing in on dirtbikes complete with wheel removal by ten. I wonder how many of the walkers are running tubeless? A lot of moutain bike guys swear up and down you won't get flats running tubeless......which I've ruined MORE than enough tubless motorcycle tires to know is complete bullshit, forget the gunk or tear a sidewall and you are walking. I'll stick with my tubes for that reason (at 210 before clothes and gear and tools I'm pretty sure I fall into the clydedale category).

Pretty sure I can still true a rim as long as its not too far out of whack.
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Old 07-03-2013, 07:33 AM   #29787
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ducnut View Post
A CX bike, all the way.

Where you live, you've got miles and miles of killer, fire roads. You can always swap on more roadie tires, if you want. Though, you'll lose comfort and versatility. I'd look for something in steel, so that it rides nice. Also, look for a mid-cage rear derailleur, which allows up to 32T/36T low gear cassette. The crankset you mention is actually a CX setup. Compact cranksets are 50/34, which has a smaller small ring. I'd, also, investigate disc brakes, as you've got some seriously steep mountains. Be sure the frame will accept at least a 42mm tire, so you run larger volume, gravel tires.

Look into Salsa's Vaya and Fargo, Surly's Cross-Check, Gunnar Fastlane, Specialized has a steel, disc-brake Tricross (I think it's too expensive for what it is.), Jamis Bosanova, Raligh Roper, and many others out there. If you're not one to move through bikes, I'd build up a Gunnar with SRAM.

I have SRAM's Apex stuff on two bikes and it shifts great. No need to spend big money on the nicer stuff. I'm partial to eyelets, for versatility, too.

This site has a lot of articles pertaining to gravel stuff.

thanks for the great info guys. CX it is then. I am not one of those guys that builds a new bike every year. Shoot my MTB is a 26er so that shows you how old it is, i built it in 08. Salsa El Santo. I hadnt really considered Discs on a skinny tire bike but I do LOVE LOVE LOVE my hydro Discs (Hope Mono Mini). I will definitely look into the Salsa CX bikes. I really wanted to buy local this time though. I like the Surly bikes as well, I have lusted after a long haul trucker for years but always wussed out, I figured I could never spend the time to justify a proper touring bike.

at least my camel back wont look as out of place on a CX bike.

Gummee I was really leaning towards a drop bar for just what you mentioned, more hand postions on long rides. I have some wrist issues from some MTB get offs so more postions helps reduce the fatigue on long days.

anyone rocking a Carbon CX bike, that SuperX Carbon CDale is sexy I kind of have a carbon fiber fetish I know steel will ride better. I had been eyeballing the tricross as well but I also think its overpriced. Shoot I have always felt Specialized bikes in general are overpriced. Im guessing my options will be very limited at my 2-3 LBS.

Lots of great cycling in WV. I have MTB'ed all over the state, great trails all across this state. Grew up riding and racing BMX, moved on to MTB's. My heart has always been in the dirt.
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Old 07-03-2013, 07:46 AM   #29788
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gummee! View Post
If you're going to crow, at least get the terminology right: Last night I took out a couple of headset spacers.

Or more accurately: 'I swapped a few spacers from below my stem to above.' Since the steerer's cut at a certain height, if you remove a spacer you'll need to cut your steerer tube.
I know, I was being facitious. Aside from this, I've swapped out cassettes, removed and reinstalled cranksets, removed and reinstalled a rear shock, and a bunch of other basic maintenance stuff. This is certainly turning out to be much easier than working on my motorcycles.
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Old 07-03-2013, 07:50 AM   #29789
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Originally Posted by Rider_WV View Post
thanks for the great info guys. CX it is then. I am not one of those guys that builds a new bike every year. Shoot my MTB is a 26er so that shows you how old it is, i built it in 08. Salsa El Santo. I hadnt really considered Discs on a skinny tire bike but I do LOVE LOVE LOVE my hydro Discs (Hope Mono Mini). I will definitely look into the Salsa CX bikes. I really wanted to buy local this time though. I like the Surly bikes as well, I have lusted after a long haul trucker for years but always wussed out, I figured I could never spend the time to justify a proper touring bike.

at least my camel back wont look as out of place on a CX bike.

Gummee I was really leaning towards a drop bar for just what you mentioned, more hand postions on long rides. I have some wrist issues from some MTB get offs so more postions helps reduce the fatigue on long days.

anyone rocking a Carbon CX bike, that SuperX Carbon CDale is sexy I kind of have a carbon fiber fetish I know steel will ride better. I had been eyeballing the tricross as well but I also think its overpriced. Shoot I have always felt Specialized bikes in general are overpriced. Im guessing my options will be very limited at my 2-3 LBS.

Lots of great cycling in WV. I have MTB'ed all over the state, great trails all across this state. Grew up riding and racing BMX, moved on to MTB's. My heart has always been in the dirt.
Your local bike shop of choice should be able to order you a Salsa or Surly (frameset or full build) via QBP. FWIW, I thought the Salsa Vaya rode really well. I also like the looks of the Salsa Warbird.
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Old 07-03-2013, 07:56 AM   #29790
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheNedster View Post
Your local bike shop of choice should be able to order you a Salsa or Surly (frameset or full build) via QBP. FWIW, I thought the Salsa Vaya rode really well. I also like the looks of the Salsa Warbird.

Salsa Fargo Ti or the Warbird Ti----I think Im in lust Not sure I should drop that kinda $ on a new bike. maybe if I sell a dirtbike first, hmmmmm
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