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Old 11-25-2007, 10:43 AM   #7651
Gummee!
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So we'd sold one of those CC wheelsets to a dood that was known as being VERY anal...

Calls up and asks if there's anyone on staff that can true his 'special' wheels.

Sure. No problem. Bring em in. Me thinking: wheels are wheels are wheels. No worries.

Him: hovering mother hen: you SURE you can true these?

Me: no problem. Be done in a jiffy!

Trued em up good too! The big difference between the CC wheels and the rest of em is where the nipples are. That's pretty much it.

M
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Old 11-25-2007, 11:06 AM   #7652
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gummee!
So we'd sold one of those CC wheelsets to a dood that was known as being VERY anal...

Calls up and asks if there's anyone on staff that can true his 'special' wheels.

Sure. No problem. Bring em in. Me thinking: wheels are wheels are wheels. No worries.

Him: hovering mother hen: you SURE you can true these?

Me: no problem. Be done in a jiffy!

Trued em up good too! The big difference between the CC wheels and the rest of em is where the nipples are. That's pretty much it.

M
My problem is there's an expansion collar on one side of the front hub, but no matter where I adjust the 1.5 mm screw, it's either too tight on the bearings, or the endcaps move loosely on the axle.

What gives? Doesn't make sense to have the encaps loose so they can spin off a wheel (not on the bike of course), and the adjusting collar should be able to hold all by tension without squeezing the bearings...?
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Old 11-25-2007, 11:19 AM   #7653
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Perry
My problem is there's an expansion collar on one side of the front hub, but no matter where I adjust the 1.5 mm screw, it's either too tight on the bearings, or the endcaps move loosely on the axle.

What gives? Doesn't make sense to have the encaps loose so they can spin off a wheel (not on the bike of course), and the adjusting collar should be able to hold all by tension without squeezing the bearings...?
but chances are, when you put tension on the QR it'll take out lots of that slop.

Without looking and playing with it, I'm gonna

M
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Old 11-25-2007, 11:30 AM   #7654
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gummee!
but chances are, when you put tension on the QR it'll take out lots of that slop.

Without looking and playing with it, I'm gonna

M
Yeah, I usually take that into account before tightening endcaps. It's not the slop that bothers me, it's the endcaps, no matter how I do it, one is always loose, or it won't roll smooth if I tighten them or the constrictor ring.?

Been playin with it all day.
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Old 11-25-2007, 11:33 AM   #7655
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Perry
Yeah, I usually take that into account before tightening endcaps. It's not the slop that bothers me, it's the endcaps, no matter how I do it, one is always loose, or it won't roll smooth if I tighten them or the constrictor ring.?

Been playin with it all day.
Got pics?

Plans?



M
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Old 11-25-2007, 11:37 AM   #7656
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gummee!
Got pics?

Plans?



M
http://www.canecreek.com/images/stor...structions.pdf

no pics/no time today to download/etc.
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Old 11-25-2007, 11:43 AM   #7657
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Quote:
Front hub adjustment/ bearing replacement
The Cane Creek Crono front wheels use a patented preload mechanism. Also sealed cartridge bearings are used, which should provide long, maintenance-free life. Eventually,
the bearings may need replacing due to wear or contamination. We recommend using replacement bearings from Cane Creek, which have an optimum seal configuration,
grease type and grease quantity. If these are not available, standard replacement cartridge bearings can be substituted. Type 6900-2RS (10 x 22) bearings are used on the
road hub, and type 6903-2RS (17 x 30) bearings are used in the mountain hub. Please familiarize yourself with the illustration of the front mtn. and road hubs. The mtn. hubs
axle end caps thread to the internal portion of the axle. To replace the bearings, first remove the quick release skewer and hub end caps. Using (2) 5 mm hex keys (one on
each end), loosen one end cap (turn each counterclockwise as facing).
Note: make sure not to interface the 5 mm hex key fitting in the road
axle. After removing the end cap, slide the axle out of the hub (the
road hub axle/bearing will have to be removed together). Using a
punch or drift, tap the each bearing out of the hub. Press each new
bearing in place, using an old bearing as a drift (be careful not to press
both bearings into the hub shell). Always apply pressure to the outside
race of the bearing while pressing it in, never press on the inner race
alone. Once the bearings are positioned, slide the axle with end cap in
place. Thread the remaining end cap to the axle and torque to 25 in/lb.
The preload mechanism consist of an axle end cap, an adjusting ring
and an adjusting collar. Using a 1.5 mm hex key, tighten the adjusting
collar set screw (clockwise) until all free play is removed from the front
hub (do not overtighten).
Reinstall the hubcaps and quick release. We
recommend having the bearing replacement procedure carried out by
a professional bicycle mechanic
From the web page. You tightening BOTH of em or just one?

Sounds like you set one, tighten the end cap, and then use the set screw. Now, if I were a bettin man, I'd hafta say you've got something cockeyed in there if yer following the destructions and still having issues.

HTH

M
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Old 11-25-2007, 12:26 PM   #7658
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gummee!
From the web page. You tightening BOTH of em or just one?

Sounds like you set one, tighten the end cap, and then use the set screw. Now, if I were a bettin man, I'd hafta say you've got something cockeyed in there if yer following the destructions and still having issues.

HTH


Thanks Mike -

I tried that but it doesn't hold the endcap tight enough to stay on or rotate (the site info is a little confusing).

Anyway I might have just figured it out. The adjusting ring (made of some type of die soft cast metal) was stretched into an open postion, the screw was doing nothing when adjusted.

I simply squeezed the "C" ring shaped collar back to an "O", then put them all back in their place. I tightend both endcaps, but left the restaining ring loose. Rolls like a charm, nothing's coming off, no play....


This should work. From the directions it shouldn't but it is.
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Old 11-25-2007, 12:31 PM   #7659
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Perry
This should work. From the directions it shouldn't but it is.


Keep an eye on it tho. Ya just never know...

M
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Old 11-25-2007, 12:38 PM   #7660
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gummee!


Keep an eye on it tho. Ya just never know...

M
Even with this retainer clip fixed I still can't figure out why they designed this as the "tightener"?

All it did was push the cone, it never could stop the endcap from loosening or coming off.
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Old 11-25-2007, 01:32 PM   #7661
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I was doing the Sunday Craigslist hunt and came across this sweet looking bike. I think that rear hub alone is close to a grand. I did get to ride this hub once and thought it had potential for a city bike.


http://austin.craigslist.org/bik/488206668.html
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Old 11-25-2007, 05:21 PM   #7662
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GUMMEE - Have a safe trip and enjoy the new location!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Is the ankle still really bad, or is it getting better each week?
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Old 11-25-2007, 05:32 PM   #7663
Gummee!
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flip18436572
GUMMEE - Have a safe trip and enjoy the new location!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Is the ankle still really bad, or is it getting better each week?
Most of the pain's gone, but the instep towards the inside of my ankle still bugs me. I tried to r*n on the treadmill at Stick Me's gym, but the outside of my ankle bone was really achy. Haven't tried lately.

:crossingfingers I can run here 'soon.'

Thanks for the good thoughts. With an older kitty and a 2mo old puppy, this move's gonna be 'interesting.'

M
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Old 11-25-2007, 05:54 PM   #7664
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gummee!
Most of the pain's gone, but the instep towards the inside of my ankle still bugs me. I tried to r*n on the treadmill at Stick Me's gym, but the outside of my ankle bone was really achy. Haven't tried lately.

:crossingfingers I can run here 'soon.'

Thanks for the good thoughts. With an older kitty and a 2mo old puppy, this move's gonna be 'interesting.'

M
I think the older kitty shouldn't be a problem, but the young puppy could be a handful!!!!
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Old 11-26-2007, 07:39 AM   #7665
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Cross post, but hey! FQ ain't seein much traffic...



Going D/A 9sp. All I'm missing is a right shifter. (and longer crankarms if I'm inclined to fit this to her right)



M
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