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Old 07-23-2009, 09:46 AM   #11731
Askel
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wxwax
I've never adjusted a derailleur before. But I keep hearing a rubbing noise near the chainring. Is this something I should get instruction on before trying, or would YouTube instructional videos be sufficient? My bike is a stick cheapola K2 Zed.

It's not too hard, watch somebody who knows what they're doing first. Keep in mind you can seriously wreck stuff with the limit adjusters on the rear derailleur if you try hard enough.
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Old 07-23-2009, 09:47 AM   #11732
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wxwax
I've never adjusted a derailleur before. But I keep hearing a rubbing noise near the chainring. Is this something I should get instruction on before trying, or would YouTube instructional videos be sufficient? My bike is a stick cheapola K2 Zed.
The Park Tool site has good instructions for this.
Easier than syncing the TB's on a GS.

Less same old surging issues though.
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Old 07-23-2009, 10:30 AM   #11733
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wxwax
I've never adjusted a derailleur before. But I keep hearing a rubbing noise near the chainring. Is this something I should get instruction on before trying, or would YouTube instructional videos be sufficient? My bike is a stick cheapola K2 Zed.
MOST have a slotted or Allen adjuster screw to fine tune the derailleur’s.

If you have one just flip the bike over on a softish surface, peddle to see which way it's off and adjust accordingly. (go slow and know where zero/start point is)

PS Some bikes don't like big ring/small ring combs so you may not be able to adjust that bit of rubbing out. (Which I why I recommend that you know where zero is)

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Old 07-23-2009, 11:02 AM   #11734
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Thanks.
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Old 07-23-2009, 04:04 PM   #11735
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Are you guys using strong gloves? I fell at less than 10 mph and the MX gloves I was using instantly wore through the side of the knuckles. Trying to find some lightweight kevlar enforced. My gloves always seem to bust out on the sides of the fingers.

Most gloves seem like a joke because they put thick material along the top but paper thin along the sides. If you drag your hand perpendicular to a surface the thick material rolls away and the paper thin becomes the contact area.


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Old 07-23-2009, 05:34 PM   #11736
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I used my motocross gloves for winter riding, but i am using some cheapo nashbar fingerless right now. I know I will regret it if I crash on the road, but that is what I am using.
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Old 07-23-2009, 06:09 PM   #11737
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wxwax
I've never adjusted a derailleur before. But I keep hearing a rubbing noise near the chainring. Is this something I should get instruction on before trying, or would YouTube instructional videos be sufficient? My bike is a stick cheapola K2 Zed.
When exactly is it rubbing?

What gear combos?

What circumstances?



M
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Old 07-23-2009, 06:28 PM   #11738
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flip18436572
I used my motocross gloves for winter riding, but i am using some cheapo nashbar fingerless right now. I know I will regret it if I crash on the road, but that is what I am using.
I didn't slide even 2ft and the MX glove proved worthless on the street. I'm wearing some lightweight street gloves until I figure this out. I think even a leather golf glove would have more abrasion resist than the lycra side panels on most cycling gloves.
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Old 07-23-2009, 06:43 PM   #11739
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gummee!
When exactly is it rubbing?

What gear combos?

What circumstances?



M
It's intermittent but it seems to be rubbing somewhere up front. I can see shiny areas on the metal there, areas which should be dirty, so I assume it's rubbing there. But to be honest, when I hear the noise and look down, I cannot see where the chain is making contact. Happens on the flat, uphill and downhill. Stops when I stop pedaling.

I notice it mainly in 2/7 and 2/8. (Is that how one expresses it?)

Since I cleaned the chain last night, it's sometimes reluctant to shift up. It won't take until I go up a second gear, then it rattles through both. For example, I'm in 2/4 and try to go to 2/5, it won't budge until I shift to 2/6.

It's also reluctant to shift down sometimes, when trying to go from 2/8 to 1/8. Just makes a rattling noise and I finally have to push it back up to 2/8.

Any of this making sense? I'm a neophyte, been bicycling almost every day for the last 6 weeks, and I know very little about bicycle nomenclature.
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Old 07-23-2009, 07:09 PM   #11740
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wxwax
It's intermittent but it seems to be rubbing somewhere up front. I can see shiny areas on the metal there, areas which should be dirty, so I assume it's rubbing there. But to be honest, when I hear the noise and look down, I cannot see where the chain is making contact. Happens on the flat, uphill and downhill. Stops when I stop pedaling.

I notice it mainly in 2/7 and 2/8. (Is that how one expresses it?)

Since I cleaned the chain last night, it's sometimes reluctant to shift up. It won't take until I go up a second gear, then it rattles through both. For example, I'm in 2/4 and try to go to 2/5, it won't budge until I shift to 2/6.

It's also reluctant to shift down sometimes, when trying to go from 2/8 to 1/8. Just makes a rattling noise and I finally have to push it back up to 2/8.

Any of this making sense? I'm a neophyte, been bicycling almost every day for the last 6 weeks, and I know very little about bicycle nomenclature.
I'm guessing here, but yer riding an 8sp rear cassette with a triple front?

If so, then ya need to learn shiftin. Once you get about mid-way thru the cassette in any ring, shift up to the next bigger ring. That'll keep the rubbing to a minimum AFA sheer mechanical stuff goes. Don't help with stuff that's outta alignment/adjustment tho.

Some of it DOES sound like yer front der. is outta adjustment. Sounds like the cable's too tight, but without looking at it

HTH

M
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Old 07-23-2009, 09:05 PM   #11741
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gummee!
I'm guessing here, but yer riding an 8sp rear cassette with a triple front?

If so, then ya need to learn shiftin. Once you get about mid-way thru the cassette in any ring, shift up to the next bigger ring. That'll keep the rubbing to a minimum AFA sheer mechanical stuff goes. Don't help with stuff that's outta alignment/adjustment tho.

Some of it DOES sound like yer front der. is outta adjustment. Sounds like the cable's too tight, but without looking at it

HTH

M
Yes, 8x3.

So if I'm in 5 on the middle ring, instead of shifting to 6, I should instead switch to the big ring? I accept that what you say is true, but why have the other gears if they're not to be used?

I'll give it a try tomorrow. Thanks for the advice.
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Old 07-23-2009, 09:10 PM   #11742
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wxwax
Yes, 8x3.

So if I'm in 5 on the middle ring, instead of shifting to 6, I should instead switch to the big ring? I accept that what you say is true, but why have the other gears if they're not to be used?

I'll give it a try tomorrow. Thanks for the advice.
If you look at the gear progression charts for yer gearing, you'll see that there's overlap in several spots.

Basically, ya gotta learn where the shift points are, then use em to yer advantage.

Lots of times, ya upshift to the big ring and downshift a pair of cogs in the back to get that first small step so yer not gettin a HUGE jump in gear inches.

I hadta learn this the hard way. LOTS of years ago

M
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Old 07-23-2009, 09:42 PM   #11743
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on the 15 (3x5) and 18 (3x6) speeds that I'm used to, the middle chainring was good for all 5 or 6 rear gears. on classic 10 speeds (2x5), you never used both small or both big gears (eg, 1-5(6) and 2-1) as the chain would be at too extreme of an angle, plus you'd be at one extreme or the other of the chain tension idler pulley. this was even more true of triple-rings, where the big and small chain rings were even farther apart, and the ratios are likely more extreme.

now, if you're scraping in the middle ring, chances are, its the chain hitting the side of the front derailleur cage. on old fashion friction shifters, you'd just tweak the front shift lever a bit to stop it, and the only adjustments were the stops at the far ends. with a ratchet shifter, its a little trickier to adjust, and I'm not going to try and explain, as someone said, there are various guides online to adjusting them (I bet Harris Cyclery has something well written from Sheldon Brown's archives, although he tended to mostly document vintage gear).

edit: hah, yup, he sure does! http://www.sheldonbrown.com/derailer-adjustment.html
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Old 07-23-2009, 09:51 PM   #11744
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If no one has messed with your hi/low limit screws and you rear deraileurs bracket hasn't gotten bent, it is most likely the cable tightness. Have a friend hold the bike up by the seat and you play with the adjustment knobs for cable tightness on whatever end you're having a problem with, and rotate the petals and shift through the gears, until it works. Trial and error.

BTW, the bike should be able to shift through all the gears. Set it up using starting from the middle front. In real life there is no need for the bike to do it, but nevertheless it should be able to.
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Old 07-23-2009, 10:02 PM   #11745
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Thanks guys, great stuff.
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