ADVrider

Go Back   ADVrider > Bikes > Road warriors
User Name
Password
Register Inmates Photos Site Rules Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
Old 05-21-2009, 05:46 PM   #1666
Chuckracer
Jerkus Maximus
 
Chuckracer's Avatar
 
Joined: Aug 2007
Location: Lowville, NY
Oddometer: 7,608
I had my shock off this morning for a cleaning and to get some grease in the pivots and took the spring off. It measures 214mm, so I put it back on preloaded to 205, then I added half a turn on a hunch (1mm difference).

Here was my settings today:

Front down 10mm, preload 5 turns (Gonna change that to 4), compression 20 from full in, rebound 12 from full in (I like a bit more rebound than most folks).

Rear preload 10mm, high speed compression 2 turns out, low speed 10 turns out, rebound 12.

I rode a tight, twisty point and shoot road today for a couple hours and the bike worked great! I was riding hard, braking hard and deep, sliding the rear on occasion (that was more the rebound then me being some sort of star) and still have an inch of travel left in the forks, which is why I'm gonna start backing down the front preload. The bike worked really, really well. It never once interfered with my concentration and fun, never took my attention from the task at hand with unruly behavior. It didn't do anything to draw attention to itself no matter how hard I flogged it. I did wheelie over couple hills coming out of corners and set the front down a little crossed up...it didn't like that and took a few seconds to settle down again. Maybe there's something to that steering damper talk after all!

I need to get this thing on a racetrack.
__________________
2005.5 KTM 950 Adventure
Chuckracer is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 05-21-2009, 07:21 PM   #1667
doctor_big
It hurts when I fall down
 
Joined: Oct 2007
Location: Toronto, Canada
Oddometer: 695
Quote:
Originally Posted by Chuckracer
I need to get this thing on a racetrack.
Damn straight! You'll surprise yourself and some of the hotshots out there. It's fun to blunder past the hunchy-bikes, all upright and off-line. Slam some sticky tires on there, stiffen everything up a few clicks and have fun. I can pretty much guarantee you'll be the only 950SM out there, and everyone's gonna wonder how you make that dirt bike move so fast.

Jason
doctor_big is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-21-2009, 07:44 PM   #1668
Chuckracer
Jerkus Maximus
 
Chuckracer's Avatar
 
Joined: Aug 2007
Location: Lowville, NY
Oddometer: 7,608
I come from a hunchy-bike (great term!) background - ten years of CCS Southwest Roadracing with a few class championships along the way and a whole string of alphabet bikes, and I am now riding my favorite, and new favorite, roads way faster, safer, in more control all the while leaving a wider margin than I was on my last bike, a Ducati 749.

Street riding requires more reaction than planning, and the "lead with your shoulder" GP style just doesn't work as well as the "shove the bike under you and wack it" school of point and shoot on the road.

I cannot believe more people don't ride these things! What you described at the racetrack sounds like blast!! Yep...gotta make that happen somehow...thanks for the impetus!
__________________
2005.5 KTM 950 Adventure
Chuckracer is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 05-21-2009, 09:42 PM   #1669
iammemares
Gnarly Adventurer
 
Joined: Apr 2009
Oddometer: 318
Chuckracer

Good info on the setup.

BTW, after my question on SAG the other day, I set my static to 9 mm in the rear and 4 turns in the front. With rider SAG was 59 rear and 50 front. 30 % would be 60 MM. I am intentionally running the front high/rear low to slow the steering a bit until I get used to the rather quick steering.

Why do you run higher tension?? What do you find the benefit of that to be on the road?

What tires and pressure you running and what is your rider weight?

I also finished up my de-can and SAS removal tonight. A bit more involved than I anticipated. I have not owned a bike with Carbs in 20 years. Was a bit surprised at the complexity of all that is going on inside the airbox. Does there tend to be ANY perfromance differences from these changes or just less problems?

Cant wait to get my seat back, I WANNA RIDE.
iammemares is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-22-2009, 06:28 AM   #1670
aeronaut
Gnarly Adventurer
 
Joined: Sep 2008
Location: Central MD, USA
Oddometer: 419
Quote:
Originally Posted by iammemares
... Does there tend to be ANY perfromance differences from these changes ...?
Nope. (Some will argue that de-can increases exhaust flow, thus more HP. If so, it's extremely small, and there's been no proof that I know of.)
aeronaut is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-22-2009, 07:27 AM   #1671
iammemares
Gnarly Adventurer
 
Joined: Apr 2009
Oddometer: 318
DE-CAN = canisterectomy. Sorry.

The cats have also previously been removed.


Could not believe all the crap I took off the bike for the removal of the canister and SAS. Last time I removed a canister on a BMW, took like 10 minutes, 2 or 3 pieces of tubing reouted and Viola.

Regarding the new carb vents, I plugged the two holes made by removal of the valve on the bottom of the airbox by through bolting them and then ran a single vent line off the existing T and through the single hole in the bottom of the airbox. The vent line only sticks out about 2" below the bottom of the airbox, hangs right above the starter.

I retained the clear tubing that is the airbox drain, but shortened it about 4 inches and rerouted it to be a bit more hidden. I also hose clamped it on the bottom of the airbox as I think Chuckracer had commented his had fallen off.

The 2 lines that come off the right side of the carbs for synching, I stuffed a small bolt in the end of each and then applied a zip tie around the hoses over the bolt to ensure they could not be ejected during a backfire. Also put a hose clamp around the cap on the back of the airbox (SAS Valve opening)

I was surprised at how much of a PITA it was to get the carbs and lines and all back into and through the bottom of the airbox.

Thanks to KTMTWINS for getting me the block off plates in 2 days. The Black ones look good!!!


And Lastly, how difficult is it to change the headlight surround. I have a Carbon Fiber surround and would also like to maybe purchase an Orange one and see how that looks on my SMR. I thought I read it was a bit involved?

WooHoo, get my seat back from RMC and I am ready for summer.
iammemares is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-22-2009, 09:00 AM   #1672
Chuckracer
Jerkus Maximus
 
Chuckracer's Avatar
 
Joined: Aug 2007
Location: Lowville, NY
Oddometer: 7,608
Quote:
Originally Posted by iammemares
Why do you run higher tension?? What do you find the benefit of that to be on the road?

What tires and pressure you running and what is your rider weight?
JustBob mentioned this a couple months ago, and it seems the initial travel on the shock is much softer then the fork (progressive rate spring on the shock perhaps?), so it would sink the rear when loaded in a corner and cause the bike to have to be steered all the way through. The half a turn on the shock preload fixed that, and now I'm gonna fine tune it with the front. Thing is, I'm running very little compression damping up front to mask the excessive high speed damping (it kinda works...a little...), so I need some spring to keep her head up under hard braking. It's a big compromise.

I'm 165 fully geared up running Pirelli Diablo Strada tires at 33f, 31r cold.
__________________
2005.5 KTM 950 Adventure
Chuckracer is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 05-22-2009, 10:31 AM   #1673
iammemares
Gnarly Adventurer
 
Joined: Apr 2009
Oddometer: 318
My rider weight is @ 170 geared up so the settings should be quite similar, though I believe your riding harder than I will. I still have the OE tires on my SMR, but have the stradas on my BMW. The Stradas seem to be quite good overall.

R U on a SM or SMR, front springs are different.
iammemares is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-22-2009, 10:31 AM   #1674
iammemares
Gnarly Adventurer
 
Joined: Apr 2009
Oddometer: 318
Sorry. Should have looked at your signature. You are on a SM.
iammemares is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-22-2009, 11:26 AM   #1675
Chuckracer
Jerkus Maximus
 
Chuckracer's Avatar
 
Joined: Aug 2007
Location: Lowville, NY
Oddometer: 7,608
OT: After a hard day riding (think slow group track day hard) I seem to have an oil pumping issue...





Hmmm...well, my left boot will never rust. Anybody else see this?
__________________
2005.5 KTM 950 Adventure

Chuckracer screwed with this post 05-22-2009 at 03:26 PM
Chuckracer is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 05-22-2009, 11:37 AM   #1676
never2old4fun
Gnarly Adventurer
 
never2old4fun's Avatar
 
Joined: Jul 2007
Location: Joliet, Illinois
Oddometer: 444
Well, I went through all the posts on this thread hoping someone could answer this for me, but didn't find what I was looking for.
So i'll ask.
I know most everone changes the front sprocket to a 16, but I always like to do things a little differently. Doing things bass ackwards I'll change the rear sprocket.
I've done calculations for 16/41 and 42. Also 17/ 41, 42, 43, 44.
For the type of riding I do I've desided to take the middle ground which is a ratio of 2.52, this turns out to be 17/43 combo. The 16/41 is 2.56 and 17/42 is 2.47.
I know that I would be able to fit a 42 with the stock chain, but I just wondered if anyone has ever even tried to put a 43 on the back using the 17 front with the stock chain.
Another thing is tring to find a 43 rear.
never2old4fun is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-22-2009, 01:09 PM   #1677
nattyMo
Studly Adventurer
 
Joined: Jun 2007
Location: Baltimore Md
Oddometer: 582
Quote:
Originally Posted by Chuckracer
Yeah, your springs are stiffer. I would welcome that at this point!


OT: After a hard day riding (think slow group track day hard) I seem to have a pumping issue..."





Hmmm...well, my left boot will never rust. The airbox drain was put back on that morning. Anybody else see this?
I had the same fluid showing around the bottom of the rear cylinder on mine (last photo). Turned out to be exessive chain lube flung up from the countershaft sprocket. Degreassed the area and have been more careful with the lube. No more issue. Thought I had a base gasket leak. Hope yours is just an easy clean too.
nattyMo is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-22-2009, 01:15 PM   #1678
nattyMo
Studly Adventurer
 
Joined: Jun 2007
Location: Baltimore Md
Oddometer: 582
Quote:
Originally Posted by iammemares
And Lastly, how difficult is it to change the headlight surround. I have a Carbon Fiber surround and would also like to maybe purchase an Orange one and see how that looks on my SMR. I thought I read it was a bit involved.
I've had my mask off several times. I think it's quite easy to remove/swap. You just need a shorty phillips to get to two of the side screws. My orange mask is shown further back in this post. I have photos of it before I painted the black highlights. Let me know if you care to see them.
nattyMo is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-22-2009, 01:40 PM   #1679
6USMC6
R.I.P. Party Boss
 
6USMC6's Avatar
 
Joined: Jan 2009
Location: The "Upper" Valley of the Shenandoah.
Oddometer: 4,436
Seat height

New 2007 SMR.
Stock seat is 34 3/4" off the ground.
Corbin is 34".

Both measurements taken on a level floor, bike level, unladen, stock suspension adjustments. The Corbin feels just as high as the stock seat but I think that's because the stock seat is tapered and the Corbin is flatter. I have a 29" inseam and I probably need more taper and less height. As soon as I figure out what I'm going to do I'll post the Corbin for sale here. It's black and orange and will of course fit both an SMR and a Super Enduro.
__________________
Mike -

"For those who fight for it life has a flavor the protected never know."
USMC 65-68 RVN 66-67
6USMC6 is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 05-22-2009, 03:25 PM   #1680
iammemares
Gnarly Adventurer
 
Joined: Apr 2009
Oddometer: 318
I have a short 29 -30" inseam also and I find the single foot or two toe touch to be adequate. The bike is light and well balanced, pretty easy to keep stable.

If indeed you need to get closer to the ground, a custom shaped seat is probably your best bet.

I have not been a fan of Corbin for a while. I like the look of their stuff, but for their off the shelf stuff, the foam density seems to high to me. TOOOOO Hard. People say they have to break in, which may be true, but I cant last the 6 months or so it would take.

You could also take the Corbin and send it to a custom shop to have reshaped.
iammemares is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Share

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

.
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On

Forum Jump


Times are GMT -7.   It's 07:31 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.5
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright ADVrider 2011-2014