950 Supermoto Chronicles

[EastSideSM]

Originally Posted by 900rider

I concur.

Mine is in for service because of a dead pump at 12,000 miles

:(

Yes, I have heard they go that early. It is plug and play. I order mine from KTM Twins and have done it myself the last time and will change this one when it is time. I also ordered all new fuel lines (I have replaced a couple because they literally disintegrated, but ordered the OEM pre-curved bits and new transfer/crossover etc.) and will replace them as well.

It sits on the outside of the inner part of the tank on a bracket. You literally just pull it out and put the new one in and Bob's your uncle.

It really could not be any easier. (Just remember to shut off the fuel taps on both sides!!!)

Anyone going on a long trip that has more than 12,000 miles on their bike and still on the original pump, I would recommend getting one and keeping it under your seat because you WILL need it.

[preppypyro]

Any of you guys thought about doing the facet pump upgrade, or the dr beans fix?

I dont know the history on my bike at all, but Im going to do an upgrade on the fuel pump, and have read about both.

Thinking right now Im going to do the dr beans upgrade as I havent heard anything bad about his, and have read a few negative things about the facet (although very few negatives)

[EastSideSM]

Originally Posted by preppypyro

Any of you guys thought about doing the facet pump upgrade, or the dr beans fix?

I dont know the history on my bike at all, but Im going to do an upgrade on the fuel pump, and have read about both.

Thinking right now Im going to do the dr beans upgrade as I havent heard anything bad about his, and have read a few negative things about the facet (although very few negatives)

For me, it was just easier to get the OEM, I don't have to worry about flow rate and any other stuff. I'm still learning how to wrench on the bike and I look at it as a consumable, like a set of tires or the water pump overhaul that needs to be done (I did an overhaul a year ago on that and also upgraded all my plumbing to the Samco silicon hoses at that time).

I've replaced my Y-pipe, installed Wings exhausts and had the headers off to replace the gaskets. Oil changes, air filter changes (upgrading to a BMC this weekend), spark plugs and brakes are within my skills. I hope to do a valve clearance check/adjustment this coming winter.

The HOW has been a great tool to learn how to work on this bike. This forum as well.

Keep us posted on the Dr Bean upgrade.

[900rider]

Originally Posted by EastSideSM

Yes, I have heard they go that early. It is plug and play. I order mine from KTM Twins and have done it myself the last time and will change this one when it is time. I also ordered all new fuel lines (I have replaced a couple because they literally disintegrated, but ordered the OEM pre-curved bits and new transfer/crossover etc.) and will replace them as well.

It sits on the outside of the inner part of the tank on a bracket. You literally just pull it out and put the new one in and Bob's your uncle.

It really could not be any easier. (Just remember to shut off the fuel taps on both sides!!!)

Anyone going on a long trip that has more than 12,000 miles on their bike and still on the original pump, I would recommend getting one and keeping it under your seat because you WILL need it.

Yeah, they're easy to replace. I actually had mine off to clean what contacts I could get at. It's in for a tire anyhow and I'm short on time these days. . .

[Garry]

I am getting my bike back from a valve adjust on Thursday night. First time it's needed shims in 45K miles.

Seems that my original water pump seal is leaking now too. But I leave for a 3-day weekend in WV/VA on Friday morning. My questions are:

1) How hard is the water pump rebuild? I have the parts already. Can it be done in a couple hours under pressure (must leave on trip in AM)?

2) Assuming I don't want to tackle it Thursday night, would an oil change and fresh filter probably get me through the weekend? The filter didn't look bad last time. We'll see what it looks like Thursday.

3) Should the leak be large enough to cause oil pressure issues on the road, can the bike be run without an oil filter for a day to get home?

[Effigy]

Originally Posted by Effigy

Damn those are some good values, the best I can is to reach around 112miles and then the fuel light comes up and I start to worry.

I heard somewhere that when the mufflers have some dark dirt on them perhaps its burning too much gasoline, here is a picture:



They are LeoVince.
Any thoughts?

Help?

Sent from my GT-P7300 using Tapatalk 2

[omnivore]

When my pump fails I will switch to a vacuum snowmobile style pump. Cheap, effective, reliable, and can be rebuilt at the roadside in less than an hr with hand tools.

[KHVol]

Originally Posted by Effigy

Damn those are some good values, the best I can is to reach around 112miles and then the fuel light comes up and I start to worry.

I heard somewhere that when the mufflers have some dark dirt on them perhaps its burning too much gasoline, here is a picture:



They are LeoVince.
Any thoughts?

Looks fine to me, flash may be making it lighter than it is but looks good from that pic

[900rider]

Originally Posted by omnivore

When my pump fails I will switch to a vacuum snowmobile style pump. Cheap, effective, reliable, and can be rebuilt at the roadside in less than an hr with hand tools.

Link?

[omnivore]

http://www.alternatecycle.com/ktm950fuelpump.html

[EastSideSM]

Originally Posted by Garry

I am getting my bike back from a valve adjust on Thursday night. First time it's needed shims in 45K miles.

Seems that my original water pump seal is leaking now too. But I leave for a 3-day weekend in WV/VA on Friday morning. My questions are:

1) How hard is the water pump rebuild? I have the parts already. Can it be done in a couple hours under pressure (must leave on trip in AM)?

2) Assuming I don't want to tackle it Thursday night, would an oil change and fresh filter probably get me through the weekend? The filter didn't look bad last time. We'll see what it looks like Thursday.

3) Should the leak be large enough to cause oil pressure issues on the road, can the bike be run without an oil filter for a day to get home?

Question 1: It isn't hard, but requires some time and attention. The hardest part I found was getting the bearings pressed back into the case. I could not do that and had to bring the case to the shop and have them press them in for me, even after I had tried heating the case and freezing the bearings. In ORANGE CRUSH HOW there is a very detailed step by step on the entire procedure. I think it could be done in two hours though if you don't run into the issue with pressing the bearings back in.

Mine took even more time though because I replumbed everything with the silicon hoses and they are a bitch to get to all of them and the clamps etc.

2 and 3, I am not quite sure. Somebody with more knowledge on the subject please chime in.

[nattyMo]

1) I've done this three times now, twice on my bike and once on my buds Adventure. The SMR is much easier then the Adv but I don't think 2hrs would allow enough time. Simple things can eat up time, just removing the old gaskets and cleaning the surfaces can easily eat 30min. Even removing the clutch cover can be slow. I've never had problems removing or pressing the bearings in but the first time I installed the pump seal I botched it. Bought the KTM driver which helped quite a bit on the 2nd and 3rd jobs. If you follow the directions on the HOW be sure not to put the coolant hose o-rings in together. One goes on each side of the raised ring when you insert the hose into the water pump housing.

For a time estimate, figure what ever it takes you to do a oil change, plus a coolant flush plus aprox. 1.5 hours for the rebuild.

Given you're in a hurry, it may well be best to leave it at the shop and have them do the job.

2) It's an unknown, but I doubt it. Mine went from fine to radical cam chain noise in less then 60 miles when I botched my first job.

3) a day, um, not a good idea Gary. In a pinch to survive maybe an hour or so. Ask yourself, do you really want to risk your engine or your wallet? For sure you could run it for some time w/o the filter and water in the oil if it's a very small amount of water. The leak will get worse over time and there is no way of knowing how much coolant is really in the bottom end of your motor. Keep in mind that you're also loosing coolant so you may suffer from overheating, putting more stress on the engine.

I know you're a smart guy, best to fix it prior to departure.

Good luck and I hope you are able to make your trip!

NM

Originally Posted by Garry

I am getting my bike back from a valve adjust on Thursday night. First time it's needed shims in 45K miles.

Seems that my original water pump seal is leaking now too. But I leave for a 3-day weekend in WV/VA on Friday morning. My questions are:

1) How hard is the water pump rebuild? I have the parts already. Can it be done in a couple hours under pressure (must leave on trip in AM)?

2) Assuming I don't want to tackle it Thursday night, would an oil change and fresh filter probably get me through the weekend? The filter didn't look bad last time. We'll see what it looks like Thursday.

3) Should the leak be large enough to cause oil pressure issues on the road, can the bike be run without an oil filter for a day to get home?

[preppypyro]

Originally Posted by omnivore

When my pump fails I will switch to a vacuum snowmobile style pump. Cheap, effective, reliable, and can be rebuilt at the roadside in less than an hr with hand tools.

Have you did much research on the dr bean kit, or the facet upgrade compared to the vacuum style pump?

Im going to upgrade my stock fuel pump one way or another, and all three options are fairly close in price... makes the decision tough!

[Milar]

How much should I pay for a replacement pump?

M

[omnivore]

Originally Posted by preppypyro

Have you did much research on the dr bean kit, or the facet upgrade compared to the vacuum style pump?

Im going to upgrade my stock fuel pump one way or another, and all three options are fairly close in price... makes the decision tough!

I have done a little.
I have a Facet here, but all things considered, it is far easier to run a vacuum line than to wire something up. Then there's the matter of the Facet, being an electric fuel pump, could fail anytime as well. How could I overcome that roadside? And the fuel line arrangement would be for me to figure out.

The vacuum pump comes with the complete fuel line kit and instructions...I am not real bright so those are handy. And a roadside repair kit is cheap, and small enough to keep one under the seat.