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Old 08-29-2012, 07:02 PM   #7606
BuckMoto
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Quote:
Originally Posted by samppa2005 View Post
World exclusive pictures!

Got my TKCs mounted. They really do feel funny compared to regular street tires.

The grip and milage are fantastic! No slipping when i pushed her into the garage and the tires hardly wore at all!

Well maybe on the weekend i'll get a chance to go for a test ride...

Notice the contrast bike sneeking into the first picture.

Oh and yes i noticed that this is the 950 section and not the 990 section but nobody seems interested in taking their 990 to the dirt

samppa2005 -Have you had it out in the dirt past the garage yet?!! What are your thoughts? -curious and jealous minds want to know!
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Old 08-30-2012, 12:06 AM   #7607
samppa2005
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Yes i have! Went aaaaalll the way around the house...and along the nice gravel roads along the russian border
These are my first knobbies so i can't really compare them to any "real" knobbies and my opinions are just my opinions. I assume they are what they are TKC80 just as any other size TKC80. Some people love them some people hate them. It all depends what you are expecting. I will be buying more of these unless someone develops competition that's a bit cheaper.

They do seem to be really 50/50 tires. They aren't good on any surface but they do well/ok on all surfaces. So pretty much exactly what i was looking for. Offroad they are FUN!! No more sliding with both wheels in (all) corners etc and i can actually stop the bike! So offroad they do perform well although they don't compare to a flat profile "real" knobby ofcourse. On tarmack they are a bit weird. There is grip and i can lean the bike no problem but i haven't built up the confidence on them yet. Didn't ride much on tarmack so far. They are much different from regular street tires as they judder for example. With a stiff road bike suspension it's vibrating the whole bike unlike in an offroad bike. I thought about revalving the shocks during the next service. Need to formulate a plan. Driving fast while leaning will cause the steering to wiggle but it's not that bad and it doesn't seem to develop into a tank slapper. My old SV1000 was worse .

If i'd have to guess the rear would go about 3000km +- 1000 km depending on the rider. Depends a bit how the tire wears once the soft surface is gone. Could go for much longer if driven nicely (which would be boring).

Bottom line: They are a compromise. Need to know that when buying them otherwise you'll be disapointed. The tradeoff from onroad to offroad capability seems fair in my opinion. I can still lean the bike and do most things on road as i can with road tires as long as i mind the difference in my riding style. Offroad i can do anything i want/can do with them. The driver is the limit not the tires. They are a bit on the expencive side so in the long run if offroading a lot it might be cheaper to buy spoked rims and get some cheaper knobbies. I am happy with them and will be driving all autumn with the top of my head almost falling off from smiling

Oh and installing the SE splash guard and some oilpan protection will be a very good idea before purchasing these tires

edit: And ofcourse the headers will get flattened with these unless protected.
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Old 08-30-2012, 07:57 AM   #7608
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Originally Posted by Milar View Post
I've developed a small oil drip on the bottom of the bike. I've tightened the drain plug and it didn't help. I double gasketed the plug and I still get a couple of drips when parked overnight. Any suggestions?

M
A couple of years ago I changed my oil and did not replace the crush washer, I belive this is want you mean when you say gasket, and it driped a very small amount. Next oil change I replaced the crush washer and no more drips.
I can't see that adding a 2nd washer would be a good idea. Get a NEW washer and tourqe the drain bolt to spec.
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Old 08-30-2012, 10:02 AM   #7609
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If it's JASO-MA you're fine -- conventional or synthetic. Use a decent oil and the engine will be lubricated and protected. Some brands/types may effect shift feel a bit, but the bottom line will still be met (lubricated and protected).

One thing I have not yet seen asked about in this current case:
Eastside, when the oil was changed, what was the condition of the clutch oil jet? Was this inspected and/or serviced by the dealer that performed the oil change? If it is plugged, what is the impact to clutch performance?
I actually checked the jet before the trip and it was fine. I just heard back from the inspection from the dealer and the fiber plates were fried, the steel ones were a bit blued. I'm going to put in a replacement clutch kit and also ordered a new mounting piece/backer for the slave, apparently the stock plastic one was getting deformed from heat and slave was getting hung up and causing clutch drag.

So, if anyone replaced their slave but didn't replace the backer, you may want to. I think the failing master exacerbated the drag and caused the backer to fail premataurely but that is just conjecture.

My charging system is fine, so I have deduced the Lithium batteries suck at this point in time for my purposes and have gone back to conventional battery.

This is gonna be pricey. Damnit.
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Old 08-30-2012, 01:01 PM   #7610
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EastsideSM
I agree with running stock plates again. They have a looooong history of taking a good beating, with all the LC8 motors getting flogged in adverse terrain. The heads up on the clutch slave backer is pertainent! I haven't heard of that little whammy and it sounds like one to know.

Glad you can eliminate the charging system from your list of fixits...

edit to add:

On TKC80's: I am on my third rear and now need a new front, due to low pressure running on pavement and excess cupping. It would still be good to go, if I had pumped it back up to street pressure.

The tires transform my dirt riding in two ways:

First, as samppa noted, BRAKING control, stability and traction is vastly improved in the dirt.

The second effect is that I can easily drive the bike out of a dirt road corner with rear tire spin, since it applies lots of pressure to the front, which in turn give the front lots of traction/stability. When the edge of the front knobs are leaned into the dirt corners on the throttle, they hook nicely and offer a bit of over steer. Instead of every other tire, which trys to plow across the road and into the ditch, suffering massive understeer.

I agree with Samppa in that the tire doesn't like to be leaned way over on the street. It can lean right down in the dirt and gravel, but I find the knife edge of the outer knobs, if I lean her in too hard on a corner, especially on the rear wheel. So for street handling, I move my butt off the seat and lean with my body rather than leaning the bike over, in the steeper corners.
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Old 08-30-2012, 01:55 PM   #7611
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Any one hear when us North Americans can get some of these continentals? Ive been riding out my michelin back tire for awhile waiting on these tires, but Im gonna have to get something soon!

Ive looked around for some 75 ish on road 25ish off road type tires, but they seem tough to find in our SM sizes!
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Old 08-30-2012, 05:57 PM   #7612
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The TKC-80s are here!!

I ordered a set of TKC-80s at the local dealer today and should have them Saturday or next Tuesday. I also got an email from Bike Bandit today saying they had them in our sizes too.

samppa2005 & snowhawk jockey - Thanks for the feedback on the tires. I'm looking forward to getting them dirty!

EastSideSM - sorry to hear that it's gonna be expensive.
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Old 08-30-2012, 06:24 PM   #7613
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I just received a PM from an inmate who runs TKC-80s on a big bike and he says to run 36 psi in front and 40 psi in back. Otherwise they get squirrely. I was told the same thing about Heidi K-60 Scouts (by the mfg).
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Old 08-31-2012, 12:36 PM   #7614
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Originally Posted by 6USMC6 View Post
I just received a PM from an inmate who runs TKC-80s on a big bike and he says to run 36 psi in front and 40 psi in back. Otherwise they get squirrely. I was told the same thing about Heidi K-60 Scouts (by the mfg).
Good point sir.

The ADV guys have that skinny front, and sometimes a buttload of luggage, so I imagine those tires feel funny with low pressure on the pavement. Not to mention, the knob wobble gets appearent at higher speeds with the lower pressures.

The >critical point< to remember for the SM is that the front RIM is what the higher air pressure values will protect, on a rocky road. Higher air pressures will significantly reduce the cupping effect on the knobs, as well.

That said, I run about 16-18lbs on my 19x2.15 front(24 PSI rear), with my GL tank and saddle bags stuffed full o' camping gear, for mixed road excursions. The SM's stock alloy rims would be victim of big dents, the first time any 'o ya tried a run at those pressures.

Bring on the KNOBS! Don't forget to order a side of SWMotech skid plate to go with the new sprinkled donuts!! DAMHIK
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Old 08-31-2012, 08:22 PM   #7615
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What do you guys think would be safe off-road pressures for the TKC-80s that would be less likely to bend or crack a cast wheel? Mine are still round and I'd like them to stay that way! I'm assuming that the 36psi front/ 40 psi rear would be pavement pressures?

Which leads to another question; does anyone have experience with a mini 12v compressor that could rapidly inflate both tires back up to street pressures? It looks like the Aerostitch one that eSONG mentioned a while back may be the fastest at 2 minutes/tire. The Stop n Go is 10 minutes/tire! The Slime Power Sport looks like a possible candidate too.

http://www.aerostich.com/prevent-or-...ompressor.html
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Old 08-31-2012, 09:27 PM   #7616
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I run the same pressure on the TKC80 as the regular street tire. First and foremost because i don't want to dent the rims. The stock SM has a much harder suspension then a regular offroad bike the rims will dent even easier as the shock won't move as fast. Although i guess it'd be more difficult to bottom out the SM suspensions. Second because i don't want the tire to spin on the rim. I already managed to do that by spinning the wheel before it was properly settled so the pattern is now tilted so that the right side of the rear is about 5mm off on the rear wheel. No way to put rimlocks on the tubeless alloy wheels. I even manage to spin my street tires on the rims sometimes.
This is just a theory of mine and i'm not a 100% sure it's accurate. But if you look at a "regular" knobby tire it's a lot flatter in profile. For example the "real" knobbys have a flat rear profile to keep it from wiggling when accelerating hard. That means that for low speed crawl they need lower pressure to form on the rocks etc. These TKC80 have a rounder profile so they will wiggle on acceleration but they do not need that much lower pressure as there is always a section of the tire that has grip. There will be ofcourse less grip and more sliding but it still will grip. Also the knob is not that high and the tire carcass(?) is very stiff. So i'm not convinced the 180 wide TKC would benefit much from dropping the pressure.


Anyway i'll be keeping the regular pressures to keep the rims from denting and the wheel from spinning on the rim. I'm not that experienced on dirt so i'm happy riding along with the regular pressures. I figure that if i learn riding on dirt on a big SM i'll be an offroad god on a smaller dirt bike
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Old 09-01-2012, 04:27 PM   #7617
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My water pump rebuild was a success a couple months back. Did my first oil change since the rebuild and the oil filter pleats are like new. Getting the bike prepped for a long weekend ride to NC/TN (The Snake) next weekend.
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Old 09-02-2012, 09:57 PM   #7618
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My water pump rebuild was a success a couple months back. Did my first oil change since the rebuild and the oil filter pleats are like new. Getting the bike prepped for a long weekend ride to NC/TN (The Snake) next weekend.
Go Garry! I love it when a repair is more than just a fix, haven't had to reseal the water shaft yet, myself. I did an oil change last ride and it is finally time to check the valves. Glad my bike got cleaned, so I don't knock dust into the cams/heads... Let us know how that ride goes and pics o' your tires, before/after.
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Old 09-03-2012, 02:23 PM   #7619
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When we last left our hero, he was anxiously awaiting the news on getting the SM back.

Initial word was that the seal circlip had broken and made a mess of things, including scoring the bearing surface of the cover. This (circlip breaking) was not too surprising, since there were audible noises coming from the water pump area when I had the problem.

The last phone (about 2 weeks ago) call I had from the dealer was that the replacement water pump still resulted in oil getting in the water and that they were going to replace the head gaskets. Ok? Gulp, but yes.

After several days it occurred to me that the work was going to be real close to the cost of putting a 990 Superduke engine in it (for some reason, there have been quite a few SD motors for sale- anyone know why?), so I was kicking myself for that.

Anyway, I got the call 2 Saturdays ago that the bike was finished and I said I'd be there on Monday (8/27). I went to the dealer and was surprised to get a relatively (key word ) inexpensive tab. Not that I was complaining, but I asked why. The service manager asked "didn't x call you back to say it didn't need head gaskets?". Why no, he didn't. It turned out that they made a mistake installing the water pump, installed another one, drained/flushed/oil change, and things seemed fine. They also replaced the cover which was pretty well scarred.

I've put about 500 miles on so far on a couple of rides, and things seem fine: water temp acting as it's always done, the coolant level is staying put, and the coolant is staying that nice sea blue color Honda intented.

Fingers staying crossed though
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Old 09-03-2012, 02:35 PM   #7620
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Originally Posted by wpbarlow View Post
When we last left our hero, he was anxiously awaiting the news on getting the SM back.

Initial word was that the seal circlip had broken and made a mess of things, including scoring the bearing surface of the cover. This (circlip breaking) was not too surprising, since there were audible noises coming from the water pump area when I had the problem.

The last phone (about 2 weeks ago) call I had from the dealer was that the replacement water pump still resulted in oil getting in the water and that they were going to replace the head gaskets. Ok? Gulp, but yes.

After several days it occurred to me that the work was going to be real close to the cost of putting a 990 Superduke engine in it (for some reason, there have been quite a few SD motors for sale- anyone know why?), so I was kicking myself for that.

Anyway, I got the call 2 Saturdays ago that the bike was finished and I said I'd be there on Monday (8/27). I went to the dealer and was surprised to get a relatively (key word ) inexpensive tab. Not that I was complaining, but I asked why. The service manager asked "didn't x call you back to say it didn't need head gaskets?". Why no, he didn't. It turned out that they made a mistake installing the water pump, installed another one, drained/flushed/oil change, and things seemed fine. They also replaced the cover which was pretty well scarred.

I've put about 500 miles on so far on a couple of rides, and things seem fine: water temp acting as it's always done, the coolant level is staying put, and the coolant is staying that nice sea blue color Honda intented.

Fingers staying crossed though
Congrats, Walter...usually the breaks go the other way...
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