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Old 09-25-2012, 08:39 AM   #7711
BuckMoto
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Location: Colorado
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Quote:
Originally Posted by samppa2005 View Post
Here is an old picture of the splash guard. The picture is not very good and i had to chop it a bit since but you get the idea. You can also see it in the pics i posted previously. A couple of things you need to do:

1. Cut off about 5mm from the sides because it rubs on the swingarm. (this is important. Not seen in picture)
2. Make a bracket for the chain guard. I used a piece of PEHD plastic to bend an L-shaped piece.
3. Bolt on the splashguard. If you are lazy just use self tapping screws I made the holes through and put on proper bolts.

Very easy and cheap after all!



Hi samppa2005. Could I bug you for one more picture taken from the side that shows the positioning of the arc of the splash guard? If you would be willing to remove the chain guard for the picture, I would really appreciate it!! It looks like you must have chopped off a long section from the bottom of the splash protector as well as narrowing the sides to fit in the swingarm. It also looks like you made your own upper bolt holes through the plastic seat compartment. I noticed that the splash protector fits like a glove using the existing holes that are 2 holes rearward in your pic but it would require heating and re-bending the lower part that you probably cut off. Have you had any rubbing issues when bottoming the suspension?

Here's a side view of mine. The spring was removed so I could bottom the suspension. When I bent my swingarm, the tire left deep rub grooves on the underside of the hugger and the top side of the hugger melted when it contacted the pipe. My concern is with possible interference with wheel travel.

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BuckMoto screwed with this post 09-25-2012 at 08:46 AM Reason: fat fingers/little keyboard
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Old 09-25-2012, 10:37 AM   #7712
snowhawk jockey
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Location: The other Center of the Universe: Bend, Oregon
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BuckMoto View Post
I'm using these because I can choose my grips:

http://www.ktm-parts.com/U6951345.html

These may actually work better since the heaters would be closer to the grip surface. I think these are the ones eSong uses:

http://www.ktm-parts.com/60112064244.html

Heated Grips are my next MUST! I can't believe how cold my hands got running in 41*, at night, even with my good gloves on... I must have stopped every half hour, just to fling more blood into my stiffened hands!

If ya don't want to monkey around with the bar side, get the grips with heaters in them. If ya are creative and like to tinker...

The foils are the ones to get, since you can use your prefferred grip style. A little secret to getting the bar side grip to heat:

Get two pairs of grips, so you have two throttle side grips.
On the throttle side of the bike, install as normal.
On the bar side, wrap the bar with an appropriate layer of glass backed adhesive heat shield(or just glue on another throttle tube), then grip foil, then second throttle side grip. This allows the foil to heat the grip instead of the bar!
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Old 09-25-2012, 05:28 PM   #7713
eSONG
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Location: Northampton, Mass
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BuckMoto View Post

I think these are the ones eSong uses: http://www.ktm-parts.com/60112064244.html
Yes, i've had these for a couple seasons now. it's AMAZING how often they get used...like those unexpected slightly cool summer mornings, or sometimes when you get caught in a light rain w/o rain gloves. anytime you feel a slight chill, just flip the switch and you're good to go.

There are plenty of times that I would've worn my heated vest if I didn't have those heated grips...but with the heated grips, I hardly think of putting on the heated vest. it makes that much of a difference. i've worn my summer kevelar gloves from aerostich well into late fall and just use the heated grips if i feel the need.

They have a high and low setting, and it's literally plug and play....[edit] actually i took a closer look at the photo...looks like they updated their control. mine is a dial with an off, low, and high setting. [/edit] The grips connect to an unused ignition power cut off connector below your dash so no worries of the grips draining your battery with the bike off. They are super easy to install.

I have a friend who has tried about a dozen different types of heated grips over many years and many bikes, and he swears hot grips are the best he has tried. these ktm heated grips are the same as the hot grips brand.

i highly recommend them. probably the same price as a pair of good winter riding gloves, but more effective and versatile IMO.
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Old 09-25-2012, 11:58 PM   #7714
samppa2005
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BuckMoto View Post
Hi samppa2005. Could I bug you for one more picture taken from the side that shows the positioning of the arc of the splash guard? If you would be willing to remove the chain guard for the picture, I would really appreciate it!! It looks like you must have chopped off a long section from the bottom of the splash protector as well as narrowing the sides to fit in the swingarm. It also looks like you made your own upper bolt holes through the plastic seat compartment. I noticed that the splash protector fits like a glove using the existing holes that are 2 holes rearward in your pic but it would require heating and re-bending the lower part that you probably cut off. Have you had any rubbing issues when bottoming the suspension?

Here's a side view of mine. The spring was removed so I could bottom the suspension. When I bent my swingarm, the tire left deep rub grooves on the underside of the hugger and the top side of the hugger melted when it contacted the pipe. My concern is with possible interference with wheel travel.
Ok here are a couple of pics of the dirty girl i took last night . Didn't have the time to take the chain guard off because i was watching the kids. You don't have to chop off anything from the bottom just the sides as you can see circled in red in the first image. The splash guard goes inside the swingarm. The SE has sliders in the swingarm to take it a bit further away from the swingarm so i had to cut away the curved edges from the sides. Now it just slides on the swingarm. No signs of wear since i cut off the edges.

The undertray has the same exact holes as the SE has i just made them go all the way through and put bolts through. You could just as easily put some wood screws directly on and they would probably hold. So i didn't make any new holes i just drilled the two existing ones to go all the way through. Fits perfectly.

I haven't tried taking the rear spring out to see but no marks anywhere from bottoming out even with some jumps on dirt roads. Also as i look at it i don't think the splash guard should rub on to anything even when bottoming. Even if it does rub when bottoming it shouldn't be a problem as it is shaped so that it shouldn't catch on to anything.

In the lower picture you can also see the L-shaped plastic bracket i made to hold the chain guard.

ps. Yes that is a chain saw in the lower picture and no it's not blood on the wall




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Old 09-26-2012, 10:19 AM   #7715
BuckMoto
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Quote:
Originally Posted by samppa2005 View Post
Ok here are a couple of pics of the dirty girl i took last night .

ps. Yes that is a chain saw in the lower picture and no it's not blood on the wall




Thanks for posting these pics - they are very helpful. I was trying to make sense of the big hole in the middle of the splash guard being used to bolt to something- maybe the SE has a bracket near the exhaust Y. To me, it looks like contact will be made under heavy shock compression but like you say, the shape should allow it to not catch. I wonder if I should use screws to allow it to break away if it binds. In my compressed shock pic, the tire looks to be closer to the exhaust Y than the the splash guard is to the Y in your pic. I will be avoiding getting any height on jumps and will be cautious on G-out dips though - at least until Slavens does his thing to my suspension!

Thanks again for your pics and insights- much appreciated!

The chainsaw and red drips on the wall do look sinister!

eSONG- thanks for the extra info about your heated grips. If my setup does not do well enough, I'll switch to those.
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Old 09-26-2012, 10:34 AM   #7716
wiseblood
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GPS installed!



ACC1 was exactly where you all said it was, and worked as advertised.


Hey: How powerful is the charging system on the SMR? If I add heated grips and run that with my GPS and heated vest, am I going to regret it?
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Old 09-26-2012, 11:32 AM   #7717
samppa2005
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wiseblood View Post

Hey: How powerful is the charging system on the SMR? If I add heated grips and run that with my GPS and heated vest, am I going to regret it?
Might be pushing it. If i have the heated grips on high and the fan goes on for example in traffic lights the voltage dips pretty low already. I posted a link to a voltage indicator earlier which i have mounted. I have been using it to see how my voltage is doing. High revs on a highway should not a problem though. With those loads i'd install a voltage indicator. That way i'd know

Buck- I thought about the screws as well so it would break away if it got caught. The end result of my thought process was that i didn't want to risk the thing coming off unintended. If the shock bottoms and the splash guard does catch it'll break away even with the bolts. After all it's plastic. And yes the SE has a bracket in the y-pipe. Thought about fabricating one but it doesn't seem to need one. Everyone is running 2-1 with their SEs and therefore nobody has that bracket either. Doesn't seem to matter.
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Old 09-26-2012, 01:09 PM   #7718
EastSideSM
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Joined: Mar 2008
Location: Providence, RI
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Weird clunking noise during warm up

Posted this over in OC also but have a crack at it guys...

This is a new thing. Bike is an 06 SM with 40,000 miles.I am the only owner so I know the entire history of the bike)

When the bike is idling while on the choke, after about a minute or so, I can hear the engine make aa "CLunk", almost like it is missing a beat, it just doesn't sound right. Once it warms up and I am underway I haven't noticed it. Maybe I am just getting paranoid, but it definitely is a new "noise" to me. Could this be a timing related issue? Any ideas?

Some other vitals:

Valve inspection recently done and was told "Everything in Spec" New clutch pack installed, master rebuilt, Oberon slave and backer installed, water pump rebuilt (3rd rebuild to date), fuel pump (3rd) and battery replaced in the last 1000 miles. (Shorai I had got toasted, so replaced with stock Yuasa while on a trip recently VR checked out to be charging bike normally.) Plugs replaced during recent service. Carbs were synced also at this time. Bike has BMC air filter with stock airbox and snorkel, SAS plumbing and canister removed, block off plates installed, Wings Exhausts. Installed the Satrater torque limiter upgrade kit this past spring when my clickety clack went beserk. That was actually one of the easiest fixes I have done on the bike.

Oil was changed during the last service which involved the dealer and when I got the back bike and checked the level (While the bike was HOT), I noticed they had overfilled by nearly 1/3 of a quart over the FULL line. Removed enough oil to get me in the middle of the MIN/MAX with a turkey baster. Rode probably 40 miles with the oil overfilled like that. Can this cause much damage?

Thanks in advance for any help.
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Old 09-26-2012, 07:27 PM   #7719
BuckMoto
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Location: Colorado
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EastSideSM View Post
Posted this over in OC also but have a crack at it guys...

This is a new thing. Bike is an 06 SM with 40,000 miles.I am the only owner so I know the entire history of the bike)

When the bike is idling while on the choke, after about a minute or so, I can hear the engine make aa "CLunk", almost like it is missing a beat, it just doesn't sound right. Once it warms up and I am underway I haven't noticed it. Maybe I am just getting paranoid, but it definitely is a new "noise" to me. Could this be a timing related issue? Any ideas?
A bit of a long shot, but check that the coil boots are fully seated. My bike stumbled a bit when idling during warm-up and had been getting more difficult to start. I just discovered that the front coil had not been fully seated when I changed plugs. The bike starts now like turning on a light switch! No stumbles and only a little choke needed.

Don't know about the effects of extra oil. Maybe more resistance for the crank to plow through?
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Old 09-26-2012, 07:53 PM   #7720
wiseblood
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Heel guard

Hey all --

Does anyone know of any options to add a heel guard to the SMR? I noticed that my right boot spends an uncomfortable amount of time pressed against the master cylinder for the rear brake. I'd love to be able to remove the passenger pegs, and screw in a heel guard there.

Thoughts?
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Old 09-27-2012, 08:27 AM   #7721
wpbarlow OP
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Joined: Jun 2003
Location: Central NJ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wiseblood View Post
...Hey: How powerful is the charging system on the SMR? If I add heated grips and run that with my GPS and heated vest, am I going to regret it?

I run an electric vest and gloves quite a bit along with the GPS (and sometimes with electric socks). Never had an issue, and still on the original (2006) battery.
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Old 09-27-2012, 09:10 AM   #7722
EastSideSM
Isn't that dangerous?
 
Joined: Mar 2008
Location: Providence, RI
Oddometer: 1,490
Quote:
Originally Posted by BuckMoto View Post
A bit of a long shot, but check that the coil boots are fully seated. My bike stumbled a bit when idling during warm-up and had been getting more difficult to start. I just discovered that the front coil had not been fully seated when I changed plugs. The bike starts now like turning on a light switch! No stumbles and only a little choke needed.

Don't know about the effects of extra oil. Maybe more resistance for the crank to plow through?
Thanks, I am going to check the coils, plug wires and pull the plugs to see if they possibly got fouled.
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Old 09-27-2012, 07:41 PM   #7723
nattyMo
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Location: Baltimore Md
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Nice to see you followed my advice on the SMR... and welcome to the chronicles.

I've seen a few heel guards for the brake mc, here's one:
http://www.touratech-usa.com/Store/P...per-Enduro-LC8

NM

Quote:
Originally Posted by wiseblood View Post
Hey all --

Does anyone know of any options to add a heel guard to the SMR? I noticed that my right boot spends an uncomfortable amount of time pressed against the master cylinder for the rear brake. I'd love to be able to remove the passenger pegs, and screw in a heel guard there.

Thoughts?
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Old 09-27-2012, 09:24 PM   #7724
DM47
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wiseblood View Post
Hey all --

Does anyone know of any options to add a heel guard to the SMR? I noticed that my right boot spends an uncomfortable amount of time pressed against the master cylinder for the rear brake. I'd love to be able to remove the passenger pegs, and screw in a heel guard there.

Thoughts?
Quote:
Originally Posted by nattyMo View Post
Nice to see you followed my advice on the SMR... and welcome to the chronicles.

I've seen a few heel guards for the brake mc, here's one:
http://www.touratech-usa.com/Store/P...per-Enduro-LC8

NM
That's the one I use. See my post with pics here:
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showp...postcount=5760

My bike is a 2006 950SM; not an R version. The guard is marketed as for the 950SE and 950A, but fits my bike perfectly.
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Old 09-28-2012, 06:20 AM   #7725
wiseblood
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nattyMo View Post
Nice to see you followed my advice on the SMR... and welcome to the chronicles.


Sold my Tiger last Saturday. Picked up the SMR Sunday from a guy on Long Island (about 30 min away from me)! 2400 miles on the clock.


Quote:
Originally Posted by nattyMo View Post
I've seen a few heel guards for the brake mc, here's one:
http://www.touratech-usa.com/Store/P...per-Enduro-LC8

NM

Thanks! But, damn, can Touratech take a more useless picture of that thing?



Worst fetish porn, ever.
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