950 Supermoto Chronicles

[wiseblood]

Originally Posted by 900rider

What windscreen?

I put my 690 screen on without taking anything apart...

This one:

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showp...postcount=7728


I've started with beer. Gonna try that first.

[900rider]

Does it use those rubber nut things that squish as they get tighter?

[nattyMo]

Yes

Originally Posted by 900rider

Does it use those rubber nut things that squish as they get tighter?

[nattyMo]

You only need to unplug the headlamp the other wires stay connected. You'll need a stubby phillips screw driver to remove the screws from the plastic side plates other then that it was pretty easy for me. Didn't try it while I was drinking though.

Good luck.

Originally Posted by wiseblood

This one:

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showp...postcount=7728


I've started with beer. Gonna try that first.

[900rider]

Hold the screen up to the bike, mark the holes with a Sharpie, remove screen, drill holes, install rubber squishy things, instal screen.

That's how it went for me at least.

[omnivore]

There are a number of bikes with a 5.5" rear wheel that came OEM with a 190/50 rear tire.
Ducati 999 is one of them.

Anyhow, I have a 190/50 on my 950SM...I found the handling quite nervouse with a 180/55 on it while towing my sungle wheeled trailer, so I switched to a 190/50 instead. Overal rolling circumference is almost identical and it cause less than 2km speedo change at highway speed, but the flatter profile made the bike much more stable while towing the trailer with it, at the cost of some flickability. But I find the OEM geometry of the 950SM so incredibly nervous that the switch to a slower turning tire didn't make it hard to ride at all. In fact, even with the 190/50 on there I can still ride it as hard as I dare with very little effort compared to supersport bikes.

[lukeinlondon]

has anyone tried this for a touring screen?

http://palmerproducts.co.uk

[wiseblood]

Alright! Mission windscreen complete!

Here's a photo journal of the process, with my awesome and pithy comments:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/jerlbau...978844/detail/




The answer to the question is, to get the front fairing off the cowling, you have to remove the instrument panel first! Unscrew the four Phillips screws, and then you can access the two side screws which hold the front fairing on:






Remember to use all your specialty tools!




After some drilling and screwing:

[EastSideSM]

Originally Posted by snowhawk jockey

Yeah... the stock cans got a jacket sleeve, two pairs of gloves and a saddle bag. I figured if I was gonna have to buy new gear every time I fumbled at the gas station and bumped into a muffler, might as well take that cash and cure the problem!

Now, I have a new nemesis and it is the exposed ADV header that keeps claiming my riding pants, at the right knee. Glad I could fit a shroud to it, now that I have gone through two pairs of pants. O'course one pair were the brand new ones...

That sucks! Your Y-Pipe says hello and thanks you for another shot at being part of a KTM again!!! Still going strong.

[snowhawk jockey]

Originally Posted by preppypyro

Snowhack, I cant remember if I had asked you before or not, so Ill ask you now, did you use a stock exhaust system from an adv 950 and did it just bolt right on to your SM?

Some day I must write a complete build along for my dirty girl and post it. It has been discussed in many fragments, but not a complete package.

Correct, the stock exhaust from a >950< ADV would bolt right on to the heads. Since the ADV has a longer subframe, the y-pipe mounts are a distance from the SM subframe holes, so I bolted on a hanger bracket/extension to carry the pipe.

I got a 990 exhaust, thinking they would be the same, not so.
The routing is the same, but the flanges at the head were not the same size, 990 flange too big. So, a little cutting and welding of my flanges onto the the 990 system and yup, we got high pipes. I also cut and shaped the "y" into a 2-1. Cutting the flange off my stock exhaust can and welding it onto a Termignani Ducati muffler with slip fit muffler mount, let me bolt it right up.
So that is the story of my high pipes.

WORD OF CAUTION:
I wanted the 2005.5 and newer headers since they have a long heat shield, at the frame. An additional heat shield must be added onto the straight section, where it passes over the clutch and waterpump. It is a pants burner and I do mean *instant death* to pants...

[nattyMo]

Well Done! Looks better then my 690sm screen.

Originally Posted by wiseblood

Alright! Mission windscreen complete!

Here's a photo journal of the process, with my awesome and pithy comments:

[BuckMoto]

So sad- have to go back home tomorrow..



Pike's Peak earlier today..

[snowhawk jockey]

Buck that is some lovely landscape ya are rolling through, there.
My BIL's GreatUncle Zeb would be happy to see "his" hill getting a fresh dust o'snow. SPEAKING OF SNOW!!! snow is a good reminder for me to get my shxt organized for my winterization projects...

[wiseblood]

How many of you installed the Scotts (Scott's?) oil filter?:

http://www.ktmtwins.com/scotts-ktm-9...lc8-oil-filter




I'm planning my first oil change for the next couple weeks or so, so I'm wondering if I should just install one now.

[EastSideSM]

Originally Posted by wiseblood

How many of you installed the Scotts (Scott's?) oil filter?:

http://www.ktmtwins.com/scotts-ktm-9...lc8-oil-filter




I'm planning my first oil change for the next couple weeks or so, so I'm wondering if I should just install one now.

There are various opinions of replacing the paper filter with the stainless. With the paper, the wavy pleats that indicate a coolant leak (usually due to a failing waterpump shaft/seal), is a helpful indicator to some of us. However, the stainless filter will still work if you get a coolant leak while the paper filter will become clogged to the point of it interfering with your oil circulation. I have gone back and forth with switching to the scott's but have decided to keep running the paper filters, i also upgraded to a CJ Racer see-through clutch cover that should help me spot the water pump/seal failure without having to pull anything. I should be able to see the milk shake when it happens.