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Old 02-26-2013, 06:33 PM   #8281
Thumper996
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nattyMo View Post
I confirmed in both the parts diag and service manual. Not close to my SMR to confirm in person but I'm sure now that on a 950SMR that is the coolant overflow tube. You are not missing a cap.

Evap is routed differently from the 950 Adv shown in the link Thumper provided.

Note the color of inside the tube, looks like burnt coolant. If you were dumping raw fuel onto your header you would notice right away.
My SM routes exactly where this line is and is capped and part of the EVAP system. SMR may be different

Thumper996 screwed with this post 02-26-2013 at 06:46 PM
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Old 02-26-2013, 06:50 PM   #8282
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nattyMo View Post
I confirmed in both the parts diag and service manual. Not close to my SMR to confirm in person but I'm sure now that on a 950SMR that is the coolant overflow tube. You are not missing a cap.

Evap is routed differently from the 950 Adv shown in the link Thumper provided.

Note the color of inside the tube, looks like burnt coolant. If you were dumping raw fuel onto your header you would notice right away.
Thanks, Natty! I'll pull the tank in 4-6 weeks when the Safari arrives.
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Old 02-27-2013, 11:50 AM   #8283
wcohl
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I'm looking to buy a 950SM in the near future and I spent the past ??? days reading this thread from the beginning. Very informative, and I took a lot of notes. Thank you for sharing the information that will allow me to make an infomred decision. I have a few questions.

What oil and tires do you recommend?

I do have a serious question about jetting. The most popular set-ups seem to be the Xbikes, Adventrue Machines, head2wind, and lastly Factory Pro. Did I read somewhere or imagine that the adventure machines jetting kit was originally the head2wind?

Once I make my purchase, I hope to contribute so others can benefit. I'm not a suspension expert, but I have a lot of experience revalving WP forks and understand the importance of proper spring rate for the PDS system that has been used since 1998.
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Old 02-27-2013, 01:24 PM   #8284
mousitsas
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wcohl View Post

I do have a serious question about jetting. The most popular set-ups seem to be the Xbikes, Adventrue Machines, head2wind, and lastly Factory Pro. Did I read somewhere or imagine that the adventure machines jetting kit was originally the head2wind?

Once I make my purchase, I hope to contribute so others can benefit. I'm not a suspension expert, but I have a lot of experience revalving WP forks and understand the importance of proper spring rate for the PDS system that has been used since 1998.
1) Indeed, The adventure machines company belongs to our very head2wind

2) in this case, I have a question for you!
In open cartridge forks, what is the effect of a slightly thinner oil, on the parameters we cannot adjust by the typical compression and rebound dampening screws?
An answer on this will greatly improve my understanding of the matter!
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Old 02-27-2013, 01:52 PM   #8285
wcohl
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Quote:
2) in this case, I have a question for you!
In open cartridge forks, what is the effect of a slightly thinner oil, on the parameters we cannot adjust by the typical compression and rebound dampening screws?
Lighter oil is lighter damping. It can help, but it usualy won't overcome really bad valving. For example, the forks used on 98/99 KTM's had compression damping in one leg and rebound in the other. It was common to run maybe a 3wt. on the compression side and traditional 5wt or maybe 7 1/2 wt. on the rebound side. The valving on there forks was pretty good from the factory. A popular DIY revalve kit only required you to replace two shims.

I read with great interest about the harshness form the fork HSC damping. Someone posted the valve stacks looked very similar to the stacks on a 250EXC. Although not perfect, the suspension on recent KTM dirt bikes wasn't too far off from the factory (excpet for 2003 +04 with their third bushing experiment). I would think the HSC requirements for a dirt bike would be more than that of a SM.

I'll have to wait until I get my own SM to see what works for sure. If I don't like the feel of my bike, I have two small changes in mind. A smaller clamp shimwith progressive back and removal of the next shim in the stack should definitely soften things up. Fortunately, changes to the base valve can be done without loss of fork oil.

For anyone not happy with their KTM suspension, the first thing to do is check the sag, especially the rear. The wrong spring rate in the rear will have you chasing your tail.
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Old 02-27-2013, 02:17 PM   #8286
mousitsas
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wcohl View Post
Lighter oil is lighter damping. It can help, but it usualy won't overcome really bad valving. For example, the forks used on 98/99 KTM's had compression damping in one leg and rebound in the other. It was common to run maybe a 3wt. on the compression side and traditional 5wt or maybe 7 1/2 wt. on the rebound side. The valving on there forks was pretty good from the factory. A popular DIY revalve kit only required you to replace two shims.

I read with great interest about the harshness form the fork HSC damping. Someone posted the valve stacks looked very similar to the stacks on a 250EXC. Although not perfect, the suspension on recent KTM dirt bikes wasn't too far off from the factory (excpet for 2003 +04 with their third bushing experiment). I would think the HSC requirements for a dirt bike would be more than that of a SM.

I'll have to wait until I get my own SM to see what works for sure. If I don't like the feel of my bike, I have two small changes in mind. A smaller clamp shimwith progressive back and removal of the next shim in the stack should definitely soften things up. Fortunately, changes to the base valve can be done without loss of fork oil.

For anyone not happy with their KTM suspension, the first thing to do is check the sag, especially the rear. The wrong spring rate in the rear will have you chasing your tail.
a few general suspension questions if I may take some more advantage of you!

1) high speed compression dampening and low speed compression dampening move together as you turn the compression dampening adjuster?
2) how does rebound dampening affect compression dampening?
3) how do you choose the right spring(s) for your weight? Is there a general rule, or is it type of bike specific?

many thanks!
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Old 02-27-2013, 02:41 PM   #8287
wcohl
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mousitsas,

I was just looking at the break down of the SM forks. The lower fork legs are different than what is used on the adventure models or the other KTM becasue of the radial brakes. This probably means a different style of base valve. If so I don't want to say much more until I know what I'm dealing with.

To answer your questions, I'm not the best on theory, but what changes have worked for me in the past;

1 I think it was stated previously in this thread, the compression adjuster meters the amount of by-pass from the base valve. The HSC and LSC damping is controlled by the shims. The LSC shims are the larger diameter shim, furthest away from the clamp or pivot shim. Ideally they work in unison where the larger shims deflect first. With a sharp hit, like on a pothole, more things effect the outcome like the amount of fluid that can flow thru the valve body. From what I've read earlier in this thread, it sounded like there was some hydraulic lock going on. This isn't solved by shim shuffling.

2 Rebound is usually independent of compression, but the mid valve, located on the rebound valve body, can effect compression.

3 springs are based on the weight of you and your bike. The owners manuals that came with my KTM dirt bike had a simple diagram showing how to measure sag. If the number was too little or too much, you changed springs. Especially in the rear. The valving on the PDS shock is progressive in different stages. The softer damping is in the initial stages. Too much rear sag puts the shock into the stiffer valving sooner and also effects the front end geometry. At least thats how it works on my dirt bikes. Adding more preload to a too soft spring doesn't work.
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Old 02-27-2013, 06:56 PM   #8288
Thumper996
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wcohl View Post
What oil and tires do you recommend?

I do have a serious question about jetting. The most popular set-ups seem to be the Xbikes, Adventrue Machines, head2wind, and lastly Factory Pro. Did I read somewhere or imagine that the adventure machines jetting kit was originally the head2wind?

Once I make my purchase, I hope to contribute so others can benefit. I'm not a suspension expert, but I have a lot of experience revalving WP forks and understand the importance of proper spring rate for the PDS system that has been used since 1998.
Answers depend on how you plan to use the bike. Myself it is all Sport riding like a sport bike, thus i have zero interest in tires, jetting, and suspension geared toward dual purpose or as an ADV machine even thou it's an SM. So my answers are based on sport / SM riding only.

AMSOIL - Synthetic of course

Tires - Performance sportbike tires PP / PP2CT's / Pilot Pure / ETC

Jetting - I am running a mixed Factory Pro / Head2Wind setup he sold me for sport type riding. Basically FP needles and other jetting he recommended and air box snorkel removed with no pre-filter either. BTW running FMF cans with no baffles and with no smog stuff.

30" inseam here and my stock suspension was oscillating in fast sweeping turns and had a tendency to push on turn exits, so i decided to bite the bullet and paid the $$ to send suspension front and rear to SPS for re-valving, lowering and shortened / stiffened fork springs. SPS also found the rebound circuit on both ends to be corroded (Bike has always been a street bike and never off road) causing the rebound circuits to not function as intended. It was $$$, but the best thing by far i have done the the bike. No more problems in fast sweepers and tracks like a dream thru turns.

I am a fairly aggressive rider and also was dragging the pegs so i raised them with a kit i sorta of assembled intended for another bike and dropped the dirt bike pegs for a sportbike peg.

Good luck with your SM
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Old 02-27-2013, 11:59 PM   #8289
mousitsas
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wcohl, thanks for your long and informative post.

On the jetting front (I ride an SE) this is my experience so far.

Bought the bike new, stock jetting was fine, but with a huge hole in the low rpm range
Installed H2W with prefilter, throttle response was magic, but only worked well with lower gearing than stock, as it didn't have enough acceleration to thrill otherwise..
Now I use a DNA filter, snorkel in place, larger mains and all else stock H2W. Bike rips and can pull +2 teeth on the front sprocket compared to the prefiltered setup.
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Old 02-28-2013, 08:50 AM   #8290
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mousitsas View Post
wcohl, thanks for your long and informative post.

On the jetting front (I ride an SE) this is my experience so far.

Bought the bike new, stock jetting was fine, but with a huge hole in the low rpm range
Installed H2W with prefilter, throttle response was magic, but only worked well with lower gearing than stock, as it didn't have enough acceleration to thrill otherwise..
Now I use a DNA filter, snorkel in place, larger mains and all else stock H2W. Bike rips and can pull +2 teeth on the front sprocket compared to the prefiltered setup.
Larger mains then stock or larger than H2W mains. Do you remember what size. Is your throttle response still magic? I Have the H2W on my bike and it did smooth things out nicely but as you said it seems to have hurt top end power. The H2W kit is not ment for a steet only bike. Still much better than stock tho.
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Old 02-28-2013, 09:08 AM   #8291
2ManyBikes2Little$
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950 Tail Bag

First off, Walter, you are in large part to blame for my new KTM fetish. Thanks

I just got a 2007 950sm and love every minute. Funny story, my wife just had a baby and after I had been at home with her and the new one for a few days, I looked at her and said "baby I am having a bummer moment, I haven't ridden my 950 in a few days and miss it." She immediately started crying and when I asked her why (with confusion on my face only a husband can understand) she replied that "it just made her really sad". I'll chock that one up to the hormones.....and a great wife.

I already posted this in the parts section, but seeing as this is THE place for 950s, I thought I would post it here also.

Anyway the bike came with a quick disconnect KTM tail bag. I already have a set of bags so this one is going up for sale. It looks like it was never/rarely used. I'm asking $140 with free shipping to the lower 48 states.


Tail Bag PN 60012078100 - Retail Price $169.99

Links to the bag online
http://www.ktm-parts.com/60012078100.html
http://www.ktmtwins.com/ktm-690-950-990-rear-tail-bag
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Old 02-28-2013, 10:47 AM   #8292
mousitsas
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Mains

Quote:
Originally Posted by Smilin' Dave View Post
Larger mains then stock or larger than H2W mains. Do you remember what size. Is your throttle response still magic? I Have the H2W on my bike and it did smooth things out nicely but as you said it seems to have hurt top end power. The H2W kit is not ment for a steet only bike. Still much better than stock tho.
With DNA and snorkel 160F/165R @ sea level, with H2W I had 148/152 mains. Running akras with large db killers in.
One day I will go to the dyno to make sure I'm not lean up top, but in all fairness the damn thing runs flawlessly.
And yes, throttle response is still magic, linear with this 'wet throaty grawl' of a well sorted carburation.
Engine pull compared to the pre-filtered setup (and the stock setup as well) is of a different level. Just Amazing.
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Old 03-02-2013, 08:04 PM   #8293
wcohl
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I'm finally an actiual member of the club. I just got home with a nice 2006 950SM. I'll try and get somepictures when the sun comes up.
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Old 03-03-2013, 12:00 PM   #8294
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Cheer and Cheer and Cheer!

Welcome to the club...
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Old 03-03-2013, 07:10 PM   #8295
corndog67
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I just put a set of Q2 Dunlops on my 950SM. Awesome feel, and turn in is fast, fast, fast, I almost threw it into the ground right after I scrubbed them in.
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