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Old 04-05-2013, 01:38 PM   #8431
ridemorestressless
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Joined: Jan 2012
Location: Florida
Oddometer: 48
nattymo, I see you posted your smr for sale, bumped. Do you have accessories or extras you are selling separately? PM me if so. Thanks.
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Old 04-05-2013, 01:55 PM   #8432
Just Bob
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Location: Rocky Mountains USA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ridemorestressless View Post
How long could you ride on the original before you got sore?

How long can you ride on the seat concepts before you get sore?

The stock seat would start killing my ass after a couple of hours. Full days were only possible with a double acetaminophen. Just put the Seat concepts on yesterday and did a short ride, so no results yet. However, I did put a Seat Concepts on my WR250R last spring and it is the most comfortable all-day seat I've ever had on any bike.
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Old 04-06-2013, 09:29 AM   #8433
doctor_big
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Joined: Oct 2007
Location: Toronto, Canada
Oddometer: 695
Ok, how do I tell if my water pump is fubared? The oil looks a little greenish, but I have red antifreeze in there(i forget the name)

No oil in the rad fluid, and the oil filter looks fine.

Thx
Jason.

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Old 04-06-2013, 10:04 AM   #8434
renogeorge
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Location: Reno
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Oil color can be grey, green, milky. On mine, oil pressure light started flickering on and off before the filter showed swelling.

FWIW
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Old 04-07-2013, 05:15 AM   #8435
nattyMo
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Joined: Jun 2007
Location: Baltimore Md
Oddometer: 582
Hey Doc,

Are you loosing coolant? Keep a close watch on its level, if the level drops much it is going someplace. My buddies Adv would loose close to the whole overflow tank in one ride before showing any signs of reduced oil pressure or oil in the coolant. You could also pull the clutch inspection cover and have a look but you will need to have a replacement o-ring/gasket on hand. If you see a brown/grey goo on the inside of the cover that is a sure sign you have coolant present.

What fails is the water pump seal and shaft, not the pump per say. You can't replace the seal and shaft without taking the pump apart and you'll most certainly damage the pump impeller blades when you remove it. Best to buy the whole rebuild kit if you do in fact have the symptoms of a failed seal.

Pyndon did a great write up in the HOW. The job isn't that difficult but takes time. The first one I did took most of the day. I would suggest if you do need to do the rebuild that you pick up the KTM seal driver, without it, buggering up the seal install is very easy to do. Something I learned the hard way.

Good luck!
NM

Quote:
Originally Posted by doctor_big View Post
Ok, how do I tell if my water pump is fubared? The oil looks a little greenish, but I have red antifreeze in there(i forget the name)

No oil in the rad fluid, and the oil filter looks fine.

Thx
Jason.

Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk 2
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Old 04-07-2013, 05:32 AM   #8436
nattyMo
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PM sent,

Short answer, yes.

I'm going to wait until the bike sells to list the other stuff. Spoke already picked up the Emig triples, damper, carbon bars and Bonz mounts.

If I have a change of heart I want to keep the rest of the goodies. If the bike sells I for sure won't need the stuff. Some things that may be up for grabs:

Carbon body work, custom painted (see previous posts for pics), both front fenders, Headlight mask, rear fender, tail section, CS cover, lamda covers, hand guards. I prefer to sell the carbon as a set. One inmate is interested in the unpainted bits. I will split the painted (mask, upper fender, hand guards) from the rest if any of you are interested in the painted bits as a sub-set.

Brembo RCS clutch and brake master cylinders wired and plumbed for the SM/SMR/Adv/SD along with a custom mount for the choke lever for the 950's.

Corbin seat

Two motorcycle covers

Work stands, front and rear.

46L top case and mount

Tankbag

I may have some other stuff as well, once I clean out my space.

If any of you guys are interested in this stuff send me a PM and I'll let you know once I'm ready to part with things.

Thanks
NM



Quote:
Originally Posted by ridemorestressless View Post
nattymo, I see you posted your smr for sale, bumped. Do you have accessories or extras you are selling separately? PM me if so. Thanks.
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Old 04-07-2013, 12:15 PM   #8437
mrdirtbikerider
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Joined: Sep 2007
Location: Okc. Ok
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Question Chain adjustment

My chain has been making a little noise when riding. It sounds loose. I checked the chain tension according to the owners manual and it measures .375 .
Manual says it should be .3 , it is Very close to spec. but the chain just looks loose. What concerns me is, when riding, it slaps around a bit and sounds loose.
I'm not sure if the manual is 100% spot on.

Has anybody else noticed this?
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Old 04-07-2013, 01:15 PM   #8438
Just Bob
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Location: Rocky Mountains USA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mrdirtbikerider View Post
My chain has been making a little noise when riding. It sounds loose. I checked the chain tension according to the owners manual and it measures .375 .
Manual says it should be .3 , it is Very close to spec. but the chain just looks loose. What concerns me is, when riding, it slaps around a bit and sounds loose.
I'm not sure if the manual is 100% spot on.

Has anybody else noticed this?

If you have some tight or rusty links it will do this. I'd say give it a nice kerosene bath and re-lube and see if that does the trick.
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Old 04-07-2013, 02:05 PM   #8439
mrdirtbikerider
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Location: Okc. Ok
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Chain

Ya, it prob is a little tight. I have never cleaned it. I just periodacly spray the chain with lube. It is caked up with lube pretty heavy.
Kerosene won't hurt the o rings in the chain?
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Old 04-07-2013, 02:23 PM   #8440
goodcat8
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Location: Los Angeles
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mrdirtbikerider View Post
Ya, it prob is a little tight. I have never cleaned it. I just periodacly spray the chain with lube. It is caked up with lube pretty heavy.
Kerosene won't hurt the o rings in the chain?


Reapplying chain lube is better than ignoring it, but without cleaning it, the gunk build up isnt great by any means either. Depending how long its been since cleaned you might want to drop the $150 on a new chain.
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Old 04-07-2013, 02:53 PM   #8441
doctor_big
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Joined: Oct 2007
Location: Toronto, Canada
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These things rock!
http://www.tiroxproducts.com
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Old 04-07-2013, 03:35 PM   #8442
mrdirtbikerider
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Location: Okc. Ok
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Quote:
Originally Posted by doctor_big View Post
These things rock!
http://www.tiroxproducts.com
That's very interesting stuff. How long have you been using it?
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Old 04-07-2013, 04:12 PM   #8443
MotoSteve
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Location: CA
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Good luck with the next bike, whatever it may be. Don't be a stranger.

Quote:
Originally Posted by nattyMo View Post
Yep, I put it up for sale... going to miss the chronicles, thanks to everyone for your help over the years.

See it here:
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=874858

NM
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Old 04-07-2013, 05:22 PM   #8444
doctor_big
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Joined: Oct 2007
Location: Toronto, Canada
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mrdirtbikerider View Post
That's very interesting stuff. How long have you been using it?
About three years now. The brush really works and the cleaner is kerosene based.

The lube goes on clear, doesn't fling off and stays reasonably clean..

Further, their Speed Wax is the best thing I've found for our tanks. Leaves a great low-lustre shine.

Jason

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Old 04-07-2013, 06:02 PM   #8445
wcohl
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GIVI Monokey on a 950 SM

Has anyine installed A Givi Monokey trunk on their 950 SM? My bike currently has this plate on the back;

http://www.ktmtwins.com/ktm-950-supe...opcase-bracket

I have access to a Givi mounting plate that is much larger than what I need. I plan to cut it down and drill new mounting holes, but I need a little help on where to make the new holes. What I don't know is how far forward or rearward the Givi posts are in relationship to the front mounting holes.
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