ADVrider

Go Back   ADVrider > Bikes > Road warriors
User Name
Password
Register Inmates Photos Site Rules Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
Old 06-22-2013, 07:39 AM   #8716
mrdirtbikerider
Husaberg rider
 
mrdirtbikerider's Avatar
 
Joined: Sep 2007
Location: Okc. Ok
Oddometer: 265
OAT pic

OAT pic of bike with Conti's TK80's
__________________
06 KTM 950 Sm
10 Husaberg FE 390
mrdirtbikerider is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-23-2013, 02:48 PM   #8717
dobbs
Adventurer
 
Joined: Nov 2008
Location: Oakland
Oddometer: 14
^Nice!

I am really interested in your setup. I've been thinking seriously about getting some TKC's and doing some off-road camping. I'm not dumb enough to try to ford mud bogs or rock climb with the bike, but I would like to ride gravel/dirt roads and occasional sand without feeling like the bike is on marbles.

So have you hit any deep sand (not dunes) and what do you think of the TKC's?
dobbs is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-23-2013, 08:16 PM   #8718
mrdirtbikerider
Husaberg rider
 
mrdirtbikerider's Avatar
 
Joined: Sep 2007
Location: Okc. Ok
Oddometer: 265
Tk80's. The back tire is pretty good. I've rode everything from deep sand, dirt, pea gravel, deep gravel, pavement. Even some heavy rock crawling. I did get two punktures in the rear tire. Even tho the rear tire performed well, I will not trust them again on long trips because they are a thin tire, prone to flats. The front was ok till used in gravel. Didn't want to turn, tried to wash out and pushed in all corners. Part of this is due to the 17" front tire size and wide width.
A 20" front wheel is a must! The 17" front is horrible in sand and deep gravel. The knobbies only help a small amount .
I'm currently looking for thicker ply tires and a 20" front set up.
I took the bike on one road about a mile long and to say it was rough is an under statement. It was All rocks, the size of pineapples. It was a true test of the bikes Offroad capabilities. It done very well. I was surprised that my rims didn't get bent because it was extremely rough.
As long as you don't ride in sand and med to heavy gravel the TK 80's are ok at best and they do wear Very fast. The rear has 1k miles on it and is at 50%.
__________________
06 KTM 950 Sm
10 Husaberg FE 390
mrdirtbikerider is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-24-2013, 09:23 PM   #8719
dobbs
Adventurer
 
Joined: Nov 2008
Location: Oakland
Oddometer: 14
Thanks for the report, i sorta figured that the performance would be about what you experienced. I'd be interested in a larger front wheel, but I wonder if it would clear the radiator at full compression. I guess it would just take a few tests.

I know there's someone on here that's running a 19" front. I wonder if that would be worth it?
dobbs is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-25-2013, 07:00 PM   #8720
mrdirtbikerider
Husaberg rider
 
mrdirtbikerider's Avatar
 
Joined: Sep 2007
Location: Okc. Ok
Oddometer: 265
I think it would definitely help, especially if its a little bit more narrow.
On my last long ride, the oil sight tube cracked and started to leak. Small oil leak. The crack was very small and hard to see. I just replaced it with a new one from Munn racing.
I also used the recommended Motorex oil in the bike for the first time. Been using Motul since new. Motorex might be good oil but makes the transmission feel like crap. Shifting feels totally diffrent. I think I'm going back to Motul.
__________________
06 KTM 950 Sm
10 Husaberg FE 390
mrdirtbikerider is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-25-2013, 10:35 PM   #8721
preppypyro
Studly Adventurer
 
preppypyro's Avatar
 
Joined: Oct 2009
Location: Canada's Best Kept Secret, Saskatchewan
Oddometer: 557
I ended up deleting the sight tube for my oil tank, and bought a dipstick from an adventure. i had a small leak and decided it wasnt worth having the hassle of having a weak spot.
preppypyro is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-02-2013, 10:59 AM   #8722
Zwoehr
Adventurer
 
Joined: Apr 2011
Location: Seattle
Oddometer: 47
My SM is for sale in the Flea Market

For anyone looking to buy my low mileage SM is for sale in the flea market.
Zwoehr is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-02-2013, 11:15 PM   #8723
preppypyro
Studly Adventurer
 
preppypyro's Avatar
 
Joined: Oct 2009
Location: Canada's Best Kept Secret, Saskatchewan
Oddometer: 557
Ok fellas, got a question about jetting.

I jetted my bike after i installed the sporting wood intake, and the bike runs deadly, lifts the tire in 3rd gear without me even really tryting.

I want to make sure its not running too rich or too lean, anyone have good advice on just how I would do that? When i work on sleds its easy to tell, pull the spark plugs and check em out. Since the plugs are a little more difficult to get at in these bikes, i figured maybe there might be a better way.
preppypyro is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-03-2013, 12:40 AM   #8724
mousitsas
Beastly Adventurer
 
mousitsas's Avatar
 
Joined: Oct 2008
Location: Athens, Greece
Oddometer: 2,667
Quote:
Originally Posted by preppypyro View Post
Ok fellas, got a question about jetting.

I jetted my bike after i installed the sporting wood intake, and the bike runs deadly, lifts the tire in 3rd gear without me even really tryting.

I want to make sure its not running too rich or too lean, anyone have good advice on just how I would do that? When i work on sleds its easy to tell, pull the spark plugs and check em out. Since the plugs are a little more difficult to get at in these bikes, i figured maybe there might be a better way.
Only better way, is to get it to a good dyno, however, I would definitely trust SW with his suggestions.
What exhausts are you running, float heights and main jets? Still collecting parts to jump to the ITG wagon with SW's plate.
mousitsas is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-03-2013, 07:25 AM   #8725
preppypyro
Studly Adventurer
 
preppypyro's Avatar
 
Joined: Oct 2009
Location: Canada's Best Kept Secret, Saskatchewan
Oddometer: 557
I ended up going with h2w jetting, and Kens suggestion was 45 pilot, 65 IAJ, #3 needle clip, 3mm floats, 180 and 185 mains. I think my floats are set at 3.5mm though, that was the closest I could get them so i left them there.

I have fmf cans, no emissions crap, and Sporting Woods intake.

The bike is mean, it pulls hard, seems to run really well. I may be getting a little surging, but I havent checked a few other things yet so i wont say for sure.
preppypyro is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-03-2013, 07:43 AM   #8726
900rider
Studly Adventurer
 
Joined: Mar 2009
Location: Meadville, PA
Oddometer: 641
Off the rest of the week for some two wheel fun

900rider is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-03-2013, 05:23 PM   #8727
DM47
Adventurer
 
Joined: Jul 2010
Oddometer: 52
Quote:
Originally Posted by mousitsas View Post
Only better way, is to get it to a good dyno, ....
This, with a good operator so you can see the air/fuel ratio, smoothness of HP/torque curves, etc.
DM47 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-03-2013, 06:43 PM   #8728
renogeorge
Beastly Adventurer
 
Joined: Apr 2007
Location: Reno
Oddometer: 1,157
I personally don't see the need for a dyno unless you are in a race situation. I would suggest doing a little reading on jetting and what to look for is a lean or rich condition.

In general terms, rich jetting will sound and feel "heavy". Giving more throttle may provide the additional air that is needed to get the mixture "right". Typical reaction would be "it cleaned out".

A lean condition would show a surging or the unwillingness to take the throttle--not a heavy, loaded up response but a stop/almost cut out when trying to give it throttle. Hold the throttle steady and the motor "catches up" and runs cleaner. Indexing the throttle is important. We all think we can tell when we are 1/4 open, 1/2 open, etc. We Can't!!

This all happens independently in 3 stages of the throttle being open--idle speed and just off idle, mid range and near to full open throttle. It is very possible to be lean in one stage and rich in another. The books will tell you to jet the top/full throttle/main jet area first.

For non race bikes I find that the idle, off idle transition to mid range and the mid range needle are where it's at. I start with the pilot jet. Not exciting but get a good smooth idle needle using the lean/rich in/out on the air screw method. Then go to the needle. With the hit involved coming off the pilot, it can be difficult to determine if you are rich or lean. Don't sweat it! Try 1 position richer on the needle--lower the clip and strive for a good strong pull. If that made it better go one more position/clip in the same direction. If it gets worse, go back to one position leaner than your starting point--lower the clip 1 position from the starting position. Find the best needle position and then test the main. Simple==wide open throttle. You are looking for RPMs to build smoothly and not crap out at the end. This is where you need to sense the "heavy" rich missing sound vs the lighter lean sound. Don't be alarmed if you aren't sure if it is rich or leaan. Try 1 size richer or leaner and gauge the response. Go richer or leaner based on whether it got better or worse. Adjust main jet size 'til it pulls cleanly all the way to the rev limiter.

Yes the main does have some effect on the low and mid range. Re check both and adjust as needed

It does take time--not as bad as it sounds. But it is worth it to get there and learn the process.

Good luck!
__________________
KTMs--300, 518, 990

renogeorge screwed with this post 07-03-2013 at 06:49 PM
renogeorge is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-04-2013, 08:45 AM   #8729
wiseblood
Hall Monitor
 
wiseblood's Avatar
 
Joined: Dec 2008
Location: New York City
Oddometer: 11,981
Happy 4th!



__________________
"Hard Work Often Pays Off After Time, but Laziness Always Pays Off Now."

Big Apple Tag-o-Rama Maps: Click Here!
wiseblood is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-06-2013, 02:41 PM   #8730
snowhawk jockey
Slack Jaw Gaper
 
snowhawk jockey's Avatar
 
Joined: Jul 2005
Location: The other Center of the Universe: Bend, Oregon
Oddometer: 1,093
Post Happy Fourth!

My SM motor got to puffing on one cylinder and I couldnt figure it out! First I though compression, but it would bump evenly, so then I thought spark, maybe one of the coils had been killed or the cdi or the voltage regulator...?? Nope, none of the above. Just a plain old fuel pump, pumping its last with a contact breaker fail. The thing is soo eroded on one side, that there is just a shell like rim of contact point left. Deciding between Mikuni vacuum fuel pump or piezo contact point upgrade. Thoughts?
snowhawk jockey is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Share

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

.
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On

Forum Jump


Times are GMT -7.   It's 01:59 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.5
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright ADVrider 2011-2014