Husqvarna TE-610 Owners Sign In Thread.

[DeBandi]

Originally Posted by Lav1200

All this talk of case savers has me also thinking of protecting the left side crankcase cover from the shifter punching through it. Anyone here fabricated an aluminum plate to protect the soft (magnesium I think) side cases?

+1 me too.

[xymotic]

Originally Posted by DeBandi

Thanks again xymotic for the tip on the case saver.

I discovered those right after my booboo

[KevinMTB]

Regarding the rear inner chain guide wearing out, I had the same problem. After the second one I took a good look and found out that the alignment is off which causes it to wear prematurely, one side of mine had worn through to the aluminum. I used a hammer to gently persuade the aluminum guide into the correct alignment. I think that should have been added with the things to check when you first get your bike (like fixing the clutch cable alignment).

[xymotic]

Originally Posted by KevinMTB

Regarding the rear inner chain guide wearing out, I had the same problem. After the second one I took a good look and found out that the alignment is off which causes it to wear prematurely, one side of mine had worn through to the aluminum. I used a hammer to gently persuade the aluminum guide into the correct alignment. I think that should have been added with the things to check when you first get your bike (like fixing the clutch cable alignment).

Thanks for that, it totally makes sense I'll have a closer look at it.

[Husky Varmit]

Originally Posted by Lav1200

The only downside of the hydraulic clutch is that failures tend to be a little tougher to fix on the trail. I have seen a few guys now stranded from hydraulic clutch problems (KTMs mostly). IMO, carrying a spare cable is not a big deal and easy/fast to swap over if needed. But it sure would be nice to have an easier pull for 2-finger clutching.

I agree with you 100%!! It would be darned near impossible to fix a busted hydraulic anything at trailside w/o replacement parts. But I rely on the hydraulic brakes a heck of a lot more than the clutch actuator. I can always find a way to get it into gear and shift w/o a clutch, but stopping w/o brakes isn't one of the things that I look forward to (in spite of having to do it a couple of times over the last few decades). I went with the hydraulic to get rid of the cable routing issue and the inconsistancy of the pull angle thru the original Husky lower bracket. For me it was easier to order the kit instead of fabbing a lower bracket and modding the clutch arm. And, almost all the parts are 'off the shelf' Magura.

You've also got complete agreement for a lighter pull, but the pull on the hydraulic is lighter than a brand new cable and lever that I had to put on the first day I had the bike. The bike got lazy while they were loading it on the truck and it got to it's new home with a VERY short clutch lever. There is one other small thing that I kinda hinted at, but in reading what I said was not very clear. The slave cylinder could use just a little more stroke. That is why I had to do the reshimming - I got lazy and didn't do as good a job as I should have during installation. That is also why the pull is a little heavier than I would like, in hydraulics it is always a trade-off between stroke length and pressure. If the stroke length on the slave cylinder was longer, the pull would be even heavier.

I've seen a couple of people quote $300 as the price. I can't talk for George, but the last time we talked about price, he was trying to hold it closer to $250 plus shipping.

Last nugget for the rumor mill. The remote fuel pump for the bigger tank is almost finished. A little more work to get it vibration isolated appears to be the last hurdle. I push him every time we talk to get me a production unit on the UPS truck. I really need it to show up as that is the last MAJOR mod i need to do to the 610. Well, til something else comes up.

[xymotic]

Yeah George has good stuff, every time I think I'm ok he comes up with a new invention to make me broke again.

Originally Posted by OldTexan

I agree with you 100%!! It would be darned near impossible to fix a busted hydraulic anything at trailside w/o replacement parts. But I rely on the hydraulic brakes a heck of a lot more than the clutch actuator. I can always find a way to get it into gear and shift w/o a clutch, but stopping w/o brakes isn't one of the things that I look forward to (in spite of having to do it a couple of times over the last few decades). I went with the hydraulic to get rid of the cable routing issue and the inconsistancy of the pull angle thru the original Husky lower bracket. For me it was easier to order the kit instead of fabbing a lower bracket and modding the clutch arm. And, almost all the parts are 'off the shelf' Magura.

You've also got complete agreement for a lighter pull, but the pull on the hydraulic is lighter than a brand new cable and lever that I had to put on the first day I had the bike. The bike got lazy while they were loading it on the truck and it got to it's new home with a VERY short clutch lever. There is one other small thing that I kinda hinted at, but in reading what I said was not very clear. The slave cylinder could use just a little more stroke. That is why I had to do the reshimming - I got lazy and didn't do as good a job as I should have during installation. That is also why the pull is a little heavier than I would like, in hydraulics it is always a trade-off between stroke length and pressure. If the stroke length on the slave cylinder was longer, the pull would be even heavier.

I've seen a couple of people quote $300 as the price. I can't talk for George, but the last time we talked about price, he was trying to hold it closer to $250 plus shipping.

Last nugget for the rumor mill. The remote fuel pump for the bigger tank is almost finished. A little more work to get it vibration isolated appears to be the last hurdle. I push him every time we talk to get me a production unit on the UPS truck. I really need it to show up as that is the last MAJOR mod i need to do to the 610. Well, til something else comes up.

[Husky Varmit]

Originally Posted by xymotic

Yeah George has good stuff, every time I think I'm ok he comes up with a new invention to make me broke again.

Yeah, right. I'm not sure I really want him to finish up the tank mod. I would like to keep the 610 under $10K. And that darned IMS tank ain't cheap!!!

[xymotic]

Originally Posted by OldTexan

Yeah, right. I'm not sure I really want him to finish up the tank mod. I would like to keep the 610 under $10K. And that darned IMS tank ain't cheap!!!

Amen! Plus I __just__ did his reinforcement mod to my pump, and the bastard is making a scotts underbar mount. I mean, when will the madness stop!!!

[Lav1200]

Originally Posted by OldTexan

I went with the hydraulic to get rid of the cable routing issue and the inconsistancy of the pull angle thru the original Husky lower bracket. For me it was easier to order the kit instead of fabbing a lower bracket and modding the clutch arm. And, almost all the parts are 'off the shelf' Magura.

Does anyone have pics of this hydraulic conversion installed on a 610? I'm interested to see what it looks like.

EDIT - guess I should have searched before asking... found OldTexan's writeup with pics on TT:
http://www.thumpertalk.com/forum/sho...d.php?t=860471

[rockchucker22]

For those with the X2 light does both lights come on at the same time? Or is low one light and high another???? Thanks for the help.

[Yossarian™]

I broke my speedo sensor wire in Baja. So, I ordered a replacement and was swapping the two when I realized I'd removed the broken unit without first looking on the wheel side of the caliper to see if it extended any. Figures.

So, anyone want to take a peek at their speedo sensor head, and see if it pokes through the caliper or sits flush with the caliper? I'm looking for a ballpark, like "extends 2 full threads" or some such. It's item 7 in the image below.

Thanks in advance.

[Oaxacuzano]

Originally Posted by LostRider

Learning things the hard way... the only way I know how.

I could not wait one day for the water pump gasket to arrive in the mail, so I used liquid gasket stuff to seal it up. I was happy there were no leaks, but a couple of days later I kept looking at the factory gasket sitting on the shelf in the garage. Since the bike was still apart I talked myself into putting the factory gasket on. I kept thinking how pissed I'd be if I did not and got a leak out in the woods with banjos playing far off in the distance and getting closer and closer as I'm pushing the bike. After that thought I immediately pulled the pump off! Apparently the clearance in the water pump is so close that by not putting the factory gasket on the fins made contact with the pump housing and busted them off. When I screw something up I don't do it half assed, even the nut and part of the cam shaft busted off!


So I guess my TE busted a nut. I still have not found the fins and will be taking the top apart unless some one has a better idea. So don't rush things and use the right part, or pay, pay, pay.

Could you please load pictures of the housing ?

I did the same think and I do not have any issue, hope


I rotate the engine by hand before to adjust the valve clearance and no noise or restriction was observed, by this reazon I think the impeller is not touching the housing.

Regards.

[edeslaur]

Case saver pics with plastic cover installed over it
http://www.cafehusky.com/forums/show...6&postcount=12

Sure seems like a lot of $$ for a piece of metal and 2 bolts, even if it is cheaper than a new case or welding up your old one.

I believe this PN, they have 2, is the clutch cable I bought to back up the factory one on my longer rides - like Baja!
http://www.motionpro.com/motorcycle/partno/10-0123/

For the rear chain guide, I have a BRP block. I'm usually against plastic ones, but I had several Baja racers recommend it, so we'll see how it does. My metal ones look pretty beat on the outsides when I'm done with 'em.
http://www.brpmoto.com/product_info....oducts_id=2068

[Olas]

Speaking of which... I have a BRP chain guide with only a couple of hundred miles on it. If anyone is interested in it, let me know. I'll let it go for $45 shipped. I think they're about $70 + shipping new. This was for the TE510 but was modified to fit the TE610. All it needed to work was filing down the spacer about 1mm on each side.

[Hoder]

Originally Posted by Lav1200

The only downside of the hydraulic clutch is that failures tend to be a little tougher to fix on the trail. I have seen a few guys now stranded from hydraulic clutch problems (KTMs mostly). IMO, carrying a spare cable is not a big deal and easy/fast to swap over if needed. But it sure would be nice to have an easier pull for 2-finger clutching.

+1
I have 2 finger levers and it would be nice if it were a bit easier but it's not that big of a deal. I think this angled arm is the cause of the resistance. The cable has to have dead-on aim to make it rotate smoothly, otherwise you're trying to rip it off the shaft as we've seen in a couple of broken arms. If that arm was straight I bet it would be a one finger pull.