ADVrider

Go Back   ADVrider > Bikes > Thumpers
User Name
Password
Register Inmates Photos Site Rules Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
Old 01-24-2010, 08:21 AM   #15241
Navin
Beastly Adventurer
 
Navin's Avatar
 
Joined: Sep 2009
Oddometer: 7,490
Alot of 610 owners were borderline or former KLR riders. Its hard to break the old habits & start buying/replacing parts before they fail & get cobbled together at least 3 times. I think the "rule" is that the 2nd time you HAVE to be towed home, you replace it. Well, maybe just one more short ride...
Navin is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-24-2010, 08:35 AM   #15242
Geek
oot & aboot
 
Geek's Avatar
 
Joined: Jun 2003
Location: 8000ft.
Oddometer: 30,619
I'll grab some pics of the roller setup here in a bit this morning.. first I have to run a sick cat to the vet.
Like Olas said.. but to clarify you end up moving the roller up and rearward 2 inches to the SUB-FRAME bolt; hence the need for a longer bolt (Alfredo mis-typed and said swingarm bolt).

Mountain: If one was in the habit of doing a lot of wheelies on the street one could easily snap a chain. DAMHIK.
Geek is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-24-2010, 10:31 AM   #15243
Geek
oot & aboot
 
Geek's Avatar
 
Joined: Jun 2003
Location: 8000ft.
Oddometer: 30,619
TE610 chain roller relocation.

I think we talked about this a year or two ago but here it is in case we didn't.
To give credit where due, I was over at Indy Unlimited's house and handed me the bolt and said "move this there so you don't break that off". I did and it works

Why: Land some sweet jumps and you'll snap your chain roller off By moving it to this new location (higher up) the chain will have enough room to move without snapping the bung off your frame.

Difficulty: So easy yer granny could do it.

Time: 2 minutes (assuming you have the bolt)

What's Required: one (longer) shouldered bolt and some washers. I don't remember the bolt's length (sorry) but it shouldn't be too hard to figure out...
You want a new subframe bolt that is longer by the "width of the roller" plus a little extra for washers.
Get a hardened/higher grade bolt as it is your sub frame's support!
You also want a SHOULDER'd bolt so the roller can spin on the shoulder.
A shouldered bolt looks something like this (mine looks just like the bottom left one):



Steps: (Duh )
Stand on the left side of your bike with a wrench in one hand a beer in the other.
Drink.
Remove the chain roller from its current location.
Drink.
Remove your sub-frame bolt.
Drink.
Put the chain roller on the outside of the sub-frame with the new longer bolt. Use washers to gap things correctly so that the roller rolls freely without touching/binding.
Finish beer and get another.

These photos should make it clear.

For those unfamiliar, the extra black bar coming off the outside of my roller is my dirtbagz frame rail.




Geek screwed with this post 01-24-2010 at 10:57 AM
Geek is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-24-2010, 12:18 PM   #15244
DeBandi
Exploring Alabama
 
DeBandi's Avatar
 
Joined: Dec 2006
Location: Blount Springs, AL
Oddometer: 3,100
Thanks Geek.
__________________
Explore / Dream / Discover

DeBandi


Visit ExploringAlabama.net

State Oval Decals Available
DeBandi is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-24-2010, 02:56 PM   #15245
BeeDub
Havagoowan
 
BeeDub's Avatar
 
Joined: Aug 2007
Oddometer: 2,022
Carb help quick please!

Okay guys, so I'm finally putting in a JD kit to richen up the carb for the pipe mod I did.

1) I have the top of the carb off, and pull the throttle to bring the slide up for accessibility, the throttle lever comes out of the slide and is now stuck in the up position. I can't see anything binding it up, but I can't get it to go down. Anyone ever deal with this? What do I need to do to free this puppy up?

2) One other thing, and this is much more minor than my current problem. Does anyone have a diagram of how I should route the vent hoses and which ones I can eliminate after smog removal? The guy I bought the bike from took it all off, but the vent hoses were a clusterf###, and I'm sure two or three can be eliminated, but I need to know which ones need to be on there and how they need to be oriented.

Thanks!

EDIT: I just found the vent info in the 610 thread index for question 2, but any info you can give me on question 1 still stands. I really don't want to keep this thing apart any longer.

Double EDIT: I just figured it out, even if I don't understand it. I had to push down on that spring in the lower part of the picture, with the blue line on it, and it released it. PHEW!

Pic for reference:

BeeDub screwed with this post 01-24-2010 at 04:05 PM
BeeDub is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-24-2010, 03:13 PM   #15246
Xcuvator
Justa Venturer
 
Xcuvator's Avatar
 
Joined: Jul 2007
Location: Skolls Or
Oddometer: 1,355
Quote:
Originally Posted by mountain eagle
Nope, not that I noticed. I'm making it so that it will work with a 16T front as I have been playing with adjusting gearing between 14 and 16 with a 50T on the rear.
I had a little time on my hands this rainy day, so I cut out a guard and borrowing your idea to tie it to the roller.
The way those two existing bolts are positioned, they are very vunerable to the forces of the chain and the roller bolt or subframe bolt (as you mentioned) is very much needed. I made the gaurd two piece to give a little flex, if needed.
There is 4MM clearance between the guard and chain, which is all there is for the bottom bolt.
Later if I want to do the "roller bolt mod" it would be simple to cut a longer connecting piece to subtitute this one.
__________________
___________________________________________

So much riding-so little time

Xcuvator screwed with this post 01-24-2010 at 03:23 PM
Xcuvator is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-24-2010, 04:00 PM   #15247
DeBandi
Exploring Alabama
 
DeBandi's Avatar
 
Joined: Dec 2006
Location: Blount Springs, AL
Oddometer: 3,100
Quote:
Originally Posted by Xcuvator
I had a little time on my hands this rainy day, so I cut out a guard and borrowing your idea to tie it to the roller.
The way those two existing bolts are positioned, they are very vunerable to the forces of the chain and the roller bolt or subframe bolt (as you mentioned) is very much needed. I made the gaurd two piece to give a little flex, if needed.
There is 4MM clearance between the guard and chain, which is all there is for the bottom bolt.
Later if I want to do the "roller bolt mod" it would be simple to cut a longer connecting piece to subtitute this one.

Nice work.


Are those original foot peg bolts?
__________________
Explore / Dream / Discover

DeBandi


Visit ExploringAlabama.net

State Oval Decals Available
DeBandi is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-24-2010, 06:08 PM   #15248
Countdown
Beastly Adventurer
 
Joined: Oct 2003
Location: Carson City/Ridgecrest
Oddometer: 5,269
Quote:
Originally Posted by Geek
TE610 chain roller relocation.

I think we talked about this a year or two ago but here it is in case we didn't.
To give credit where due, I was over at Indy Unlimited's house and handed me the bolt and said "move this there so you don't break that off". I did and it works
I just found mine gone. First question; what does it do?

The last thing you want is a roller that deflects the chain on the tension side, just asking for failure. If there is one it should not tough the chain with suspension bottomed out. That said, all it could possibly do good is to keep a slack chain from hitting something when bottomed out.
__________________
Jerry Counts
Countdown is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-25-2010, 02:29 AM   #15249
craigwillz
61000000
 
Joined: Jan 2009
Location: cairns,oz
Oddometer: 15
valves

folks, can you tell me where the best thread is for checking the valves?
craigwillz is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-25-2010, 06:47 AM   #15250
fritzcoinc
Enjoying my last V8
 
fritzcoinc's Avatar
 
Joined: Apr 2008
Location: Cypress, Tx
Oddometer: 6,565
Well kiss my ass!!!!

Quote:
Originally Posted by fritzcoinc
+1, I have been riding motorcycles for some 40 years now and have yet to break a chain or seperate a master link. Am I lucky? Don't think so just into preventive maintenace and I buy good quality parts. That being said, I always carry a spare master link.
Forget the above.

This past Saterday I was riding the still storm roughed up beach and got slightly tangled up in some electric fence wire that someone left behind. Not a bad mess, wire cutters quickly got it out of the rear wheel. Just lost my brake disc guard. What I did'nt even think to check was the master link. Off I go and set course for home. 102 miles later, most on I10 at 70 MPH, at home I was washing the bike and noticed that the clip was gone form the master link! I was lucky this time. I don't know how but the link plate did not even move. New clip from the spares lot and I banged out another 200 mile ride Sunday.

Someone a while ago, and it may have been in another thread, suggested safety wire to help keep the clip in place. I have tried this several times but the sliders soon knock the wire off. Anybody know how to safety wire the clip to stay?
__________________
Regards
Fritzcoinc
96 XR650L, 96 Guzzi Sport, 07 BMW K1200GT,
86 Husky 400 XCE, 00 Husky Te 610 e, 1999 Husky TC610 SM, 2000 Cagiva GC; Google: TX7
fritzcoinc is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-25-2010, 07:10 AM   #15251
buffallodan OP
Beastly Adventurer
 
buffallodan's Avatar
 
Joined: Nov 2004
Location: Frankfort Kentucky
Oddometer: 1,709
Quote:
Originally Posted by fritzcoinc
Forget the above.

This past Saterday I was riding the still storm roughed up beach and got slightly tangled up in some electric fence wire that someone left behind. Not a bad mess, wire cutters quickly got it out of the rear wheel. Just lost my brake disc guard. What I did'nt even think to check was the master link. Off I go and set course for home. 102 miles later, most on I10 at 70 MPH, at home I was washing the bike and noticed that the clip was gone form the master link! I was lucky this time. I don't know how but the link plate did not even move. New clip from the spares lot and I banged out another 200 mile ride Sunday.

Someone a while ago, and it may have been in another thread, suggested safety wire to help keep the clip in place. I have tried this several times but the sliders soon knock the wire off. Anybody know how to safety wire the clip to stay?
I recall someone suggesting using the Red rtv sealant. Thats what I have been doing and it seems to hold up well...
buffallodan is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-25-2010, 07:29 AM   #15252
Yossarian™
Deputy Cultural Attaché
 
Yossarian™'s Avatar
 
Joined: Jul 2007
Location: the 'Ha
Oddometer: 9,591
Quote:
Originally Posted by fritzcoinc
Anybody know how to safety wire the clip to stay?
The only method I've used is to use a figure 8 loop of safety wire around the posts, in place of the clip.
__________________
Successfully surviving motorcycling since 1976.
Yossarian™ is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-25-2010, 09:41 AM   #15253
Sniper X
De Oppresso Liber
 
Sniper X's Avatar
 
Joined: Jul 2006
Location: Central New Mexico, 7420ft above sea level
Oddometer: 33,309
I must be turning European, Now I have the Husky TE610, my BMW M535i, and just picked up a Range Rover Classic LWB 1994 yesterday.....Funny thing is I don't feel too much different.
__________________
" The people who cast the votes decide nothing. The people who count the votes decide everything."
Straight Out Da Trailah!
Sniper X is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-25-2010, 11:17 AM   #15254
xymotic
Beastly Adventurer
 
xymotic's Avatar
 
Joined: Jun 2008
Location: Federal Way, WA
Oddometer: 8,366
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sniper X
I must be turning European, Now I have the Husky TE610, my BMW M535i, and just picked up a Range Rover Classic LWB 1994 yesterday.....Funny thing is I don't feel too much different.
You have that stuff in New Mexico, trust me you're different.
__________________
Quote:
Originally Posted by Just_Sean
Oh for ***k's sake Aaron. Please link us to my fascist, racist or homophobic posts.
"Anyone who doesn't take truth seriously in small matters cannot be trusted in large ones either."
Albert Einstein


Baja trip to the tip
6:10 to Yuma
trials and tribulations in the Mojave
Baja Blitz Yard sale
View Current Location via Spot Tracker
xymotic is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-25-2010, 01:17 PM   #15255
Sniper X
De Oppresso Liber
 
Sniper X's Avatar
 
Joined: Jul 2006
Location: Central New Mexico, 7420ft above sea level
Oddometer: 33,309
Quote:
Originally Posted by xymotic
You have that stuff in New Mexico, trust me you're different.
Yes, and I hear you. I get looks like you wouldn't beleive in my 1985 M535i, I guess poeple think you are either rich or stupid for driving a old BMW! They look at me like Im a drug delaer in my Rangie....
__________________
" The people who cast the votes decide nothing. The people who count the votes decide everything."
Straight Out Da Trailah!
Sniper X is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Share

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

.
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On

Forum Jump


Times are GMT -7.   It's 09:08 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.5
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright ADVrider 2011-2014