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Old 08-26-2007, 01:57 PM   #1531
Watercat
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Location: Garlic Gulch, Duwamps Pacific NorWet
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Wink Lighting & wiring upgrade

Quote:
Originally Posted by buffallodan
Is the wiring Harness the same for the 00' as the 06'> because the 06' wire for the headlight is dangerously small. I would check for heat while running or better yet upgrade the wire if you are modifying the lights to more wattage. Just a cautionary note...On my Tecate the ballast would not fire so I had to install a larger wire...in the future I am going to install a fuse panel up front and use one large wire from the Battery to front to carry the load of all accessories, including lights.

Dan

I'm running into same issues, TE 610, 2006; In process of installing dedicated wiring (fused & relayed) to BD HID 8" Racelight.

Dan did you just use the stock wire from stock switch to switch the relay?

Let me know if you found a good mounting solution up in the frontal area for mounting a small fuse block up there . . . . .

I have the one from Touratech which is relatively small, but haven't come up with a creative/secure solution for mounting it.

Thanks again for all your work helping us Husky DS riders.
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Old 08-26-2007, 02:24 PM   #1532
noman
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'00 te-610e 100w H4

measured the existing headlight wiring at .075 - .079, converts to 14 gauge. i know, looks kinda weeny. 14 ga is good for 15a, is fused at 15.

oem headlight: 60w/12v = 5a
upgraded headlight: 100w/12v = 8.3a

have checked for overheating wires and lens w/my temp gun - no problems. i think about 5 or 6 80 mile jaunts since the upgrade, ambient temps up to 80. as promised in my original post, will report here any problems.

am still greatly impressed w/this engine. bike now has 3340K (2070mi), bought it w/2165K (1342mi) and strong as h*ll. smooth shifting, nice brakes, transitions very well on pavement too.

am planning on bottones re-springing F and R (am only 155lbs) and adding an inner spacer to reduce seat ht 1 1/2inches over the winter.
bobp
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Old 08-26-2007, 03:47 PM   #1533
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A picture of my Husky with the Buell headlight, I like the way it looks, will hopefully find out how much better it is at night in the next few days


Forgive me for not having a 610 LOL, but you guys might like to do the conversion.
P.S. click on pic for larger view
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Old 08-26-2007, 05:01 PM   #1534
Tuonoit
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1st Ride !!

Hi all,
I have been lurking for a while, reading and paying attention to all the great info on this thread. I was looking for a true dual sport that could get dirty when needed and put the miles on the road when needed. This thread truly painted the picture of a great dual sport: TE 610!
I could not resist anymore & picked up my new '07 a few weeks ago. I put 4 miles on it puttering around the neighborhood until I had time to get away. My pics attached are of my first ride. I left the house with 4 miles on it and returned with 47 miles on it and answered
part of my original quest: it can get dirty !!! This was my first real ride on a real "dirt" bike since the early '70's.
I have really been missing out on this part of the sport of motorcycling. But No More !!!!

I will only place 1 question on this post, that I have been confused about. It has been discussed a lot and I'm not sure if there was any resolution. What is the answer to installing a steering stabilizer ( any kind: top mount, sub-mount , integrated in triple clamp ala RTT's, etc ) with stock tank and without doing major modifications?

Look forward to spending even more time on this site.

Have Fun,
John

http://jcmckinnon.smugmug.com/gallery/3371629#188224493
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Old 08-26-2007, 05:52 PM   #1535
Ed@Ford
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Any fabrication required?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ruffus
A picture of my Husky with the Buell headlight, I like the way it looks, will hopefully find out how much better it is at night in the next few days

RUFFUS: Are the headlights the Y0421.1AD part # previously listed? Was there any fabrication required for mounting? I understand wiring and bulb connectors are required. Are both Buell bulbs dual filament...maybe H4? I really like that whole setup shown on the '07!!
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Old 08-26-2007, 06:26 PM   #1536
Ruffus
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They are H7 single filament bulbs, I made a mount out of diamond plate aluminum that holds the speedo computer & the headlight & another for the bottom for adjustment made out of the same, it was really quite easy, and no wire splicing, I just cut some of the plastic around the Buel plug & plugged my wires right in. Of course I got it bass ackwards, my highbeam is now my low beam I'll fix that tomorrow


it'll be a few days before I do any night riding to try them out, but just on my driveway it looks much brighter, I'll let you know after a proper test ride
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Old 08-26-2007, 06:49 PM   #1537
buffallodan OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by noman
measured the existing headlight wiring at .075 - .079, converts to 14 gauge. i know, looks kinda weeny. 14 ga is good for 15a, is fused at 15.

oem headlight: 60w/12v = 5a
upgraded headlight: 100w/12v = 8.3a

have checked for overheating wires and lens w/my temp gun - no problems. i think about 5 or 6 80 mile jaunts since the upgrade, ambient temps up to 80. as promised in my original post, will report here any problems.

am still greatly impressed w/this engine. bike now has 3340K (2070mi), bought it w/2165K (1342mi) and strong as h*ll. smooth shifting, nice brakes, transitions very well on pavement too.

am planning on bottones re-springing F and R (am only 155lbs) and adding an inner spacer to reduce seat ht 1 1/2inches over the winter.
bobp
IIRC the wire for the 06' is 18guage as the bulb is only 35W, I guess the designers did not plan on us upgrading ...not sure the correlative amperage but the Tecate draw, upon firing, was too much...thanks for the post and info on the 00'.

Dan
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Old 08-26-2007, 06:53 PM   #1538
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tuonoit

I will only place 1 question on this post, that I have been confused about. It has been discussed a lot and I'm not sure if there was any resolution. What is the answer to installing a steering stabilizer ( any kind: top mount, sub-mount , integrated in triple clamp ala RTT's, etc ) with stock tank and without doing major modifications?

Look forward to spending even more time on this site.

Have Fun,
John

http://jcmckinnon.smugmug.com/gallery/3371629#188224493
With a stock tank there is no option that I know of. Look in the Index for the Submount Damper thread...
p.s. welcome to the Group

Dan
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Old 08-26-2007, 06:57 PM   #1539
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Watercat
I'm running into same issues, TE 610, 2006; In process of installing dedicated wiring (fused & relayed) to BD HID 8" Racelight.

Dan did you just use the stock wire from stock switch to switch the relay?

Let me know if you found a good mounting solution up in the frontal area for mounting a small fuse block up there . . . . .

I have the one from Touratech which is relatively small, but haven't come up with a creative/secure solution for mounting it.

Thanks again for all your work helping us Husky DS riders."Thankyou Watercat "
Yes, I used the stock wire to switch the relay.
My bike had a black bracket mounted in the top triple. I am not sure what it was for, perhaps extra fuse holder?, but I plan on using the screw hole to mount my fuse block. Good luck,

Dan

buffallodan screwed with this post 08-26-2007 at 07:03 PM
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Old 08-26-2007, 08:19 PM   #1540
motometal
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those concerned about the wiring size...and sorry if this was already suggested and I missed it...but you could check voltage at the battery, then at the headlight. There will naturally be a bit of drop, but not much, any significant voltage drop means the wiring has too much resistance (which will go hand in hand with the wiring getting hot). I'm not sure on specific numbers, but 1 volt is too much, a tenth or two is probably ok. It is a really short run so there shouldn't be much drop.

I used to use this test on car stereo amps...if the wiring was too small sometimes there would only be say, 11V at the amp...
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Old 08-26-2007, 09:09 PM   #1541
Tuonoit
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Quote:
Originally Posted by buffallodan
With a stock tank there is no option that I know of. Look in the Index for the Submount Damper thread...
p.s. welcome to the Group

Dan
Maybe this has been asked before: Is the front part of the stock tank just in front of the slotted mounting opening,
hollow or solid, and if solid , how far to each side of slot
before opens to tank cavity? If solid, maybe could extend
slot completely forward with dremel to allow for tower pin?? If hollow, could same be done, then epoxy in something to seal tank back up??

Tks,
John
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Old 08-27-2007, 05:38 AM   #1542
buffallodan OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tuonoit
Maybe this has been asked before: Is the front part of the stock tank just in front of the slotted mounting opening,
hollow or solid, and if solid , how far to each side of slot
before opens to tank cavity? If solid, maybe could extend
slot completely forward with dremel to allow for tower pin?? If hollow, could same be done, then epoxy in something to seal tank back up??

Tks,
John
John,
I don't know if the stock tank is solid or not but the slot is not the issue. The front of the tank does not leave enough clearance for the Tower Pin to fit. What one would need to do "I think", is move the bracket on the subframe rearward to effectively pull the tank back. This could cause issues with the seat fitting so thorough measurements would need to be taken and then you might run into the possibility that the seat pan would need to be modified. This is all speculation of course...I had to dremel my IMS tank to get it to fit and I actually punctured the tank. I was able to Epoxy it but I don't completely trust it to hold in the long run. Epoxy does not stick to the material the IMS tank is made of and I am not sure what the stock tanks are made of...look at the pics I have posted to get an understanding of how your stock tank is mounted in relation to where my IMS is located to see the difference in the tank bolt in the slot.

Dan
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Old 08-27-2007, 10:36 AM   #1543
Fast1
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Found a test in TWO magazine of the 06 TE610... European publication

https://images.nxgn-ltd.com/document...ike%20Test.pdf
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Old 08-27-2007, 03:40 PM   #1544
Jakester
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fast55
Found a test in TWO magazine of the 06 TE610... European publication

https://images.nxgn-ltd.com/document...ike%20Test.pdf
Fast, Thanks for the link. I don't agree with the conclusion about "vibey motor", "stiff suspension" and "can't be your daily driver, takes oodles of attention".
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Old 08-27-2007, 03:47 PM   #1545
Jakester
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[quote=jambie]Hey Jakester,

Thanks for the info! I found the connector and removed all the charcoal canister crap, capping the vacuum port on the manifold. I didn't remove any of the clear-tube stuff yet, just sort of hesitant to go that far before I know how the bike really runs.

Welcome Jambie. As far as the clear tubes go, the one off the bottom of the carb is just the float bowl drain and can be tossed. The four upper carb vent tubes can be disconnected from the "manifold", shortened, and routed up high on the right side. I capped the end of each with a small piece of filter gauze, but you probably don't have to bother.
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